Arrows
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Justin from KS asks:There are so many arrow options out there, with so many different levels of straightness, how straight is straight enough? I have always just gone for the middle of the road and shot arrows with straightness of +/-.003, are straighter arrows worth the money? Can I get away with +/-.005 arrows? Keep in mind I'm a bowhunter, not a target archer, I practice at 50, 60, and even a bit further, but have never shot a deer over 35 yards. I switch back and forth between fixed and expandable broadheads freely, so I would take it my bow is tuned, do straighter arrows give you any additional cushion if your bow is not perfectly tuned? Thoughts, opinions? Thanks, and love the show!Winke Responds:Justin, I believe you are fine there. If you are shooting long distances often then you will benefit from the straighter arrows. For sure, it will make a difference on long shots (at least a bit of difference). I think the .005 are fine for most bowhunting up to 40 yards. I don't think the straighter arrows will improve arrow flight if the bow is not tuned well. I think they are just more consistent and more accurate at long distances because the force of the string is right down the center of the arrow and not pushing at all to the side as it would with a less straight arrow. I do think that +/- .005 is fine to 40 yards for bowhunting. Good luck. (4-20-12)
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Nockturnal nocks are also good. Did you get a pass-through on the buck you shot on November 9, 2008?James from MN asks:Hi Bill. I read a question about lighted nocks. I too had a problem finding a nock that would consistently light up and that wasn't too heavy. I was just about done trying lighted nocks when I came across NOCKTURNAL lighted nock, for me it has lighted up everytime and it only weighs 18-20 grains. I really like it. Like the other viewer said, it would be nice to see your arrow a little better in flight. It makes for a slightly better video in my opinion. So, if you're in the market for trying lighted nocks again, give that a try. They're really cheap on ebay. Lastly, that buck you shot on Nov 9th, 2008 (the one walking through a gate), did you get a pass through on him? It was so close and the arrow so fast, I couln't really see it. Thanks, and good luck with the foodplots!Winke Responds:James, I have heard good things about that one too, come to think of it. Thanks for the information. The buck I shot that morning was almost straight on. I caught a little flack for that, but I have shot a number of big deer that way over the years. It kills them very fast. However, I shoot a bow and arrows geared for maximum penetration. Not sure I would try it with a draw weight below 70 pounds. I got full pass through on that and the buck only ran about 50 to 60 yards before piling up. The arrow got the jugular and the heart and one lung. Not much you can do to cause more damage than that! Typically on that shot, the arrow gets one lung and the liver. Again a very quickly fatal shot. Good luck to you too. (4-11-12)
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Chris from IN asks:Hey Bill, I have an arrow question: Would you rather have an arrow that is 450 grains with a 12% FOC, or 400 grains with a 15% FOC. Both will be tuned properly for fixed and mechanicals. I am shooting 70 pounds and a 28 incd draw. The arrows are spined .340 and .300 respectively.Winke Responds:Chris, If I was setting that up, I think I would go with the 450 grains. I think the 400 grain arrow will be too light for long-term shooting (too much vibration hitting the bow and accessories with an arrow that light). I don't think that difference is FOC is enough to notice so I wouldn't base the decision on that. Good luck. (4-8-12)
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Rudy from AK asks:A question about arrow weight, but a thank you is needed to you for your video on Scott longhorn hex release with so many releases on the market which one to get, Scott Longhorn hunter is what I purchased for practice and may use for hunting. Arrow weight, what is a lite arrow and what is a heavy arrow, and is there a middle ground for arrow weight? My arrows run between 370 - 410 grain, but around 385 grain. I've been told 385 is too lite, so I called Carbon Express and a person there said that he has always used a 370 grain arrow, help with arrow problem.Winke Responds:Randy, I think a light arrow is one that is roughly 5 grains (finished weight with head) per pound of your draw weight and heavy one is 7 grains per pound or more. Everything in between is... well, middle ground. I like something around 6 grains, possibly a touch less. Good luck. (3-15-12)
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James from FL asks:Bill, thanks for all the info in both your books! The book, Setting Up The Perfect Hunting Bow, has got me ready and pumped about setting up a bow. Wanting to get a Hoyt Carbon this year so hopefully I will be able to put the book to good use. Trying to choose and arrow. Plugged info into eastons site and Axis arrows comes up. They are 9.1 gpi but with my arrow length and broadhead I can't get enough weight to make the formula you use for arrow weight. You said you like 6-6.5 per draw weight pound for finished arrow weight. I seem to only get 5.08 per draw pound. My arrow length is 27"-28" with 100 gr. head. I didn't add in nock, fletch, or wrap weight to my total, but I'm coming 75-100 gr short using the formula. Shooting 70 pounds. Thanks for the great site!Winke Responds:James, Thanks for the purchase. You need to add everything in. You can always step up a shaft size. If you are using a release aid that won't hurt you. I am sure that coming in slightly under 6 grains per pound won't kill you either, so don't worry about cutting it a little under. Just try to stay away from the 5 grains per pound - that will pound your bow and accessories pretty hard as a lot of energy is left in the bow to dissipate after a light arrow leaves the string. Good luck. (3-11-12)
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raymond from OH asks:this will be my first year of bowhunting. and i cant determind what arrows i want to use . i am looking for something in the carbon line... do you have any recomdations.Winke Responds:Raymond, Welcome to bowhunting. That is great news. We have started using the new arrow from Muddy called the BloodSport line. They will have those available to the public soon, if not already. I have been shooting them a lot since about Thanksgiving and they fly very well and durable. I have also shot Easton Axis arrows in the past and they are very good too. Easton has been around for a long time and I think the Axis is the best arrow they have ever made. Good luck and welcome to the great sport. (2-29-12)
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james from OH asks:Hi Winke. I just recently bought a new bow and was told by the dealer that I would pick up more speed if I switched from a 340 easton axis to a 500 easton excel. I took his advice and stopped at a different archery supplier to make the purchase of these arrows. After shooting these arrows I did noticed that I was getting more speed and penetration. However, when I shot the other arrows(340's) I got more accuracy. Are the 340's the reason for this or is it more on me. Also I thought the 340's made the bow shoot quieter.Winke Responds:James, For sure the heavier 340s will make the bow quieter. If the 500 is not stiff enough it could be the reason they are less accurate. It could have been you that day too. You will need to shoot them more to know for sure. No doubt that the lighter arrows are faster, but adding speed just to add speed is not a good idea unless you don't have to give up much to get it. Keep shooting the 500s a bit longer but if you find that they are not shooting better for you, they may be too light and too limber. At that point I think I would sell them to someone with a low draw weight and go back to the 340s. Goo luck. (2-27-12)
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Eric from PA asks:Hi Bill, the question i have for you is will 9.3 gpi arrow penetrate noticeably better than a 8.3 gpi arrow, given they are the same diameter, spine, length?Winke Responds:Eric, A little bit better, but not a big amount. I am not sure it would be noticable under most hunting conditions. The heavier arrow will make the bow a bit quieter too. The lighther arrow will be faster and sometimes that makes a difference in the outcome of a hunt. Not a huge difference between these two arrows. Good luck. (2-10-12)
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Jarrod from IA asks:I just bought a dozen arrows and I have a 27 inch draw. The arrows were cut to 29 inches. Do you think it will be ok? Wish I would have done more research and gotten easton axis those and the rocket steelheads seem like a deadly combination!Winke Responds:Jarrod, I am guessing they will be OK. If you want to cut them shorter you might be able to get in behind the existing insert and still be long enough for your draw, but you will need to get another dozen inserts. It might work or might not depending on how long the inserts are and exactly where you need to cut them to fit correctly (I like to have the arrow overlap the rest by at least 1/2 inch). Good luck. (2-3-12)
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Brent Bushy from MN asks:Hey Bill, I was wondering if you had the opportunity to check out some of the new Easton Arrows and the Deep six inserts and whats your opinion on them.Winke Responds:Brent, I have always felt that small diameter arrows make the most sense. They penetrate better and drift less in a crosswind than larger arrows. In some cases, you may be splitting hairs, but I do think you will notice some difference. Good luck. Happy New Year (12-28-11)
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Allen from PA asks:Merry Christmas to you and your family,Bill. Also, congrats to you and Andrew on your awesome bucks. Good luck to your daughter. My question Bill is. Can arrows wear out from to many shots? My brother gave me some CX max hunter 250's that he used for several seasons. They seemed to still be in good shape.However when i paper tuned my bow i could only get half the arrows to tear nice clean holes.I tried taking the nocks out of the good arrows and inserting them into the bad ones. I checked for clearance(code red drop away).The arrows that tore bad holes would not improve. If it was a clearance issue or cam lean,wouldnt every arrow be bad? I do know that those arrows were shot alot over those years. Im thinking of buying some easton axis for next season. I know you like them.Do they last a long time for you?Winke Responds:Allen, Thanks. Merry Christmas to you too. You bet they can. It is possible they are not straight. That is about all I can think of in this case. Otherwise, you have done a good job of troubleshooting. I have had great luck with the Easton Axis arrows. Muddy has some arrows coming out and I am working with Larry to test those. They show good promise too. For sure, carbon arrows can become damaged changing the way they flex and that will affect arrow flight. I am guessing that a dozen fresh arrows will do a better job for you. Good luck. Merry Christmas. (12-23-11)
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Randy from PA asks:I received some arrows as a gift. They are approx. 1-2 inches longer than my current arrows. Do you think this length difference affects accuracy/performance/penetration significantly? From 10-30 yrds. I did not really see much difference, at 40 yards the longer arrows did hit a touch low, but 40 yards is a shot I don't take. Love the website. It is an exciting time of year!!!---rcsWinke Responds:Randy, As long as they are stiff enough, the extra length won't affect your accuracy or penetration. They would be faster if you cut them down, but not a lot faster. I would just move the 40 yard pin down a touch and you are right in there again. Good luck to you too. (10-26-11)
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Jared from PA asks:Hello Mr. Winke, I am a big fan, have seen all your episodes and read most of your literature. I lost my first big buck this year and at the young age of 22 I am still troubled by it. I am shooting a Hoyt Maxxis 31 at 68lbs. I shoot gold tip arrows (55/75) and grim reaper 1 3/4" heads at 100 grains. I know for a fact that shot placement cost me this big deer, but was considering some other broadhead and arrow choices. I would like to get some more kinetic energy. Any arrow recommendations? Also, what are the benefits of switching to a 125 grain head vs. a 100 grain head? Thanks so much, JaredWinke Responds:Jared, You won't see much difference between the 100 grain and the 125 grain. It all adds up, but just adding 25 grains to the tip of the arrow won't make much overall difference. I like small diameter arrows because my testing shows that they penetrate better, so I use the Full Metal Jacket or the Axis N-Fused from Easton. They are very small in diameter and have a good weight to them for added kinetic energy. The FMJ is the one to go with if you are serious about penetration. Then adding the 125 grain head will simply be icing on the cake. Good luck.
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phil from IL asks:bill- really enjoy your show - read your articles all the time - im fletching some arrows up and running out of vanes that i have always used [easton diamond vanes 3.80]with some helical or off set- use easton axis 340 length is 29 5/8 - 125 steelhead- been debating on the 2" vanes blazer - quickspin st or easton 280 my drop away is trophy taker extreme fc- will i have clearence problems- i believe the 2" vanes may be a lil more higher profile- i dont know-what is your advice will any of these vanes work i was curious in one of your segmants if you could talk about the hunting arrow components and such if u build your own- advice i guess- what you like in an arrow. thanks again for any adviseWinke Responds:Phil, I think you will still get through fine. I think I may go back to the longer fletchings this year just for fun. 3.8 inchers. I have shot the super short ones and they did fine, but I still think the arrows with the longer fletchings are more stable. from what I am seeing in my own shooting. To each his own, but there is nothing wrong with what you are shooting right now. A great setup. We will take a look at a build-your-own arrow piece maybe in the off-season, possibly yet this fall but I hope we have plenty of kills coming in soon - been slow so far this October! Good luck.
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Why do the deer spook when they are close to my stand? How do you get helical or straight fletching?mohammad ali from MI asks:hey bill,why is it when im about 10 yards from a deer, then it spooks out but what usually is supposed to happen is when i enter the woods they spook out because of their great sense of hearing and smelling, so why is that? and second thing what is straight fletching and helical fletching,because i only have regular plastic vanes?Winke Responds:Mohammad, As they get close they are hearing you, smelling you on stand or smelling where you walked. You have to manage all those things to keep the deer from knowing you are near. Vanes are not directional. The clamp used to install them on the arrow is where the direction (helical) or lack of direction (straight) comes in. When building the arrows, that is when you can determine if the arrow will spin (helical - this is preferred) or not (straight). Good luck.
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Pat from TX asks:I've experimented with all different types, shapes, sizes and heights of vanes. I've experimented with helical vs. non-helical. What is your preference when it comes to fletching options? Good luck this fall and keep up the great work on the website and the show.Winke Responds:Pat, I definitely like a helical fletching. Length doessn't seem to be as big a factor as height and stiffness. That is why shorter, stiffer vanes are so popular now. I shoot three inch and four inch vanes in helical. I have shot straight fletching with broadheads and it is a bad deal - avoid it. You need the arrow to spin. Good luck and thanks for your support.
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mohammad ali from MI asks:hey bill, im sure you remember me,the kid who would ask too many question, just kidding. Anyways i bought a couple arrows from the range shop and they're 4560 but they're are different from my regular arrows because these arrows are 4 incehs long from the arrow rest, so do you think i should cut them or should i keep them? P.s: i heard that the arrow should extend about 1-2 in. from the arrow rest.Winke Responds:Mohammad Ali, I remember you. I still have writer's cramp from answering all your questions! No it is fine. I would cut them to fit. That stiffens them too (making them shorter) and it is always better when shooting a release aid to have arrows that are too stiff rather than too limber. My arrows extend about 1/2 inch past the arrow rest. That is enough. Good luck.
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Blake from SD asks:Bill, Loved the new brassica show! I was wondering if you have had any trouble with your fletchings holding on the axis shafts. I, like you, fletch straight on to the shaft without a dip or wrap. I have had to refletch every arrow of mine this year, and some twice. Have you had this problem as well? What glue do you use for your fletchings? I am using blazer 2" vanes and a whisker biscuit rest. I know the biscuit will cause this more often than not, but haven't had the problem with my other shafts. Thanks!Winke Responds:Blake, You probably have to use a solvent like fingernail polish remover or denatured alcohol to clean both the shaft and the fletching. I have been using the NAP QuikSpin and they will adhere without any pre-treatment. Try the solvent and see if that helps. Also, consider calling the customer service at Bohning (maker of the Blazers) to see what they recommend. Good luck.
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Colin from FL asks:Hey bill, my names colin ive been watching the show since it came out for the most part. im 15 and you really got me into bow hunting. i bought a pse bowmadness xs, i shoot 65 pounds at a 26 inch draw. what weight arrow should i use, and what kind and size of broadhead?Winke Responds:Colin, I am excited that you have taken up bowhunting. It is an awesome sport. I have loved it since I was your age. The fire has never gone out, or even flickered. I would shoot something in the 375 to 390 grain range. That is total arrow weight. 65 pounds is enough draw weight that you can shoot pretty much whatever broadhead you want. I have used Rocket Steelheads for 14 years, so you know where my loyalties lie. However, there are also other good heads. It is hard to recommend broadheads because you never know where you are going to hit them. I like conservative sized heads like the Steelhead (1 1/4 inch cutting diameter). Good luck.
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chad from SC asks:I am currently shooting Beamon ICS hunters 8.4 gpi that are 26 inches in lenghth with 100 grain Muzzy's.I am shooting 65-67 lbs from my Switchback XT.I am intersted in the Axis arrows.Should I go heavier on arrow weight.I am also thinking of lowering my draw weight for comfort reason.What are your thoughts on a heavier arrow for my setup?Winke Responds:Chad, I would probably go just a touch heavier, but you aren't in too bad of shape on your current setup. For whitetails, I just like an arrow that is pushing 6 grains per pound of maximum draw weight and you are just under that at 65 pounds (assuming 50 grains for fletching, insert and nock). You are in the ballpark, but if you are going to change weight, just a touch more would be fine.
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Ron Dravis from IL asks:Hey Bill, Congrats on the new show! I have a few questions. I just bought a bow and don't know what arrows to purchase. I have shot a couple of my friends' arrows, one carbon and the other alloy, But I have no clue of what the arrow should weigh for my 65 pound draw weight etc... Also, I currently only have access to public land here in IL, and the places I hunt people seem to not respect that other people hunt there. They talk on their phones in the woods, walk around after an hour or so of not seeing anything, etc. How can I maximize my chances of getting my first bow kill? Any strategies for attacking public land you don't know? Keep up the good work! Thanks for the help. Love the new show & the website.Winke Responds:Ron, The key to public land hunting is to find the areas that others are avoiding. Get a topo map and aerial photo of the area to study. Most people will hunt the obvious spots. You have to go deeper or find the areas that are hard to get to because of rivers, lakes, etc. Also, look for very small public areas. Some of these can be very good because other bowhunters overlook them because they are so small. I like the N-Fused Easton shaft. That is what I have shot for the past couple of seasons. They are a good weight for most types of bowhunting. At 65 pounds you are probably looking at the size 340 shaft. Good luck this fall.
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Chris from OK asks:Bill, I have been following the show for 3 years now. I absolutely love the show. I was just curious where Ryan Fischer got his sweet orange arrow wraps? Thanks for the help and keep up the good work.Winke Responds:Chris, Ryan said he bought them off e-bay from someone who was making them custom. They were not from an archery manufacturer. Your best best is to look up arrow wraps or arrow cresting on e-bay and see if the guy is still selling them. Good luck.
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Brian from ME asks:Bill, I've been considering fletching my own arrows and going with a helical fletching. Do you shoot helical fletching? Why or why not?Winke Responds:Brian, I do shoot helical. You need to spin the arrow to make fly well with a broadhead. Really, you need to spin it to make it fly well with a field point too. The QuikSpin vanes from NAP don't require helical to spin, but all others required you to apply helical offset. I use right helical. With most fletchings, I apply as much helical as I can apply to the arrows and still get good contact between vane and arrow (the curve of the arrow's outer diameter dictates this maximum angle). Good luck.
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Will 2 inch Blazers stabilize arrows carrying Muzzy heads? What is the best jig for building arrows?Dan from PA asks:I'm starting to shoot muzzy 3 blade broadheads again. My arrows are currently fletched with Blazer 2" vanes. Will they still work with fixed blade broadheads? I'm going to start building my own arrows also and would like to use the most aggressive helical possible. Which jig would work best for gold tip expedition hunter arrows?Winke Responds:Dan, The Blazers do a great job, but you will need to pay great attention to tuning your bow and to producing perfect arrows if you are going to shoot fixed-blade heads (any brand) accurately from a fast bow. I realize it is a bit more expensive, but the Bitzenberger jig is very good. Right helical clamp is pretty standard. I use an old Martin jig with a Bitzenberger right helical clamp. It works fine too. Both are adjustable for offset angle (degree of helical). I would also look in the Bohning line. They make good, affordable fletching tools, as well. Good luck.
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Kaleb from MI asks:By mistake I cut one of my arrows an inch or so shorter than the other one and I was wondering if I could have the same results with two different length arrows? Also my friend was shooting the easton carbon storm arrows and wanted to try out the easton axis full metal jacket and was wondering if he would have to resight his bow for the new arrows? Thanks and keep up the great work on the web site really injoy the show.Winke Responds:Kaleb, One inch difference won't make a huge difference in weight or impact point on the target. As long as you aren't pulling the arrow into the rest, you are fine with two length arrows at normal bowhunting distances. Past 40 yards you wil start to see a very small difference (with the shorter arrow hitting higher). Without a doubt, I would expect that your friend will have to re-sight his bow with the new arrows. Good luck.
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Alex from IN asks:Mr. Winke, I would like to say thank you for the shows, they are awesome! I haven't missed one yet. Now to my question. I'm a 16 year old bowhunter and am just now getting serious about it. This is my setup. Hoyt Maxxis 31, set at 60 pounds and 29 in draw. QAD rest and Carbon Express Mutiny 250 arrows, and Meet Seeker 2 in broadheads. If I did my math right I have a 375 grain arrow which puts me at 5.9 grains per pounds of draw weight. Do you think that this is too light? If so what should I do to change it? None of my shots will be past 40 yards. Thanks for your time! I love the shows and all of your articles!Winke Responds:Alex, Thanks for your support. I remember when I was your age getting serious about bowhunting. I had a Bear Whitetail Hunter bow that I soon replaced with a big-gripped wooden riser Browning Safari bow, a stick-on Bear Weather Rest and Easton Gamegetter 1918 arrows with Savora Super S broadheads. Man, how things have changed. You have a great setup. I think the arrow weight is just fine. I wouldn't change a thing. Good luck this fall.
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Evan from IL asks:Hi Bill, I was wondering what your thoughts are on arrows. I've been hunting for quite a few years now and each year i get a few more arrows. I now have 2 different kinds with 3 different kinds of fletches. I have a lot of arrows that were 40 dollars for a half dozen. Some lost their fletches so i got some of those kind that you just boil on. i also have some arrows that i bought when i got my mathews z7. they were 70 dollars for a half dozen. when shooting target, the three different kinds all shoot differently. the best ground around the center i get is with the original fletches on the 40 dollar arrows. i was thinking of buying some maxima 350 arrows for my z7 that i shoot at 65 pounds. the maxima are like 80 bucks for a half dozen. very expensive but ive heard good things about them. i was just wondering what you look at when you go to buy your arrows. thanks -evan-Winke Responds:Evan, I have tried many styles. My personal preference is toward small diameter arrows because I have seen the tests that show that these arrows penetrate better than larger diameter arrows. These smaller diamter arrows also drift less offline in a crosswind. I couple them with medium to small sized fletchings (right now I am using the NAP Speed Hunter). There four-inch vane would be my choice if I was using fixed-blade heads. So the quest for small diameter shafts brings me to the Easton Axis line. I have shot all of the Axis shafts, including the FMJ, and am currently using the N-Fused Axis. There are many options in arrows, I never try to tell people that my approach is the only one, or even the best for everyone. What I use just makes the most sense to me. The Axis N-Fused is just where my journey has taken me. Good luck.
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Ted from MO asks:Bill: I shoot Drenalin at 60 lbs with Carbon Express Maxima 250s, 100 inch broadheads. Is this enough arrow for hunting Missouri whitetails? 27 inch draw. TedWinke Responds:Ted, You won't have any problem with that setup. No, you probably won't be able to shoot through the shoulder blade, but with any soft tissue hit, you will have no problem getting enough penetration to kill a big, mature whitetail buck. Good luck.
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Kevin from IN asks:Hey Bill! Love the show. I was wondering what materials you use when you prep and fletch your arrows. I am a diy kind of guy and enjoy fletching my own arrows but I am having problems with getting my vanes to stay glued to my arrow shafts. Thanks for your your time and keep the great videos coming.Winke Responds:Kevin, Each vane is different. The best solution is to call the customer service people at the company making the vanes you like. When I use Easton vanes (made by AAE, I think) and NAP vanes and neither requires that I prep the shaft or vanes. However, when I use Blazers I have to make sure to clean them off very carefully with a denatured alcohol (drug stores and usually grocery stores carry this). They may even have a better prep for use with those vanes so, as I said, it is better to ask them directly. I agree, without the right prep, some vanes just fall right off.
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Dan from MN asks:I'm fletching up some new arrows and I was wondering what color vanes you would use to have them stand out/easy to find after being shot. What are your opinions on arrow crests?Winke Responds:Dan, I think with the narrow cross-section of today's vanes, it is hard to see them in flight. The color of the nock is about as important as anything. I like to use a bright yellow/green nock with white and yellow fletchings. I think cresting is cool and personalizes the arrows, but if the bow is tuned, you won't see the arrow cresting during the flight of the arrow. However, cresting will help you to find the arrow if you shoot through the deer or miss. Good luck.
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Jordan from IN asks:Mr. WInke, Just wondering what you thought about the NAP quick fletcing and how they shoot?Winke Responds:Jordan, I use their QuikSpin vanes but I have not tried the shinkfit fletching system they sell. I like glueing right to the shaft. I have had very good durability this way. I have heard from a few of the pro staff that they don't hold up as well to shooting through a Whisker Biscuit as fletchings glued to the shaft. I don't have that level of experience myself, but that is what I have heard. Good luck.
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Trevor from ID asks:With my wife now starting to hunt with me and young kids that are sometimes more excited than me to get started "soon" I am wondering if it is any cheaper to make your own arrows from the shaft up versus just watching for the deals here and there as they pop up. I am not wanting to be flinging junk at the deer but am wondering what your thoughts are and if so, what type of Jig etc. would you recommend (AZ E-Z Fletch, Bitzenberger etc.) Thanks for any info in advance.Winke Responds:Trevor, I don't think it is much cheaper, but I always make my own because I can control all the variables and customize the arrows to be just what I want. I feel that I can make better arrows than the mass produced arrows and that is the main reason I build them. They may be a bit cheaper, but by the time buy the jig and a few other accessories, you would have to be making several dozen arrows to make it pay off. I would go with a good Bitzenberger myself. The jig is the key to the arrow and you want one that indexes very precisely as you go from one fletch to the next. Right helical is the best clamp to get. Good luck.
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Ron Meverden from IL asks:Bill, I would like start off by saying I love MidwestWhitetail.com & the TV Show on the Sportsmans Channel.My question is on arrow weight.I shoot the MAXXIS set at 65# with a 28" draw.What total arrow weight do you like? Thank you, Ron.Winke Responds:Ron, Thanks for your support. I would say anything from about 360 to 425 grains. Something in the 400 grain range would be about ideal. Good luck.
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Russell from KS asks:I have been shooting Easton Axis arrows for a couple of years with 2" Blazer vanes. Recently I bought some Mullen low profile 4" Macro vanes that the bowshop in Topeka recommended. I fletched and compared and seem to have a much truer and more accurate flight with these Mullen vanes. Have you experienced similar results? I know that I have read articles on mags on better results and I believe it now. BTW, thanks for having such a great website. I enjoy the videos and info here. RussWinke Responds:Russ, I have not tried them, but I definitely will. I have used the short NAP QuickSpins and been impressed with those, but I will try the Mullen vanes. Doing a web search, I see a number of outlets selling them, but I don't see a website for Mullen themselves. Thanks for the tip and for supporting the site. Good luck.
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josh from IN asks:Bill first i want to thank you for the time. my question is i shoot a 09 diamond iceman. its a quiet, quick, and accurate bow. i shoot goldtip 5575 xt hunter arrows. the problem is i break a lot of nocks probly a dozen in the last 2 months. i think its either maybe something to do with the mechanics of the bow {which i kinda doubt} or just goldtip nocks are crap. has this ever happened to you? and any kind of input would be terrific... i'm stumpedWinke Responds:Josh, I seriously doubt it is the bow. I don't know of anything in the bow (other than a string that is way too big in diameter) that would break nockes. I have not seen this before, but I have not shot Gold Tips much. I am pretty sure that Easton's (or other brand) nocks are interchangable with most carbon arrows. I would experiment a bit to see if that is the case. Take an arrow to the archery shop and try nocks until you find the right size. Plus, it is always a good idea to change out your nocks before each season anyway because damnaged and bent nocks will hurt your accuracy. Good luck.
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Paul from IN asks:Hey Bill, Noticed a question posted by Jason recently from Kansas about your favorite arrows. In your answer you mentioned shorter vanes like the quick spins. I thought I noticed you switched vanes from some recent video..last year I asked a question about vanes and at that time you preferred the longer vain as indicated by your post back then. What have you learned that made you switch? I am due to refletch some arrows soon so I am curious. Thanks Bill I appreciate your insight and knowledge. God Bless. PaulWinke Responds:Paul, I have switched to short QuikSpins this year. I talked to a number of people and did some testing and I am convinced that there is no drop off in stability with my mechanical heads using the smaller vanes. On the upside, being smaller they don't present as much surface area as a larger vane so they don't drift as much in a crosswind. That is part of the reason why I like small diameter arrows too. If I was using fixed-blade broadheads, I am not sure if I would have made the switch. It would take more experimenting before I could say for sure on that. Fixed-blade heads have a greater chance for wind-planing so they require more stability if the arrow starts to turn a little bit. Thus the need for larger fletching.
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Jason from KS asks:Dear bill, i am In need of some new arrows and would like to hear a professional opinion. I was wondering what brand fits your preference and what type of inserts and fletching you use? Thanks for the help, Jason.Winke Responds:Jason, I have long been a fan of Easton products. I have been to their plant in Salt Lake City and seen the arrows being made. That was very impressive. I like small diameter arrows now, so I have focused on the Axis models from Easton and the Crush model from Trophy Ridge. I like the shorter fletching that is popular now. In other words, Blazers and the short QuikSpins are my preference. Combined with a mechanical head (shooting Rocket Steelheads this year) they are very accurate and penetrate very well.
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Russ from MI asks:Hi Bill, you are my favorite outdoor/hunting writer, keep up the good work! I shoot a 70# bow with 29 in. arrows & 125 grain Wasp Jak-hammer broadhead. I currently shoot Easton XX78 2413 But was thinking of going to Easton Full metal Jackets. According Easton's arrow shaft selection chart I could shoot 300 or 340(If I go to a 100 grain head), what do you recommend? All my shots are under 35 yards. Thanks, RussWinke Responds:Russ, Thanks for your support. You are my favorite Russ from Michigan. I don't think you can go wrong wtih either choice, but since you won't be shooting far, I would probably lean toward the heavier 300. That will make your bow a bit quieter and will soak up a bit more energy for more penetration on impact. Again, you can't go wrong with either one. Good luck this season.
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Paul from TX asks:Bill, I need help to see if my arrow is too light. I'm shooting a Beman ICS Hunter Elite @ 8.4 gpi, 100 grain broadhead, 4 inch vanes. The arrow is 27 inches long and I am pulling 64lbs. Is this too light? If so, would it would be better to move to a 125 grain head or move to a heavier arrow. Thanks for your help and love the shows. Thanks, PaulWinke Responds:Paul, If you add everything up, you get 326 without the vanes, nock or insert. If we assume roughly 10 grains each for the insert and nock and about 25 grains for the fletching that will get us in the ballpark. So the total finished arrow weight is roughly 375 grains. Divide that by 64 pounds and you get 5.9 grains per pound of draw force. I don't think that is too light. I normally like to see arrows in the 6.5 grains per pound range, but since you are hunting TX I assume you are taking a few long shots here and there. I have hunted TX several times and had a number of shots around 40 yards in the more open terrain you encounter there. So, having a slightly lighter arrow (faster) - as you do - is a good thing. It will flatten trajectory somewhat to compensate for small errors in range. Also, having a bit more speed will help to reduce the distance those jumpy deer can drop at the sound of the shot. You will still have to aim well low on alert deer, but the arrow speed will help to reduce the distance they can drop by the time the arrow gets there. I have never yet shot a bow so quiet that a TX deer didn't react to the shot.
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Allen from PA asks:Hi,Bill.I have a question about FOC. I just set up some carbon express maxima hunters 250s using 3 of the 2 inch blazer veins which weigh approx. 6 grains a piece and an arrow wrap which weighs 14 grains. My arrows are 27 3/16" long from the face of the insert to the inside of the nock where it touches the string. My balance point from the nock is 16 3/8". If I figured right my FOC is 10.23% which I believe is on the small side for fixed blades. I'm using slick trick 100 grain magnums and shooting around 260 fps. Would you please double check my FOC and tell me whether you think it's too low and what if anything I should do to correct it? My nocks weigh 13 grains. Do you think I should go to a lighter nock and what would you recommend? Thanks, Bill, I appreciate your input. Looking forward to the fall shows. AllenWinke Responds:Allen, I appreciate your support. Looks like your calculations are correct. Actually, according to Easton's technical folks, 9% to 12% FOC is about ideal for most hunting and anything up to about 13 is fine. So you are right in the proper range with your balance point. I wouldn't change a thing.
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Ahmed from MI asks:what is a shaft?Winke Responds:It is the base part of the arrow, the part you attach all the components to.
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Ron from MO asks:Bill, Do you use the same arrows you practice with to hunt with. Great web site, Thanks for your timeWinke Responds:Ron, Yes, I do, but I usually replace the nocks to make sure they are straight. Nocks can take some abuse from practicing where arrows hit other arrows in the target. Every time you practice you should study your shafts too. If they become damaged at all, throw them away immediately.
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ian from WI asks:I have looked thru old questions to see if anyone has asked this but cudnt find it i bet ur busy with alot of repeat questions ive noticed so i didnt want to hassel you again with a repeat. Anyways are there any disadvantages to arrow wraps any advantages besides increased visability during shot and finding arrow looking to do some custom arrow work for 3D league and my hunting shafts so i came to you thanks again ur the best hunting resource i have! And cnat wait for more shed vids and turkey hunting.Winke Responds:Ian, I have tried them on and off and there is no disadvantage that I can see. There is some risk that the wrap will tear off the shaft at the base of the fletching more easily than a fletching applied straight to the shaft, but either way, it takes a lot of abuse without failing. I wouldn't hesitate to use them.
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David from OH asks:A response to Kevin from MN. i have found that if you put a little bit of bow string wax on the threads of the field tip it will help that problem. also you can put it on your broadheads it will keep them from rusting and being a pain to get off. hope this helpsWinke Responds:David, Good tip, thanks. Kevin was concerned about his field points loosening when shooting at targets. We appreciate the tips.
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James from VT asks:Hi Bill, Thanks for all your advice so far to a first time bow hunter. I picked up my new bow Monday and ended up getting the Hoyt Alphamax 32 after shooting half the stuff in the store. Got the AM for almost the same price as the Turbohawk so I couldn't go wrong. Side note... anyone looking for a great bow at a great price should try the Quest line from G5 in my opinion. Anyway, what's your thoughts on the really high end arrows like the A/C/C Pro Hunting series. Worth the money? thanks again, jamesWinke Responds:James, Congrats on the new bow. I am sure you will like it. I am not a big fan of high end arrows for a new bowhunter or even a casual bowhunter. I have used them but I get them for free. the hardcore guys may see some advantages to the super straight shafts that result from carbon and aluminum bonded, but for most everyone else, there is no measurable difference. I can get the ACCs but I use the N-Fused Axis from Easton right now. They are plenty straight enough for everything I do. I would not pay up for arrows at this point if I were you. Stick with name brand shafts, but don't go for their top offerings. Straightness of +/- .005 is plenty good enough until you get really good with a bow.
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Kevin from MN asks:Bill ... Love your website and all your great advice / can't wait for the next season to get going. Here's a problem that drives me nuts. My practice arrow points are constantly loosening--almost after every shot. I imagine its caused by the spin of the arrow in the opposite direction of the threaded points. Any ideas short of re-fletching my arrows so the helical direction of the vanes on the arrow tightens instead of loosens the points ... or will this eventually cause the points to be tightened beyond what a person can turn off by hand? How about a spot of glue on the threads, locktite, or even teflon tape. What works best? Thanks. ... KevinWinke Responds:Kevin, I hear you. I just tighten mine after every shot. I guess I never really think about it. It just part of my shooting routine. LocTite would be the best option, I would assume. Refletching with left helical would likely work but then you have to buy a new clamp. It is an interesting question that I have never gotten before. Let us know what you learn.
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Alex from OH asks:First off I'd like to say thanks for the advice about the bow you told me about. But now I'm wondering what arrows i should be shooting.My draw weight is at 60 and i have a 27 inch draw length.I am really looking for something with some speed and good penatration and I was wondering what you might suggest for arrows? ThanksWinke Responds:Alex, I like the small diameter arrows from companies like Easton and Trophy Ridge. I have seen independent testing where these penetrate better than larger diameter shafts. In those categories you have the Crush from Trophy Ridge and the N-Fused Axis from Easton. Both are definitely worth a try. They are not going to be the lightest shafts out there, but when properly spined for your draw weight and draw length, they will be a very good choice for whitetail hunting.
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Zach from AL asks:Hello Bill! Love the show! Even out here in eastern NC! Two questions for you. #1 You suggest a arrow weight of 6-7 grains per pound of peak draw. Does this mean max poundage of the bow or what the actual poundage is? For example my bow is set at 65 lbs but max poundage is 70 lbs. Which figure do I use? #2 I will be hunting in West central Il. this year from Oct. 25-29. The farm we will hunt is mostly wooded surrounded by crop and crp fields. How should i focus my efforts setting up stands during that time of year? And is that too early in the pre-rut to try grunting and rattling....do you even recommend this type calling? I appreciate you time, and I highly respect your opinion! thanks again ZachWinke Responds:Zach, Thanks for watching and for supporting the show. I appreciate it. That grain weight standard applies to the actual weight you have your bow set for. So if the maximum weight of your draw is 65 pounds as measured on a scale, I am refering to that number - 65 pounds. That is not too early to call. It will work fine then. Maybe not quite as well as a week later, but still good enough to be worth doing. I would focus on bedding areas for morning hunts and feeding areas for evening hunts. There won't be a lot of cruising as there will be a week later, but the bucks will start to get on their feet a bit more and will be a bit more vulnerable near the places where they normally spend their time - bedding and feeding. Feeding is pretty obvious, the trails and rubs will tell you that. Bedding is a bit tougher. Look for ridges where they will lay up. Really, almost any kind of raised terrain feature in the timber will be a bedding aera. It would be good to get at least some kind of scouting trip in ahead of time (or study aerial photos) so you are not going in totally blind. Good luck.
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Brent from AL asks:Hey Bill another archery question here because of your great expertise in this area. Have you had a chance to shoot the new Trophy Ridge arrows, either the Crush, Blast, Hailfire, or wrath? What do you think of their insert design? also what are all the benefits of shooting a 125 grain broadhead? What situations would they be best? Thanks Again, BrentWinke Responds:Brent, Yes, I tried the Crush some last season. I think they are good arrows. I like small diameter arrows. They make a lot of sense to improve penetration, reduce wind drift on a cross wind. Broadhead weight should be geared to balance your arrows more than anything. An easy, fairly accurate, rule of thumb is to select a broadhead weight that is roughly 1/3 of the weight of your finished shaft without the broadhead installed. For example, if your arrow weighs 300 grains with fletching and insert, you need a 100 grain head to balance it fairly well. You want the balance point to be just forward of the center of the arrow (about 10% of the arrow's length forward of center). You can achieve this reasonably accurately by sticking with that simple rule of thumb.
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James from ME asks:Bill- I am in the process of picking out new arrows for next season. Right now I shot the Beman ICS Hunter (8.4 gpi). Is this a good arrow? What else would you suggest? I would like something lighter to increase arrow speed but I am not sure if the Beman is light enough or if I can go with something else. Just curious about your thoughts on a good light arrow for both speed and hunting. Thanks a lot.Winke Responds:James, I always recommend a finished arrow weighing from 6 to 7 grains per pound of maximum draw weight. If you shoot 60 pounds, that means the ideal arrow will be around 375 to 400 grains. If you use a 100 grain broadhead, inserts and fletching (another 35 grains), that means the shaft should weigh about 240 grains. If your arrow length is 27 inches, the grain per inch is about 8.8, so actually, I would not go lighter than you are already shooting unless you are shooting a lower draw weight. If you just run the numbers using your actual draw weight and arrow length, you should hit close to the right arrow weight and that will help you select the correct model. However, on the surface, I would say you are about right with the shaft you are using.
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Raymond from NC asks:I had a question on arrw weight. I dont shoot but 55 pound because of a bad shoulder and my draw length is 28 inches what size arrows should I shoot? grain and length? for hunting white tail deer.Winke Responds:Raymond, I would stick with something in the 350 to 375 grain size (total arrow weight with broadhead installed). That means you are probably looking at a shaft that weighs 8.25 to 8.5 grains per inch (a relatively light carbon shaft). Also look for an 80 to 100 grain broadhead and you should be set. Standard fletching 2 1/2 to 4 inches long will balance it out fine. There are a number of shafts on the market that fall into this range. I won't state a prefernce since a number of them are very good. I would go with an arrow that is roughly 1/2 inch longer than the distance from the string to the front of the rest. Draw an arrow and have someone carefully mark the shaft and then you can measure it. Good luck.
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Ron H Jr. from WI asks:Hey there Bill, hope all your holiday shopping is going good! I got some new Easton Flatline arrows for Christmas this year and a guy down at the archery shop was telling me not to use them for my winter archery league, and he was telling me this right in front of my girlfriend who bought them for me. Now she's thinking she picked out bad arrows and is kinda bummed out about it. I told her they will be perfect, but she thinks the idiot at the shop knows more than I do. lol I didn't want to argue with him when he said it wouldn't be a good idea, but im going to use them anyways. I just dont know why he would tell me that. What do you think Bill? So i can show the little lady here that she did good. Thanks alot.Winke Responds:Ron, I can't imagine why those arrows wouldn't be good for the league. Really, they aren't any less accurate at reasonable bowhunting distances (or indoor range distances) than the high-dollar fancy arrows. Yes the straightness tolerances probably aren't as high, but it is not like you will be shooting 100 yards. I say shoot them and be proud of them. They are good arrows. Good luck.
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Kevin from GA asks:First of all I love your web site it is very imformative and entertaining. My question is what are the advantages of 2" vanes over 4" vanes. Thanks and look forward to seeing you take The Great EightWinke Responds:Kevin, Thanks. I look forward to seeing me take the Great 8 too. Unfortunately,the winds have been so bad this year with all the SE and E winds that I have not be able to hunt there much. I think the 2 inchers are fine for most situations. I like the ones with stiff plastic and a high profile like the Blazers. I also like the QuikSpins from NAP. I shoot 4 inchers (QuikSpins) because I feel they are bit more stable. I am probably just being overly conservative. When shooting in windy conditions, you definitely want the shorter ones to cut down on wind drift with a cross wind. If your bow is tuned well, the 2 inchers will work fine. If not, stick with the 4 inchers.
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Brian from WI asks:Bill, Please don't take offense to this but my wife now refers to your website as my "porn" site, yes I'm a MWoholic. Anyway, when it comes to arrow weight how many grains/lb of pull do you recommend shooting? I've seen people all over the board on this, just trying to find that right mix. Also, love the Muddy Harness, I've used and tried just about all the others and this one blows them away.Winke Responds:Brian, That is funny. I like 6 to 7 grains per pound for deer hunting. So if you shoot 60 pounds, the minimum arrow weight would be 360 grains (complete arrow with broadhead). I shoot about right in the middle of that range - 6 1/2 grains per pound. This compromise weight will produce good speed, but will make your bow a bit quieter and will reduce vibration damage to the bow while soaking up a bit more energy from the bow, as well. The Muddy harnesses are really nice. Thanks for your support.
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Josh from NC asks:Hey Bill, I am trying to determine which size Easton Flatline arrows to purchase. I shoot a Hoyt Katera XL with 31" draw set at 71lbs. I use 100 grain points. I have asked on some other online blogs and I have been told the 340's would work and the 400's would work. I was just curious about your opinion. No one has responded from Easton yet so I figured I would ask you. Thanks for any info! P.S.I get more and more excited about each week's episodes this time of the year. Good luck and keep up the good work!Winke Responds:Josh, I would shoot the 340s. I am a big fan of going a bit stiffer and heavier especially when shooting a release aid - which I assume you are using. They are plenty light enough to get good speed but heavy enough to quiet your bow and penetrate well.
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Josh from IA asks:If my arrows are cut a little under a quarter inch too long am I going to see a big difference in the way I shoot to the point I don't want to waste my time shooting them? I asked when it happened and was told it would be okay and even though I wasn't happy I took the guys word. Mistake or not?Winke Responds:Josh, That won't make a bit of difference. I doubt you would even notice if they were an inch too long. No worries. Good luck.
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Aaron from TN asks:I have a friend that purchased new arrows and got them cut too short. It was pretty dumb, but I want to help him since I got him into hunting. Other than buying new arrows, do you know of any screw on 1/2" inch or 1/4" arrow lengthening devices? Also he shoots a whisker bisket if that helps at all.Winke Responds:Aaron, The tolerances have to be so perfect that it would not be a good idea to use any kind of arrow extender. I don't know of any on the market anyway. You have two options, use a rest that extends back farther or trade to the pro shop (or a different bowhunter) for longer ones. Good luck.
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jack from OH asks:I am a avaid bowhunter,and a bit old school.I shoot a mathews legacey with a seventy pound draw weight.I still shoot a 2413 aluminum arrow for penitration.Im told I am silly.So I ask am I silly? Should I shoot a carbon arrow.If so what style and brand.I am a big fan and value your opinon.I have exsperenced a lot throught your articles.Thank you for your time sir,good hunting to you and shootem stright!!!Winke Responds:Jack, I appreciate the supports. Thanks. If you are looking for penetration, it is very hard to beat the Full Metal Jacket or N-Fused Axis arrows from Easton. They are smaller in diameter which contributes to better penetration, but they are still pretty heavy and will weigh roughly in line with the 2413s. I used to shoot 2413 and 2514s myself but I would never go back to them now after shooting carbons for several years. Another good penetrating arrow is the new one from Trophy Ridge (Bear Archery). It is very small in diameter but has enough weight to really punch through a shoulder blade.
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paul from IN asks:Hey Bill its me pastor paul. What are your thoughts on 2" versus 4" vanes. I have always used bigger vaines but just curious on your thoughts. Love the show! God Bless pwWinke Responds:Paul, I use the four inchers. I ran some non-scientific testing here with my own groups and it seemed like I was getting less flyers with the longer fletching. The other thing I noticed occassionally, was the fact that some arrows didn't seem to spin consistently with the short vanes. On longer shots I can usually see if they are spinning or not and sometimes I sure looks like they aren't spinning while on the next shot with the same arrow is spun fine. I never had that result with the longer vanes. I also have been using the NAP Quik Spins because I got some feedback from a major arrow company that suggested that these vanes did a very good job of spinning and stabilizing an arrow. Most people don't realize it, but an arrow doesn't start spinning until it is well beyond the bow. That is when it is most susceptible to planing. A fletching that spins it as soon as possible is a good choice.
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Mike from NJ asks:Hey Bill, Really like the new show format with the different states. I'll be checking all of them especially the Northeast. Since you've been such a big help in the past(once again thanks) I have a question for you about arrows. Specifically the Easton ST Axis with the HIT inserts. I have been under the impression that I don't need an adapter ring with the G5 Montec heads because of how the head sits flush against the shaft(The way it's designed to, correct? ) But I have recently been told that if I hit any bone on an animal it will drive the head back into the shaft splintering it. Is there any truth to this, and what are your thoughts. Thanks Once AgainWinke Responds:Mike, These are the exact words from the Easton site: "Fixed broadheads that utilize the face of the insert to support or hold the blades in place and mechanical broadheads that use the insert as a stop for the blades after opening require BAR’s." It is probably a good idea to use the metal ring on those shafts for all conditions described above. However, the Montec doesn't fall into this category. I guess there is no reason to bother. I have ruined a few of the ST shafts over the years (quite a few) by not using the metal washer with mechanical heads. The insert will support the head pretty well, but as mentioned, the washer just helps to make the end of the shaft hold up better to impact - especially bone impact.
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Shane from TN asks:Bill found the article about the lighted knock.Bought this magazine because of one of your articles. North American hunter Nov. 2008 Issue. Chuck Adams writes " Electronics aren't legal on arrows in some states,and some archery record keeping organizations, such as the Pope and Young Club ,don't allow entries taken with lighted nocks."Winke Responds:Hmm, interesting. I guess I wasn't aware of that. I have never entered an animal so as long as it is legal and ethical I am all for it. I like lighted nocks - I just think they look cool. We need to be using them more on the show because they it much easier to follow today's fast arrows on camera - only where legal of course.
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jon from PA asks:Bill, will a thinner diameter arrow penetrate better than a thicker diameter arrow?.Love the show,thanks!Winke Responds:Jon, Yes, if they are the same weight, the thin one will win the penetration contest. I have witnessed two scientific tests that show this. Granted, the tests weren't on live deer, but we can assume it will hold true on deer, as well. Smaller diamter, less surface area, less drag.
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Chad from MO asks:Hey, Bill, here's another question for you. I'm getting ready to buy a hoyt katera, 60#, 29"dl w/ Z3 cams. with a 100 grain tip, what would be the better arrow to choose: a .400 spined arrow @ 28" or a 29" .340 spined arrow. I know the cams are aggressive, but would like some advice before I spend the money on a couple of dozen.Winke Responds:Chad, I would think at 60 pounds the 400s would be stiff enough. However, I would consider overall weight of the arrow too. I like my deer hunting arrows to fall between 6 and 7 grains of finished arrow weight per pound of maximum draw weight. So for a 60 pound bow, I would want my finished arrow (tip, fletching, insert, nock, shaft) to weigh about 375 to 400 grains. Keep that in mind when selecting the arrow. If you shoot a release aid, it is better select an arrow that is too stiff than one that might be too flexible. Not knowing the specific weights of the shafts you are looking at, I can't offer a more specific answer. Good luck. Bill
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Matt from IL asks:hey bill! love the show!! i was wondering how you choose your arrows. most things like bows are easy to tell whats good and whats not. but with arrows other than price i have no idea what im looking for and i was just wondering how you choose your arrows and what u look for wen u buy yours! thanks matt!Winke Responds:Matt, Thanks for your support. Like most guys, I shoot carbon and tend to stick with name brands. There are several companies that have made carbon arrows for several years and they wouldn't still be in that game if they were making junk. So stick with the main brands. Also, I look for arrow weight. I like an arrow that weighs roughly 6 to 7 grains per pound of draw force. So if you shoot 70 pounds, a 450 grain to 475 grain total arrow weight (shaft plus all add-ons) would be a good balance between speed and quiet shooting. Finally, I look at diameter. I like small diameter arrows. They make a lot of sense to me in aiding penetration. Smaller diameter arrows penetrate better because they cause less drag. It can be like splitting hairs so don't get too carried away on the diameter part. Just find a name brand shaft that weighs the right amount and is pretty straight (at least +/-.005 or better).
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Jeff from MO asks:Hey Bill, I had a question about fletching. In particular a type of fletching made by Starrflight archery in AZ. The fletching is called a FOB. Are you familiar with them? The concept is interesting to say the least, but I bought some and have been pleasantly surprised with them. I like the simplicity of installing them. That really sold me and that is really a huge selling point. I love what you are doing here and being from northern MO I can't wait to see the MO section up and running. We have some very big deer here. Last year I took my largest ever. He was 169" and every bit of an old warrior! Good luck with the hunt!Winke Responds:Jeff, I have studied the FOB and have spoken with others that use it. It is a good product and definitely an alternative to traditional fletching. I appreciate your support and we are looking forward to the MO show, as well. Congrats on the great buck. I got your e-mail with the photo and will have that on the site today. Talk to ya soon.
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Chris from TN asks:Bill, love the website.Have a question about arrow weight.Would like to shoot the same arrows out of my 3 bows. Switchback xt,drenalin, & alphamax 32 29in.draw 64pounds & 28inch arrow with feathers & 100gr.muzzy mx3.This arrow weight's 356gr.Thinking about going to a 28in.or 28.5in.draw length on these bows because of a better fit.Can you give me your opinion on the best arrow weight for my setup's on big midwestern bruiser's.ThanksWinke Responds:Chris, Thanks for your support. That arrow should be fine. It is just a touch light for me, but with the shortened draw length you can get by with a little less arrow weight and still be fine. I look at how much energy the bow is pumping out and then try to make sure the arrow is absorbing most of it (rather than the energy staying in the bow and accessories as it does with a very light arrow). Worst case is a dry fire where all the energy is dissipated in the bow. You know what happens when you dry fire a bow. So the best case is a log that moves off the rest and drops to the ground when you release the string. Everything in between is tradeoffs between the two extremes to varying degrees. Personally, I like to stay toward the heavier side because it is easier on the bow, produces a quieter bow and absorbs more energy for better penetration. But we are splitting hairs here. The short answer, you will be fine, but if you buy new arrows consider going a bit heavier (closer to 400 grains). Good luck, a great list of bows.
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Chad from MO asks:Bill, great show and website. Been a big fan of yours since I started subscribing to Petersen's bowhunting. My question: what is your current set-up? Poundage, draw length, arrows, etc? I always find that very informative to see what some of the pros shoot.Winke Responds:Chad, Thanks for your support. I really appreciate it. I shoot 80 pounds, 32 inches. I shoot Easton Full Metal Jacket. I think they are best arrows on the market for my draw weight. I can get a nice balanced arrow that weighs around 6 to 6.5 grains per pounds of draw weight. If you have more questions, please feel free to ask. Best regards. Bill
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Dallas from MO asks:I am trying to plan a trip "out west" for either whitetails or mule deer in the next two years. I currently shoot a heavier gpi arrow (10.3) with 4 inch vanes and a 100 grain 2 blade expandable broadhead. I shoot a single cam bow at about 64-65 pounds and my arrow length is roughly 28.5 inches. I will most likely switch broadheads (I am not pleased with their performance) before the trip. What other set up adjustments (poundage, arrow selection, broadhead, etc.) would you suggest for hunting western game, especially when it comes to making 40+ yard shots?Winke Responds:Dallas, You might drop down to just a little lighter arrow, but I wouldn't go below about 9 grains per inch. Not much of a decrease (30 grains or so). That would keep your finished arrow weight at around 6 grains per pound of max draw weight. A good place to be for most bowhunting. 100 grain heads are fine. Overall, I would simply make sure I had a good laser rangefinder and learn to use it quickly on any shot past about 25 yards. That is what I do. I range everything, but I have shot tons of deer (mostly does) and I am comfortable doing a lot of stuff right before I draw. You might have to practice that a little. Knowing the exact range (and practicing a lot) is the key to success on longer shots. Good luck. Bill
