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Ask Winke
Bows

  • Pat from GA asks:
    Hey Bill, I'm familiar with tuning Cam & 1/2/Hybrid Cam bows, but I'm trying to help a friend of mine tune his Bowtech, which is of course a Binary Cam system. He tried to tell me that Binary Cam bows self adjust for timing because the cams are slaved together and I told him that was not the case. I put his bow on my draw board and showed him that the stops were not touching at the same time. My question is: Which cable do you twist to adjust the cam timing? For instance, his cable stop on the bottom cam touches before the one on the top cam. As always, love the website, the information and can't wait for the 2012 MW Whitetail season to start!
    Winke Responds:
    Pat, you are correct. The binary greatly reduces the affects of harness stretch but doesn't eliminate timing issues altogether in a similar way that the hybrids do the same thing. You need to shorten the HARNESS attached to the cam that gets to full draw first. So in your case, the bottom cam is getting to full draw first so you have to shorten that cable (on the bottom cam) very slightly. Good luck. (4-15-12)
  • Jake from AL asks:
    Bill, just wanted to say thanks for all the advice on bow selection over the years. Quick question... has speed become paramount over smoothness and shootability nowadays? I have tested many top flagship models this year from the "big name" manufacturers, and while these bows looked good, most had harsh draw cycles. While I fully intended on getting the coolest looking, fastest thing out there... I selected the model which fit me best, a Hoyt Vector Turbo with the RKT cam. Your advice to shoot as many models as possible and buy what fits best instead of what looks the coolest is something we all need to learn.
    Winke Responds:
    Jake, My pleasure. No, I don't think so. For sure speed is a big selling point, but manufacturers know that at least one bow in the line has to combine good speed with a moderate brace height and a smoother draw. I still say, at the end of the day, the one that feels the best in your hand is the one that you are going to like the best over time. Good advice. Have a great day. (4-14-12)
  • Don from AL asks:
    what determines the draw weight range on a bow? the cams or the limbs? i am looking at a crx32 and the draw weight is 50 to 60. right now i shot at 65. i dont see myself going any higher because of bad shoulders and i am getting older, 49 this year. love you web site and insight on all the topics.
    Winke Responds:
    Don, The thickness of the limbs determines the draw weight range of a certain bow. You can replace the limbs with heavier (thicker) ones to get the 65 pounds, but that will be costly. Better to get the bow that actually fits your needs. If you think you will be dropping draw weight soon, maybe the 50 to 60 is just fine. It will likely make about 62 or 63 when the limbs are cranked all the way down. Good luck. (4-10-12)
  • Emery from BC asks:
    hey Mr. winke what do you think of the new APA bows? do you think they are a good buy for your money?
    Winke Responds:
    Emery, I think they have always made pretty good bows - at least the ones I have tested. I wouldn't be worried about the quality of their bows. Price is always an issue, but if the price is well below the cost of other bows you are considering, it might be worth giving them a try. They are a Canadian company, I think. My biggest question would be regarding warranty and repair. Do you know you can get the bow fixed if it has problems? Good luck. (4-10-12)
  • Bill from FL asks:
    Bill, I recently wrote to Peterson's Bowhunting Magazine about something you wrote in there. Then, I found this site, and decided to go directly to the source. Here is what I wrote them. What say ye? "I have been bowhunting for many years, and feel that I am knowledgeable about bow set up, tuning, kinetic energy, etc. I’m no “expert”, but I certainly feel I’m well versed in many technical aspects of our sport, and how to maximize my bow performance. Additionally, I enjoy reading Bill Winke’s articles, and consistently find them informative and helpful. In short, I really think he knows his stuff. As a result, he shook my confidence when he wrote on page 44 of your April/May 2012 issue in his article 7 Under $600 “I have always felt it is realistic for a modern compound to produce arrow speeds in the 280 fps or higher range at most draw weight when matched with the right arrow.” I have never gotten that speed out of my bow. I used to shoot a Mathews Legacy. Recently I pu
    Winke Responds:
    Bill, Your qestion got cut off, but I think I got the gist of it here. They forwarded that to me to comment on it, so it will end up in the magazine too. I don't believe every bow at every draw weight can produce 280 fps, but today's faster bows at most of the popular hunting weights will hit or come very close to that number when matched with a light to mid-weight arrow. I think Christian Berg commented that he achieved this result easily with his bows. When you look at bows with a 320+ IBO speed, dropping the draw length and draw weight a bit will still produce a very fast arrow. You aren't going to get there with a super smooth, mid-performance bow and mid-weight arrows, but you can get there with slightly lighter arrows and a fast bow. Most of the guys I know are gettting arrow speeds in the 280 range or above now. I guess I have to stick with my original statement. Thanks for the support. (4-6-12)
  • Adam from MN asks:
    What is the difference between the Maxxis, CRX, and Vector? I've been looking at getting the Maxxis or CRX on closeout or used but am wondering if spending a little extra money on the Vector would be worth it. By the way, is your bracket busted yet? Haha. Thanks!
    Winke Responds:
    Adam, I didn't fill one out, but I definitely would have had the number 2 seeds moving on so yah, it would be busted. I like all of those bows, seriously. I have hunted with the CRX and Maxxis and love them. I have not used the Vector, but the same cam is on the new Matrix and I have shot that. Go with the best deal. The Vector has a bit nicer cam than the other two. That is what makes it worth considering. Shoot them all if you can. Good luck. (3-16-12)
  • tim raredon from MI asks:
    hey bill, i am purchasing a vector 35 long draw, or a carbon matrix long draw. MY draw length is 32". I like to be a good steward with my money. What value am i getting from the carbon bow other than it looks cooler and i can drive over it with my truck. i have the money and I actually would like to buy the matrix but it seems i am not getting the value for the money. is there value that i am not thinking of? and is it worth the extra cost for the consumer? thanks bill..love watching the website
    Winke Responds:
    Tim, I think it is the coolness factor, lighter weight, a big less vibration through the shot, and the durability you note (but really how often are you going to drive over it?). that is pretty much it. I would say that if possible shoot them side-by-side and you will know right away of the carbon bow is worth the extra. I like both the aluminun and the carbon. I hunt with both. I don't feel like I am giving much up when I grab the aluminum riser bow. Good luck. (3-12-12)
  • Brian from PA asks:
    Hey Bill, been a viewer since you started MidWest Whitetail! Had a question regarding bows. I have been a long time shooter of Bowtech, I know you shoot Hoyt. Been doing a lot of research and the new Anarchy and Carnage made by Bear look great and seem pretty high on the levels of top bows. Wanted to know what your thoughts were, or if you know anyone who shoots them, good or bad reviews in the field?
    Winke Responds:
    Brian, I have not hunted with them but I have shot them. I have shot nearly every bow on the market (they are all at the ATA Show in the demo lanes). Bear has been consistently producing great bows for the past several years (ever since the Truth series). Of course, I love my Hoyt bows, but Bear are also good bows. They will perform well for you. Have a great day and thanks for the years of support. (3-4-12)
  • Mike from KY asks:
    I tested some hoyt bows and was wondering do you like carbon or alluminum riser?
    Winke Responds:
    Mike, I like them both. The carbon feels a bit better in my hand because it doesn't transmit vibration (plus it looks cool), but both are excellent. Comes down to personal taste and budget really. (3-4-12)
  • Brandon from IA asks:
    I recently purchased a new Hoyt Rampage XT and was torn between buying the 60-70lb or the 50-60lb. I ended up buying the 60-70lb. My question stems from something I had heard that your bow shoots its best at its peak draw weight. Is there anything that backs that theory up? Will the bow shoot any better or any worse if you have it setup at 60lbs compared to 70lbs? As always thanks for answering all these questions you get. You have a great show and look forward to next year. Also looking forward to seeing you Saturday at the Iowa Deer Classic.
    Winke Responds:
    Brandon, That is correct. Bows are designed to perform best when shot with the limbs at or close to their bottomed position. That reduces the brace height to its best performing level and puts the ideal amount of prestress on the limbs. That means that if you want to shoot 60 pounds, you are better off getting a bow that maxes at 60 rather than turning down a bow that maxes at 70. Good luck. See at the deer classic. (2-23-12)
  • jesse from VA asks:
    just wondering if you could help me a little. been looking at buying a used crx32 or maxxis. what is the difference between the #2 cam and the #3 cam. is it the draw length? thanks, jesse
    Winke Responds:
    Jesse, It must be. Hoyt has numbered cams - different sizes. With a certain cam and a certain module the bow will make a specified draw length. The modules have letters. My bows have the #3 cam on them, so I am guessing that is longer draw length. #2 then, is most likely to create a shorter draw length. You would need to confirm by calling a Hoyt dealer or Hoyt's customer service (go to hoyt.com for the number), but I believe that is the case. Good luck. (2-16-12)
  • James from MN asks:
    Hi Bill, would you mind telling me what a comparable standard IBO speed would be for a bow that is listed at 325 at 60lbs and 29"? So in other words, what would that equate to in regular IBO ratings? Thanks.
    Winke Responds:
    James, That sounds a bit fast to me. You also need to know what arrow weight the bow was shooting to get those numbers. I would say a comparable IBO, based on just those numbers (which I would question) would be around 345 fps roughly. See I said it seemed a bit fast. Good luck. (2-10-12)
  • brett from OK asks:
    i have a 75th anniversity trykon hoyt and i was wondering about how many feet per second they normally shoot with 70-75lbs and 80% let-off
    Winke Responds:
    Brett, I think the IBO was about 315 fps on that bow. That means with a hunting weight arrow at a normal 29 inch draw weight, it would likely produce a speed of about 280 fps, roughly. That will vary a lot depending on your draw length and arrow weight, but 280 fps is a realistic goal with that bow. Good luck. (2-10-12)
  • Cody from ON asks:
    I am looking at a brand new carbon element and a brand new vector turbo with the new cams what do you recommend?
    Winke Responds:
    Cody, I think the Element feels a bit better during the shot because the carbon doesn't transmit vibration as readily as metal (aluminum), but other than that, you won't notice a big difference. You definitely get some coolness factor going for you with the carbon bow. They are definitely cool. People buy fancy rims and chrome for their cars all the time. Sometimes it is fun jus to own something cool. In this case, the carbon is cool and it also has a tangible benefit: it feels better to shoot. Now let's look at speed: the Turbo is definitely faster. That makes it better in some situations. If you practice regularly and have good shooting form, you can benefit from the speed of a low brace height bow without giving up any accuracy. If you aren't an accomplished archer, I would stick with the higher brace height bow (Element). Good luck. (2-8-12)
  • michael from IL asks:
    Bill,love the show, got a question for you. I'm buying a vector 35 with a brace of 6 3/4 or vector turbo with a brace of 5 7/8 for 30 in draw acording to the tune charts. love the way the turbo holds and shoots but not sure in a hunting situation how I will like that brace, I currently shoot an alphamax, your comments? also I've shot a lot of deer over the last few years and whats worked very well for me, I use a single pin slider sight, set on 25yds, I hold dead on center of the deer out to 33yds, drop is just about right for them dropping at sound of the bow around here.
    Winke Responds:
    Michael, Good advice on the pin setting. I like that. I think you will notice the difference in the brace height more if you are a casual shooter. If you practice a lot, the extra couple of milliseconds (that's all) that the arrow is on the string won't matter much because your form should be good enough that you aren't moving the bow anyway. That is the thought anyway. In normal hunting situations, I doubt you will notice an accuracy difference but the extra speed might really come in handy. Good luck. (2-3-12)
  • Dustin from IL asks:
    Hey bill I have a younger sister who is starting to develop a strong interest in hunting. She has been gun hunting with me now for 4 years and harvested her first good buck this year which I was really proud of her for. I am looking into getting her a bow, so she can start bow hunting with me. I want to get her a youth bow like hoyt's ruckus as she is a medium framed girl height wise (about 5'8") and i don't think a full sized bow with heavier poundage limbs would be the right option for her. Is the youth bow the right route or should i look into something different. I know your son has shot a deer with a bow before on one of the episodes and was he shooting the ruckus, if not, does hoyt make any other youth/women model bows. Also what type of arrows would you suggest i buy, what grain size tips and other options etc. for a youth bow setup. Just wanted to get pointed in the right direction and have her set up with the right equipment. Thanks bill. ps. your show is awesome and i am
    Winke Responds:
    Dustin, Drew was a lot smaller than that when he shot that deer back in 2009. He is going to try it again this year so we will gear back up for him. He killed that deer with a Trykon Jr. I think. It was a youth bow, but he was definitely a youth. In your case I would be looking more at adult bows. The Ruckus would definitely work, but my fear is that if she really enjoys it she will want a full featured, faster bow and you will be upgrading the youth bow to a full adult bow very quickly. Hoyt had a bow called the Vicxen, but I don't see it anymore, so basically, any of the adult bows should work fine for her. I notice that the Rampage XT goes down to 24.5 inches draw and 30 pounds (my guess is that she will be shooting a longer draw and eventually more draw weight), so I think you should be able to find one of those that fits her. That is a good bow. Possibly you can find a good used Vicxen on E-bay too. It is definitely worth a try. I do really like the Rampage XT. It is a lot of bow for the price. Basically has all the features of the CRX but with a molded instead of machined riser. Good luck. (2-2-12)
  • bill from PA asks:
    Hi Bill, during the season I keep my bow in a garage that is not heated. Should I store it in a heated area or is it OK to keep it in a cold setting? Also, I am going to be out of action for a few months due to a health issue. Should I back the weight down on my bow while it sits? Thanks
    Winke Responds:
    Bill, Should be OK in the unheated garage. I don't think you need to back the weight down, but to be on the safe side you could. I never have in the all the years I have bowhunted. Good luck with the health. (1-28-12)
  • Dusty from MN asks:
    I have a 2011 Carbon Element, I was wondering if I can upgrade to a RKT Cams?
    Winke Responds:
    Dusty, My guess is that you can, but it may be expensive to do because you may need new limbs (to make your draw weight) and new strings and harnesses too. You can check with a Hoyt dealer to see how much it costs. Good luck. (1-17-12)
  • James from FL asks:
    Bill, just about done with your bow book. I have a quick question in regards to the weight of the bow. I know you are shooting the new carbon bow, but what are your thoughts on the weight of it. In the book you wrote about liking a heavier bow. I really like the weight of the carbon bow. Planning on buy a hoyt this year and using some of your other sponsors as well. Really impressed with the products. Congrats on a great season!
    Winke Responds:
    James, Thanks for supporting our sponsors. By the time you get all the accessories on it, the carbon bow is not a lot lighter than a comparable aluminum one - a half pound maybe depending on what accessories you select. So that is not a huge issue. I hunted with the CRX 35 most of the season. There is a tradeoff for sure. People like a light bow, but for pure accuracy the heavier one has to be better simply because it is harder to move heavy objects quickly. We are splitting hairs to some extent, but if you are looking at target bows, those guys aren't trying to shoot something light. They are trying to shoot something stable. For hunting, where timing may be much more important than pure long-range hair-splitting accuracy, the weight of the bow is not quite as big of a deal. That said, I still have no problem with heavy bows. I have never selected a bow to hunt with just because it was light. Again, for hunting purposes a half pound difference is really splitting hairs. I think the length may actually be just as important as the weight - but then we get into another argument where we end up splitting hairs. If you don't shoot long distances, you will do fine with a short, light bow. If your shooting is very demanding, the added stability of a longer, heavier bow would be valuable. Hope that didn't just make things more confusing. Good luck. (1-29-12)
  • Martin from NY asks:
    Bill You've shot a lot of different bows. Can you tell me why you chose Hoyt over all the other brands? I'm thinking about purchasing a new bow this year and I'd like your opinion. Thanks.
    Winke Responds:
    Martin, I started shooting Hoyt quite a bit back in the mid 90s - about 15 years ago. I started because I liked the people there and they made some good bows that fit my 32 inch draw length. For a while they were the only company making good long draw bows. Now there are others. Over time I just grew to really appreciate the legacy, people and bows at Hoyt. There president is a former product engineer at Hoyt - that should tell you about their focus on building it right. I still have many good friends there (I have friends at other companies too), but the bows have really gotten better over the past five years (starting with the AlphaMax). There are other good bows on the market, but I just like the way the Hoyts feel during the shot - they are always well-made and accurate. My advice is to shoot the bows you think are most interesting - side-by-side if possible - and then pick the one that feels the best to you. Also, the way the bow looks plays a role since you have to think it looks cool in order to really love it. Good luck. (1-21-12)
  • Matt from TN asks:
    I'm trying to decide between the new Element or the Matrix with the RKT cams. I notice you shoot the Matrix. Besides the axle to axle length difference, is there any other big differences in performance of the two bows? Why did you chose the Matrix over the Element?
    Winke Responds:
    Matt, I believe the Element is a bit faster. I need the Matrix to get the draw length out of it. If you don't have a long draw, I think I would probably go with the Element. Good luck. (1-20-12)
  • Rusty from GA asks:
    I've never owned a top of the line bow in my life. I've been bowhunting 15 yrs. and was wondering how to get a good used Hoyt and which one you would prefer? I shoot a 465gr. arrow and broadhead and would like more speed than the 235fps I shoot now.
    Winke Responds:
    Rusty, I would likely get an AlphaMax or Maxxis and look at Craigs List and then e-bay. If you have never bought off e-bay, please get some help from an experienced buyer. There are definitely things to look out for, but overall you can expect honest transactions. The AlphaMax and Maxxis are no longer in the line but are very good bows. I think you will love either one of them. Plan B is to look at a new Rampage XT. That is a great bow a good price. Good luck. (1-18-19)
  • Steve from IA asks:
    Is it possible that the deer are jumping the string because it's your bow? Don't get me wrong I shoot Hoyt and I love it. But maybe there just to loud. Maybe Mathews or pse just make less noise.
    Winke Responds:
    Steve, I doubt it. I have shot a lot of bows and that one is not really all that loud. It sound loud in the blind because the noise echoes in there. In reality, when you shoot it outside, it is not very loud. He was just a jumpy deer, I guess. Good luck. (1-17-12)
  • Jerod from TX asks:
    What is the mathematical/technical explanation as to why the letoff of a bow increases as you get the buss cable closer to the axle??
    Winke Responds:
    Jerod, It is just leverage. It is like a teeter totter. By moving a the lighter kid farther from the pivot and the heavier kid closer you can still balance them. By moving the harnesses in close to the axle, you give the string the advantage so it doesn't take as much force to hold it back because the heavy kid (the harnesses) are closer to the pivot point. Does that make sense? There are some physics formulas that apply: sum of the torques acting around the axle must equal zero when the cam is being drawn or at full draw and then acceleration forces of the arrow balance the same torques when you release the string. I forgot much of what I learned in college nearly 30 years ago, but the basic concept is what I am trying to explain. A cam is just a series of levers that change as you draw the bow and that is what creates the force draw curve, determines how much energy the bow stores and how much the draw force lets off. Good luck. (1-14-12)
  • Alex from MN asks:
    Thinking im finally going to make a change from my 2005 PSE Pro Series Venom to a Hoyt. Even though my bow is outdated I cant put it down. I have been doing some research on the new Hoyts. Getting a lot of information in regards to the "fuel" cams vs the new "rtk" cams. My question is a two-parter...what are advantages of the 2012 Hoyt Vector 32 vs the Hoyt Cxr 32? (other than the cam)...and would it be smart/cost efficient to just buy a 2011 Hoyt Cxr 32 and upgrade to new cams? Thanks, Alex
    Winke Responds:
    Alex, I don't think you can upgrade the cams normally. I think you may end up needing all new string and harnesses and maybe even limbs too. I would not do that. Buy the bow with the cams you like. The CRX is a great bow. It is not quite as smooth as the new Vector because of the RKT cam. However, if you are pulling into the back of valley at full draw while aiming, you likely won't notice much difference. If you creep a bit, you will notice it. If you can get the 2011 CRX for a good savings, that is a great bow. I shot the CRX 35 most of last season and loved it. Just know it is not going to be quite as smooth as the Vector with the RKT. Otherwise, they are more or less comparable. Good luck. (1-13-12)
  • benji from TN asks:
    what about the hoyt rampage xt would you like better than the mission venture?
    Winke Responds:
    Benji, I have not shot the Mission, but I do think for the price the Rampage XT is one of the best bows on the market. I would shoot them both side-by-side if possible to see which one feels better in your hand. Good luck. (1-8-12)
  • Cody from MN asks:
    I like how your a straight shooter on the show and through the questions, so I'll ask you this. I've shot Mathews for 4 years and its never done me wrong. We are doing food plots and may start seeing some good results, leading me to think I may try taping and trying for MidwestWhitetail eventually. The sponsor is Hoyt and if I don't shoot that I can't be on the show. I am looking at upgrading bows this year. With this predicament what would you suggest?
    Winke Responds:
    Cody, Mathews makes good bows, but we have no flex in this. Hoyt sponsors Midwest Whitetail - our pro staff has to shoot Hoyt. Let that guide you. I have shot Hoyt for a long time, but the pro staff who have switched over from other brands are not complaining about their new Hoyt bows. So I think you will like them too. Good luck. (1-3-12)
  • Steve from TN asks:
    Your website is the best I have seen. Thank you for all the hard work and entertainment you provide on your site. I have been shooting a PSE F4 Maxis for about 14 years. It is time to upgrade. Which Hoyt would you recommend for a first time Hoyt buyer. Merry Christmas!
    Winke Responds:
    Steve, I like the Vector the Rampage XT or for sure the Carbon bows. If you are looking for the best value bow in their line, it is very hard to beat the Rampage XT. It is a very good bow. The Vector is a great bow with the new cam and carbon bows are very cool and feel great in the hand when shooting (no vibration). You can't go wrong with any of them. Good luck. (12-31-11)
  • Rob from MI asks:
    Hi Bill, I’m getting a new Hoyt bow this spring and I think I will go with the Carbon Matrix but I’m not sure if I should get the Long draw or not. My draw length (determined by arm span finger-tip to finger-tip of 77.25”/2.5) is 30.9”. I also won’t be using a string loop. Do you think the long draw is right for me? Love the show and Merry Christmas to you and your family and everyone at Midwest Whitetail!!
    Winke Responds:
    Rob, If the standard one makes 31 inches I would go with that one. I would only go with the LD if you need it. The LD will be a bit slower because it has a higher brace height. I am sure you will love that bow. Merry Christmas. (12-22-11)
  • Shane from AR asks:
    Hey Bill I love the show and the web site. It has become a part of my Monday morning routine. I currently have a CRX 32 and I have decided to upgrade to the new element. My draw length is 27" , 60#. Do you think I will notice the shorter brace height on the element versus the CRX. Thanks
    Winke Responds:
    Shane, You won't feel it much. I can usually feel a shorter brace height when I am shooting right after I switch from one bow to another but soon I get used to the feel of the new bow and then I don't notice it any more. The String Stopper will keep the string off your wrist, if you were worried about that. The bow will be faster. Other than that all you will notice is how sweet the Element feels when you shoot it. Good luck. Merry Christmas. (12-16-11)
  • jason from PA asks:
    Bill, I have a 32 inch draw and usually shoot 70 pounds. I have a couple questions. I can easily pull 80 pounds would you recommend me doing this? What are the benefits? Also what bow do you prefer in the hoyt lineup including the new 2012 bows? I am not sure if I want the new vector 35 long draw or the new carbon matrix ld. What are you going to be shooting? I would love to hear your opinion before making a decision. I believe your show is the best most informative show I have ever watched. Its not just about killing a deer like the other shows. Keep up the great work!!!!!! JASON
    Winke Responds:
    Jason, I believe in shooting as much as you can handle accurately and comfortably, so yes, if you can handle it easily then why not. I am shooting either the 2011 CRX 35 or the Carbon Matrix. The CRX is a good bow, the Fuel Cam is more aggressive than the new RKT Cam but as long as you keep the string into the back wall when aiming it is fine. (front of the valley is pretty steep - hits full draw weight fast when you let it down). Either bow is a winner in my mind. I was a bit slow to embrace the carbon (I am always a bit of a late adopter when it comes to bow technology), but I really like that bow now. Good luck. (11-30-11)
  • Pat from LA asks:
    What is the minimum temp.that I can use the Hoyt AlphaMax 32?
    Winke Responds:
    Pat, It is going to be really low. It has a laminated limb so that will dictate the temperature, but I a guessing it will be way, way below zero. I would call the customer service department at Hoyt. I know my friend Chase Fulcher recently used one on a polar bear hunt in the arctic and it can get wicked cold there. I am pretty sure it will handle anything you can dish out, but if you need specifics, you will need to call Hoyt. Good luck. (11-13-11)
  • aaron from PA asks:
    does a bow get stronger in colder temp. or not
    Winke Responds:
    Aaron, Nope, same - unless the temperature drops a lot (the limbs are a solid so they aren't much affected by temperature). However, we may get weaker! Good luck.
  • Don from NY asks:
    Hello Bill, I have been a fan of your Midwest Whitetail Video show for a year or so now. I am looking for a little advice on my Hoyt Bow dilemma. I purchased a Hoyt Raider Intruder in 1998 from a authorized Hoyt dealer that has since closed. I have used it religiously for the past 13 years. This year I went out to fine tune my sights and practice and noticed I had a cracked upper limb. I found a dealer near my house and took it there and they contacted Hoyt to explain my dilemma. After searching they do no not manufacture that model any longer therefore do not have replacement parts available.I spoke to Hoyt directly and was a little disappointed in their response that they could not help me. I would like to remain a Hoyt consumer and have looked at there current models. I would like to think that Hoyt would be able to offer me a voucher or coupon towards the purchase of a new Hoyt product to show dedication to their product. I am not looking for the full amount but at least some form
    Winke Responds:
    Don, I am not sure on that one. I think 13 years is pretty good service for any bow. I don't know what their warranty policy is, but whatever it is they (and you) should honor it. If it is a lifetime warranty on the limbs, you have a case. If not, it is like any other product you buy that wears out. When your boots eventually wear out, you don't expect Cabela's to give you a voucher for a discount on new ones. It is kind of the same thing. I would find out what the original warranty stated. Good luck. (11-19-11)
  • John from IL asks:
    Bill- Looking at getting a new bow due to my hunting stuff being stole last night. I looked at the Hoyt Carbon Element RKT. I see you just got yours, how do you like it? Much different then the 2011 model? I leave for Southern Iowa next Thursday to hunt so i'm on a time crunch. Thank you, John
    Winke Responds:
    John, Sorry I didn't get this answered sooner. It is hard keeping up with these when they come in. The cam is definitely smoother. I do like that. Otherwise it is not much different. But the smoothness factor is very nice. I would buy the new one over the old one given the option. Good luck. (11-17-11)
  • Scott from WI asks:
    Hi Bill, I have been following your show for a while now and really enjoy your analysis on bow equipment. Have love my Hoyt Trykon but because of a complete shoulder replacement at 30 years old (last year) I can not pull my bow back in cold weather. So I'm being forced into purchasing a crossbow for the later half of the bow season. Do you recommend a web page similar to trailcampro.com for crossbows? I'm completely at a loss and nobody I know shoots one. Good luck with the rest of your season, seeing as how I'm writing on Nov. 7th I don't expect a return anytime soon as you should be hanging in a tree! Good luck, god bless. Scott
    Winke Responds:
    Scott, I am not a good source of crossbow information. I can appreciate your situation though. I don't know where to turn for unbiased information. That is what is so cool about Trailcampro.com and why we love them so much - you get all the information you need to make great choices right on the site (and you can buy from them too). Not sure where to turn. Try doing a google search under crossbow reviews and see what you turn up. Good luck. (11-14-11)
  • Emery from AL asks:
    hey, i was just wondering what would be a good brand of bow for me. im 5' 10" and a 29 draw lenth, this is going to be my first bow but i dont want to keep getting new bows so i want one that will last awhile. Also do you know of a good place to find used bows for sale? thanks Emery
    Winke Responds:
    Emery, For sure the Hoyt AlphaMax would be a great bow for you to buy used off ebay. That would be my strategy if I were you. It is a great bow that they don't make anymore. Good luck.
  • John from PA asks:
    Bill I noticed you do not shoot with a serving saver rope like so many archers are today. Is it because you can obtain a longer drawl length to store more energy. And with todays shorter bows how do you keep the string from pinching the nock off the string. I know before I switched over to a serving loop when I would let up from a drawl my arrow would fall out of the bow. I shoot a 35" bow and still had this problem. Also how do you combat release wear on your string. Thanks for the entertainment on the web and congratulations on the new tv show.
    Winke Responds:
    John, I do it because it is faster to hook up the release to the string than try to capture a loop - at least for me. I think the loop is more accurate in the strictest sense, like when shooting at targets in competition. I know several top archers who do this too. They are still plenty accurate for all hunting situations but they may be just a touch quicker to the shot by going straight to the string rather than to the loop. I overwrap the serving with a strand of bowstring material from an old string. There is also a company offer something called Serving Saver that works well too. I appreciate the support. Good luck. (11-5-11)
  • Trevor from MI asks:
    Bill, Thank you for the great show that you are producing, it always has useful information. My question is I know that you have talked about having a long draw length, do you shot the new LD Hoyt bows or do you shoot the standard bow and put a string loop on it? Thanks again for the great show.
    Winke Responds:
    Trevor, I do shoot the LD bows from Hoyt whenever they have that option. I shoot right off the string with a caliper release so the loop is not a factor. Thanks for the support. Good luck. (10-24-11)
  • Brownie from IL asks:
    Hey Mr. Winke, I was curious, I've seen a lot of pros shooting PSE bows especially the Drury Outdoors team. I am presently shooting a Hoyt Kobalt which i bought 3 years ago when i was 14 and love the dependability. I have not shot any other top brands and was curious what you thought of PSE bows. Also I know that PSE bows are faster and that they make their brace heights shorter. I have no problem with consistancy and accuracy now but do you think the smaller brace height will make a difference. Great show BTW Thank you very much, Brownie
    Winke Responds:
    Brownie, PSE bows are good. They are generally very fast and feel good in the hand during the shot. I have hunted with them in the past. However, I am a firm believer in test shooting a bow. How the bow feels in your hand is the key to success. The smaller brace height might make some difference. It is a long debate, really. But the difference is most often seen with bowhunters who don't practice much and who have a rough release. I have always liked 7 inch brace heights as a good compromise between speed and forgiveness, but I am a bit old school. I would at least test the newer Hoyt bows to, in order to see how they compare. They are pretty fast too. Good luck.
  • Danny from FL asks:
    Hi Bill, I'm an absolute beginner at 51 years old. I bought my first Mathews Z7 Extreme last month and after either pinching a nerve or tearing my rotator cuff, I managed to build up the muscle to shoot comfortably at 60 lbs of draw weight. However, I reached a point that I'm actually manhandling the draw weight now and I wanted to turn up the draw weight to 70 lbs. That is until I found out that the bow doesn't go that high! "Upset" isn't the word because I was led to believe that my particular Bow could be adjusted from 40 to 70 lbs of draw weight! My question now is this: Can I purchase a bow that is set up at 70 lbs. of draw weight with a 27 inch draw length? Or is this something that doesn't exist?
    Winke Responds:
    Danny, They definitely exist. You can likely sell the one you have at a good price. Those bows hold their value well. Just make sure that when you buy the new one, you specifically determine that it maxes out at 70 and has the 27 inch draw weight. I think every single bow manufacturer out there makes such a bow. Good luck.
  • Bee from WI asks:
    Winke, I'm getting a new bow to hunt whitetail deer only. I'm looking at Matthews, Hoyt and PSE's. I'm liking the PSE Omen bow, due to the fact that it shoots 366fps. I have a 25in draw length and pull 55lbs. I know I won't shoot 366fps because of my draw length. But will the arrow still go faster then if i got a matthews or hoyt, shooting at the same draw length? I've also notice that a lot of hunting pros use PSE's, Hoyt and Mathews. Which one is better and why?
    Winke Responds:
    Bee, Yes, I would say so. It should still be faster when you compare apples to apples at your draw length. All three of those bows are great bows. I have been shooting Hoyts almost exclusively for the past 15 years, so I am partial to Hoyt, but I have also shot Mathews and PSE well over the years too. I think it comes down to which bow feels the best in your hand. Archery is a feel sport. Success has a lot to do with the feel of the grip, the feel of the bow at full draw, how it feels in your hand when you shoot it, etc. I wouldn't make this decision before shooting a good bow from each of those companies. You can't go wrong with any of them. Good luck.
  • Gavin from ID asks:
    hi my name is Gavin I'm 12 what do you think the best bow for me is?
    Winke Responds:
    Gavin, You need to find one that has a good bit of draw length adjustment. From the Hoyt line I would recommend the Ruckus. It has a lot of range in both draw weight and draw length to grow with you for a few more years. Good luck.
  • John from ME asks:
    I'm 6'8" & have at least a 32" draw length. I have a 2009 Bowtech Sniper but want to upgrade to a faster bow. I have archery hunted, shoot competively & also teach bow hunter education for years so I am familiar with shooting a bow. The problem that I run into is companies do not either make that draw length or if they do it isn't really an upgrade in speed. I also have a hard time justifying a $2000 set up with a family to take care of. Any suggestions?
    Winke Responds:
    John, I also have a 32 inch draw. I have shot Hoyts over the years (one of the reasons being that they make pretty fast 32 inch draw bows). Most companies don't make a good 32 inch draw bow so I suggest you start with Hoyt. I would not be afraid to buy a used AlphaMax 35. I know that Hoyt has a spec chart for getting 32 inches out of it since I shot that bow for a couple of years. That is a very good bow and will go 32 inches with decent (not blistering) speed. It seems like Darton has a good longer bow too. I have shot Mathews at times, but like you said, their 32 inch draw bows were usually not very fast. Those are my thoughts.
  • Robert from MN asks:
    I am just starting to get in2 hunting, i have wanted to for years but due to heart surgeries and leg surgeries but now i am wanting to start. Please recomend a good compound bow so that i may start bow hunting my budget is around $300 so the best for the money and any other tipsyou may have. thank you
    Winke Responds:
    Robert, I think at that price I would be looking for something used off EBay. There aren't very many adult bows on the market anymore for that price and when you add accessories (sight, rest, quiver) the price goes up fast. I would first figure out your draw weight - my guess would be 55 to 60 pounds if you have not shot much. That will give you some room to increase it as your muscles get stronger. But the best way to find out for sure is to try a few at the archery shop. To measure your draw length, make a fist with your bow hand and press it against the wall. With that arm stretched out and your face turned toward the wall measure from the wall to the corner of your mouth. That is roughly your draw length. There will be some variability from one bow to the next, but that will get you in the ballpark. Good luck.
  • Justin from ND asks:
    Dear Mr. Winke, Let me start off with a little sucking up by saying love the shows and your many magazine articles. With that said, I really want to start learning to work on my own bows.(strings, cables, tying in peeps, etc). Can you recommend a good book or dvd that explains and illustrates these things. Thanks for your time and keep up your great work.
    Winke Responds:
    Justin, I think Robin Hoood Archery offers some of those (search it on the Web). My book, Setting Up the Perfect Hunting Bow in MW Gear section also have a lot of information on this. Good luck.
  • Kyle from MI asks:
    I found an older compound hoyt hunter bow in average condition, i researched as much as i could about it and found that it's a late 70s, early 80s bow. Does anyone know if its worth anthing????? or if anyone knows more than i do please let me know, It's got a apple before it says Hoyt usa on one limb, and the other limb just says hunter. thank you.
    Winke Responds:
    Kyle, I will throw it out there and see if anyone has a thought on it. The Ask Winke is our most popular single page, so maybe someone will read this that knows the pricing of vintage bows like that. I will let you know if I learn anything useful. Good luck.
  • Colin from FL asks:
    I finally got all the stuff set up on my bow and ready for my trip to georgia. i was shooting good out to forty yards. so i drive 6 hours to my lease in georgia to stay and hunt bow season for the weekend. after my first sit i get back to the camp and someone runs over my bow with a fourwheeler. the rest and sight are all bent and non usuable. the actual bow looks good but i need a new rest and sight. any suggestions?
    Winke Responds:
    Colin, I once had a Suburban run over my bow while antelope hunting. It was out on the prairie so the ground was fairly soft and all that got destroyed were my arrows and quiver. Fuse is one of our sponsors and they make some very nice stuff, so I would at least start by looking at their line. I love their Ultra Rest. There are other solid brands too. Good luck.
  • James from MN asks:
    Hey Bill, when drawing back my bow, the cam or limbs make a little bit of a creek. Do you know what could be causing that and if/how I can get rid of it. I would hate to be drawing on a big buck thats close and it here that creek and spook on me. Thanks again.
    Winke Responds:
    James, When I have seen this in past the noise came from the limb pocket. The limbs ride on rockers and if those rockers are dry they tend to make some noise as the limb flexes. You can fix with grease if that is the problem. Use the grease to touch up any place in the pocket where the limb or anything attached to the limb contacts the bow riser. I have also noticed that sometimes the cable guard can make noise and it just sounds like it is coming from the limbs. If you know it is the limbs, the pocket is the likely culprit. Good luck.
  • Sam from IA asks:
    Hi Bill, I have a question about let-off. I shoot and older Hoyt, a Hoyt MT Sport. They stopped manufactuing them in 2003, mine could be older I don't know, so it's getting a little old and worn.It has a pretty low let-off. My question is do you think having a higher let-off makes someone more accurate. I can practice, practice, and practice some more but, I having never been all that accurate with my bow, especially past 20 yards. My dad has a Matthews Mission and his draw length is about 5 inches less than mine and he shoots the same poundage, but his is so easy to pull back and hold it feels like nothing and I am dead accurate with it past twenty yards easily, I shoot at different bullseyes with it because I'll broke arrows shooting at the same bullseye. But with my older Hoyt I can never really consistently hit the same spot. Is it just the bow or what? I've brought mine in to a couple different shops(Archery Field&Sports and Buck Hollow) if you've ever been to them, and they s
    Winke Responds:
    Sam, I think letoff helps, at least up to a point. I feel that I can hold a bow steady better if I am not straining. Also, I do think that some bows are just better made than others. They are more consistent. I can't shoot nearly as well with the old High Country bows I shot in the mid-90s as I can with the Hoyts I am shooting now. All the newer bows are better than their predecessors in build quality and that translates into more consistent shooting. Just for fun, get your hands on a Hoyt Maxxis 35 in your draw length and tell me what you think. It is also possible that the shorter draw length puts you in a better form position. Maybe you are overdrawing the Hoyt past your ideal draw length. Consider testing a bow that draws an inch shorter than the Hoyt. My own shooting changes a lot if I change the draw length even just 1/2 inch. Good luck.
  • Cameron from AB asks:
    Hi Bill, I can't wait to see the up coming shows this season it should be a great year! I was just wondering what bow you will be shooting this year? Thanks
    Winke Responds:
    Cameron, I will be shooting the CRX 35 this year. I really like it, great bow. Good luck this year.
  • bouie from AR asks:
    I have a hoyt crx 32, it tend to creep on me. is that normal. when i pulled back it doesn't give me an 1/8 of an inch, it started to creep on me. the bow is ready to shoot. what can i do about it. i shoot 60lb draw weight and 26 inch draw length.
    Winke Responds:
    Bouie, I would check to be sure the cams are both hitting bottom at the same time (when the harnesses hit in the flat part or the stop on the cams). If you can't tell this for yourself, ask your archery shop pro to check it for you next time you are in the shop. That bow does have a short valley. Correct form suggests that you aim at full draw with the string pulled back into the wall; this bow pretty much forces you to do that. If the timing is correct, you likely have to get used to the new way of shooting, pulling firmly, not hard, into the back wall. Good luck.
  • mark from AL asks:
    Hey Winke, I've got a bad shoulder. Drawing is not a problem. It's let down and creep. Whats a good current production bow that does not have that, "Wants to take off" feel ? I'm shooting a Bowtech Liberty now. Great bow, but I'd like more speed to draw weight ratio. Thanks, Mark
    Winke Responds:
    Mark, I always felt like the Hoyt AlphaMax and Maxxis bows had nice valleys. The CRX and the carbon bows are a bit more aggressive and are more likely to test your shoulder should you creep a bit than the AM or the Maxxis. I have the most experience with these bows, but there are also bows in other lines that have good valleys. Though the current trend is toward bows with short valleys, there are still a few around with longer valleys. Good luck. Best bet is to test a number of them at various archery shops.
  • Jimmy from MO asks:
    Hello Bill, I hope I can ask my question in a way that it is understandable. I was thinking of the axle to axle lengths of bows, and I understand why a longer ATA is more forgiving. I also have seen the progression in bow design to the long riser and short limbs. Do you think the long riser design gives the similar forgiveness factor to a bow, while maintaining a shorter ATA, that the short riser long limb bows had with a longer ATA? Does that make sense? I understand the rotational torque concept, I was just wondering if the longer risers make much difference. Man I wish my brain could translate for me better for me.
    Winke Responds:
    Jimmy, I get your question exactly. Stability is the result of moving the mass away from the hands as far as possible. The rotational inertia is a product of both distance and weight. I can't remember the formula and don't want to take the time to look it up now, but I think distance from the point of rotation counts for more of the total inertia than the weight distribution. So, if the longer riser moves the mass away from the hands farther (which it does) it makes the bow more stable. However, by shortening the overall length you reduce that affect. So it may help a bit by moving more weight away from the hand with the longer riser versus a bow of the same length with a shorter riser, but not as much as would be possible with a slightly longer bow. Net result has to be more weight farther from the hand. The bow that does that is the most stable. That is not to say that you can't shoot the other bows accurately enough for most hunting situations, but when splitting hairs, the longer bow will be more stable, more forgiving and slightly more accurate in every situation. You are getting into some heavy duty physics here so I hope I was able to make that clear.
  • Dylan from MO asks:
    hey bill, love the show, i was wondering what you thought about the hoyt alphamax 35,im thinking about getting one and wonderered what you thought, thanks
    Winke Responds:
    Dylan, I think it is a great bow. I still like mine, but need to keep using and testing the most current bow releases or I would still be hunting with it. I wouldn't hesitate to buy that bow.
  • Cameron from AB asks:
    Hi Bill I really enjoy Midwest whitetail, its amazing to see how far its come since you first started it. I was just wondering what bow you like better and why? The maxxis 31 or the CRX 32. Thanks
    Winke Responds:
    Cameron, Yes, it has been a fast growth and I appreciate all the viewers and visitors of the site that have made this possible. Seriously, I never expected this to grow like it has. Pretty amazing. The main difference between those two bows in my mind is the cam. The CRX has a more aggressive cam with a shorter valley. It shoots great, but you need to pull into the back wall of the valley at full draw or you risk creeping just that fraction of an inch that will get you out of the valley and fighting the draw weight again. If you naturally shoot by pulling into the back wall, you will like the CRX more. If not, you will probably like the Maxxis more. Good luck.
  • Kaden from IA asks:
    Hey Bill, I love your show. Im only 14 and have been bow hunting for 4 seasons now. I have learned alot from my dad. I do alot of stuff on my own now to help our spots out. There is no way I would know as much as I do without your show, you have eduacted me on a lot of things shed hunting, trail cameras, food plots ect. So thanks for all that. I was wondering what a good bow would be for me? thanks!
    Winke Responds:
    Kaden, I love the Hoyt Maxxis, even a used Alpha Max is awesome. I have shot both and think they are topnotch. If you want to spend a bit less, consider the Rampage XT. It will do everything these bows will do, but is less expensive. Also, these are adult bows so they have minimum draw lengths of 24.5 inches. So if you are an average sized young man, these adult bows will likely fit. If not, you will have to go with a youth bow for a year or two. The Pro Hawk goes down to 23.5 inches, that is a pretty solid bow. Also, the Ruckus (a youth bow) will fit for a couple of years and is a good bow too. If you can make the longer draw lengths, I would go with an adult bow. If not, the Ruckus will do well for a couple of years. Good luck.
  • David from ME asks:
    hey bill i am 14 and i have been looking for a youth bow what do you think would be a good bow for me
    Winke Responds:
    David, I am excited that you are taking an interest in bowhunting. It is a very exciting activity. I started at about your age. I like Hoyt bows, so of course I am going to suggest the Hoyt Ruckus. If you are an average 14 year old, you probaly have a 24 to 25 inch draw length, but you will need to measure that before you get too carried away. Make a fist wtih your bow hand (the one that holds the bow) and press it up against the wall. Now turn your upper body like you would if you were shooting in that direction, but face straight at the wall. This is the correct position for shooting a bow. Have someone measure from the wall to the corner of your mouth (right side if you are right-handed). This is roughly your draw length. Make sure you get a bow where this draw lenghth fits toward the lower end of the draw length adjustment range (but not right at the bottom so you have room for adjustment). This will give you some room to grow without having to switch bows right away. Get one that makes your maximum comfortable draw weight close to the lower end of the range too. Again, this gives you more room to grow. If you have a 25 inch or longer draw length, you might consider a higher performance adult bow like the Rampage XT. It goes down to 24.5 inches. These will definitely grow with you for several years. There are also other good bows on the market that fit the youth category, Mission makes some good ones too (among others), but I wouldn't limit myself to just youth bows at this stage unless your draw length is under 25 inches. Good luck.
  • craig from MA asks:
    Hey Bill, we all know you shoot a Hoyt and that they are one of your sponsors but I would like to get your honest opinion on the new Z series bows from mathews since you have so much experience with bows. thank you in advance and keep up the great work.
    Winke Responds:
    Craig, I tested one here and I like the bow. It is a good bow. Quiet, fast enough, no hand shock. I can usually find something with every bow I shoot that I don't like and the thing I don't like with the one I tested (the Magnum) was the balance. It is quite front heavy and when you carry it by the grip (string down) it always wants to turn in your hand. Not a big deal, but that is the way I carry my bows so it was something I noticed right away. I still think the best bow I have ever shot is the Hoyt Maxxis.
  • Matt from MI asks:
    Hello, I'm trying to sell my bow and running into a problem of not being able to find a website for information about it. I got it about 8 years ago. It is a Tomcat by Buck. The specs on it are Draw is 27, Weight is 50, String is 56.5, Cable is 39.5. I need to know if the draw is upgradeable to a stronger draw poundage.
    Winke Responds:
    Matt, I may be mistaken, but I think Bowtech made the Buck bows. You can only increase the draw weight with stiffer limbs. My guess is that you won't have much luck finding them, but you can try Bowtech's customer service and see if it was them that made that bow and if they can sell you some limbs. Again, just guessing, but I would bet you will be better off finding someone who needs the 50 pound limbs. It will be a fair amount of trouble to find and replace the limbs.
  • James from MN asks:
    Hi Bill, I'm thinking about getting 80lb limbs on the Monster 6, while I can pull 80lbs without any problem during the summer, I dont think I want to pull that much during the winter season with all the extra layers on. I was wondering how much it would affect my bow's function if I dropped 80lb limbs to 74lbs? Would it be better to find 70lb limbs thats can be maxed out to close to 74lbs? Thanks for your help.
    Winke Responds:
    James, The difference may not be great, but for sure, the bow will shoot faster maxed out at 74 pounds than it will if you use heavier limbs and drop them down to 74 pounds. By backing the limbs out you lose some pre-stress (every cam system is optimized for a certain limb prestress) and you gain some brace height (it gets longer as the limbs tip). Both will make the bow a bit slower. Most times bows will max at a bit more than advertised, a 70 pound bow usually maxes out at a bit over 70, for example, but you may need to see if you can get them to find you a set that will hit around 74 or 75 pounds when bottomed. They can do that, whether they will or not is another question. Limbs are accurately measured with a deflection machine and then paired based on how far they flex with a given force on the limb tip. (Or how much force it takes to deflect them a given distance - same basic idea). The techs can nail it down to the exact pound if they want to. I guess that is the direction I would go if I were in your position. Might as well get everything the bow can put out.
  • Josh from MO asks:
    What are your thoughts on shooting a bow with only a kisser button and no peep like Andrae D'Aquisto, Dan Infalt? I think Greg Miller shot this way for several years also.
    Winke Responds:
    Josh, Those guys have all been very successful shooting bucks, but their style is not my first choice for most bowhunters. I still feel there is too much margin for error. The eye is what matters since it controls the sight picture. I want a peep. My preference is toward very large ones like the 5/16 inch version Meta Peep from G5. I then center the entire sight guard (round sight guard) in the peep to maintain precision (rather than using a smaller peep and centering the pin). That gives me plenty of light, plenty of field of view and locks in my anchor and sight picture perfectly on every shot. There are plenty of ways to do it, but I feel for the average bowhunter, they will be more consisent with a peep. Good luck.
  • mike from IL asks:
    bill i bought the new bowtech invasion this last spring. i love the bow and it shoots well for me. i was wondering if you have shot it and whats your opinoin on bowtechs new bow. also i have it set at 65lbs at a 29 inch draw. i conograph it at 300fps. shooting a carbon express mayhem 350 at 9.4gpi with 100 grain field tip. i have heard a bow will preform its best maxed out. if i maxed this bow out too 70lbs what kind of speed would i pick up and is there any truth to the bows preformance. thanks
    Winke Responds:
    Mike, I have shot it and it is a good bow, for sure. The one I tested is a bit louder than some on the market, but that is to be expected because it is very fast. Has a great grip. It is true that any bow will perform best with the limbs bottomed. Not only because of the draw weight being higher, but also because that stresses the limbs to their designed point and also reduces the bow's brace height by bringing the limbs and string slightly forward. I would say you would add another 10 to 15 fps assuming you can keep the same arrow. If you have to go stiffer and heavier to get good flight then it likely will be a wash, but you will have greater penetration energy transfered to the arrow. Good luck.
  • Pat from TX asks:
    Bill, what type of serving do you prefer for your center and end servings? Also, what diameters of serving do you prefer for center and end servings?
    Winke Responds:
    Pat, I have never had to reserve the ends. In the center I use Halo from BCY. It is very, very durable and you can serve it tight. I use a large thread (.024 inch). It is about right for most of the current strings on the market. Today's top strings from custom string makers don't have the center serving issues that we faced in the past. I often get by just fine for several years with their serving. I am careful to overwrap the center serving with Fast Flight string material from old bowstrings to keep my release from wearing on the center serving. (I attach my hunting release directly to the string under the arrow). There are also other ways to protect that area using small diameter serving thread and pulling it into the creases between the larger center serving, but my system works OK and is very easy to explain to people so it is mostly just a keep it simple strategy. Good luck.
  • Dan from MN asks:
    First off thanks for the great show and for all the helpful info on this site. I’ve been shopping around for a new drop away rest and I've been looking into the vaportrail "limbdriver." I really like the concept of having the limb move my launcher down instead of just a little spring inside of the rest. My question is do you think that the attachment of the rest to the limb would add extra stress to it (the limb) and negatively affect the bow or make it hard to tune? Thanks
    Winke Responds:
    Dan, No I don't. Those limbs are very, very stout and stiff. I worked at a bow company for a while and I can say from experience that it takes a lot of force to bend them. Adding a few pounds of force for the Limbdriver will have no affect. Good luck.
  • Larry from OH asks:
    Hi Bill, Happy Easter. my question is two part; bow strings and Maxxis vs CRX. i am going to buy a Maxxis bow and i remember an episode where you suggested changing the bow sting when you get a new bow. do you think the string that comes standard on the Hoyt Maxxis is OK or should i change it. do you have a recommendation on a sting for this? is there a real difference in the Maxxis over the new CRX? thank you for your time and i enjoy your show. Larry
    Winke Responds:
    Larry, Happy Easter to you too. Hoyt puts Fuse strings on their bows and they are very well made. I use them. So, there is no reason to change strings on the newer model Hoyts (since about 2006, or so). I feel like the Maxxis has a longer valley at full draw and if you creep a little bit while positioning for the shot, or while waiting for the deer to present a shot, you will feel more comfortable with the Maxxis. I have learned to pull hard into the wall with the CRX. I think that has made me a more disciplined archer, but it does require more exertion when holding the bow bow for longer periods. Both are great bows, but that is the primary difference that you will notice. Good luck.
  • penjor from OT asks:
    i have a carbon matrix, however it is of 31" draw. my draw is 27". can i change the axle to suit my draw length? will it affect the limbs? will it affect the purformance. please advice.
    Winke Responds:
    Penjor, You can change the draw modules on the cams but I don't think it will reduce draw length four inches without a cam change too. My best advice is to take it to a Hoyt dealer and let him/her help you with that question. My guess - you will need new cams, new limbs and new string and harnesses. Not cheap. But I could be wrong.
  • Doug from IA asks:
    Hello Bill - great show and site. I've had a Katera for a couple of years and am satisfied, but all the talk about these new Hoyt bows has me curious. I assume you shot the Katera a few years ago - what improvements or differences are there to the new Hoyt bows? Thanks.
    Winke Responds:
    Thanks Doug. For sure you will notice that they have less hand shock and recoil. That is likely the main thing that is perceptible. They are also lighter, which may or not be important to you. The Katera was fast, so that is not a big change with these new bows. I have really come to enjoy the low recoil bows and would never go back to the other style after trying them (it has to do with the way the limbs are attached - they are parallel to each other in the new bows). Hope that helps.
  • Jake from AL asks:
    Bill, do you have any recommendations for a finger-shooter setup (as in type of arrow rest and a new bow that would suit a 3 finger release) that would be ideal for accuracy and forgiveness? Not concerned with high speed as much as accuracy and precision. Also, any equipment tips to maximize accuracy out of such a set-up?
    Winke Responds:
    Jake, Hoyt has always had a couple of great finger shooter bows in their line. This year, I would be looking at the Vantage Pro. It comes in camouflage, but I am guessing you will need to order this bow from a dealer as I doubt most of them will carry this bow. It is over 41 inches long, has an 8-inch brace height and decent speed (not blazing). It should be very forgiving. For a rest, I would be looking at a simple Springy and the sight of your choice. Either feathers or vanes should work on your arrows. This would make for a very nice finger shooter bow. Good luck.
  • Tom Johnson from OH asks:
    Hey Bill, I have a 29.5" draw length. I am either going to buy the Carbon Element or the Carbon Matrix Plus. Do you feel the longer axle to axle Carbon Matrix Plus is better suitable for taller guys like yourself and I? Will the nature of the string angle on the Carbon Element make it less forgiving?
    Winke Responds:
    Tom, I have heard from top shooters that the string angle makes a difference. I have not sorted that out in my head yet to understand how that works. It might be an urban legend. However, the longer bows are always going to be marginally more stable because their inertia is higher. I think you are fine with either bow at 29 1/2 inches. Both are great bows. A coin toss really.
  • Todd from IN asks:
    Other than price, what is the major difference between the Rampage XT and the CRX 32/35?
    Winke Responds:
    Todd, The main difference is the riser. It is a cast riser. There is nothing wrong with cast risers. I think the Rampage XT is one of the best values on the market. Good luck.
  • Shane from AR asks:
    I see you have shot the CRX and the carbon bow. Which one do you plan on hunting with this year.
    Winke Responds:
    Shane, I am undecided. I like them both. I may just hunt with both of them. Whenever I need to change my luck I will just change my bow!
  • Blake from SD asks:
    Bill, I was at the proshop the other day checking out the Maxxis 31. They only stock them up to 60 lbs and I asked if I could get one at 70 lbs. The owner looked at me funny and asked "Why?" He believes that noone needs to shoot more than 60 lbs. I have a 28" draw length and am looking at an elk hunt and would like a flatter path at 60 yards. I know you are in the 70's. Where do you stand on this?
    Winke Responds:
    Blake, I would just go to a different dealer. Actually, I am in the 80s with my draw weight. I shot over 100 pounds when I was in my late 20s. It is starting to test me more each year - it takes longer for me to get in shape to handle the weight. So I am sure that at some point I will drop it. I don't shoot every day. If I did, I would definitely turn it down for summer shooting to keep from putting too much stress on my rotator cuff. I feel fine shooting the weight daily for about three months, but I think it would be a mistake to shoot that heavy every day of the year. Here is the logic. I aim at a point that is only a few inches from the shoulder. If I pull the shot a bit and squarely hit the shoulder, I still want to be able to kill the deer. So everything I do is with penetration in mind. I shoot mid-weight arrows, small diameter, conservative broadheads and heavy draw weight. I have shot all the way through a quartering-to caribou one time from shoulder through back ham. I have shot all the way through a number of whitetails and mule deer on sharp quartering angles by aiming just inside the point of the shoulder and running the arrow all the way through the animal. Needless to say, they don't go far. I would hate to give up the option of these shot angles before old age forces me to give them up. That is why I still shoot heavy draw weights. I don't think adding a few pounds wil make you lethal on head-on shots, (you need to shoot really heavy to make that works) but for sure adding a few pounds may make you more lethal if you accidently hit them in the shoulder. Hope that helps. Good luck.
  • Bruce from AL asks:
    Winke, I am looking for information about Golden Eagle Bows. I know they are no longer in production and had been sold a few times before they had been discontinued.Do you know of any source where i can find information on these bows. i would like to find a comprehensive archive which lists the models they produced , specs, etc.. I recently purchaced a nice target model which is in exceptional condition but the limb tag has been removed. I do not know what model it is, it feels like the draw weight is set at approx #45 ,and it has a 30" draw.It is painted factory white. I have been told that they had been bought by jennings before they had been discontinued but i have not been able to verify that. I would really appreciate any help you can provide. I like the bow and would like to be able to find information which could help me maintain it properly. Thanks, Bruce
    Winke Responds:
    Bruce, I have the 2001, 2002 and 2003 catalogs in my files. I used to write catalog copy for them. It is likely a long shot, but if you want to e-mail me a picture, I can try to match it up. Please send to info@midwestwhitetail.com and it will eventually get to me. Good luck.
  • Kenneth from OT asks:
    Hi Bill I have a question about bows. I have a Hoyt Alpha Max 32 and it has been a great companion for me these past two seasons, but now I think the time has come to get a new and since you are shooting Hoyt I direct my question to you. If you could chose from the new carbon or the crx what would it be then and why? I have tested both but only in the shop so it is only so many shoots you can do. Im looking for a bow that is smooth to draw and let down, forgiving and fast. I hope that you can tell me what you think about the two bows. And by the way thanks for a great show it is realy inspiring. Kenneth
    Winke Responds:
    Kenneth, They are both great bows. I am saying that in all seriousness. The carbon feels better in the hand on cold days and produces just a bit less vibration in the hand when you shoot it. It is also cooler looking. The CRX is not a big drop off from there. So it really comes down to what you can afford. If the extra money is not a big deal, then I would buy the carbon. If the money matters, I would buy the CRX. It is still a top end bow.
  • Cody from MN asks:
    Bill-I was wondering why I haven't had a complete pass through when bowhunting. I shoot a Mathews Switchback set at 62# with a 30" draw length and shoot carbon express terminator arrows with a 100gr broadhead 1 1/4" G5 montec cut. I drilled a buck this year with perfect placement at 35yds, hitting both lungs and literally as close behind the shoulder as you can get. My buddy said I couldn't do it again as long as I hunt. Is it time to upgrade bows...maybe to a new Hoyt? Haha. What do I need to do to get a blow through to rip that deer up.
    Winke Responds:
    Cody, That is strange. While I do love the Hoyts, I'm sure the bow you are shooting is not to blame. It sounds to me more like other factors. If the animal moves just as the arrow arrives, that can also reduce penetration. Sometimes you get a rib on the way in and that will reduce penetration too, or you do get the edge of the muscular part of the shoulder, slowing the arrow. My guess is that you will get plenty of pass-throughs in your lifetime at the draw weight you are shooting. I wouldn't change anything. I would say it is just coincidence that you aren't blowing through. The next one will likely be stuck in the ground - painted red! Good luck.
  • Brandon from PA asks:
    I understand you shoot the Hoyt CRX but what do you think about the Hoyt Carbn Element?
    Winke Responds:
    Brandon, The Element won't make my draw length so I can only evaluate it with a bent arm. However, it is a great bow. I know many people who own them and they love them. It is quiet, no recoil and no vibration. Also plenty fast enough. I don't think you can go wrong with either bow. Good luck.
  • Ron from IL asks:
    Hey Bill, First off I wanted to tell you how much I enjoy the show and what you all are accomplishing. This is a great website! I have a question, I just started getting interested into bow hunting. So this year I am looking into buying an affordable bow that can last me a few years of hunting. I have looked online a lot, & have came across a few I like, but don't know enough about bows to know what is best. I was wondering what bow you thought is best out of The PSE STINGER, The BEAR CHARGE , & BEAR LIGHTS OUT? Or if you have any suggestions to any other bows? If you have any information on them I would greatly appreciate the help! Thank You! keep up the great work Bill.
    Winke Responds:
    Ron, I will give you my thoughts: I am seeing the Stinger pakage (all accessories) for about $420 at Amazon.com. Bow only is about $300 a few places. It is all the bow you will need for some time. The Charge is roughly the same performance and roughly the same price - close enough anyway. No sense splitting hairs at this stage. Lights Out is from 2010 line, still for sale and still supported by Bear. It also is roughly the same price, a bit slower but very well reviewed. I would say the Charge is a bit better. It is between the Charge and the Stinger. I would try to shoot them both and then select the one that feels the best in your hand. That will produce a winner either way. Good luck.
  • Mike from ON asks:
    Were you shooting a maxxis 35 or 31 last season? Would you shy away from shorter axle to axle bows even when bows like the Maxxis 31 and 35 have the same brace height and compareable I.B.O speeds? I have always thought that longer bows are more accurate. Is it that considerable in a hunting situation with a bow like these?
    Winke Responds:
    Mike, I was actually shooting the AlphaMax 35 most of last season and shot the Matrix some too. This year I will likely be shooting the CRX 35. It is also a very good bow. I think a couple of inches in length won't have a big affect on the bow's stability. Physics demands that longer and heavier bows are more stable. There is no way to argue this fact. However, the question is whether the difference is enough to make be noticeable in hunting situations. My gut feeling is that it is not unless you do a lot of long range shooting. If your typical shot is 20 to 30 yards, other factors like timing, knowing the distance and composure will have much more affect on where your arrows go than a few added inches to the bow's length. That being said, I still like longer bows and always will. Good luck.
  • Calvin from OH asks:
    I am a college student on a low budget but would like to buy a used hoyt bow. do you know any webites, businesses, drawings... anything that would be a good deal. If i sell the bow i have now i can probably aford around 300 dollars.
    Winke Responds:
    Calvin, My guess is that you can get a good Hoyt AlphaMax off e-bay for somewhere around that amount. That is a very good bow. I killed a lot of deer with mine and love it. That is probably the best route for starters.
  • John from IA asks:
    First of all I just want to say my daughter and I love your weekly shows on the website. What sets you apart from most people in the industry is that you don't pretend to be any better than the rest of us. Some things you try work and some don't but you always share your experiences both good and bad and we all learn. Keep that up!!!!!!! My daughter is 14 and is looking to purchase a bow. She is tall and thin and can probably control about 40 to 45 pounds. I don't see her growing much more. I know some companies have bows that cater to the ladies. I would perfer to get a Hoyt but I'm really don't see anything made specifically towards women. Is there a Hoyt bow you would recommend? She is in to both 3D shooting and bowhunting. Hopefully someday she will on your Pro Staff. Keep up the great work!!!!!!!
    Winke Responds:
    John, Thanks for the kind remarks. If you only knew of all the deer that have given me slip in my life you wouldn't wonder at my humility! Hoyt does have the Vicxen, a women's bow that likely would be perfect for her. Also, the Maxxis 31 is a great bow for women. You can get that all the way down to a max draw weight of 40 pounds. I look forward to the day when your daughter is on our pro staff. Wish her good luck from me this year in the field and on the range.
  • Ryan from WI asks:
    Hey Bill I have a Hoyt that is going on 6 years old and the strings are starting to fray. I have waxed the strings quite frequently. Is it time that i get the bow re-strung? How can i keep the strings in better shape? Thanks!
    Winke Responds:
    Ryan, I would say it is time to get it restrung. I would change the harnesses too while you are at it. Fuse is probably your best choice since they should have all the sizes you need being a division of Hoyt. There is no really good way to protect them short of waxing them. They all wear in time. Six years is a decent life expectancy for a string if you are shooting it regularly. Good luck.
  • scott from WI asks:
    Hi Bill Great show. Question with my setup.I have a matthews outback 60# max.27"draw ,55/75goldtip xt tip/with 100gr. 3blade muzzys ,QA drop away rest, HHA single pin sight,g5 peep sight. Having penitration problems. Should i change things? Thank You Scott
    Winke Responds:
    Scott, At 60 pounds you will never penetrate as well as someone with 70 pounds, for example. Also the 27 inch draw does reduce stored energy versus someone with a longer draw. You are never going to blow through stuff with that draw weight and draw length. I guess I would then look to the broadhead. I can't see any problem with using a Muzzy three-blade. So, I would say there is nothing you can do to this rig unless you are short drawing it and shooting a bow well below your potential maximum draw weight. If you aren't getting your release hand back by your ear you may be short-drawing the bow. This means you could add some energy by adding to your draw length. However, if you are already anchoring near the ear, don't add to the draw length. Same for draw weight. If you are well below your maximum you should shoot higher draw weight. If you can't really handle a higher draw weight without straining forget it and be careful to hit them in the vitals - you are not likely to blow through a shoulder blade with this rig. Good luck.
  • mohammad ali from MI asks:
    hey bill, sorry about the question but its been ages since i asked you one. my bow is a mission menace and i have the poundage on for 36 lbs, how far do you think i should shoot a buck with that poundage and how far should i shoot if it was a doe, if that really matters.I would like an estimate, thanks
    Winke Responds:
    Mohamamad Ali, I would try to keep the range down to 20 yards until you gain more experience and can pull more draw weight. Good luck.
  • dave from NY asks:
    Bill, Many of the bow companys seem to be in a space war to see who can go the fastest. Where and when will it end ? Is this a good thing or a bad thing ? PSE has a bow advertised at 366 fps .A flat trajectory is always a plus but to sacrifice a horrific draw cycle and a minimum brace height is not really the way to go is it ? The area of the archery industry that could end up benefiting the most with high speeds is the expandable broadhead company's. If your shooting over 280 FPS and in some cases well up into the low to mid 300's, an average fixed blade could end up in Toledo instead of a bucks chest cavity. Thanks for your dedication to the sport. looking forward to your opinion.
    Winke Responds:
    Dave, I agree, the mechanical heads will fly better at these speeds. I have run all kinds of studies and most people won't benefit much from a faster bow when it comes reducing the affects of range estimation errors. In other words, an arrow traveling 20 feet per second faster isn't all of a sudden going to make a big difference in your ability hit deer at unknown distances. However, every inch helps so there is some benefit. The real benefit the way I see it is when shooting through small openings (an arrow on a flat trajectory is less likely to contact branches above the sight line and deflect) and string jumpers. Again the faster arrow makes a tangible (measurable difference) in how far the deer can drop before the arrow arrives. For these two reasons (as much as the range error forgiveness) I like a moderately fast arrow. I shoot about 300 to 305 fps with Easton N-Fused arrows and Rocket Steelheads. It is a very accurate setup that penetrates well, hits hard and gives me some benefits in all the areas we discussed. I do that with a bow having a 7 inch brace height though. I have shot some bows with brace heights down to 6 inches accurately enough. I guess, you have to shoot them first. If they are just as accurate, you can benefit from more speed, but be careful not to shoot an arrow that is too light. I like 5.5 to 6.5 grains of total arrow weight for each pound of maximum draw force. Good luck.
  • Jason from PA asks:
    Bill I have a question about the new hoyt line. What is the difference between the bows? On paper they are mostly the same. Take for instance The CRX 35 and Maxxis 35. On paper they are very similar. What is with making all these bows so similar? Don't get wrong I love hoyt. I was just wondering.
    Winke Responds:
    Jason, They are similar, but the biggest difference is that the CRX has a new cam. Likely there are also some issues with production (maybe the CRX is easier to produce for some reason, for example) or maybe the CRX has some refinements you can't see on paper that makes it more reliable. I am not sure on that. I don't know why they built two bows so much alike, but those guys are smart so they had a reason. I suppose there is pressure to have new models all the time. You can't go wrong with either one. I have the AlphaMax 35, skilled the Maxxis and now have the Carbon Matrix with the CRX 35 on order. I have shots on and off since 1995. They have never failed me.
  • Chris from IN asks:
    Hey Bill ... great job on the show and congrats on some of the awesome bucks this last year. I think most hunters would die to have a chance at just 1 of the bucks you've harvested this past hunting season. Anyway, I have recently decided to start hunting again. I hunted a lot as an early teen and into my early 20's. As my grandfather (who was the one that taught me to hunt) got older and couldn't hunt anymore, I kinda put hunting on the back burner, which I wish now I wouldn't have. I've been telling my wife I wanted to get back into hunting the last few years but always seem to find an excuse not to. This past fall (2010) I realized I was out of excuses and decided that this coming fall (2011) I'm going to start hunting again. I figured out the last time I hunted was in 2002, almost 10 years ago when I was 22 or 23. I'm now 31 and by following the show over this last season, realize a lot about hunting has changed (equipment, hunting clothing, trail cams, etc.) since the la
    Winke Responds:
    Chris, I apologize, but your question got cut off. This section has a word limit and I should probably contact the developer to have it raised. If you get a chance to read this, please send me another question and I will be glad to answer it. Until then, thanks for your support. I really appreciate it.
  • Chris from IA asks:
    I just caught an older episode on TV with your sons first archery buck. I REALLY enjoyed the episode, I was wondering what kind of bow and draw weight was he shooting? Also what in your opinion is the minium draw weight to hunt deer? Thanks for the input and bringing us quality deer hunting every week!
    Winke Responds:
    Chris, Thanks, my pleasure. It was a Hoyt Trykon Jr bow and he was shooting 25 pounds. Well, I asked the game warden that exact question and he said, "We were killing them with 30 pound recurves 40 years ago, there is no reason why a 25 pound compound can't kill a deer." Of course the impact point is much more important with a low draw weight. Also, the size of the deer makes a big difference too. I am just glad Andrew's buck was a small one! He didn't even bowhunt this past season. He gun hunted though. In some ways I was glad he decided to wait another year. I think instinctively he knew we go lucky with his deer. To be honest, I think 30 pounds is a better minimum number. Also, for maximum penetration, be sure to use a good, sharp cut-on-impact head like the Bear Razorhead, or similar. Good luck.
  • patrick from ME asks:
    I am considering buying a new hoyt element I usually shoot my other bows at 50-53 any more than that and I strain my shoulder. I have been practicing with a 60 lb. element at about 55. I think I would be more comfortable after at 53ish.(tendonitis). Although I do feel thrilled to be at 55. Does the 40-50 max out at 50 only, or as with some bows can you eke out a little more to maybe 53. This allows me to challenge the bow at max efficiency and then if my shoulder doesn't get better shoot the lower poundage and still be near max efficiency approx. 50 lbs. What do you think? I need to know which one to buy. The Element seems to be a much better shooting bow at 55 than the Hoyt Kobalt at approx. 50lbs.Do I still maintain faster/smoother with the element at 50? Same arrows on each.Thanks.
    Winke Responds:
    Patrick, Each bow will be a bit different, but generally the companies try to size the limbs so there is some margin for error. They won't get complaints if the bow draws a couple of pounds too much, but they will get complaints if it is not enough. So you can expect it to be slightly more. Short of ordering one in and testing it, I bet the Hoyt dealer can ask the factory staff to hand pick one that maxes at 53 pounds. It is an expensive bow. In my mind, that seems reasonable. My guess is that you will hit right in that range with most of the 50 pounders. Your reasoning is correct. You should shoot a bow with the limbs as close to bottomed as possible to get the most efficiency from the bow. I am sure it will still be fast and smooth at 50, just not quite as fast with the same arrows (of course). Good luck.
  • Dusty from OH asks:
    i have a older browning boss mantis 70lb draw weight 31 draw length.....im looking for a newer bow....im considering the Athens ibex bow......or the hoyt rampage xt which do u prefer
    Winke Responds:
    Dusty, Of course, I am going to say the Hoyt. I have shot them for years and they are one of our sponsors on the show. The Rampage XT is one of the best values on the market today. If I was buying a bow right now, that is the one I would buy. Good luck.
  • Scott from MS asks:
    Got an Alpine Archery Soft Loc 5 arrow quiver for my Bow Tech Admiral for Christmas. Can't figure out how to install. Can you offer any help?
    Winke Responds:
    Scott, I have never owned one, better take it to a dealer. I think all you do is attach the block to the bow and the quiver snaps into it.
  • Jimmy from MS asks:
    Bill, call me a 53 year old, old school hypochrite. I shoot with fingers, drop away rest, 72#, 65% let off. My 40 yard accuracy is becoming iffy. I am considering lowering my draw weight, going to 80% let-off, peep, release, in that order. What do you think? What draw weight/let-off do you shoot? I'm getting older, hard to admit it, even harder to make changes.
    Winke Responds:
    Jimmy, I definitely know the feeling. I think if you drop the draw weight by 5 pounds and use an 80% letoff bow you will be surprised by how much easier it is to hold and aim. Also, with today's bows, you will likely be as fast as you were with the old bow. The peep and release will make a huge difference, as well. By far the hardest transition will be the release. Really concentrate on technique and not accuracy at first or you will lose track of what you are doing and try to release with your fingers. In other words, stand close to a blank target to eliminate any desire for accuracy and just shoot dozens of shots until you are comfortable with the release and then you can back up a little at a time until you are shooting 20 yards and trying to hit things. Main thing is to learn to squeeze the trigger not punch it. Make the bow go off and take you by surprise. It is the way a good gun hunter fires a rifle - the same system works best for bows too. Let the pin float around the spot as you squeeze the trigger. Good luck.
  • derrick from MI asks:
    Love your show. Recently decided to retire my JLG mountaineer 60/70, it has served me for almost twenty years. My wife bought me a new Carbon element 50/60 pound, a really good wife. I was wondering what you would recommend for sight, quiver, rest, currently use whisker biscuit and like it. I am currently using 125 gr broadheads and carbon matrix arrows 350gr. Would you change this for smaller lighter arrows and broadheads. I am 52 years old and plan on maxxing out the bow for now and backing off poundage as I age. I tend to keep things along time so this likely a near lifetime fit.
    Winke Responds:
    Derrick, Definitely a good wife. I would not think about trading her in! But dude, a Moutaineer? I remember when they were on the market in the early to mid-90s for only a couple of years. That thing is probably a collector's item! Fuse is a sponsor of our show and website so we are all geared up with Fuse accessories. They have come a long ways during the past couple of years and now make some of the best accessories on the market. The Whisker Biscuit is a good choice. Fuse even makes a WB rest. Now to your question about arrow weight. I would be looking for a total arrow weight of around 350 grains for that setup. If your total is 350 you should be just fine, but my guess is that 350 is just your arrow weight without the head. If that is the case, I would definitely lighten it up. There are many lighter arrows on the market now; I like the smaller diameter shafts because they pentrate better. So I would definitely be looking for some new shafts and 100 grain broadheads. I think you have a good plan there and you will love the Carbon Element. Good luck.
  • Steve from FL asks:
    Hi, Just bought a used High Country Extreme. 98-99 model. I am trying to find a guide/manual to learn how to set the draw poundage and length. Plus all other tech. info on this bow. I am 30-years out of bow shooting. Looking forward to target and maybe hunting. Thanks, Steve. Illinois now in Florida.
    Winke Responds:
    Steve, You can try High Country, but I am not sure they would have access to that material anymore. A lot of changes have occured at HC since 1998. Believe it or not, I used to collect catalogs from all the bow manufacturers so I have the 1998 and the 1999 High Country catalogs. The Extreme had a variety of cam options so the procedure for changing the draw length will depend on which cam option your bow has. However, most were modular (which is not good 12 years later). Modular cams permitted you to easily change the draw length by replacing an element of a different size on each cam. That is a great way to do it if you actually have the elements you need for your draw length. I am certain that High Country no longer makes most of those cams so finding draw length modules may be very hard. Some of the cams did permit a small amount of draw length adjustment simply by moving the end of the string from one post to another. Your only hope is to take it to a dealer (ideally am old High Country dealer) and see if the pro shop attendant can help you. Adjusting draw weight is much easier. You just use an Allen wrench and tighten or loosen the big bolt that holds the butt of the limbs into the riser. Make sure to adjust both the same amount. The easiest way to do that is to crank both of them down tight to the riser and then back them off equally, but no more than about four full turns. Good luck.
  • bill timlin from FL asks:
    I am going to buy a new bow, I shoot a katera now.Its between maxis and carbon element. Which do think is the better bow. Thanks.
    Winke Responds:
    Bill, I think in most things they are about comparable. The Maxxis has a slightly longer valley. The Element is fast, light and quiet. Really, they are both very good bows. You can't go wrong with either one of them. If you have the money laying around, buy the Element. If not, the Maxxis a great bow. Good luck.
  • Carter from MO asks:
    Bill,what type of bow should I buy?I have a old 1980`s Bear bow that has had it im looking for 45lbs-70lbs. Thanks,and Merry Christmas!
    Winke Responds:
    Carter, Anything you buy now will feel like a rocket launcher compared to the old Bear. You won't find one that will go 45 to 70 pounds. Probably 60 to 70, would be more like it. I think Hoyt's new Rampage XT is a great value and you would love that bow. Check it out. Good luck.
  • david from FL asks:
    Out of the Hoyt bows available, which ones do you find to be the best for tree stand hunting?
    Winke Responds:
    David, They all fit into that description. There is nothing inherent to tree stand hunting that would give one bow an edge over the others. I would buy the one that feels the best when you shoot them at the archery shop. Even some of the value priced bows are a great choice.
  • Brandon from AL asks:
    Bill, what do you think about the new carbon bows? I am planing on purchasing a new bow this year and was wanting your opinion. I currently have a Mathews Drenalin which I like however, I think I am begining to see the light and would like to try a Hoyt. I am not the type of person that gets a new bow every year I prefer to keep it for 4-5 years. If carbon are not your prefered choice of the new Hoyt line up what bow is? Thank you for expert advise and keep up the good work.
    Winke Responds:
    Brandon, It is a cool bow. I really like the way it feels and how quiet it is. I also think you will kill just as many deer with the Maxxis or the CRX. I have not shot the CRX yet, to be honest, but I am planning to try one soon. From what I know about the bow based on the cam (it is the same as the Matrix Plus), the limb geometry and the specs, I pretty well know what it will feel like and what to expect. I have shot the Maxxis and the Carbon Element and Carbon Matrix and the Matrix Plus and they all shoot well. You can't go wrong with any one of the three. If you have the money sitting around and you don't need it for anything else, go with the cool factor and buy the Element. If the money is not just sitting their, I would go with the Maxxis or CRX. Hope that helps. Good luck.
  • Jerod from TX asks:
    Hey Bill, do you find the Fuel cams easier to hold on the backwall than the XTR's? I've always shot spiral cams, but I never could get comfortable with the XTR's on the backwall and was told they modified the cams to help with that. thanks, JB
    Winke Responds:
    Jerod, No, I felt the XTRs had a slightly longer valley so you had a bit of room to creep without having your arm jerk forward. Not that you should be creeping anyway (pull solid into the back wall) but it happens occassionlly. If you never creep you won't notice much difference. For sure the cams are different. Good luck.
  • Jamie from IN asks:
    I'm looking at purchasing either a 2011 Hoyt Rampage or Rampage XT. I like the longer ATA of the Rampage, but the extra speed of the XT. I heard the draw of the Rampage is a little smoother than the XT, but haven't shot either one yet. Any input? Is one quieter than the other? Not sure if my height matters on the ATA length, but I'm about 6ft tall even. Thanks.
    Winke Responds:
    Jamie, For sure the Rampage will be smoother with the M4 cam. In fact, it is about the smoothest drawing bow in the Hoyt line. They both make the same maximum draw length of 30 inches, which is probably about right for your height. I have not shot them side-by-side so I am not sure on the noise, but our producer, Greg Clements, does have the XT and he loves it. I have heard him shoot the bow and it is very quiet. I guess if it were me, with my priorities (I like speed with my accuracy) I would be buying the XT. Just be sure that you hold the string solidly into the back wall because the XT has the same cam style that is becoming popular throughout the industry with a short valley. Good luck.
  • Dustin from OH asks:
    have u ever heard of the browning boss mantis bow or the parker archery line......i like the parker inferno but havent heard much about it
    Winke Responds:
    Dustin, The Boss Mantis has been off the market for a number of years. It is an OK bow by today's standards. It was a good bow when it came out but things have changed a lot since then. Unless you can get it really cheap, I would look for something more modern. Parker makes good, solid bows and the Inferno is a good looking bow. It is very short, but that may be something you would like about it. The bow is fast and based on its limb design, it probably doesn't recoil much. I am sure I shot the bow at a recent ATA Show, but the experience doesn't jump out at me. I shoot lots of bows, so that is not surprising. Of the two, I would definitely lean toward the Parker. Good luck.
  • Todd from AR asks:
    Bill, Love the web video. Been watching you guys for two years. Addictive! Anyway, what are your thoughts on the Hoyt Alpha Burner? Pros/cons versus the Hoyt you shoot? Any thoughts on the PSE X Force series? I'm thinking about upgrading to faster bow. Any thoughts you have would be helpful. Thanks and God bless. Todd
    Winke Responds:
    Todd, Some of the pro staff shoot the AlphaBurner and I have tested them. The only tradeoff is one of forgiveness. It is widely viewed that the higher the brace height the more forgiving a bow is because the arrow gets off the string quicker and you have less time to affect its flight negatively by breakdowns in your form. There is definitely something to this, but for a good archer with a good follow through and proper form, it is not a huge difference. Again, if you practice often, these low braced bows (and the XForce falls into the same category) are definitely accurate enough for hunting. The extra arrow speed is also nice to reduce string jumping and reduce the possibility of deflecting off twigs that are above the line of sight. The flatter trajectory also forgives some range estimation errors. Hope that helps. Good luck.
  • jacob from AR asks:
    I know yall are all Hoyt,but, there is a small bow company called Concept Archery, and they have 99 percent let-off bows. I'm buying one called the concept C32. I was wondeering if you ever heared of it? If not,the website is concept archery.com. It's okay if you don't look at it. thanks, and congratulations on your buck this year!
    Winke Responds:
    Jacob, Yes, I have heard of them and have shot them. They work as reported. It is very odd to hold back just fractions of a pound at full draw, very odd. Good luck.
  • Matt from MI asks:
    I am looking for a new bow. I hunted with a "Fred Bear, Code," for 11 years and in the past 5 years have been shooting a "Mathews Switchback XT". The Mathews and I have never really meshed. I am really leaning toward the Hoyt CRX 32. I am 6'2" so fairly tall. I hunt agriculture, timber and crp. My effective range is out to 50 yards. What Hoyt bow do you feel would be the best over all complete package. I want the bow to be reliabale, fast, quiet and smooth. Thank you
    Winke Responds:
    Matt, I still love the Maxxis too. I would look at the CRX or Maxxis. They have different cams and different draw cycles so they feel different. I would definitely want to shoot them side-by-side first. They are both very good bows and the Maxxis has the advantage of being time tested, but by all indications, the CRX is also very good.
  • Jason from PA asks:
    Hey, Bill I see Hoyt is only installing one sting leech on there upper end bows. Why is that? I shoot a hoyt alpha max 35 and it only cam with one string leech on it and i fell part. Do I need one on my hoyt? I was considering those Studs by G5 any thoughts?
    Winke Responds:
    Jason, They aren't mandatory equipment. I am not sure why they use only one. I can only assume did some testing and determined that one was enough to knock out most of the vibration (in conjunction with the string stop) on that bow. Having a little weight at that point might make the bow a bit faster too, so you may want to check with Hoyt's customer service to see if that small bit of weight impacts speed. The G5 Studs are fine, but again, I would call Hoyt to see if that bow prefers a certain amount of weight at that point in the string before arbitrarily adding or removing weight. Of course experimenting is fun and you certainly can't hurt the bow either way. Good luck.
  • Matt from AL asks:
    Bill, simple question. Can you explain the performance advantages or differences in a machined vs. cast riser? I am on the fence with the Hoyt Rampage XT, CRX and the Maxxis. The other night I shot the XT and the CRX side by side. Felt a little vibration after the shot on the XT. Not a lot. I plan on going back and trying it with a stabilizer. Just thought I'd ask you if there's anything else to consider when weighing the differences. I was very impressed with all three bows. Thanks
    Winke Responds:
    Matt, There is no real difference in performance. The machined riser has the potential to be stiffer for the same weight since it comes from a forging (better molecular density to the metal). However, I have to believe even the cast risers are plenty stiff to produce consistent accuracy. For the money, it is hard to beat the Rampage XT. It is what our producer Greg Clements is shooting and he loves it. Hoyt wants me to shoot their top line bows, but I would be more than happy with the Rampage XT. It is a great bow. Good luck.
  • Brett from OK asks:
    Bill, I appreciate everything your doing and just want to let you know your not alone in this seemingly non productive rut. I took a look at hoyts new line up and am intrigued by the rampage xt. I would love to hear your outlook of that particular bow. Also, do you have a pisitive or negative perception regarding the cast risors.
    Winke Responds:
    Brett, I have a positive perception of cast risers. They work just fine. I like the Rampage XT. I think it is just as good as Hoyt's top line bows, but without the machined riser. I would definitely take that bow seriously. Good luck.
  • Dan from AL asks:
    I noticed that Mathews is really pushing the shorter ata bows this year. How do you feel about bows with shorter ata? Do you think that a bow with 30" ata is too short to shoot accurately if my draw lenght is 30" also? Thanks.
    Winke Responds:
    Dan, I am a mechanical engineer by training and one thing we learned about was inertia. The longer a body is, the harder it is to move it quickly along that length. That is why it is harder to swing a long bat quickly than a short bat. A longer bow has to be more stable. It is just physics. So I tend to like the longer bows from that standpoint. Also, I have a long draw length so the short bows don't fit me (another reason I don't care for them!). However, at bowhunting distances (out to 40 yards) you are not going to notice a big difference in accuracy from the stability you gain with a longer bow. Yes, if you are competing in a 3-D tournament where even a fraction of an inch might spell the difference between winning and losing, the longer bow is important. In bowhunting, fractions of an inch are seldom the reason we succeed or fail, so for me it is now a neutral issue. I don't need a short bow, don't want one and don't really see why everyone else thinks they are so great, but if that is what they want and it won't cost them too much accuracy then give it to them. To answer your question, I would like to have a longer bow at your draw length. Good luck.
  • Heath from KS asks:
    Bill, again thank you for a great site, and down to earth information. That is what my question is about this time. I was thrilled to hear about the Rampage XT. It is going to take me forever to save for a Maxxis. What practical difference is there between the Rampage XT and Maxxis 35. Will I be able to shoot the Rampage with the same accuracy? I hate to say it, but why spend the extra $300?
    Winke Responds:
    Heath, I would expect them to shoot very much the same. Greg is very happy with the way the Rampage XT is shooting for him. The Maxxis has a few more bells and whistles, but really the Rampage XT is an excellent value and will shoot as accurately. You can't go wrong with that bow.
  • Steve from MO asks:
    Bill, I have a new Hoyt Maxis which I love. My only issue is that for some reason at 40 yards suddenly my arrows are dropping a foot or more below impact verses at 35 yards or 45 yards. Also, at this range they drift a foot or so right of the impact point at other yardages. What would cause this? Am I somehow dropping my bowarm and/or jerking my release trigger. If so, any quick cures to suggest? Thanks! Steve
    Winke Responds:
    Steve, If the bow is shooting consistently at 35 and 45 yards, this has to be something you are doing. Maybe you are dropping your bow arm (most likely). Try to keep it on the target until the arrow hits. Sometimes when we start to make poor shots at a certain distance it gets into our heads and we become our own worst enemy. We get to expecting a bad shot and then that simply makes the bad shot that much more likely. If you keep your bow hand perfectly relaxed all the way through the shot and then keep the bow arm pointed at the target until the arrow hits, it is hard to mess the shot up too badly. Good luck.
  • Trenton from OK asks:
    do you ever hunt in North eastern Oklahoma? If so what do you suggest for crossbow hunting equipment?
    Winke Responds:
    Trenton, I am not one to stir things up among legal hunters, so I will not debate about the merits of crossbows versus hunter-drawn bows, but at the same time I prefer the hunter drawn bows and have never spent much time shooting or studying crossbows. Unfortunately, I don't have enough experience to make any useful recommendations. I am sorry. Also, I have not hunted OK, but know many who have and they all think it is some of the best overlooked deer hunting in the country. Good luck this fall.
  • Trevor from MI asks:
    Bill, I would like to start off by saying you have a great show keep it up. My question is I noticed Hoyt is making some Long Draw bows this year, I too have a 32" draw and I am wondering will you be shooting one of them this year. Which one would you shoot, and why? Thank you for the great entertainment. Regards Trevor Wiliams
    Winke Responds:
    Trevor, I know this is not a good answer, but I shoot whichever one the marketing department at Hoyt asks me to shoot. I have a new Carbon Matrix here sitting on my office floor waiting for me to get it set up. I need to make that happen right away. However, I have heard many good things about the Maxxis 35 from every that has shot it. I don't think you could go wrong there. I have not shot the CRX 35 yet, but I am guessing that is also a very good bow. Hoyt is definitely going places with the bows they have in the line now. I am excited to see the growth and quality of product. They are all good bows. For someone trying to save a little money, the Rampage XT is an awesome value. One of my producers is shoting that bow and loves it. But I don't think it makes 32 inches of draw length.
  • Dalton from KS asks:
    I own a High Country bow. I can pull up to 70 pounds straight back (without reaching to the ground or sky) but my bow only goes to 60 pounds. The string is getting old and I think i would rather just get a new bow then replace the one I have. I was thinking about going with the Mission UX2 but the poundage only goes up to 70. A guy suggested that i buy a bow from him that is a High Country with the max poundage at 105. I know what u said about high country, but what is a sand cast riser? What bow would u suggest i get? Thanks and i love the show!!
    Winke Responds:
    Dalton, They don't make sand cast risers any more. That was back in the early 90s. I would not shoot over 80 pounds even if you can handle it. The draw weight is too hard on your rotator cuff of your shoulder and will soon wear out your shoulder. A 70 pound bow will serve you well. But I always advocate shooting as much weight as you can handle accurately. I just would not go over 80 pounds unless you are planning to hunt rhinos, hippos or elephants anytime soon. Probably not a lot of hippos in KS, eh? Good luck.
  • Mike B. from NY asks:
    Great show.My sons and I tune in almost every day. I hope your trail cams show the great 8. I'm shooting a Diamond Rock @ 64# with Easton Flatline surgicals 400 spine with 75 gr. rocket aeroheads. I'm just over 5 gr. per pound and am getting 290 fps out of my 28 inch draw. I am very happy with the flat shooting but feel like I'm giving up too much kinetic energy for knockdown power. At 6 gr. per lb. I was at 260 fps. What is your opinion on shooting trajectory vs. knockdown power? I like the increased margin of error (even with my Nikon 550 rangefinder) but don't think I'm going through a tough shoulder bone. Thanks for your help. God bless you and your family.
    Winke Responds:
    Mike, I did not get the Great 8, which has me bummed. My guess is that last winter claimed him. It was a hard winter here and he was getting very old. They don't live forever. to answer your question, I am not sure you going through a tough shoulder bone with the heavier arrows either. 64 pounds at 28 inches just may not be enough for that. I am more concerned about the long-term reliability of the bow and accessories with this light arrow. If you think the bow is quiet enough and there isn't a lot of vibration left in the bow after the shot, I think you are probably OK with the lighter arrow. I like fast arrows too. There are definite advantages, but you just have to be balanced and know the tradeoffs before getting too carried away. Sounds like your rig is OK as long as it is not vibrating and loud.
  • Chris from OK asks:
    Hi Bill, I have an Older PSE bow that has some cam lean issues.The yoke on the harness is split so I twisted up one side and got the bottom cam straitened up,however the top cam is farther out and I twisted up the long side of the yoke to the point almost all the tension was off the short side and it helped but its still out.This bow has solid limbs if that makes a difference. Any ideas? thanks Chris
    Winke Responds:
    Chris, My guess is that the limb itself was manufactured poorly. If you balance up the loads on it and it still won't pull around then the axle is not lined up correctly with the limb or the limb itself is inconsistent (being stiffer on one side than the other). With that in mind, I would see if you can get a replacement for that limb. I doubt PSE will warranty that limb for this issue, but it worth asking. You may have to buy it. It is my hope that this will fix the problem. Good luck.
  • Dalton from KS asks:
    Does High Country make a bow with 105 pounds of pull? How many pounds do you pull? Is it better to pull more and have the same arrow go the same amount of speed or pull less and still have it go the same amount of speed? Thanks
    Winke Responds:
    Dalton, I don't know about High Country. I shot that much weight a long time ago when I worked for them and had access to all the parts in the plant. I doubt it was truly safe with those sand-cast risers. I shudder to think about it now. Anyway, my personal view is to shoot the heaviest draw weight you can handle easily and then shoot a pretty heavy arrow that soaks up most of the energy the bow puts out. I want to be able to kill a deer if I accidentally shoot it in the shoulder. That is why I gear up the way I do. So, I am not looking for more speed with a heavy draw weight, but greater arrow energy (heavier arrow).
  • jeff from PA asks:
    just bought a pse with a 32.5 inch draw lenght. can i use my 31.5 lenght arrows? they are easton 2413, 100 gram tips.
    Winke Responds:
    Jeff, You might be able to, but it really depends on your draw weight. I would guess that the 2413 would be good to around 70 pounds max. After that I believe it would be a bit too flexible. I used to use 2413s at one time with an 85 pound bow, but I shot them off an overdraw back then and cut them down to about 27 inches. I now shoot 29 1/2 to 30 inch Easton FMJ and Axis N-Fuse shafts.
  • Jamie from IN asks:
    Bill, I shoot a 10 year old PSE Thunderbolt. It is still very accurate out to 40 yards and shoots a 380 grain arrow at about 240 fps set at 60lbs (it's a 60-70lb bow, I have a 28 inch draw length). I'm thinking about getting a new bow, but with personal finances a bit tight, was wondering if it was worth it. Typically, what is the life expectancy of the limbs of a bow like this one or the life expectancy of this bow in general? What would the life expectancy of a newer model bow be? The one I have has always been stored in the house (not the attic or garage where the temp changes can be drastic) and has no visible defects. But I'm a little afraid of the limbs breaking just due to the age of the bow. Also, thanks for bringing a Christian witness to the hunting industry!
    Winke Responds:
    Jamie, I appreciate your support. That bow should last a long time. I would not worry about the limbs cracking as I believe that bow used a solid glass, molded limb design that is very durable. Basically, the only thing likely to wear out is the string and harness system and if they look like they are still in good shape, you are fine. I hunted with one bow for seven seasons recently and had no issues at all and that one was set for 85 pounds. Yes, you can defintely buy a better bow than the older technology Thunderbolt. Mostly they would be faster, probably quieter and for sure less recoil in the hand. Speed will be better, the shooting experience will be better, but you don't have to upgrade in order to shoot plenty of game. As you note, keep it stored at room temperature out of the direct sunlight and it should be fine for many more years. Good luck.
  • Heath from KS asks:
    Bill, Sorry to ask so many questions, but I don't have any other hunting resources. How much would you pay today for an Alphamax? Would I get a better deal to wait until January to buy an Alphamax? Money is the issue, should I just bite the bullet and buy the Maxis?
    Winke Responds:
    Heath, I love the AlphaMax. I don't think it is quite as sweet to shoot as the Maxxis, but it is a very good bow. I would not be afraid to own one for many years. If you are buying the bow used, I suspect it will probably be cheaper after the season. If buying the bow new, you might find some price reductions, but I doubt it will drop much. If you can afford the Maxxis, I would go that route, if not, the AlphaMax is a great bow. Good luck.
  • jordan from MO asks:
    Hey Bill, what do you think of the Hoyt powerhawk?
    Winke Responds:
    Jordan, I think it is a good bow. I personally like the TurboHawk better if you can afford it. The TurboHawk is basically an economy version of the AlphaMax. From that standpoint, it is a good value.
  • Mike from ON asks:
    Bill what's your opinion on shooting older equipment? How much speed and kinetic energy will an older bow cost you? I'm still shooting a Hoyt RazorTec I bought brand new in '03 because I love it and am supremely confident with it. I used to buy a new bow very regularly but I can't seem to talk myself into spending the money on a bow that I don't truly belive is any better than the one I already have. I have friends who have all kinds of newer bows but few are as quiet as mine and don't really seem significantly faster. Am I turning into one of these guys who lives in the past and doesn't realize he's shooting an antiquated piece of history or should I just stick with what works.
    Winke Responds:
    Mike, I agree with you up to a point, but let me give you a story just to illustrate what you may be missing. I flew out to Salt Lake City in October of 2003 to see the Hoyt plant and to make an UltraTec myself that I could bring home and hunt with. I loved that bow. It has killed more deer than winter and if I had to make a notch in the grip for every deer I have killed with it, there wouldn't be any wood left. Hoyt was not particularly excited with me still shooting that bow during the 2008 season but never came right out and told me I had to switch to a newer model. Finally, last year they said, "We need you shooting one of our newer bows." I got my hands on the AlphaMax and began shooting it. I didn't have those warm fuzzies with that bow because it had not killed any deer. After shooting a few does, I started to feel a little better about it, but still was thinking the UltraTec was the best bow I had ever shot. Just to find out, I did a side-by-side comparison. I shot them both, one after the other. After only a few shots, I literally tossed the UltraTec aside. Despite the number of deer I had killed with it, that bow was nowhere near as good as the AlphaMax. The AlphaMax was so smooth, felt tons better in the hand and slightly faster. That is what you will see. Grab your old bow and head to the archery shop and shoot it next to the Maxxis and see if you don't agree. I am not saying you need to change bows every year, but the designs get enough better each year that changing every three years is probably a pretty good idea.
  • cameron from AB asks:
    Hi Bill I am about to buy a new bow and would like your opinion. What do you think of the mathews Z7? Its a toss up between the maxxis 31 and the Z7, I cant decide!!! thanks bill
    Winke Responds:
    Cameron, Of course, Hoyt being one of our show sponsors I will certainly recommend their products. But in truth, they are both very good bows. I have always liked both Hoyt and Mathews bows. Through the years, my friendships at Hoyt have kept me shooting their equipment. Not to say it isn't good stuff - they make great bows - and the Maxxis is the best that Hoyt has ever made. My advice is to shoot both bows side by side, if possible. The one that feels the best in your hand is the one you should buy. They are both great bows so it will come down to feel.
  • Scott from PA asks:
    Hi Bill, respect all that you write, produce, and share. Thank you in advance for consideration to this question. What is the best way to store your bow? I have heard all different suggestions: bow hook on the limb, laying on its side (sights facing down), on a wall rack supporting the limbs, a hook through the top wheel, or in hard case/soft case on its side. Please advise on your thoughts for bow storage.
    Winke Responds:
    Scott, That was a much more important question back when all the bows were made with laminated wood limbs or were otherwise laminated. If you stored them wrong the limbs could twist or even deliminatate. That is not the case with today's high tech laminates and solid glass limbs. I would (and do) simply hang the bows from a hook on the wall. Through the top cam or just under it. I have one bow I have stored that way for 8 years and it still shoots great. Older bows required more care in storage. Today's bows are so much more durable and reliable.
  • Kevin from FL asks:
    Does the 2010 Hoyt Maxxis have a floating buss cable or a standard buss cable?
    Winke Responds:
    Kevin, If I understand your question right, it floats. I am guessing that you mean that the buss cable has a short piece that goes to both sides of the top limb and then it feeds through a loop in the main portion of the cable. In other words, you can't really shorten one side of the harness yoke because eventually it will feed through and equalize to both sides. There is a way around that if you are trying to tune out cam lean, but I don't want to bog everyone down with that information you specifically need it.
  • Kim from TX asks:
    Hi Bill. I'm looking at getting a new bow. I am interesting in the Diamond Black Ice. It has a 65%-80% let off. How does that range work. I have a 26" draw length and am currently pulling 50 lbs. What would my let off be? Thank you for such a great program. I'm new to bow hunting and learn so much from your great shows and articles. Your teams are the greatest!
    Winke Responds:
    Kim, Thanks for your support. It will work via the location of the draw stop, I believe. I am not a huge fan of doing it that way unless you don't plan to use the 65% setting. Basically, they shorten the valley slightly with the location of the draw stop so that you don't drop as far into the valley (thus getting only 65% letoff). However, in so doing, you have a very short valley. That may not be the way Diamond does it, I am not sure, but I believe it is and it is the way most of the companies execute the adjustable let-off. Personally, I would just plan to shoot it at 80% and you will be happy. At 80% letoff, if you are pulling max 50 pounds you will be holding 10 pounds (.2 X 50). Good luck. Bill
  • Paul from TX asks:
    Bill, I noticed some of the newer bows are coming out with draw stops and wondered if you could explain the benefits to them. Thanks, Paul
    Winke Responds:
    Paul, I love draw stops. They help you hit the exact same draw length each time you anchor. That not only increases the consistency of your anchor point, but it also increases the consistency of the way the bow works. If you vary your draw length slightly from shot to shot, most bows will produce different impact points at the target as a result. The cams roll differently and deliver the arrow differently when you vary the draw length. This is why creeping is such a bad habit. You want the end of the arrow stay perfectly stationary relative to the bow all the way through the shot. It is easiest to do that when you are pulling lightly into the back wall at full draw. The more solid that back wall is (a draw stop) the more consistent will be your shooting.
  • Kim from TX asks:
    I notice that someone was looking for spare parts for his Pearson. I happen to be getting rid of mine. Would love to see if I could help him.
    Winke Responds:
    Kim, I wish I had real classified section. All I can do is post your offer here and hope the other fellow stumbles on it. Thanks much for your interest in helping.
  • Heath from KS asks:
    I just watched "String Gobblers, Kansas Rios". That is a great show, I really liked the two pictures within the pictures. Keep up the great work. My question is what model of Hoyt were the guys shooting, and how many pounds were they pulling. I can't believe how quiet their shots were!
    Winke Responds:
    Heath, Thanks for supporting the show. Scott was shooting the Maxxis, Ryan was shooting the AlphaMax and the guys in KS were shooting a mixed bag of Hoyts. I think Scott and Ryan shoot about 70 pounds. The guys out in KS are young strapping lads so I would think they are pulling some pretty good weight too, so it wasn't because of low poundage. These are very quiet bows. Like with any bow, you need to make sure all the accessories are solid, snugly attached and that you have your quiver off. Bows tend to be much quieter without a quiver.
  • Dalton from KS asks:
    Do u ever hunt with a recurve bow?
    Winke Responds:
    Dalton, I shot a P&Y buck with a recurve back in 1992. I spent that summer practicing nearly 2 hours per day. I was good on the range to 15 yards, some days even farther, but I never got really good with a recurve like some guys do. I have friends that are incredible shots with recurves. One of my neighbors has never hunted with a compound and is nearly 70 years old. He still takes at least one big buck per year. I know a few others that are really good, as well. I think someday (after I have shot enough big ones) I will go all recurve and restrict my shot selection to 20 yards and in. Right now, I still love shooting those old brutes and having one eating beans at 30 yards and me not being able to shoot still makes my skin crawl. When the day comes that letting him go at 25 or 30 yards isn't offensive to me (maybe someday) that is the day I start carrying a recurve.
  • john from MN asks:
    did hoyt ever make a compound with model name of .t star
    Winke Responds:
    John, No, I don't think so. I believe that might have been a Jennings back many years ago.
  • Marc from MI asks:
    Bill, Hope your 2010 is going well. I recently grabbed an 2006/07 Pearson Spoiler at a garage sale for $45. It is minus the string and cable and the top wheel is bent. Other than that it looks as if just came off the assembly line. I bought it because I can immediately take the whisker bisquit rest, cobra sight and quiver and put on a bow I just bought for 6yr old daughter. So I think I already got my moneys worth. I would still like to outfit this bow and set it for my wife but can not seem to find replacement parts for it. Through your travels, do you know of any "spare parts warehouse?" I'm pretty sure cables and strings shouldn't be too much trouble to find, its the top wheel that might be difficult. Your thoughts?
    Winke Responds:
    Marc, I have not heard of any spare parts shops for bowhunters, unfortunately. Try Pearson to see if they have any left over inventory laying around. They might, but that company has changed hands a few times in recent years so who knows if the current owner even has any of the assets from the company dating back that far. However, another option is to buy the exact bow off e-bay and use it for parts. It may take a while to find one. That is what I would do - you would still have a good, almost new bow for much less than new bow price. Good luck.
  • Lance from TX asks:
    1. I shoot a Bowtech Guardian at 55lbs. pull. I understand that this is sufficient to kill deer and most any other game in North America. However, when I practice at 30 yards I notice that my arrow has an arc. Is this arc decreasing my killing ability out to 30 yards? How does this arc affect my hunting? And how will it affect my shooting from a tree stand? 2. I always keep my bow in a case. Will the bow be safe in the back of a truck if it is in a case hard or soft? Thanks for any assistance you can provide?
    Winke Responds:
    Lance, It is normal for all bows regardless of draw weight. They all have an arc to their trajectory, just with a really fast bow, you don't notice it as much on the shorter shots. That won't affect your ability to kill game. A large degree of arc, however, will affect how high the bow shoots from a tree stand. Since gravity isn't acting on the flight of the arrow the same when you are shooting downward, it tends to shoot high. The more arc there is in the arrow's flight, the higher it will shoot on downward shot angles. The only way to know for sure how high your bow shoots is to practice from an elevated location that is roughly the height of your tree stands. Also, an arcing trajectory puts more importance on getting the distance of the shot exactly correct. Be sure on shots past about 20 yards to do what you can to know the exact distance of the shot and use the correct pin in the correct manner (such as holding high with the 20 yard pin or splitting the 20 and 30 yard pins). An arcing trajectory is perfectly normal. Good luck.
  • Sam from WI asks:
    Bill, Thanks for this show we all need a little deer hunting year round. I just bought a used Bowtech Admiral it is setup with a G5 peep but I am having a hard time keeping the peep straight. Should I change it to a peep with a cord? If so how much speed will i lose? What would you do? Thanks, Sam
    Winke Responds:
    Sam, You won't lose a lot of speed, a few feet per second. If you want to get away from the rubber tube, you can often make a twist or two or a half twist or three in the string (in the right direction) to bring the peep around so that it comes back square each time. If that is more than you want to mess with, the rubber tube is fine - just be sure to change the tubing often to make sure it is still functional. Tubing can dry out and weather very fast and then break when you need it most.
  • Kevin from IN asks:
    Bill, I have just purchased a used hoyt alphamax 32, I already own the bowmaster portable bow press. I was wondering if you have any tips on how to use the bow press on my new bow. Thanks for your time Kevin
    Winke Responds:
    Kevin, I have used the Bowmaster with the 35 inch version of that bow without any problems. You have to use the split limb brackets that you can buy from Bowmaster, however. If you find that the brackets are pushing the string down and keeping it tight as you shorten the Bowmaster, consider running the brackets underneath the string rather than on top of it. I am not sure you can get it short enough for some of the shortest bows on the market today, at least if you own a Bowmaster made before those bows became popular. If that is the case, contact the guys at Bowmaster and see about getting a cable with the stops in the right places. Good luck.
  • Alex from OH asks:
    Thanks for all the help about getting my bow set up and everything. But i recently I was reading an article of yours about bow comparisons and I was wondering what you favored the Alphamax or the new Maxxis? Thanks
    Winke Responds:
    Alex, I think the Maxxis is slightly better - a tiny bit faster and slighty less jump with the past parallel limbs - small difference. I have shot both. Both are great bows - both are the best that Hoyt has ever made.
  • Chris from TN asks:
    Bill,I am curious with the new bows that you get from Hoyt do you shoot the original fatory string's and cable's or do you install aftermarket custom's? THANKS
    Winke Responds:
    Chris, I used to replace them immediately back in the early to mid 2000s but Hoyt has really improved their string making techniques. I have mostly been using the factory strings, but I also like custom strings. I have used Winner's Choice quite a bit over the years. They are great strings. For example, after I cut through my string on the AlphaMax on the last day of the hunting season this year, I replaced it with a Winner's Choice string. To answer your question more directly, you shouldn't have to replace the string on any new Hoyt.
  • logan from OH asks:
    Bill, do you shoot any other brand guns or bows since I don't recall TC making any shotguns and do you shoot any deer without camera.
    Winke Responds:
    Logan, I still shoot many other brands for my own informatoin and reference. Because I still write quite a bit for the magazines I need to stay up to date on what everyone is offering. However, I have shot Hoyt for the majority (but not all) of my hunting since the mid-90s (about 15 years). TC does make a shotgun barrel for their single shot guns, but they don't make any kind of repeating shotgun. I don't shoot any deer off camera, except the odd doe now and then. I stopped doing that when we started the MW show back in 2008. I didn't know if I would like it or not, but I have to admit that I do enjoy the added challenge and the memories we take back are special to me and my family. There have been a few times when the camera has cost me a chance at a nice buck, but that is OK too. I have shot a lot of bucks. I am enjoying the challenge and the opportunity to use video to teach other hunters.
  • James from VT asks:
    Hi Bill, I have never bow hunted before but have been thinking about it for years and your show has helped inspire me to dive into this year. My question is there are obviously a lot of bows on the market at various price ranges so short of shooting them all and hoping one jumps out at me is there a good way to determine a bow that's right for a first time shooter? Would you suggest spending the money on a high end bow or because of possible bad form to start with is that a waste of money?
    Winke Responds:
    James, Congrats. I think you will really love bowhunting. As a first-timer, I would stick with a solid performing bow with a 7 inch brace height and a relatively smooth cam. These bows will kill everything on the planet. You don't need the latest and greatest to be effective. I have said it elsewhere in the Ask Winke section, but I think Hoyt's TurboHawk is one of the best values on the market right now. It is at least $200 less than the high end bows on the market but has all the technology and good shooting feel you could want. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
  • Alex from OH asks:
    I'm 16 years old and have been hunting for 7 of them. The past year I really got into bow hunting and have a crossbow but I've really been wanting to upgarde to a compound bow. There's so many bows out there to choose from and I was wondering if you would have any bow in mind that you would prefer that i should try out?
    Winke Responds:
    Alex, There are many good bows on the market, but with Hoyt as a sponsor I want to suggest one of their models that I think you will like. The TurboHawk is a great bow at a good price. I believe it comes in under $500. If you can't afford to buy that bow, there are some good used bows on Ebay. I know that includes some risk, but if you can get someone with experience to help you buy the bow, I believe you can eliminate most of the risk and get a near new bow for about half of retail. Good luck.
  • curtis from OH asks:
    I just want to say thanks for the 09 on line hunting season. I want to say thanks to the ohio boys and gals for making ohio natives proud. My question is, when should you replace your archery equipment? I am shooting an 05 hoyt ultratech and I am starting to see it's age, but it still shoots well. I did have a rodent chew into my string and pop it off. When in your opinion should you just replace the whole bow? Thanks again!
    Winke Responds:
    Curtis, You can get a lot of mileage from a bow. If you still love it and shoot it well there is no pressing reason to upgrade. As you have learned, you do need to upgrade the string and harnesses every few years (depending on how much you shoot). I shot the Ultratech since Oct 2002, when they first released it. I loved that bow. It had killed many deer. Finally going into last season the Hoyt marketing folks actually told me I had to put it away. They wanted to see me shooting something newer. I got the AlphaMax and shot it well. Then one day I thought it would be good to do a side by side comparison between the AlphaMax and the UtraTec. After just a few shots, I literally, not kidding, tossed the UltraTec on the ground and vowed never to shoot it again. That is how much better today's bows are. They are faster, lighter, less recoil, quieter. If money is not a big issue, you might want to consider upgrading. Despite my love affair with the UltraTec, I would never go back to it now.
  • Brian from ME asks:
    Hey Bill Just wanted to see if you had a chance to shoot those Strother bows yet and if so what do you think. I am looking at getting the SR-71.
    Winke Responds:
    Brian, For some reason I missed that bow at the ATA Show when I was shooting everything there. Sorry, but I can only go by the photo, the specs and my experience that most of the bows on the market today (not all, but most) are very good.
  • jared from IA asks:
    Hey Bill, i watch the show and i am adicted! My question is, I am 13 and am drawing 60 pounds but only have a 25" draw lenght i am interested in an "adult" bow and need to decide whether to get one to grow into or get one that is a litle big and have to get new cams eventualy that i can grow into do I buy the Bear Attack that the draw length can ajust, from 25" to 30.5" or buy a Mathews z7?
    Winke Responds:
    Jared, Bows today are very good. I would buy one that you can grow into, one with modules that easily adjust. Once you stop growing, then it is time to consider a bow without modules that has a fixed draw length. You should be able to get three good years from a bow before you even consider buying a new one. I love new bows too, but really, they don't change that much from year to year. Over the course of several years you can notice the cumulative difference, but in the short-term buy a bow that fits you at every stage of your development. Fit (draw length) is the most important quality of a new bow. All the other features and performance numbers are secondary.
  • David from OH asks:
    hello i love the show cant wait till next year!! you and all the teams did an awesome job this year! i just have a quick question im 15 and pull around 55 to 6o lbs and have a 28 1/2 inch draw what would be a good affordable bow for me. Thanks,David
    Winke Responds:
    Mission is making good affordable bows for people your age. The bows have lots of draw adjustability. Also, the Hoyt TurboHawk is an awesome value. I don't think you can go wrong with that bow. If these are both too expensive, you will have to find something used as anything cheaper will likely be a low performing bow. I bet you can find a TurboHawk on ebay at a great price if new pricing is too high.
  • Dale from NY asks:
    Hi Bill, great show and great penmanship for many years in Petersen's. I look forward to your articles in every issue. My question is why do you shoot such a high poundage on your hunting setup? With the speeds, kinetic energy and efficiency of today's bows on the market isn't 80 # excessive. In the past you have written on the "perfect" hunting arrow speed and 260 was the original preference you gave and more recently you updated that # to 280 with the advancements in today's technology. I believe you also wrote that you are now comfortable suggesting shooting a finished arrow weight of 6.5 gpi also because of the stored energy in today's bows. I was just wondering what you gain by shooting 80 #. Thanks for answering - Dale Peterman Western New York
    Winke Responds:
    Dale, Thanks for your support. I don't promote that high poundage, but I shoot it because I can. When I can no longer handle 80+ pounds accurately, I'll stop shooting it. I always fear hitting the biggest buck of my life square in the shoulder. It isn't too far from where I am aiming and it is not unreasonable to think it could happen. With the weight I am shooting and my long draw and my heavy arrows (and the small diameter shafts I use) I am sure I will get enough penetration to kill them every time. Yes, it is excessive for all other hits (except the straight-on frontal) but I am preparing for the worst case. I used to advocate 260 fps for fixed blade heads but that was before the manufactures improved the build quality of their heads and also before the time of the compact blade heads. With these smaller fixed blade heads, the speed limit is much higher. Also, with mechanical heads the speed limit is also much higher still. I only shoot about 300 fps with my setup despite the long draw and high poundage because I use a fairly heavy arrow. My set up is not for everyone, but it makes sense for me.
  • Raymond from AL asks:
    Did you get to shoot any of the new bear bows at the ATA? the assault?
    Winke Responds:
    Raymond, I shot the Attack and it is a very good bow. The draw cycle is a bit stout, but it feels very good through the shot, is fast and quiet. It stacks with anything on the market.
  • Joey from MS asks:
    Who do you trust to buy a used bow from? Maybe a store you are familiar with? I'm scared of ebay.
    Winke Responds:
    Joey, If you go the e-bay route, use your credit card to pay the paypal account, don't use cash in the account. That way you can simply tellt he credit card company to not pay if things don't work out right. I trust e-bay if done right. Buy from someone with a very high rating and lots of sales. He is likely just selling on commission for local folks, but he/she won't want their seller rating hurt by any funny business. Also look for 7 day money back refund offers. I buy a lot of video gear off e-bay and have had good luck using these precautions. I am sure there are other ways to cut out the funny business, but that should get you a quality deal.
  • Chris from OK asks:
    Bill, I have a Reflex Extreme that has some cam lean.This bow has what I think is the soft yoke where the yoke attaches to one end of the axle, goes through a loop on the cable,and attaches to the other end of the axle.Can I replace it with a split harness cable so I can twist the ends of the harness to straiten up the cams? Thanks, Chris
    Winke Responds:
    Yes, you can do that. It would also be tempting to try to tie a half knot around the end of the harness with the soft yoke and then just see how much that changes the tune of the bow. That would allow you to make the same adjustments without having to buy a new harness. The knot placement would be critical and that might turn into a mess if you get it wrong. Your best bet is the spring harness system. Good luck.
  • Michael Barta from MI asks:
    I want to buy my wife another bow to shoot,she shoots about 45 lbs with no issues. The bow itself is a Jennings and is about 12 years old. There was a Hoyt bow I was looking at or the new Passion bow from Mathews, what do you think? Love all your shows and hunting articles I think you truly represent what I beleive most hunters are like! Thanks!
    Winke Responds:
    Michael, Of course we are partial to Hoyts because they are one of our sponsors, but there is nothing at all wrong with the Mathews bows either. My wife shoots a Trykon Sport and loves it. Hoyt also has a new one called the Vicxen that they are promoting for women. Good luck to both of you.
  • Raymond from NC asks:
    I wanted some information on the maxxis 31. I always wanted the alphamax and liked it shot great when I shot it at the bow shop, the bow shop has them for $775. They also have the new maxxis 31 for $799 which bow would be better? Thanks, really enjoy the show.
    Winke Responds:
    Raymond, Both are great bows but the Maxxis is slightly better from the standpoint that it produces slightly less recoil in the hand - limbs are more parallel - beyond parallel at full draw. It is kind of like splitting hairs, but I think the Maxxis is slightly better.
  • michael from GA asks:
    I was wondering if you had any experiance with bear bows? there 2010 line looks great. And do you know if fuse quivers will fit these bows.
    Winke Responds:
    Michael, I have been impressed with Bear ever since the company changed hands several years ago. They now put out very good products and some of them are very good values. I have not shot the 2010 bows yet, but I will at the ATA Show in Columbus, OH in mid-January. If you can wait that long, I will have some better feedback for you. Yes, the Fuse quivers will fit the Bear bows. They will fit any bow.
  • Pat from MO asks:
    I recently bought a PSE Bow Madness XL. I'd like to reduce the draw length. Is it as simple as removing the small allen screw and moving it to the desired slot, ie, either A, B, C, or D? For instance, my new XL is apparently set at 29"(the screw is in the B slot), and I'd like to set it to 27" draw length. Would I just unscrew the allen screw and move it to the C or D slot, without putting it in a bow press? I'd appreciate any info you can give.
    Winke Responds:
    Pat, I don't have one of those bows in my office, but from what I remember on that one, there is a module that you have to move. If I had the bow in front of me, I could tell you immediately, but I am trying to pull this one from memory, and my brain is like one of those bad piggy banks - it goes in but it don't come back out! You can make the change without a bow press, that much I know, but I think you have to move the module to a new station. The best thing to do is to call a PSE dealer and ask him/her. I am afraid I might give you bad information if I start relying too much on memory.
  • Chris from TN asks:
    Bill,do you know anything about the Elite bows?I'm thinking about buying one of the new Hoyt AlphaBurners or trying the new Elite Judge.Didn't know if you had shot either one of these bows yet.Congrat's on a great season of the website.
    Winke Responds:
    Chris, I have not shot either bow yet but will have a chance to shoot them both at the ATA Show in just less than a month. I generally shoot every bow on the market at that show and get a good feel for what is working and what is not. If you ask me at that time, I'll have more input for you.
  • Tyson from IL asks:
    I have a question and a comment, I know you wont answer this or probably dont even read this...but on that great 8 that had that huge reaction time and your comment on the way you either stop a deer before shooting or how its relaxed in the field..lets say grazing...will a faster bow like the new alpaha burner make a difference? and when you hunt do you have a specific hunting set up with an alpha max...like arrow shaft stiffness and broadhead weight and fps? how do u decide what you hunt with?
    Winke Responds:
    Tyson, I answer all my questions - at least all the legitimate ones. I think a faster bow would make a difference. There is no question about that. However, it might only reduce by a few inches, it would still not be fast enough to eliminate the drop at that distance, only reduce it. I actually went to a faster arrow as a result of the problems I have had with string jumpers this year. I have always tried to keep my finished arrow weight (all the parts installed) at about 6 1/2 grains per pound of max draw weight. I shoot 80 pounds and my arrows have always weighed about 525 grains. However, I dropped that down to about 475 with the arrows I am using now (about 6 grains per pound of draw weight). I hate going much lighter than that because I don't want to pound my bow and accessories too much with super light arrows.
  • mario from NY asks:
    Hi bill i shoot a hoyt katera and after hunting season the draw length just dont feel right when i get to full draw the string stops short of my nose dont really know what the problem is.I shoot winners choice strings my draw length is 27inches and all my other bows are perfect at full draw is their any way to fix this problem tried a smaller d loop.cant figure it out.THANKS and keep up the good work.
    Winke Responds:
    Mario, Sounds like the draw length is too short for you. The Katera doesn't permit draw length adjustment without getting different cams and possibly different limbs. I would try to find a 28 inch draw Katera somewhere, if possible, to try. My guess is that you would like it a lot better. In fact, any other recent Hoyt model in 28 inches should give you some idea what the Katera will feel like. If you determine that you need a longer draw, you may just have to sell the bow on e-bay and buy one with a longer draw or see if the dealer can put different cams on it for you. Good luck.
  • cameron from AB asks:
    Hi there bill, I was wondering what you like better the Alphamax or the maxxis?
    Winke Responds:
    Cameron, I believe the Maxxis is a better bow, but the AlphaMax is a very good bow. There is not a big difference. The Maxxis is a little more dead in the hand. That is my take after shooting both. Good luck.
  • Zach Sullivan from PA asks:
    Dear Mr. Winke, One of your pro staff members (Nate Little Team Ohio) helped me out greatly this summer setting up my new Hoyt Alphamax 32, giving tips etc. I arrowed my first buck with a bow this fall, 13 point 153 3/8 green score. I just wondered if you could help me get in touch with him as I would like to share my experience and thank him for all the help. Keep up the great work! Love the show. Yours truely, Zach
    Winke Responds:
    Zach, Congratulations. That is a great buck. Nate is a great guy and we are proud to have him on the pro staff. I'll send Nate your e-mail address and ask him to contact you. I generally don't give out personal contact information for the pro staff.
  • Jeremy from TX asks:
    How long do you think the short bow craze will last? I'm 6'6" w/ a 32" draw, not only do NONE of these bows fit me; they feel awkward in my hand. I need a bow that is proportional to me, one that's long and stable. How are you shooting these new short bows? Or how do I get Hoyt to set me up a bow being that I have no clout? Better yet, can you use your clout to get Hoyt to make a bow that will fit us? Thanks for the great website.
    Winke Responds:
    Jeremy, I don't think this trend will go away. I think you will see more backlash bows though, longer options in several lines that give people options when buying. I have started to seet that a little bit already with the 2010 bow lines. Sorry, my clout doesn't extend that far. I personally would buy a Seven37 bow from Hoyt, or look for one used off e-bay. It is a good bow. That is what I was shooting part of the time last year.
  • Jeremy from TX asks:
    I just read that Hoyt set you up w/ an Alphamax that was close enough to 32 inches for you to shoot. My question is how are you shooting the new Maxxis 31 w/ a 30" draw? I have a 32" draw and have become very frustrated w/ ALL the bow companies out there not making a bow w/ a draw length long enough for me to shoot. We all know longer bows are easier to shoot and are more forgiving, just look at the competition bows. Ulmer's latest article in Petersen's sums it up "Short bows can never be as stable as long bows - end of story" The last 7 bows Hoyt made are basically the same (Mathews is the same as well), why won't they make one that will fit archers like you and me? I know the answer, there's too few of us to make it profitable. So, what do I (we) do????
    Winke Responds:
    Jeremy, You answered your own question. 28 and 29 inch draw is the typical sales point. There just aren't enough guys with draw lengths that long. Hoyt makes some good long draw bows (the Seven37 is one of them) but they aren't the fastest in their line. Come to think of it, I think they dropped the Seven37 this year. I bet you can stil find one on E-bay. You have to buy the longer bows (like this one and the UltraTecs). I still have an UltraTec in my closet that I will never sell or give away (just in case). Eventually they will start making longer bows again. Everything cycles. Soon everyone will be running around saying, "My bow is the most stable" rather than saying, "My bow is the shortest."
  • chris from TN asks:
    Bill,Do you like the new Maxxis 31 as good as the Alphamax 31?What about the new Alpha Burner is it as smooth as they say it is for a speed bow?LOve the shows so far.Looking forward to the next 3 or 4 weeks.Keep up the good work.Don't know how you have enough time to do all your doing.
    Winke Responds:
    Chris, I haven't shot the AlphaBurner so I can't comment on that one. I would say the Maxxis is as good as the AlphaMax, but it is not enough better to sell your AlphaMax and buy one. The AlphaMax is a great bow. I am definitely running low on time. Thanks for the support.
  • don from AL asks:
    do you think the size and draw length of a hunter should dictate what length axel to axel bow he/she should buy? i am 6'2" with a 30.5 draw length. i have always shot a 36 in a to a bow but now i want to get a new one and a 36 a to a bow with parrael limbs looks hugh. the 32" a to a looks like a little toy in my hands. any rule of thumb or just preferance?
    Winke Responds:
    Don, I guess it is just preference. At the normal bowhunting distances, the difference in stability offered by an additional couple of inches of bow length won't be noticeable. If it is any consolation, I prefer the longer bows. But again, I have a 32 inch draw length and I have never been able to shoot the short bows anyway. I like an axle to axle in the 36"+ range. There aren't many of them left out there. Kind of bums me out.
  • Josh from AR asks:
    You checked out he new Hoyt's yet? The carbon matrix looks cool!!!!!!
    Winke Responds:
    Josh, They sent us the new Maxxis to review, but I have not seen the Carbon Matrix yet. I'll take a look. Bill
  • tracy from MO asks:
    Dear bill, I love the show and think your doing a great great job. Ive seen many advertisments over the new alphamax and was just wondering why every says its such a great bow. whats the diferense bewtween it and a redhead toxic made by bowtech? thanks tracy
    Winke Responds:
    Tracy, I believe the Toxic is also a good bow. I don't think I have shot that one, however. I have shot some of the other Redhead/BowTech bows and they were very good. We like the AlphaMax because it is fast and doesn't produce any hand shock. It has proven accurate for me. It is lighter than any previous Hoyt design. I have been a Hoyt fan for many years and I am certain the AlphaMax is the best bow they have ever built.
  • Jim from IL asks:
    Bill, In one of your past articles, I read that you have a 32 inch draw length. I was wondering, how are you able to shoot the new Alpha Max 35? I have also been "blessed" with a 32.5 inch draw length myself (which limits the bows I can shoot) and find they do not make these new bows with long enough draws. Thank you, Jim
    Winke Responds:
    Jim, Hoyt actually rigged one up to fit me. It doesn't quite make 32 inches, but it is pretty close. They put the side-plate gip on it, overwrapped the cams very slightly and removed the white plastic from the draw stop to get me just under 32 inches. Before shooting this bow, I used the old UltraTec and the new Seven37. The Seven37 might be what you need. Good luck.
  • Heath from AL asks:
    Bill, I continue to enjoy both the show and the ask Winke parts of the sight, a huge resource. I want to follow up on another's question. In a question about new gear, you recommended the Ultratech for someone on a budget. I really like my bow, but it is an older model and it is pretty loud. Is it safe to buy a used bow on line? How would one spot abuse or damage? How important is it to upgrade to higher speed? Budget is a major concern, but I struggle putting new strings and cables on my old bow when that is going to cost $150 or so. I only paid $180 for the bow two years ago. What do you recommend?
    Winke Responds:
    Heath, I wouldn't hesitate to buy off e-bay as long as you use your credit card (not purely a Pay Pal account balance) and then only buy bows that offer an inspection period. If there is a problem just tell your card company you aren't going to pay it. Also, look for sellers that have several sales and a very high rating. There is probably nothing wrong with the bow you have, but if you want one that is quieter, you will need to upgrade. If that is the case, you may as well get a faster one too. I probably wouldn't upgrade just for speed unless your bow is really slow. Also, you don't need to put new cables and string on the bow every year. I had one bow that I hunted with for seven straight seasons and never once replaced the Winner's Choice string and harnesses I put on it the first year I got it. If they show signs of damage, replace them, but I wouldn't replace them otherwise.
  • Jim from WI asks:
    Hi Bill Have you noticed on the new Hoyt Alfa-Maxs(32) that the rests need to be set way to the left. It dosent seem right but the shop says thats the way they are, Do you know any thing about this? Thinking of buying one but it kinda bothers me. Thnaks for any info JP
    Winke Responds:
    Jim, I don't have mine set up that way. I am not sure why they are saying that. Mine is set up for dead-square center shot and it is shooting very nicely with a drop-away rest. If the arrow was washing side to side, it would definitely show up with a drop-away since there is no side pressure. I'm not seeing anything like that. Maybe you should talk to someone at a different shop and see what they are doing.
  • John from CT asks:
    When you get your new Alpha Max will you use the new standard grip or the side plates? I can't make up my mind on which I like better for hunting. What are the pro's and con's for each style?
    Winke Responds:
    John, There aren't a lot of tradeoffs with these two grips, really. Most of the best archers like a narrow grip because a narrow grip makes it harder for you to torque the riser when you are shooting. The best modern day archer, Randy Ulmer, shoots the AlphaMax with his grip removed. I may give that a try at some point, but I am shooting the one with the side plates. Their standard one-piece grip is a good one too and not wide by any means. So it really comes down to feel. I like a fairly low wrist position because of the way I hold a bow, so shooting off the back spine of the riser suits me just fine (side plates or no grip). However, if you like a slightly higher wrist position, you may want to experiment with the other options. Comfort at full draw is just as important as a narrow grip, so be sure that whatever grip you settle on, that your bow hand is comfortable and relaxed.
  • Evan from IL asks:
    hey bill unfortunately this is a corn year for my property. in early October i like to hunt the fields so as not to disturb the deers habits in to woods! their is still like 30 or 40 yards between the corn and treeline!..i was wondering how you would hunt this...like would u stay on the treeline n hope to catch them walking to or from the corn...or would you go into the woods anyways and hunt in there?..i also have another question!!...in the last couple of questions you were talking about 80% let off...well this might sound stupid and out of touch with technology but is that really possible...i mean if there was a really strong person pulling back 80 pounds!...does that mean with the let off they can really be holding back only 16 pounds?? thanks evan
    Winke Responds:
    Evan, That is correct. They would be holding 16 pounds. Now, to your other question: I would definitely still hunt the field edge. The are going to be heading for the corn unless they have a lot of acorns in that area. Acorns and browse are the only things that would keep an IL deer out of the corn, clover and alfalfa in October. If you find that they aren't coming to the fields, pretty good chance there is something they really like in the timber (most likely acorns). Good luck.
  • Jordan from IA asks:
    Alphamax 32 or 35? Bill, I am going to be purchasing a new bow after this season. I really love the bows that Hoyt makes and have shot the Alphamax 35. Wow!!! What a bow. Personally, I think I would purchase the 35 over the 32 for just the extra bit of forgiveness. I was just wondering why you chose the 35 over the 32. I'm just wanting to gather as many opinions about the bow as possible.
    Winke Responds:
    Jordan, I have a long draw and the 32 wouldn't fit me. That is the simple answer. However, I like longer bows and if they made an AlphaMax 38, I would be shooting that instead. If you study physics you will see that a longer bow has to be more stable, those are the laws of inertia. How much affect a couple of inches will have on your accuracy at 30 yards is debateable, probably not much. But I think if you can get a significanly longer bow you will notice it. My advice to you - it probably won't matter much.
  • Kevin from NY asks:
    I'm looking a set of cams for a 1999 Golden Eagle Evolution Bow. 28" 70#. Any ideas as I can't find anything?????
    Winke Responds:
    Kevin, Man, that is taking me back a few years. I have not seen that bow around for a while. It wasn't a bad bow though. I would try Ebay and just buy the whole bow. My guess you could get one pretty cheap as bows more than a couple of years old drop off fast. I don't think that you will find the cams. Golden Eagle went out of business a long time ago. Any dealer would have sold (or discarded) cams by now. Good luck, I fear you will need it.
  • chris from TN asks:
    Bill,can't believe it's almost time to get after them again.Looking forward to seeing all the new shows.Congrat's on getting it all together.Have you seen the new Bow turbow cable slide?It kind of looks like a mathews roller gaurd.It replaces the standard cable slides.They are advertising it to boost your speed from 10-30fps.Just wondered if you had seen it and if you would reccomend it or not.Thanks for a great website & keep up the good work!
    Winke Responds:
    Chris, Thanks for your support. I think I answered this one once. When you pull the cables in like that, you effectively shorten them. When you do that, you change the draw length and draw weight of the bow (both go up). Try it some time. Put your bow in a bow press and put 20 twists in your harnesses. Will it make the bow faster? You bet it will. Not only because it changes the limb pre-stress, but also because of the increase in draw length and draw weight. When Mathews designs a bow with a Roller Guard, they build the extra limb stress that comes from the Roller Guard into their design. When you put the Turbow on there it changes the dynamics of the force draw curve. I'm not saying it will hurt the bow, I'm just saying it isn't magic.
  • John from FL asks:
    Hi my wife has started shooting this year and is going to go hunting with me this fall. I was wondering which type of broadhead would be best for her bow. She is shooting at 37# and with a draw length of 23" an a arrow speed of about 191 fps. I was wondering which one would you reconmend. Thanks for your time.
    Winke Responds:
    John, That is a pretty similar setup to what my wife is shooting. For a broadhead, she has been using the Muzzy 75 grain three-blade. It is light enough to balance her arrows well and it is a solid head that penetrates well. I would also consider any two-blade head such as the Phantom, Magnus Stinger or Steelforce. Our son is going to try it this year with a bow, and being only 9, he definitely has penetration issues. I will have him set up with a two-blade (cut to tip) head for sure.
  • Jordan from IA asks:
    Bill, love the show and website. You guys are doing a great job and I can't wait to see how all of you guys do this season. I was wondering if you have had a chance to shoot the new Hoyt Turbohawk. I would love to buy an Alphamax but being a college kid, I can't really afford to do that right now. I have been hearing alot of good things about the new Turbohawk and was wanting to get your take on it. God bless, Jordan Schuler
    Winke Responds:
    Jordan, I have not shot it, but I understand that the Turbo Hawk is a great bow. That has come from a few people I know. I would say that bow is a good safe bet for the money. Good luck. I appreciate your support.
  • Steve from OK asks:
    Is it better to shoot a 60-70lb bow at 60lbs or a 50-60lb bow set at 60lbs? I want a new bow, and I getting older (sigh). That 65lb draw I have been so used to for 20 years is getting a bit tougher. So I am looking at a newer, higher let-off bow. I like the Hoyt Turbohawk. Any thoughts?
    Winke Responds:
    Steve, You are always better off shooting a bow with the limbs as close to bottom as you can. This produces correct pre-stress in the limbs and decreases the brace height slightly. It can be more than just splitting hairs with some bows. You can see a noticeable pick up in performance (especially with bows having a high degree of limb pre-stree) by shoothing them at their maximum poundage. So the short answer: shoot the 50-60 at 60 rather than the 60 - 70 at 60. The Turbohawk is a good bow. In fact, it is one of the best "budget" bows on the market.
  • Dennis from MI asks:
    Bill, got hooked on your show last fall, love it.. I have taken deer with a recurve,longbow and compound. Now that Mi will allow, I am going to the crossbow. I am 45 and still in pretty good shape but my shoulder does let me down from time to time. I believe the crossbow gives me the best chance on a clean and ethical shot. What are your thoughts on the subject? pro or con .. DENNIS IGNOWSKI MI
    Winke Responds:
    Dennis, Thanks for watching. I appreciate it. I think that a crossbow offers some advantages and some disadvantages. First, you don't have to draw them so they are easier to aim and shoot accurately. But they are not quite as fast as a compound (at least the lower weight crossbows) because they have a short power stroke. That is improving and many of today's crossbows are much faster than those from just a couple of years ago. I like hand-drawn bows personally. I like the craft of shooting them accurately, but if your health necessitates a crossbow, I am for you. Good luck.
  • andy from MI asks:
    hey bill, i saw an advertisement in an archery magazine for an aftermarket cable slide/roller cable guard called the "bow turbow" it mounts on a cable guard and essentially makes a bow with a cable guard have a roller guard. they claim when adjusted to the correct location that you can gain 10-30 fps without changing bow weight or draw length. i find that kinda hard to believe but was just wondering if you have seen this product and what you think. i am currently shooting a bowtech guardian and have had a problem with vane clearance and my cables with half inch blazer vanes.
    Winke Responds:
    Andy, I haven't studied their claims, but I have seen the device at the deer classics we went to this year. It may do something dynamically to increase limb flex during the draw, but purely from a static point of view, it has to have the effect of making the harnesses shorter. That in turn makes the draw length longer and the draw weight higher. I am not up to speed enough on cam design and dynamic forces of the bow to know what it does beyond that. It may do some really cool stuff, but if that were the case, wouldn't every bow company already be using them? It is not like these top companies are filled with engineers who got their degrees in a box of Cracker Jacks. These are smart guys. There must be some tradeoffs we are not hearing about. May be a fine product, I would just be a little suspicious until you get the straight story.
  • Scott from OH asks:
    Hi Bill. I bought a Mathews Reezen a couple of months ago with a 29 1/2 draw length and it feels too long. So I bought a 29 inch cam, but that seems too short. I'm funny about draw length. My question is can I twist the buss cable on the shorter of the two cams to increase the draw length a 1/4"? If so, how many twists could I go? Thanks, Scott.
    Winke Responds:
    Scott, Yes, you can make small tweaks to single-cam bows without affecting nock travel. I am not sure how many twists it will take. I would say it will be purely trial and error, but consider starting with about a dozen twists and go from there. The more twists you add, the more sensitive the cable will get to further twists. In other words, the draw length will start changing fast past a certain number of twists. Good luck. Bill
  • shane from MS asks:
    I see that you generally use a longer axle to axle bow(ultratec, 737, etc.) I would guess that it probably has something to do with your 32" draw. My draw goes from 28.5" to 29" depending on the bow. I've always used a shorter axle to axle bow until this 3d archery season. Switched to a Hoyt Vantage X7 and love it so far. It's got me thinking that I might try a Hoyt 737 for this upcoming hunting season. Finally, my question. With your trestand hunting experience, how do you compare the pros and cons of a long ATA bow vs. a short ATA bow. I am concerned with the longer bow being cumbersome in the stand. But, I also know how forgiving and accurate a longer bow can be. thanks for your help Bill from way down in south Mississippi. Shane.
    Winke Responds:
    Shane, I don't think there is enough of a difference to notice. Put it this way, a long bow is now 37 inches. It five inches longer than a short bow of 32 inches. That is roughly 2 1/2 inches on the top and 2 1/2 on the bottom. Will you notice if the bow extends 2 1/2 inches longer on the bottom limb or top limb. Unlikely. It might make a difference in a ground blind or cramped space and it might make a difference if you were going to a 42 inch bow from a 32 inch bow, but I seriously doubt you will notice the difference. Good luck down there in Mississippi Shane. Best to you. Bill
  • Josh from WI asks:
    Hey Bill, I was just wondering if you thought that it is bad to shoot bows in the cold very often? I shot mine all winter long and it developed a cracked/peeling limb!I was just wondering if me shooting it all winter would have done that!!
    Winke Responds:
    Josh, It may have had some affect, but fiberglass should be good well below zero without losing its properties. I have shot my bows in some pretty nasty conditions. It is more likely just a defect in the limb. I would call the warranty department of the manufacturer and see what they have to say about that one. I bet it is just a bad limb. Good luck. Update: I contacted a friend at Hoyt and he said that there is no minimum temperature limit on their bow limbs. So unless other companies are different, you likely just have a faulty limb. Bill
  • Matt from WI asks:
    Hey Bill, I have a question about the floating yoke system on the hoyt line of bows. I know that a static yoke helps take out cam lean better, but it is my thinking that hoyt makes a floater for a reason. What do you use on your hoyt's and if you do have a little lean with a floater, do you just shoot it in and let it settle where it wants to? Or after shooting it in do you try and slide or pull the floater to the side that needs adjusting and let it settle that way? Thanks alot.
    Winke Responds:
    Matt, I am not sure why Hoyt uses a floater, but more than likely it is to prevent cam lean. Unless you know what to look for, the static yoke can actually cause people problems because if one side stretches they have lean and don't know why. Most well-built bows today don't have much lean in the cams. It is one of the things I check when I get a new bow in and it has been a few years since I have seen it on a top name bow. There is likely too much force involved to slide the looped end of the harness and hope it would settle off center slightly. I think if the yoke is floating I would take it back to the dealer if the cam leans significantly. There is probably something wrong with the axle holes (not square). Those are my thoughts off the top of my head. Good luck.
  • Ryan from AL asks:
    I'm looking at upgrading to a new bow this spring and am looking at the Hoyt Alpha Max 32 & 35. I currently shoot a Hoyt Vectrix XL and really like it. My draw length is 29 1/2". I like the idea of the 32 being a little faster but am wanting to know with my draw length am I better off going with the 35?
    Winke Responds:
    Ryan, I don't think it will make much difference. In fact, I would be surprised if you would notice any difference at normal bowhunting distances. Some of that stuff is like splitting hairs. It only matters if you are shooting long distances competitively. Either one should work great. Good luck.
  • Randy Rhoads from MI asks:
    I meet you at the Illinois Deer and trukey Expo this past weekend. I discussed My bow set up with you That i shoot fingers and shoot a very heavy arrow 385 grains and fixed blade 125 grain slick trick My bow is a Reflex Caribou 2 46 Inch axle to axle. Also i mentioned my sight set up which is set up for my left eye dominace as i got older and i shoot right handed so i moved my sight way out off the riser to compensate for that. You mentioned that you might write an article about that. I am just letting you know that if you would like more info let me know, I know your time is short at the shows. I will also be at the Ohio show in a couple weeks In the Woodhaven Log booth. Keep up the good work ,, the down to earth style really appeals to me, The dvds that are out there try to put to many kills on and not any thing on the hunt. you explain the hunt and what it takes to get it done. That is hunting thanks for your time Randy
    Winke Responds:
    Randy, I appreciate that and will contact you if the need for more information arises. I also appreciate your support. I will likely be in OH. I have the booth reserved so I know Midwest Whitetail will be there. I will very likely be there too. Take care.
  • Marc from MI asks:
    Bill, I also have a 32"draw.I have a chance to buy an older single cam 2003 Bowtech Stalker.It is set @ 30" draw, 8 1/8 brace height, 33" axle to axle. Seller can replace the module with a 32" mod.Is this what you advise to stay away from in the M/A 09 "Cam Conundrum" article in Peterson's BH? Can anything else i.e. string, cables be changed along with the module to optimize my draw length? Bowhunting to me has never been about the equipment. I just want to hunt. However as I get older(39), as does my bow(11yrs), I feel an upgrade would be more user friendly and maybe my success will start to climb back up. I cannot afford to spend a ton- I have four daughters that I am also getting started in shooting/hunting as well. I'll take your advise as the deciding factor whether I purchase or not. Thanks Bill. I look forward to the future of this website. It's definitely original and unique.
    Winke Responds:
    Marc, I would want to shoot it first with the 32 inch draw module in place to make sure the bow produces good nock travel and good arrow flight at that draw length. If you can't shoot it, don't buy it. That would be my advice. I don't want to buy any bow that I can't shoot first to be sure it produces good arrow flight regardless of manufacturer. Good luck. Bill
  • Brian from PA asks:
    Hey Bill, I have always been a huge fan of the Monster Bucks Video's to get pumped for the up coming deer seasons, but your segments on the realtree website were so awesome and original to watch for preparation of this years hunting season. My question is, I have shot the same bow for the last 4 seasons, following each season I crank the bow weight way down, not to put stress on the limbs during the off season, I was told this helps save your string life, cams, limbs, and not lose arrow speed over the years from stressed equipment, is this necessary to do or just some sort of myth? Thanks, Brian
    Winke Responds:
    Brian, Thanks for your support. I really appreciate it. I would say it is a myth. That may have been important back when they were making limbs out of laminated wood, but now that everyone is using fiberglass I never hear that anymore. Also, I actually worked at a bow company (High Country Archery back in 1990) and we never felt the need to tell people that. We were building solid fiberglass limbs. I have never let any of my bows down and I have one that I have shooting since the 2002 season. It is still my favorite bow. Doesn't seem to have lost even one fps over that time. As long as it is a modern bow, I wouldn't bother. Best of luck to you. Bill
  • Bob from WI asks:
    where can we see your show st? Also thank you for your answer to my other questio. It seems all the outfitters out west figure you have to shoot abow around 65-70lbs I know the more the better but some of us old goats can only pull 45-55 lbs due to age and health problems
    Winke Responds:
    Bob, You can see the show right here on MidwestWhitetail.com. There should be a link to the player right there on the home page. I think it is under the "Latest Show" title. My dad shoots about 55 pounds and he has no problems at all with killing deer. Good luck. Bill
  • Troy from GA asks:
    Hey Bill, Just wanted to say that I am glad you finally got the site going. I have been following your season through realtree.com. I am interested in upgrading to a new bow. I have been shooting a Hoyt Stratus for several years. I would love to stay with Hoyt and get an Alphamax but price is always an issue with new bows. (if you have one that just doesn't suit you you can send it my way). Was curious what you thought of the Katera and if you had any suggestions on where to purchase good reputable used equipment. Any info would be greatly appreciated and PLEASE keep up the good work. I enjoy reading as many of your articles as I can get my hands on. Thanks Troy
    Winke Responds:
    Troy, Thanks for your support. I have seen some very good used bows on Ebay. I wouldn't be too concerned about that if the bow is made by a reputable manufacturer. Also, make sure it looks good in the photo - no signs of abuse. Let me put it this way, you wouldn't want to buy my used stuff. It gets used heavily - and looks it. I love those bows that a bunch of kills to their credit. I always say that if I notched the grip for every deer I have killed with my old Ultra Tec there wouldn't be any wood left. I never mention that it has one of those tiny half grips on it!!! The Katera was a good bow. Most people I talked to liked it a lot. It was heavier than the AlphaMax otherwise was a great bow by comparison. Good luck. Bill
  • Bob from WI asks:
    would my whitetail set up be enough for mule deer? Also what would be a minimum rig for elk such as poundage and weight of arrows etc
    Winke Responds:
    Bob, Yes, a whitetail rig is more than enough for mulies, and probably more than enough for elk. I would probably like to see a minimum or 50 pounds for elk and if I using a low draw weight I could likely use a two-blade cut on impact head that would penetrate very well. Good luck.
  • Jody from WI asks:
    Hi Bill, Love the new website especially the continuing video segments!! I have been shooting single cam bows for a while now and love them never having an issue. The manufacturer I use has now come out with a new line including a cam and a half. What would the benefits and drawbacks be going with a cam and a half versus the single cam? I pull back 74lbs or so and will continue to do so. I have a short draw length so this way I can keep some velocity and a touch more kinetic energy (penetration). Thanks Bill for any insight and keep up the great work!! Jody Whitetail World Pro Staff
    Winke Responds:
    Jody, The biggest difference you will see is that the cam & 1/2 bows can utilize modules very well to adjust draw length without affecting nock travel. That is because you are moving the module on both cams rather than just on one. I had some very bad experiences with modular single-cam bows at my draw length (32 inches) so I stopped using them. The single cams with a specific cam for each draw length are much better in that regard, but then they don't permit any draw length adjustment if you ever want to sell the bow or set it up for someone else. I have shot a cam & 1/2 bow (Hoyt) for many years now and I have never had a tuning issue resulting from stretch or timing issues. I have always been a Hoyt fan so that is the bow I carry and the company I contacted when I needed a sponsor for the show. Best of luck. Bill
  • terry from AL asks:
    wanting to purchase a new bow in the off season not fond with hoyt cause the arm bars on the handle but the new pse dream season i have looked at really fast and lots of kinetic energy but i dont wanna spend that money might buy a forge f2 cause found a deal on one have u ever seen or heard anything about these bows an the new companie very few reviews online an they say good but what cheap fast bow would u recommend im not a pro but like to say that what im aimin for in the future weight is also issue cause i will be mountin a light camera where stabilizer goes to capture kills
    Winke Responds:
    There is nothing wrong with Forge bows. If you can shoot it well, there is no reason not to buy it. However, there are lighter bows, but really a couple of ounces either way won't make any difference. Good Luck. Bill
  • mario from NY asks:
    Bill just wanted to know about the new hoyt alphamax just wanted to know if you needed a bowpress to press the bow.Or its like the bowtech models.Keep up the good work.Thanks again mario
    Winke Responds:
    Mario, It needs a bow press to relax the tension on the string. You can change draw length without a press. Good luck. Bill
  • Matt from WI asks:
    Bill, think you have a good thing going with midwest whitetail. My question is this year I am going with a 60lb draw weight on my bow, down from 70lb. Is 60lb enough to get a pass thru on whitetails that are at 40-50yards? I just think I will be more accurate and consistant at longer range with the lower draw weight. I would be shooting fixed blade heads out of my bow. Thanks.
    Winke Responds:
    Matt, Thanks. You won't have any problem with shooting through them. If you are buying a new bow, get one of the higher energy bows on the market, there are a bunch of them, and shoot an arrow weighing about 360 - 370 grains and you will do great. Good luck. Bill