Archery Misc.
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Pat from GA asks:Hey Bill, I've been experimenting lately with trigger sensitivity on my release to help get that surprise shot. I know it's probably a matter of personal preference, but how "hot" do you recommend setting your trigger travel for hunting purposes? As I mentioned before, I want a surprise release, but I don't want an unintentional misfire.Winke Responds:Pat, I would rather not set it "hot" but rather shorten the release stem so the trigger is contacting my finger deeper, possibly even as deep as the second pad of the index finger. This desensitizes the finger and you won't feel the pressure building as much as you would when using your finger tip. That is what I would focus on. Trigger travel is actually more of problem than trigger tension. I don't like a lot of travel in my releases. If the one you are shooting has a lot of travel, I would suggest you try a Scott model. I have shot them for many, many years and they have a very clean trigger for an affordable release aid. Good luck. (4-29-12)
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Jason from NY asks:I noticed you run weights on the bottom of the riser. I've been shooting the matrix rkt and have been getting some torque. If I shoot it bare bow it doesn't torque at the shot. I really don't want to put a v-bar on my hunting bow. I'd like to try the weights. Who makes the weights? How much weight did you have to add? Thanks, Jason p.s. been watching the main show since the start. Its the only hunting show I really love because, its real.Winke Responds:Jason, You may have seen something that wasn't there. I don't run any bottom weights. You may be looking at my wind-checker. It is a little black plastic item at the bottom of the bow that does look like a weight. I bet you can make a quick weight system using a bolt and some big washers. I saw Chuck Adams do that one time and it made a lot of sense. I don't see anything on the market after a quick look. Good luck.
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James from MN asks:I noticed you didn't have any string silencers on your bow. Are you doing that to gain more speed, or just havent put them on yet? Also your peep looked huge compared to what I have on mine? Is that the 1/4" G5 peep?Winke Responds:James, I usually put on the Sims String Leeches. They work pretty well and don't weigh much. As you suggest, I use the 1/4 inch G5 Meta Peep. I then center the entire pin guard in the peep to keep my precision for good accuracy at longer ranges. Good luck. (4-24-12)
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Jake from WI asks:Bill, I don’t know why I never thought of this before today and don’t recall any question about it; as I was watching the recent show on perfect practice, I was wondering if you ever practice from a tree stand? From the videos, it looks like you are fairly high in the tree when hunting and some of the shot angles appear very steep which could account for your some of your high hits. Knowing you use a Nikon rangefinder and I assume it has the technology that tells you exactly what yardage to use at various angles, but have you ever verified that the rangefinder is correct at these steep angles with your setup? I’m interested in what you find out because I bet there many people out there that take for granted their rangefinder is correct and have never tested it. Thanks, JakeWinke Responds:Jake, When I sight in my bow, I sight in based on the rangefinder not based on markings on the ground. So even if the rangefinder is off a bit, my pins are calibrated to the rangefinder so it doesn't matter. I do some practicing from a tree stand but over the years I have learned that with my anchor point and arrow speed there is no discernable change in impact point from the ground versus 20 feet up. Actually, my stands aren't that high - probably 20 feet on average. It must just look that way. Finally, the angle-adjusted rangefinders are over-rated for tree stand hunters. The change in impact for a shot at 30 yards from a 20 foot treestand using the distance from an angle-adjusted rangefinder and a regular one is measured in portions of an inch, not in inches. Where those rangefinders really shine is on long shots over very steep terrain, such as western hunting in the mountains. I guess if you take a long shot from a tree stand down a steep hill (not to flat ground below the stand) the angle-adjusted rangefinder would make a real difference. I never saw any real changes in accuracy when going from a regular rangefinder to an angle-adjusted one for tree stand shooting. You have to practice from a tree stand to know exactly how you and your gear perform, but that technology is over-rated for tree stand shooters. Good luck. (4-23-12)
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Jeremy from MN asks:I know this has been touched on before, but a week ago I was watching a hunting show that had a guy saying it would be crazy for a person not to use a "D" loop if using a release. I thought of you right away! The real reason for his comment, was the replacement of string on your bow. Do you find yourself having to replace your bow string yearly or every other year? just curious as I would imagine you shoot quite a bit more then the average joe. Thanks Bill.Winke Responds:Jeremy, There are a number of reasons to use the loop and a number of reasons not to use the loop. I like attaching straight to the string because it is very solid and fast. However, the loop may be slightly more accurate and may produce better arrow flight if you don't use the release aid correctly. Each person can experiment for themselves. I know some very good target shooters who still attach their release directly to the string when hunting. I don't replace my strings very often at all. The main reason is that I over-wrap my serving in the area where the release contacts it with the string material from an old string. I change the overwrap regularly, and only occassionally do I have to replace the string serving. As long as you are careful about doing these two things, your string will last a long time even if you attach your release directly. Good luck. (3-23-12)
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Rudolph Ferdinand from AK asks:Not A Question. Practice points coming loose, I use wax that we use for bow string works very good in keeping those points tight.Winke Responds:Rudolph, Good information. Thanks much. Have a great day. (3-16-12)
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Dustin from IL asks:Bill, I just recently bought one of hoyts new bows for 2012 the vector 32. The limbs are pretty much parallel at rest. I want to build my own bow press to work on this bow and from what i have found a regular press won't work well on these new parallel limb bows. But anyway here's a link to a design for a press that I found online http://www.webow.com/Bow%20Press%20Plans.pdf Will this design work on my particular bow if I design it correctly? From what i understand and what my bow manual states is that you should not put any pressure on the riser at all, only the limbs. I think if i made it so the inner rollers would go wide enough to put pressure on the limbs I would be ok. This will be my first time using a bowpress so I want to make it right. thanksWinke Responds:Dustin, It looks like you are right about that. I think that would work. Also, I would look at a few commercial models on the market to see how they do it. Apple makes a popular bow press for parallel limb bows and so does Sureloc. I have gotten by OK with a simple Bowmaster when I am traveling and if you aren't going to press the bow very often, it works just fine. If you are pressing all the time, you will get tired of screwing the hand winch repeatedly. Otherwise, that is also a good, affordable alternative. Good luck. (2-26-12)
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Charlie from IL asks:Great season Bill! I have a major problem with my anchor point. I bury a knuckle behind my ear. I have been doing it that way since I started shooting. When I am hunting, I have a hard time shooting with any sort of hat on. That is a problem when it is cold. Taking the hat off quickly when deer approach isn't always an option which leaves me with a very uncomfortable anchor. Any ideas?Winke Responds:Charlie, You may need to learn to move into anchor point a different way, maybe move the hat up with your knuckle as you anchor. Or possibly you can cut a small part of your hat off to accomodate the anchor. No one says your hat has be pretty. Believe me, I take a lot of grief for the ugly hat I wear on the shows sometimes! Those are just a few thoughts. I don't think I would change the way you shoot at this time. I would look for other options. Good luck. (2-20-12)
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David from GA asks:Bill, What brand of lighted nocks do you use? They really show up good on camera. Thanks, David HelmlyWinke Responds:David, I haven't been using them. I did use some from G5 back in 2008 and they were pretty good, but they had some quality problems with that batch. I am not sure if they are still making them. I am not sure which brands are the best now - I haven't been experimenting with them. They are pretty cool though when you see them in low light on the video. It is like a tracer round! Good luck. (2-14-12)
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John from IA asks:Bill, Hello. Enjoy all that MW staff and you do to provide the most realistic hunting show. So, now the season is over and some much appreciated down time is available; how can I get in touch with the MW staff and yourself to try to get you guy's over here in Ottumwa to shoot at the Wapello Chiefs Bowmen's Club some time this summer. You mentioned last year when I posted a very simliar question to you about this. You responed by saying "not shooting at my best right now". Well, if you don't practice and push yourself or shoot with others that may be better shooters than how do you expect to get any better? I'm also curious about if it is just a timing issue for MW staff and yourself? Is it a money issue? Do you not normally do public appearances of this nature? Personally, I think the off-season is more important than opening day, because if you are not mentally confident in your shooting abilities than all that fancy expensive equipment isn't worth nothing if you can't putWinke Responds:John, Thanks. I will put the invite out to the other guys. I shoot a lot leading up to the season, but I don't shoot much again until late summer. It is just a time thing. Between the family and the various work I have to do (Midwest Whitetail is only part of what I do - and it really takes a lot more time than people think to pull all this together every year) I am just about tapped out. Heck, I spend nearly three hours per day (sometimes more) corresponding with people, answering the Ask Winke Qs, etc. I don't like to shoot in a tournament when I know I am going post a score but have not practiced regularly for it. To shoot well takes a lot of hours of practice. I can get where I need to be in September and October when I am preparing for the season. I am always ready when the time comes. But I don't have the necessary hours to reach top form during the rest of the year, unfortunately. It has probably been 15 years since I shot year around and competed regularly in regional shoots. I can't speak for the other guys at the office, they may be in peak form all summer, but as for me, I am generally very rusty in the summer. That is why I don't like to compete much anymore. It is just a time thing. Best regards. (1-30-12)
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Kevin from AL asks:Bill, thanks for the quick response last week to my question about the new scent suit you are working on with Cabelas. If the new suit does not have a hood, a contoured collar that dips in the front to give an unobstructed anchor point at full draw like on other Cabelas Super Slam xtreme bowhunter jackets would be nice. Just a thought. I just purchased a Hoyt carbon matrix and wanted to know what length Fuse carbon blade stabilizer you use with your matrix. I wish Hoyt had kept the 7" brace height on the new matrix but the 6.75" brace height shot just as smooth and Hoyt said you would not notice any difference but would get more speed. Also, do you prefer blazer vanes or NAP quik spins to steer your rocket tipped arrows? Just wondering which you had found to be best in your tests. If you see a similar post earlier today, I apologize but I did not think my first post went through. Keep up the good work with your show and website!Winke Responds:Kevin, Thanks for the input. I'll pass it along. 1/4 inch difference in brace is not noticeable. I think both fletchings are fine. I used the short (6 1/2 incher). It is a cool stabilizer. I gave the one I had (complete with blood from the G5 buck) to one of my parting interns so I need to get another one. I shot the QuikSpins for several years and liked them. They don't require as much helical so they may work better for some situations. I will likely stick with them.
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Jarrod from IA asks:Hey Bill, I have asked a couple questions on here before and I had a couple more.. I am shooting 340 grain arrows out of my Mathews Switchback XT. I am going to order a dozen arrows fairly soon and wonder if it will make a difference in arrow flight if I put different vanes on such as the blazer vanes. My second question is what do you think of the G3 Tekan Broadhead? Thanks for your time.Winke Responds:Jarrod, It make a small difference - it depends on the rest you are shooting. If you are shooting a drop-away it shouldn't make a difference as the rest is probably clear. If shooting other styles you may see a difference because the Blazer vanes are slightly higher profile than some other types on the market. I have shot the Tekan and wasn't a huge fan. I think if I was going to shoot a G5 head it would probably be the T3. As you probably know I love simplicity, that is why I like the Rocket Steelhead. Just make sure that you are comfortable with the way the blades stay closed in flight and then open on impact. If the mechanics seem good to you go for it. Best regards. (1-20-12)
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Charlie from NY asks:First off that me say you are a very accomplished hunter that has been hunting for many years and taken many big deer with the bow. I just read on your blog that you feel the need to hold low or use the wrong pin when shooting a deer. I don’t understand why your not taking the sound of your setup into consideration. Sound travels around 1100fts and having an amplified sound could be causing the deer to drop. I’m sure Your bow is fast but it’s not as fast as sound. For you to consider aiming low or using the wrong pin after harvesting so many deer is just bizarre. What has changed that deer are reacting different to the shot? I don't think the deer have gone through a genetic alteration to cause this current reaction? Could sound be your true nemesis?Winke Responds:Charlie, Not sure what has changed. Possibly just a run of bad luck. The shots I have had over the past few years have been harder than in the past. I never had a Midwest buck jump the string before 2009. I have had many southern deer jump the string on me, but not northern deer. My bow is already quiet. It is very hard to make a bow quiet enough that an alert buck at 30 yards won't hear it. Yes, at longer ranges on breezy days you can make a bow quiet enough that the deer don't hear it and under 20 yards it doesn't really matter anyway because the deer don't seem to react fast enough to avoid the arrow - at least not here in the Midwest (that is based on our video studies). I repeat, you can't make a bow quiet enough that an alert deer can't hear it at 30 yards. At least I have never seen such a bow and I have shot literally hundreds of bows in my life. The bows I am shooting now are much quieter than the bows I shot back in the 90s and early 2000s. Again, I think it has been just a bad run of luck when the bucks are reacting more than I have seen them do in the past. I will mess with my arrows to see if I can silence my arrow some, but I really doubt that matters, I am quite sure the deer are reacting to the sound of the shot. It is real. Good luck. (1-17-12)
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Jake from IA asks:Bill, Do you think part of the reason you have shot high on a few bucks over the past few years is because of your draw weight? I know you can handle 80lbs shooting in the back yard but in a treestand or sitting in a ground blind couldn't the draw weight have an affect? You could still generate a ton of penetration at 70lbs with your long draw length.Winke Responds:Jake, It is not the draw weight - the problem is where I have the pin when the bow goes off. I am hitting where I am aiming. I am just aiming in the wrong place given the deer and their alert state. It is hard to figure out which ones to hold low on and which ones to aim dead on. However, I think I am finally zeroing in on the solution (after some very painful lessons). Best regards. (1-16-12)
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Todd from IL asks:Bill, Just read your 2 options for shooting lower on deer. Here is a third option for you that I have used for years. Set your pins to shoot 4 inches low. This allows you to stay natural by shooting at the center of the deer and get your desired arrow impact location. Great Show! ToddWinke Responds:Todd, That is also a good option. I am a little reluctant to do that because there may be situations where I am shooting at something that is ulikely to jump, like a wounded deer, etc. and then I want to know I can aim dead-on. I am still trying to decide the best strategy for me and my own mental state during the moment of truth. I am sure I can come up with something, but it is clear that simply aiming at the center of the chest and hoping they don't drop isn't going to cut it. Thanks for the input. Have a great day. (1-16-12)
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bill from PA asks:Hi Bill, I have a problem, I think it is a problem, with my collar coming in contact with my string. If you go to the ARTICLES section of your site, then click on ARCHERY TECH, then TARGET PANIC then look at the photo that starts the video. You can see that the hood/collar is contacting the fletching of the arrow. This is what is happening to me. Will this affect the arrow flight or will the arrow correct itself? Thanks for all the advice you give us mere mortals!Winke Responds:Bill, You definitely don't want anything to contact the arrow. I would find a way to get the collar to stay closer to your face/neck or cut it off. Even if it seems to be only lightly brushing the arrow, a slight change in body position could result in greater contact. It is not as critical as contact with the arrow after is free from the string, but I would still do whatever you need to do to eliminate it. Good luck. (1-1-12)
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Jeff from WI asks:I have noticed in several of your hunts over the last couple years of deer jumping the string. I believe I read once that you shoot 80#. Have you ever considered shooting a heavier arrow/less draw weight to reduce bow noise? I don't intend to sound critical just curious to hear your thoughts.Winke Responds:Jeff, It seems to be very difficult to make a bow so quiet that deer don't react to it. I already shoot 525 to 550 grain arrows. I actually went a bit lighter to reduce the amount of time that deer have to react to the sound. If deer can hear it most of the time anyway, making the arrow faster actually reduces the affects. Either way, I have learned that you simply have to aim low every time on alert deer. With does, you have to aim low even if they aren't alert. Happy New Year. (12-28-11)
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Jacob from MN asks:Mr. Winke, I'd like to thank you for taking the time out of your day to answer all of our questions, I'm sure it must get old and very repetitive for you. My question is which string silencer would you recommend? I hunt with a relatively low weight recurve bow, so I'm looking for an effective silencer that will take off little to no speed from my arrow. Thanks for your insight, JacobWinke Responds:Jacob, You are welcome. I have gone exclusively to the Limb Saver Leeches. These simple silencers do a good job without absorbing water or slowing the bow. I think that the "puff" style silencers are likely better for recurves, but they absorb water. If you only hunt in dry conditions, I think those would be my choice in your situation. Good luck. Merry Christmas (12-14-11)
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Jeremy Pou from TN asks:Hitting Left I am having trouble getting to the cause of my “left” problem. Some days I will go out and shoot consistently in the bull’s eye while other days I seem to shoot left about 6 inches. Both occurrences seem to produce tight groups but left is obviously no good. I have a feeling this is a form problem possibly with my bow arm but I’m not sure. Let me know if you need any more information. Thanks and I look forward to hearing from you’ Jeremy PouWinke Responds:Jeremy, Alot of times hitting left is the result of sbooting a bow with a draw length that is too long. Make sure that the elbow of your release hand is pointed straight away feom the target. That makes a big difference. Keep your bow arm pointed straight at the target until the arrow hits. Try those two things and see if that helps. Good luck and Merry Chrisrmas. (12-13-11);
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John from AL asks:Absolutely love your web site and your videos. I really think you offer the best product out there. Just watched you shoot Dagger. Saw how the deer dropped. I used to shoot quick spins and had the same problem. For two years I had 3 spine shot deer. I missed 2 others. Last year I bought a new bow and the dealer told me the quick spins have a slight whistle. Have someone safely shoot one by you, you can hear them coming. I loved how those arrows flew, but I want to cleanly kill deer - I have since moved to blazers and I have center punched every deer/elk since. Just wanted to share my experience. Keep the program goingWinke Responds:John, That is very interesting. I will try that. I have always figured they were responding to the sound of the bow firing, but I will try your suggestion. Thanks. Good luck. (11-12-11)
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Allen from LA asks:Hi, Winke My question is about penetration with my set up. I have a Hoyt Maxxis 31. Draw is 28.5 @ 65lbs. I'm shooting Gold Tip Velocity Pro 300 series arrows. With Rage 2" broadheads. Can u tell me an assumption on my kinetic energy and fps that I will be shooting? And also will I have any penetration problems using this set up? I have a friend that just bought some Beeman 400 arrows because he was told they produce a lot of kinetic energy. Should I change anything or am I good to go?Winke Responds:Allen, You are getting into a lot of physics here. I can't take the time to go through all of it for you and the other viewers right now, but I can make some summary statements. First off, the difference between the peneteration of one arrow versus another is minimal if the weight is less than 15% difference. That is a pretty wide range. Yes, you can make an arrow penetrate better by amping up the weight of the shaft, but only a bit better - for the sake of argument, lets say 10% better. Yet the lighter arrow may be enough faster that it turns marginal hits into kills because of the flatter trajectory reducing the affects of string jumping, misjudged distance. Also, a faster arrow is eaiser to shoot through holes in the brush, reducing deflections. So you can see there is a lot more to this than a simply yes or no. Lots of tradeoffs. I like fast heavy arrows, but if I have to give up a bit of weight to gain some more speed (within reason) I go for it. My rule of thumb is that a good whitetail hunting arrow should weigh about 6 grains per pound of maximum draw force (a completed arrow). Maybe just a touch less. That means you can get away with a finished arrow weighing 375 to 400 grains. That is about ideal for a good mix of penetration and speed. I like small diameter shafts because my testing shows they penetrate better. Smaller broadheads also improve penetration. You are on the large side when it comes to broadheads. They are fine if you only make soft tissue hits, but not so fine if you make hard tissue or bone hits. You will need to figure some of this out on your own. If penetration is really important, you need a small diameter shaft with smaller broadheads. The GT arrows are OK, but I am not a big fan of huge heads. I am conservative when it comes that kind of stuff. Good luck. (11-16-11)
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Elijah from MN asks:Bill i am 14 and have been shooting bow right handed for about 2 years but i am left eye dominant. I have been told if i switch over i will be a lot more accurate.. what would you recommend?Winke Responds:Elijah, You don't have to switch over if your eyes are of nearly equal strength, but you should definitely learn to shut your dominant eye when aiming otherwise you run the risk of the wrong eye taking over the sight picture when aiming. Also, I have found that my dominant eye is much stronger than my non-dominant eye. This makes aiming more accurate with the dominant eye. If you find that this is the case for you, you should probably switch hands right now and learn to shoot left handed to take advantage of the greater eye strength. If this is not the case, I would not switch hands on the bow. Good luck. (11-8-11)
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Elijah from MN asks:Bill, do you ever use string loops? do they actually inmprove accuracy?Winke Responds:Elijah, I recently wrote about this in the Ask Winke. Please take a look to see if you can find that post. It may be filed away by now. Short answer: I have used them but prefer to go straight to the string for hunting because I think it is quicker. I do believe the loop is more accurate because it can cut down on torque from the release on the string. However, if you practice a lot, the caliper will do just fine. Good luck. (11-12-11)
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Elijah from MN asks:Bill, i love the website. Have you ever used string loops and do they make a difference in performance? Thanks for the help.Winke Responds:Elijah, I have used them and they do help to improve the flight of the arrow somewhat. They reduce the torque the release head can have on the string, which permits better arrow flight and accuracy. They won't make your bow any faster or anything like that, but they can make you a bit more accurate. Good luck. (11-8-11)
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Dave from IN asks:Can you shoot a 300 grain carbon arrow with a Misson Maniac bow set at 65lbs.?Winke Responds:Dave, Yes, that is a good weight range for bowhunting. I would use a 100 grain broadhead with that. Stiffness is also important, but I am guessing based on the weight of the arrow it is the correct stiffness for that bow. Good luck. (11-6-11)
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Josh from VA asks:Bill, First of all, let me say that I really appreciate your writing and advice. I feel like I have learned a great deal from your honest and open experience. I am, however, having a very frustrating problem in regards to my bowhunting right now. I am, no doubt, left eye dominant. But I have missed 3 deer in the last several weeks by shooting about 2 feet to the right of where I was aiming. I know this sounds crazy, but is it possible that in the heat of the moment, I am somehow using my right eye? After 10+ years of bowhunting, this year I started the supposedly good habit of shooting with both eyes open, and I have been shooting well at my 3-d target. This problem has only surfaced when I'm shooting at a real deer. What do you think is going on here? I appreciate your time, Bill. Looking forward to hearing from you. JoshWinke Responds:Josh, Thanks for all your support. Your question got cut off in the display, but I can stilling answer it. I think I have a pretty good idea what is happening. In low light, while hunting, your dominant eye is restricted by the peep and the non-dominant eye takes over the sight picture. I used to shoot with both eyes open butterfly switched for this reason. I now squint my non-do.inant eye to assure that it doesn't cofuse the sight picture in low light. I still get plenty of field of view but no worry about messing up. Good luck. (11-5-11)
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Nick from IL asks:I'm shooting a new Mathews z7 extreme.. I took a shot at a doe at 46yrds and was amazed that I didn't get full pass though with my arrow.. I hit a little high maybe 3" below spine on broadside and 4" opposite side.. I'm shooting rage 3 blades.. I'm changing my arrows and broadheads.. What's your suggestion? And why do you think I didn't get full pass through.. (problem I never had with my Hoyt don't hold it against me lol).. Thanks for everything you do..Winke Responds:Nick, I have my system geared for penetration. I shoot a small diameter arrow (Easton Axis) and Rocket Steelhead broadheads. That combination does very well. Good luck. (11-3-11)
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Alex from IN asks:Hey Bill, three quick questions for you. My serving on the string of my Maxxis has separated in a couple of spots. Does that mean it's time for a new string? Also what do you think of Hoyt's new bows just by looking at them? Lastly, when will Muddy come out with there new stands? I saw them introduced at Shot Show and haven't seen them since. Thanks for the time you take to answer all these questions! Good luck this season! AlexWinke Responds:Alex, Definitely time to reserve the string you have. I wouldn't think you need a new string, necessarily. As a string stretches, the serving separates. All you have to do is cut the serving off and reserve. A good (good is the key word) bow shop rep can handle that or you can buy the items and do it yourself. It is not hard, but you do need the right stuff. I use a Cavalier serving jig, BCY Halo center serving and always wrap it in the direction of the existing serviing that you are taking off. There are many ways to terminate, but just feeding the end through a loop of old bow string material and pulling it under the last five or six wraps and then tightening that, will usually give you a good tight serving. Be sure to serve tight and you will be fine. I think the new Hoyts are very similar to last year's bows but they addressed a complaint some people had with them regarding smoothness of draw. They look good and I am sure they shoot good. There is nothing truly earth-shaking there. But it is unrealistic to think that a bow company can offer something earth-shaking every year. It isn't even good business to change everything that often. Muddy came out with the new Bloodsport stands. They are great for people who carry stands in to hunt. I would stick with their regular stands if you hang em and leave em all season. Good luck. (10-25-11)
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rob from IA asks:Bill I`m shooting a pse bow madness with 360 grain arrows. (i`m a speed freak) it`s set at 70 pounds and the top pin on my sight is pretty good to 30 yds. i`m wondering how to adjust for that when shooting deer from the stand or do i pull and pray? I did get my first kill last weekend on a decent 9 pointer but i spined him the first time. your advice and shows were a big help on it thank you!Winke Responds:Rob, Never pull and pray - too much at stake. Best thing to do is practice from a tree stand to learn how it changes for your individual setup and form. Each person will have a slightly different result when shooting from a tree stand. Most will shoot high (a little high to a lot high depending on the variables). The only way to know for sure is to practice from the same height you plan to hunt from. Good luck.
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Joe from PA asks:Mechanical Heads Bill I shoot a hoyt powerhawk set ar 55 lbs using alum arrows no.2114 with 100 grain fixed heads. I have a 26 inch draw my question would I be able to use mechanical heads with this set up and have good results. If so what would you recommend . Love your website thank you for your time and good luck this year.Winke Responds:Joe, I supervised testing about ten years ago where we compared mechanicals to fixed-blade (three blade heads) using a scientific approach. The head that won the test was the Rocket Steelhead - a mechanical. It penetrated better than all the three-bladed fixed heads like the Thunderhead, Wasp, Muzzy, etc. The difference wasn't much, but the Steelheads did go in deeper. We didn't test the two-blade cut to the point heads. They certainly would have penetrated better. What does this mean on real animals? That is debateable, but for me it confirmed that worst case, some mechanicals will penetrate at least as well as the fixed-blade heads. And for me, they are noticeably more accurate. That sold it. I was already shooting Steelheads most of the the time, but after that I never shot another broadhead except to gain some practical experience, such as to see if the wound channels were larger, etc. I always came back to the Steelhead for my serious hunting. So, there you have it. That is what I would be shooting. In fact, that is what I am shooting. Good luck.
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Eric from IL asks:This is my first year out with a bow and was wondering how to keep ones wits about themselves when drawing, on what will by my first deer with a bow or a firearm.Winke Responds:Eric, You need experience for sure. Shoot a few does as soon as you can. It is great practice and a good way to put meat in the freezer. I have learned that if you spend the time visualizing the approaching deer while you are on stand visualize yourself staying under control and making the shot you will condition your nervous system so that you are prepared when it happens for real. I still have to do this every year. That is what we love about bowhunting - the rush never gets old! Good luck.
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mohammad ali from MI asks:hey bill, well just think of my questions as keeping the ask winke section in bussiness, just kidding.I wanna ask you about the draw weight of my bow, im shooting 48 pounds, do you think i can shoot a deer from 35 yards or maybe 40 yards?Winke Responds:Mohammad, Yes, you should be fine, but accuracy is the most important factor on any shot. The bow can handle it if you hit them in the lungs (vitals). Also, keep in mind that deer often move from the time you release the string til the time the arrow arrives. So, just because you are accurate at the range, doesn't always mean the shot is a good one. Be sure that you read the deer's body language. Are they tense? Are they ready to take a step? Often they twith their tales just before taking a step. Etc. That is all part of bowhunting - not just the ability to shoot groups. Good luck.
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Blake from SD asks:Bill, I am always wanting to do more with my bow and am getting tired of waiting for the proshop. Do you know of any good books or video series or classes that can assist me in learning everything I can about bows so I won't have to go to the proshop and, possibly, start my own shop in my basement? Thanks!Winke Responds:Blake, I don't know about everything, but my book will help somewhat to get where you understand what is required for working on your own bow. It is in the "MW Gear" section of the website. Good luck.
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mohammad ali from MI asks:hey bill, well sorry if I'm asking too much questions but you know what, I really do respect you and you're a very knowledgeable hunter. My question is, how long should a string last me until I have to replace it, I shoot about 150 arrows a year, and yeah I know that's really low but I live an hour from the range shop so I can't shoot much anyways so how long do you think until I have to replace it? thanksWinke Responds:Mohammad Ali, Man that stinks. You need to find a portable target and a yard or field to shoot in somewhere. I would hate it if I had to shoot just that few times. At that rate, the string will last your lifetime as long as you keep it waxed and away from any high heat or abrsive edges (rocks, items in your car, etc.). I would never worry about replacing it until you see a strand break or until you are shooting at least 2,000 shots per year for five or six years. Good luck.
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Jon from MB asks:I shoot the rage 40ke 2 blade Is that good for a 40 pound draw weight and a 25 inch draw lengthWinke Responds:Jon, I would not shoot a broadhdead that opens that big with a draw weight of 40 pounds. I would focus on a smaller cutting diameter mechanical head (something in the 1 1/4 inch range) or I would use a fixed-blade head. By fixed-blade, I am talking about heads that don't open on impact and have cutting diameters in the 1 1/8 to 1 1/4 range. By reducing the cutting diameter you reduce the drag through the animal increasing penetration. That should be a priority with a 40 pound draw weight. Good luck.
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Pat from TX asks:Hey Bill. I just got a new Hoyt Carbon Element, but instead of the 70 lb. bows I've been shooting, I got this one with the 65 lb. limbs. This bow actually maxes out at around 67-68 lbs., but even if I wanted to shoot it at 65 lbs., would I have to change to a different spine arrow than what I'm currently using (Carbon Express Maxima 35o, fyi)? Good luck this season.Winke Responds:Pat, I would say your current arrow should be fine. If you are using a release aid, you are always better off having a shaft that is too stiff than one that is too limber. Good luck.
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Kevin from MN asks:I am thinking about using lighted nocks. I've heard that they take a few fps off. Are there any other disadvantages? Are they easy to turn off and on? Do you use them? Thanks.Winke Responds:Kevin, As long as they are well-built (straight with the arrow) there is no disadvantage. Most are pretty easy to turn off and on. I have used them and will likely use them again (I like the Easton brand but there are certainly lots of others too). Good luck.
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Jordan from IA asks:Bill, I know that you shoot heavy poundage. I'm assuming that your setups are 70-80 lb. limbs and you max them out. I do the same. My AM32 is at 82 lbs. But, I see the a lot of guys that are shooting 50-60 lb limbs and some even do the 40-50 lb limbs. They are killing deer just as dead as I am. Now, I like shooting the heavy poundage and heavy arrow just for the reassurance and also because I can. I'm only 22 and figure I might as well take advantage of my youth but hearing guys tell me they are shooting 52 lbs. and getting pass thrus has me wondering if I should just say forget it and make drawing/holding weight on my bow that much easier. Do you ever have this thought? Not much of a question but just curious.Winke Responds:Jordan, I used to shoot over 100 pounds so 80 never felt like that much until the last few years - I am getting older. However, in my mind there is still a very practical reason for setting up for maximum penetration (I shoot small diameter, heavy arrows and conservative broadheads) so if I hit the buck in the shoulder I still kill him. Also, I have shot some deer head on over the years when no other shot was possible. It is a devestating hit with the amount of penetration I get. So my answer is no, I am not tempted to drop my draw weight until old age and treachery force me to do it. As long as you are careful not to overdo the practice sessions when first getting into shape, it is still beneficial if you can shoot the heavier weight. Just make sure you can hold the string easily. I try to get where I can hold the string back for at least 100 seconds without shaking. If I can't, I then have to re-evaluate. Good luck.
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colby from OK asks:I have a mathews mission ux2 bow do u think i should have a string decelorator on it or a wrist sling. The reason why is they wont both fit on the bow at the same time.Winke Responds:Colby, I would use the decellerator. You can easily learn to shoot a bow with a nice narrow grip like that without a sling even if you make the correct surprise release. I don't use a sling, but I do make a surprise release. Without a sling you run the risk of the bow jumping right out of your relaxed hand when you make a surprise release. That is the only reason to use a sling, by the way. But with a small grip section you can lightly curl your fingers around the grip and still keep the bow from jumping out of your hand. Today's parallel limb bows are much easier to control in this way too, compared to the more vertical limb bows that were popular ten years ago. So, my vote is for eliminating the sling. Good luck.
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greg from WI asks:Have shot both bow and gun for years, I've found out I'm left eye dominant but shot all right handed. Any tip to make it work better viewing targets. Try shot left handed but being 60 makes that almost impossible to do. ThanksWinke Responds:Greg, About the only thing I can think of is to learn to squint (nearly close the left eye). That will help some, but there is no other option but to really suppress that dominant eye so you can aim correctly with your right eye. Makes it tougher for sure. Good luck.
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James from MN asks:Hey Bill, I have a few questions for you. Hope you can answer them. Some of the newer bows have weights built into the string near the cams. Do you think this really increases speed like they claim or is it a gimmic? If so, should I many put and some how many on my after market strings for my dual cam bow? Also, do you think lighted nocks weighing in the 20-24gr will affect arrow flight significantly having that weight in the back of the arrow? Finally, when putting dampners (like limb saver or Bowjax) on your limb,will putting more than one start slowing the bow down? Thanks so much for your time. Good job with the shows so far this season!Winke Responds:James, I think it increases speed or they wouldn't do it. They get graded on speed (IBO rating) so they aren't going to do something that isn't effective in improving that standard. They put those on there based on testing at the factory. If you want to try it you can, but you will need a chronograph to determine if it is making a difference and where to place them to get the most difference. I would use brass nock sets and move them around until you know where the weight needs to be (they are easy to move). My guess is that it won't make a big difference - maybe a few fps. Not really worth messing with in most bows. I don't think lighted nocks will affect arrow flight much as long as they are straight and perfectly made. If they are the least bit out of line with the shaft that will cause arrow flight problems. Putting any weight on the limbs will slow the bow down slightly, so yes, putting on more than one will slow the bow more. In most cases it is worth giving up a few fps to get a quieter bow, but you will reach a point of diminishing returns where you slowing the bow down too much to gain a tiny bit quieter bow. Good luck this year.
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Fiong from MN asks:HEY BILL, MY FIRST QUESTION IS, WHAT DID YOU USE TO PROTECT YOUR BOW STRING? I REMEMBER SEEING IT ON ONE OF YOUR EPISODE, BUT I CAN'T SEEM TO FIND IT (IT WAS WHITE). PLEASE HELP? LAST QUESTION, WHEN DO YOU START HUNTING OVER BIG N BEASTY FOOD PLOT? THANK YOU, FIONG LORWinke Responds:Fiong, I just use a basic string wax. I think the white tube was from Brownell, but there are also other brands that work well too. Be sure to wax your string a few times per year and work the wax into the fibers by rubbing your fingers on it to create friction to melt the wax. Don't be tempted to use leather or some other material to create the friction as you can heat up a string too much and damage it. Using your fingers will assure that you don't get too hot. There are brassicas in the FF Big N Beasty blend that will attract deer right away so I start hunting them in early season, but the majority of the blend is most attractive after the first hard freeze (probably in late October where you live in MN - possibly a bit later). Good luck.
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Randy from WI asks:Bill, love your show!! anyway..i bought my wife a bow and we're sighting it in...long story short she's right eye dominant...she's shoots right handed, but she can't blink her left eye..when she shoots with both eyes open she hits about 10 in. to the left from 5 yrds...i put a patch on her left eye and she hits the bullseye....question is..can we teach her how to shut her left eye while her right eye is open??...she doesn't want to wear a patch when ever she shoots....please help RandyWinke Responds:Randy, There are many people that have to wear the patch. However, I taught myself to close my left eye when I was kid. I couldn't do it at first, but I learned. I am sure that if she practices, she will learn it too. Also, I am guessing that she is seeing two pins when she shoots with both eyes open (I do too). She might be using the wrong one when aiming. However, that is only a band-aid. She really needs to learn to close that left eye or wear the patch. Those are the only good solutions in this case. Good luck.
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Richard Futch from FL asks:Great show Bill! Santa gave me a Mission Endeavor this past Dec. Shooting 50lbs at this time. The question: Can you start bow hunting for white tails at 61 years of age, and how do you get yourself in shape to pull 85lbs? Best of luck on the coming season!!Winke Responds:Richard, You don't need any more than 50 pounds to kill them. Just be sure to hit them in the lungs/liver area. You may not break any shoulders at 50 pounds of draw weight, but you don't have to to kill deer. I shoot heavy becasue I want to and I don't to admit that I am getting old. Eventually, I will have to drop it down too. My dad shoots 50 pounds and does great. Our son Drew killed one in 2009 with 24 pounds! The only upside of heavy draw weight is the shoulder factor. If you happen to hit it, you will have a better chance of getting both lungs with heavy poundage and a heavy arrow. The best practice for shooting is shooting. Get out and shoot a lot and you will be just fine. Good luck.
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James from MN asks:Hey I was calculating my new bow's KE. It looks like I have about 103lbs of KE with my 442gr arrows. Do you think this is enough KE to bust through a bucks shoulder should I accidently hit it? Currently I'm using a 2 blade, 2" expandalbe... Is there a particualr KE number that you think will be able to bust through the shoulder with a large mechanical head? Thanks again.Winke Responds:James, 103 ft-lb is a lot and should be plenty to produce enough penetration on a shoulder hit. I am not a big fan of 2" cut broadheads on a shoulder hit. It might work, but I am sure that the smaller heads will get it done. I have done it a few times with heads in 1 1/4 inch range. Either way, you are packing quite a punch, I am guessing you will be fine. Good luck.
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Curtis from IA asks:Have you or any of your staff tried the tree saddle? I think I might be interested in it for a few reasons? Whats your view, thanksWinke Responds:Curtis, I have tried them and so have friends of mine. Most people who have used them, liked them. The only thing to consider is that you have to screw in a number of steps at stand height to support your feet and give you leverage when turning. Also, this is a temporary stand, obviously. If you plan to hunt the same spot multiple times, it is not quite as valuable since a regular stand would be a bit more convenient in that case. However, if you carry your stand in to hunt (such as when hunting public land) the Saddle, and I think there is one other competing product, is a good choice. Good luck.
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Mike from NJ asks:Bill, I have a question concerning the G5 peep. I am currently using the one that is 5/16 as was a friend of mine until he was shooting in his yard and his bow basically blew up just before reaching full draw. Apparently the peep had a burr on it and cut the string. When he took it to the archery shop to be repaired he was told that his was not the first bow to have this happen. He went home and removed the one on his daughters bow. Have you heard of anything related to this? I'm now a little leery of shooting my own bow even though I see no noticable burr on my peep. Also maybe to be on the safe side do you know of anyone else who sells a peep this big? They all seem to stop at 1/4. Thank you for your help.Winke Responds:Mike, I have seen this for years with all kinds of peeps but never with the G5. When I used aluminum peeps, I used to carry a small rat tail file in my tackle box that I used to clean up all the edges before I intstalled them. I lost that thing and have not bothered to replace it. It is a much bigger problem with aluminum peeps, in my experience. I have had to replace a few strings because I slid my aluiminum peep around while setting up a bow and cut some strands on my bowstring. You are probably fine with the peep you have. That is very rare with the G5 peep, but to be safe you can go to the hardware store and buy a small rat tail file, clean up all the edges and put the peep back in. Good luck.
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Chris from IN asks:Bill, I had the question about arrow weight from a z7x. The arrows I am shooting are a 350 spine CE maxima blue streak. They are 8.3 gpi. Most of my shots will be downhill if that makes a difference. Also, if you have correct form, what part of your body should ache after a good days shooting?Winke Responds:Chris, With correct form, the muscles across the top of your back are carrying most of the load at full draw. The inside of release side shoulder (toward the spine) will also be a strong force in getting the bow back. It is not the muscles in your arms that do the work. Also, the bow-side shoulder may be a bit tired from holding itself forward when aiming. Don't let that muscle group let you down and allow the shoulder push backward. keep the should down and forward. Make the skeleton absorb the force of the draw and not your shoulder joint of shoulder muscles. That may cause some tired feeling until you build the shoulder up enough to stay forward and down. My last tip: quality over quantity. Shoot each shot as if it is the only one you will shoot that day. Never get lazy or rush through even a single shot. When you start getting tired, take a break. Don't let tired muscles cause you to use poor form. Good luck.
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Chris from IN asks:Hey Bill, I recently picked up a back tension release but haven't had a chance to get into it yet. However, when shooting using proper form, where should you feel "it" if you will? Thanks, ChrisWinke Responds:Chris, You will feel it when the shot takes you by surprise. There are other aspects of good form (like letting the pin float on the spot while you turn your hand), but the real feeling you are seeking is the surprise release. If you know when it will go off (or tell it to go off) you are not peforming the correct release. Pull, aim, pull, aim, until it goes off. You will feel the bow jump forward and your release hand go straight back. That is your goal. Keep everything in line with the arrow for best results.
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Chuck from AR asks:Biil, I hope you can help me with my bow. I shoot a Bow-tech Admiral,65lbs,ripcord rest. About 2 weeks ago I started noticeing that my arrow would almost lift off the launcher when I drew. I does lift off the launcher and goes to the bow side when I draw with the launcher in the down pos. The arrow would likely come completly off the rest and to the bow side if the rest didnt have a containment arm. It seems to shoot about the same as it always has. What do I need to do to fix it, or if it shoots good leave it alone. Keep up the great work your show and web site are awesome. thanks BillWinke Responds:Chuck, I guess if it shoots good leave it alone. But the actual cure is to change the way you nock the arrow. My guess is that you are using a centered nocking loop and the loop is cocked a bit around to the side of the string. Maybe you do that to get the peep to rotate correctly. In order to have the arrow come back clean, you need to keep the string from turning as you draw the bow. That means, you need to add a twists to the string 1/2 twist at a time until the peep comes back square without help from the nocking loop. Second, make sure the top knot of the loop is tied on one side of the string and the bottom knot is tied on the other. That will further keep the string from turning as your draw back. Finally, if the arrow continues to lift, you need to adjust the loop slightly. Make sure it is not squeezing the nock too tight when you snap it in before drawing. It will only get tighter as you draw. Spreading the knots a tiny bit may help with the lifting. If that doesn't do it, you need to offset the loop toward the bottom cam by placing (or serving) a spacer (could be a brass nock set) under the arrow and then span that plus the arrow nock with your loop. In other words, the knots are above the arrow and below the spacer. That will create some downpressure on the arrow when you draw it so it doesn't lift. Hope that helps. Have a great day.
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Daniel from ON asks:Hey Bill, I'm new to bowhunting and bought a Powerhawk. The problem is that it makes a loud vibration when fired. I have tightened all of the accesories and the noise is still there. This leads me to believe the string is making the noise? What is your opinion on dampers and which ones if any? I'm not opposed to them but am of the (uneducated)opinion that I should be able to tune the bow to eliminate the vibration. What are your thoughts on this? Thank-you DanielWinke Responds:Daniel, It could be the string or it could be something as simple as a loose D-Clip on the axles or a loose screw on a module. I have seen such items make a lot of noise when they vibrate. The way to find out for sure is to twang the string just about six to eight inches as you listen intently to various parts of the bow isolate where the noise is coming from. If there is no vibration noise when twanging the string it is likely not an accessory or piece of hardware and likely the string. Then you can use silencers to help. Start wtih String Leeches from LimbSaver. They won't collect water and are good at dampening out vibration. You may also want to put them in your harnesses too. If this doesn't make the bow significantly quieter, it is likely still a piece of hardware on the bow or on one of the accessories. Good luck.
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Matt from IL asks:Bill, Why did you change to a D-Loop vs. attaching right to the string with your release? I noticed that you switched in your last segment. What are the advantages and or disadvantages that you are experiencing? Thank you, MattWinke Responds:Matt, I did it only because the Longhorn Hex requires a D Loop for you to shoot it. I will still attach directly to the string when hunting. Have a great Easter.
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Tim from MI asks:I just bought a new Maxxis and it didn't come with any string silencers. I have always used cat whiskers on my other bows and noticed a difference in sound but I see you and most of your staff don't use any either. Are they just not necessary with the newer bows?Winke Responds:Tim, I think they help and I do use them on most of my bows come hunting time. I would go with the String Leeches from Sims. They are the best solution I have tried in recent years. Good luck.
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Danny from KY asks:i have a bear charge 29 inch draw at 65 lbs of pull carbon express maxima hunter arrows with nap quickspin quickfletching and 100 grain rage 3 blade broadheads, the bow is rated at 305 fps ibo. i was shooting 70 lbs but have tighter groups at around 65 lbs. is this a sufficient setup for deer hunting as far as arrow speed and kinetic energy. if so what do you think my maximum effective range would be.Winke Responds:Danny, Yes, that will get the job done just fine. I would say your maximum range is much more a function of your abilities as an archer than any limitations of your equipment. I also bet it is not as far as you think (or hope) it is. Under real hunting conditions, most people have a maximum effective range of around 30 yards. 40 is a long shot. Not only do you have to manage your own composure and form, but the animal has to cooperate and hold still for that long. The end result is a shorter maximum range than most people believe. Good luck.
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kevin from WI asks:Hi Bill, i was just wondering how do you paper tune a bow, and would you do it if you shoot a whisker biscuit. would it help me shoot better? keep up the good work, love the show!!!! thanksWinke Responds:Kevin, I just tape a piece of printer paper across a hole I cut in a cardboard box. You shoot through the paper at a range of about six feet, or so. Judging by the way the arrow tears that paper (you can tell the point from the fletched end by the shape of the tear pattern) you can make adjustments. You want a perfect hole with just the three slices from the fletching. It is too much really try to cover all the bases of paper tuning here, but you have only a few items you can easily move (the rest and the nock location and the rotation of your arrow's nocks to control clearance of the fletching). To go farther would take too much time. My book has more detail on the subject if you are looking for a resource. It is in the MW Gear store. You can also do searches on the web about paper tuning and probably find enough to get you where you need to be. It will make you shoot a bit more consistently and will aid accuracy with broadheads and will improve penetration slightly. You need to tune with every rest even the Whisker Biscuit. Good luck.
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Mike from ON asks:How do you end up with cam tilt with all the " non stretching strings" on the market todayWinke Responds:Mike, Not every string is non stretching. Some companies produce better strings than others. Plus not all of the bows are quality controlled perfectly at the factory. I have seen some Brand X (won't name the brand) that were horrible right out of the box.
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Jason from PA asks:Hey Bill, I saw the question on how to keep your field points from coming loose. Instead of gluing them, try putting a bit of string wax on the thread of the field point. It works for meWinke Responds:Jason, That is a great tip. Thanks.
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James from MN asks:Hi Bill. Being a bow expert, I was wondering if you would mind explaining to me how draw weight (limb poundage) affects arrow speed. I shoot 70lbs now but only at 27.5" so I know I lose alot of speed because of the short D.L. so I am considering buying 80lb limbs to not only increase arrow speed, but also KE out of my set up. I shoot a large expandable broadhead so I figure the more speed/KE the better. I was wondering if going from 70 to 80lbs would be worth the extra effort in terms of gaining speed/KE?Winke Responds:James, It depends on each bow, but roughly you get about two feet per second for each pound you increase - possibly a bit more on some bows. You would add about 20 fps. However, it is not worth it if you can't handle the draw weight very easily and accurately. I would be leery of adding too much draw weight unless you know you are shooting well under your potential right now.
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Chris from OH asks:Hi Bill, your recent blog about human error and string quality and stretch, has me wondering. I always thought all bow strings would stretch initially, and have even heard things like a string needs to be shot hundreds of times before the string stops stretching. Is this true or do high quality strings really not stretch? Thanks for all you do for the sport. ChrisWinke Responds:Chris, Well-made strings now don't stretch nearly as much as they used to. In fact, I could almost say they don't stretch at all, but anytime you throw absolutes around, you end up boxing yourself into a corner. Literally, after just a few shots to settle the string, you can expect it to be stable for several years. But they have to be well-made. I have had excellent experiences with both Winner's Choice and now Fuse strings. They are good from the start. I have had less positive experiences with a few others.
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Reid from BC asks:Hey Bill, i am a young bow hunter and i was wondering if you had any ideas on how i can make my bow arm alot more steady for shooting Thanks, ReidWinke Responds:Reid, Steadiness comes down to four factors: 1. strength - you need to have strong archery muscles in order to relax them fully. That means you need to practice regularly. 2. relaxation - start from the ground up - relaxing your feet, legs, midsection etc. - every muscle that is not essential to holding the string back should be relaxed fully. Learn to use the muscles of your back to hold the string, that will allow you to relax your shoulder and arm. Relax your bow arm and bow hand. 3. Put a very slight bend in your bow arm so it acts as a shock absorber and is easier to relax. 4. when moving the pin around the target, use your hips to move it, not your bow arm. That will help you to keep the bow arm set in a relaxed position relative to your upper body. If you aren't moving your bow arm around independently of your upper body, you will be able to hold it much steadier. Now keep in mind that the pin doesen't have to be rock steady for you to shoot well. Squeeze the trigger as the bow floats and you will still make good shots. Don't try to time the shot, just squeeze and aim and you will be surprised how well you shoot. Good luck.
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mike from IL asks:bill fisrt off thanks for the show i look forward to watching it every monday evening after i get home from work. i just bought my girlfriend her first bow tonight. its not a top of the line bow but i think its going to fit her well for her first bow. anyways my question is shes having a hard time with the peep. she cant close one eye while haveing the other open. is there any tricks that can help her over come this problem. iv tried placeing my hand over her left eye and she does fine with the focusing then but when i remove it she doesnt. i was also thinking iv seen some people use a patch over one eye. she also suguested removing peep all together. i was just wondering what you think would be the best route to go. thanks for the advice and the show mikeWinke Responds:Mike, I would start with the patch. You should be able to find one online easy enough. I would not remove the peep at this point. I had to train myself to close one eye when I was a kid, so I am sure with some practice she can learn to do that. Now I squint my left eye without closing it altogether. I do that to limit its dominance in the sight picture without actually cutting down my field of view too much. Good luck.
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Jonathan from MN asks:Have you ever tried shooting any of the Gold Tip Pro series Arrows? The Ultralight X-Cutter Pro comes in a .250 spine recomended for 75 - 85 # bows. The Ultralight 30X Pro comes in a .200 spine recomended for 85 - 95 # bows. The Triple X Pro comes in a .150 spine will work for 95 - 100 # bows.Winke Responds:Jonathan, Thanks. That would be stiffer than what I am shooting right now (.300 spine with Easton FMJ and Axis). I am going to give them a try. Thanks for pointing that out to me. I did drop my draw weight by about 6 or 7 pounds to upper 70s and the arrow still tore tail left. I have come to the conclusion that it is a combination of my bow hand tension and shooting form. I haven't shot much since November, so I am sure I am a bit rusty. Good information.
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Jon from OH asks:Bill, Just wanted to ask you a question about the poundage you shoot. I've read many of your articles and you talk about the k. e. that the bows now produce. Just curious to why, especially having a longer draw length, that you shoot such a high poundage in a modern bow. Not knocking you man. As you have also said shoot the highest poundage that you feel comfortable with. I really take everything that you say almost biblical, and have reaped the rewards of doing so. Thanks for putting out such a great resource! JonWinke Responds:Jon, I just answered this same question for another viewer of the shows. Again, my way is not the best for everyone, but it makes perfect sense for me. Good luck.
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Chris from LA asks:Hi Bill...I've got a question about arrow flight. I used to only practice at 20 yds because all of our stands in La. were set up at battery powered corn feeders at 20 yds or less but since I've begun hunting the midwest I've moved out to 40 and 50. I'm hitting the bullseye and shooting a 3-4" group at 40 but I'm noticing it looks like my arrow seems to be "fishtailing"...I shoot a Mathews Outback with a 31 1/2" draw length with 400 gr. arrows. Should I change anything up if I'm hitting where I'm aiming or leave my rig the way it is?Winke Responds:Chris, You still need for the bow to be tuned perfectly. To accomplish that, you really need to understand the process. I can't go into it here, because the subject is just too broad. I do have a book about it in MW Gear section of the site, that you can buy. But I am not self-serving enough to think you can also find the same information (probably not from me) on the web by doing a search under "Bow Tuning". I would definitely want to get that bow tuned correctly. That will improve consistency with broadheads and will improve penetration on game. Good luck.
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John from MO asks:Bill, My son (Andrew) is 4 years old and I'm looking at getting him a bow. Andrew has a righthanded toy bow right now but he shoots it lefthanded. He throws a ball lefthanded. I would like your opinion on whether I should start my son out shooting right or lefthanded. I talked to a handful of people and got mixed reviews. My hunting partner actually is lefthanded and shoots a righthanded bow. There are not may youth bows out there that are lefthanded. I'm currently looking at the FUSE & Mini Genesis. I can't wait to watch your late season hunts. I have been praying for snow. Thanks for the helpWinke Responds:John, You need to figure which of his eyes is dominant. The way you do that most easily is to have him casually point at something across the room. Then cover his right eye and ask him if he is still pointing at it. If he is, he is left eye dominant. If not, right eye dominant. If he is left-eye dominant, I would have him shoot left handed, it will just make the process more instinctive. If he is right-eye dominant, I would switch him right now and would probably think about switching the way he throws right now too. I am no expert on that subject so you might want to talk to someone else, but it would sure seem to me he will be more accurate throwing with the same arm as his dominant eye. Good luck.
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John from MO asks:Congrats on the buck Bill...Im using a PSE with a 60 lb draw weight..and my question is would the rocket steelhead be a good combination with my bow?Winke Responds:John, It will do great. My scientific testing shows that it penetrates as well as three-blade fixed-blade broadheads. Good luck.
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Ken from NJ asks:My duaghter's bow keeps shooting low, I have adjusted her sights as far as possible what else can i do ???Winke Responds:Ken, You can move the peep sight up so that she has to anchor lower. That will bring the arrows back up again. Now is the time to do that before she gets too set in the way she shoots. Good luck.
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Jake from IA asks:Bill, Big fan of the show. I noticed you shoot off the string instead of using a loop. I was wondering if you could explain the benefits of both shooting off the string and a loop, and why you shoot off the string? Thanks - JakeWinke Responds:Jake, I just feel that I can get the shot off quicker this way if I have to. I have shot using a loop and always feel that I am clumsy getting it hooked up, especially on cold days when I am wearing gloves. That is the only reason. I believe the loop is slighly more accurate from a target shooting standpoint, but for bowhunting at normal distances out to 40 yards, I feel that I am plenty accurate going straight to the string. If I was doing a lot of target shooting, I would use the loop. Good luck.
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Scott from ON asks:Hi Bill, I absolutely love your site and its content. I own a 70lb draw weight Hoyt Magna Tec that I've had for 7-8 years. I draw 65lbs and only use it for deer hunting and I've never changed the string on it. Do you think I could improve the performance of my bow by changing it... if so, what should I be looking for in a string? I appreciate your comments, ScottWinke Responds:Scott, It may be time for a new string, but I would not expect a big bump in performance, possibly five to ten fps if the string you buy is lighter than the string you remove. If you don't need the new string (if is is not showing signs of wear), I would not buy a new one just in the hopes of making the bow faster. If you need a new string, then get a good one (I like Winner's Choice), but otherwise stick with what you have and save the money.
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mohammad ali from MI asks:hey bill, just one more question, sorry about that.When i want to range out the deer that i want to shoot,i might be a couple yards away from the distance i ranged, that's what I'm afraid of.I want to get a rangefinder but the position I'm in its not affordable so do you think i should measure 10,20,30 etc. yards and put a stick where they are so that i know how far to shoot, any ideas? thanks you so much. P.S: if there are any contests or giveaways of rangefinders, i will appreciate it!Winke Responds:Mohammad, That is what I used to do. I carried a notebook with me and when I set up a new stand I paced of the distance to many reference points around the stand and jotted them in the notebook and then everytime I hunted that stand I pulled that notebook out and re-memorized the distances. That works just fine and is pretty accurate if you pay attention to how far the deer is from each reference point.
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Mike from IL asks:I hate using a peep, with the small site window, low light and messy tubing. I would like to try a kisser button at the corner of the mouth, second anchor point with the string on the nose and one eye sighting. Eliminate the peep all together. Does anyone do this? Accurately? What do you think?Winke Responds:Mike, I don't think you will be as accurate that way as you would using a peep. There are other ways to set up a peep without the tubing and with a large diameter (1/4 inch) peep sight (G5 Meta peep). However, if you are bent on eliminating it all together, you can try something I used to do many years back. I wound a bit of white dental floss through the string and then wrapped about ten turns very tightly around the string and then tied that off with a whip-finish. (lay a loop down under about four wraps, slide the end through and pull it through). I then used this white blob as my reference point when aiming. I lined the pin up just above the blob and to the left of the string. It worked OK, better than having nothing on the string. However, not as good as a peep. There are also sights that elmininate the peep (such as the Hindsight and a few similar models). Whatever you decide to do, be very consistent and you will be fine for shorter shots. Good luck.
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Jarred from OH asks:Mr. Winke, Love the show. What do you think of the new roller guard Hoyt is featuring on the 2011 line-up? Is there anyway you can touch on it in a video review? Best of luck putting your tag on one of those brutes, Jarred BlackWinke Responds:Jarre, It makes a lot of sense to me. I never liked slides because they often wear and if they get wet they squeak. The roller is a better idea. It reduces moving parts too, for a slight improvement in efficiency.
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Ron from AL asks:Hi Bill, I shoot well, but hardly ever see my arrow fly to its mark. it bothers me because sometimes I question where I hit the deer.Can you give me any tips on seeing arrow flight and do you shoot with both eyes open.Im eager to find out and put it to use. Thank You for your time Bill, by the way great show. RonWinke Responds:Ron, I don't really see the arrow that much either. I focus on the spot I want to hit and then squeeze the trigger so the bow takes me by surprise. When you shoot that way, you have a hard time seeing the arrow until it is well away from the bow. I would rather shoot this way very accurately than to see the arrow and not shoot as well. So I will stick with it. You might try a lighted nock. That will help you see the arrow over the last few yards before impact, for sure. I shoot with my non-dominant eye (left) squinted to reduce its ability to interfere with the sight picture, but it still helps me to control shot timing on moving shots because I still have that wider field of view. Randy Ulmer recommends shooting with the left eye firmly closed so there is no chance for any changes in the sight picture from one shot to the next, but I have used my method for 15 years now and I think I do it the same way each time. I would practice both ways. I never liked shooting with both eyes open very well. I killed some deer that way, but I always feel a little panicked trying to pull the sight picture together at the last second. I think when I have to shoot quick I shoot with both eyes open. Good luck.
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jay from NY asks:Dear Bill.Your show is the best!I have a question .After broadheadtuning my bow is no longer lining up with lazer.Is this ok ?My bh (slick trick mags )are hitting with my fieldpoints out to 30yds.Winke Responds:Jay, If it ain't broke don't fix it. In other words, the proof is in the way it shoots so if it is shooting dead-on don't change a thing. Laser tuning is a nice method, but not as important as actual performance and accuracy in the field where it counts. Sounds like you have a great setup there. Congrats. Good luck.
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mohammad ali from MI asks:hey bill i wanted to ask you a question about my string, since i increased my draw length, every time i shoot the string hits my forearm but i had to increase my draw length so my elbow wouldn't be bent which would decrease the amount of pressure on my hand and put it in my back muscles, so why does the string hit my forearm.Winke Responds:Mohammad, Not sure I agree with the logic for incrasing the draw length 100%. Many very good archers shoot with a slightly bent bow arm. Probably the reason you are hitting your forearm is related to how you position your hand on the grip, how you have your elbow rotated and the actual draw length you are using. You should press the point where the lines in your palm converge against the back of the grip. Roll your elbow up and out slightly to clear the string and then put a very slight bend in the elbow, just enough to unlock it. Now, if when doing all this, your release hand is back behind your ear, rather than right under it, your draw length is likely too long.
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Chad from MO asks:Hey, Bill, what is better for whitetail hunting: pure speed or pure accuracy? I have two different bows: one with a 7 1/2" b.h., arrow speed of 270 and one with a 6" b.h., and arrow speed of 292. At 20-30 yards , my shooting is the same. It is 40 and beyond, it seems that I'm slightly more accurate with the greater b.h.. I like the extra speed , but it is nice to have vanes touching at 40 yards. I'm guessing my needs to be better with the short b.h. bow.Winke Responds:Chad, I like bows with 7 inch brace heights - a good compromise. I shoot about 300 fps at 32 inch draw and 80 pounds. So I get the speed through higher draw weight and longer draw length rather than a low brace. However, if you practice a lot and have good form, you can get to where you shoot the low braced bows nearly as well as the higher braced bows. I personally like the speed too, but I guess as long as I have a rangefinder and large enough shooting windows (not shooting through small holes) I would probably go with pure acccuracy over pure speed. If I am shooting wired deer that jump the string a lot, I would probably go with pure speed as that will reduce the variables slightly in figuring out where to aim at the string jumpers (you don't have to aim as low so you have a better chance of making a good hit on deer that don't drop as much as others. Good luck
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Eric from WI asks:Bill Last season you made a valuable observation after having two bucks 'duck' your arrows(I feel your heartache); you estimated that with archery shots beyond 20 yards, there is a possibility of the deer 'ducking' the arrow. To make your observation a little more useful, what arrow speed were you shooting last year? Thank You and God blessWinke Responds:Eric, I was shooting about 290 fps. I have since speeded by arrows up to around 305 fps. I doubt it will make much difference, but I needed new arrows anyway so I went a touch lighter. Good luck.
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chuck from AR asks:Bill, thanks for all you do for the everyday bowhunter! I would like to know what type of broadhead wrench you use to tighten my rocket steelhead 100 gr. The reg. plastic wrench that I have used on fixed blade heads for years seem to slip when I put pressure on the rocket head. Exited to use these heads and see what they will do. I also want to thank you for your Pastor Paul segments.I enjoy him very much. Keep up the good work.Winke Responds:Chuck, I am happy to help. I just finger tighten them. That has never been a problem for me in many years of using them. Pastor Paul does an excellent job. I am very happy to have him as part of the team here. Thanks for your support. I really appreciate it.
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I am experiencing pain in my elbow and forearm; could it be that I am shooting too much draw weight?Matt from IL asks:Mr. Winke, I have been shooting on a regular basis since June at 64 lbs. I turned up my draw weight to 70lbs. about 3 weeks ago to build my strength with my plan to drop back to my original draw weight a week before the season. With that said a few days ago I developed some soreness in my left elbow and forearm. Could this be caused by excessive shooting and or to much draw weight? It has been 2 days since my last practice session and still have the soreness. What are your thoughts?? I know you are not a doctor, have you or your staff experienced anything like this? Thank you for your help, good hunting and God Bless, MattWinke Responds:Matt, We have not seen that. What I experience is rotator cuff problems if I shoot too often with too much draw weight. I am not sure what caused it, but I think if you are planning to hunt at 64 pounds, it is probably time to turn the bow back down to 64 pounds and make sure you are comfortable at that weight. If not, you may want to see a doctor. There are too many things going on in the human body for me to understand them all. Having played a lot of sports as a young man, I realize you can easily play through the pain, but it is best to get an expert's opinion before you assume that the problem is minor. Good luck.
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Steve from PA asks:Bill, Thanks again for keeping Midwest going. I truly believe that this is how a hunting show should be!! I am currently shooting a Diamond the Rock at 62 lbs. I'm concerned that my arrows are too light to get good penetration. They are Carbon Express terminator lite selects, the shaft is 25 1/8" long with 75gr muzzy three blades. If i figure correctly I am at about 313gr total. Do you think this is enough? Thanks again for all you do!Winke Responds:Steve, That is a little light. You are right at 5 grains per pound of draw force. Probably good for summer 3-D shooting, but unless you take longer shots often or have a particular problem with shooting through small holes in the brush or you encounter serious string jumping, you would likely be better served as a whitetail hunter with something weighing closer to 6 grains or 6 1/2 grains per pound. In other words, something in 370 to 400 grains total weight range would soak up more of the bow's energy and produce quieter shooting. It is a little bit like splitting hairs, but I just don't like to shoot that light because I feel that it produces a lot energy that is left over in the bow after the arrow is gone that the bow and accessories must dissipate (that occurs as vibration) and that vibration can do damage over the long haul. The closer you get to a dry fire, the harder you are on your bow and accessories. So, if it were me, I would add another 75 to 100 grains to that arrow weight. Good luck.
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Aaron from PA asks:Hi Bill. I just wanted to add a note about the use of string loops. I use a D loop on my string for one reason. If a bow is drawn and let down without a loop the arrow nock will unclip from the string and only very loosly hold on. A short ATA bow will intensify this effect. If you attempt to draw a second time without re-seating the arrow it can simply fall off the bow and rattle off every branch on its way to the ground. Unfortunately I have seen this first hand and the deer I was drawing on took notice. Drawing and letting down with a D loop allows the arrow nock to remain fully seated on the string. Thank you for all of your work on the shows and this site. Your preseason content helps rachet up the anticipation and in-season it will act as a fair substitute on days that I can't hunt. Thank you again. AaronWinke Responds:Aaron, That is a good point and I have to keep a close eye on that since I have a 32 inch draw so my string angle is even sharper at full draw. However, the modern nocks at least keep the arrow arrow from pinching off at full draw. In the old days, I used to have trouble with arrows actually pinching off the string at full draw! I found a variety of nocks that worked and then just used them, but most of today's standard nocks will keep the arrow on the string at least until you let down. As you note, if you aren't using a string loop, be sure to reseat the arrow before drawing again or it will likely pinch off the string. Thanks for the tip. Good luck.
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dave from NY asks:Bill, Over the past few weeks I have been not shooting as well as I did in Mid summer. I have not been comfortable in my anchor points. What I just noticed after pulling my hair out for 2 weeks is that my string loop has stretched about a half inch over the summer. I fixed the problem and all is well. Maybe they should prestretch string loop material as they do bow strings. Just recently you answered a question as to why you shoot off the string vs. a loop. You can add string loops stretch to your ammunition box. Thanks for all the great work and entertainment your show offers.Winke Responds:Dave, That is a good point. I had not thought of that as a negative to string loops, but it certainly is a variable you don't want to deal with. My guess is that some cording is better than others. I have used the stuff made by BCY and it seems to hold its length very well. Once the knot is well set, the loop doesn't change length. You may want to look into getting some of their loop cord. Good luck.
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Jarvis from KY asks:I see that you do not use a wrist sling when you shoot.I was wondering why you dont use one when i have read a lot of shooting articles that say to use one so the bow wont jump out of your hand and you can shoot with a relaxed grip.I use one myself but i am wondering if it something i can remove just to take some movement out of me getting my bow in my hand and make it a little quicker as well.Winke Responds:Jarvis, I don't use it because I don't want to take the time to get a gloved hand into a sling before taking a quick shot. A sling is only useful if it is snug and as such it requires some hand manuevering to get situated. The Hoyts have a narrow riser section at the grip and I can easily wrap my fingers all the way around the riser without having to squeeze them tightly. Also, today's good bows don't jump much due to the parallel limbs, so that also reduces the problem. I do shoot with a surprise release, but the Hoyt doesn't jump from my hand as long as I wrap the fingers around the riser in a relaxed manner. When I shoot older vintage bows, they do sometimes jump right through my fingers and hit the ground! Good luck.
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Joseph from IL asks:Just got done watching your September 13 show and noticed in your shooting section that you did not use a D-loop. I was wondering why?Winke Responds:Joseph, I feel like I am faster in getting my release connected with the caliper release and then attaching straight to the string. I used a string loop for a season but always felt like if buck fever hit me and I had to act fast, I was likely to miss the loop. I am sure that a loop is slightly more accurate and consistent but I shoot well enough at whitetail ranges (out to about 40 - 45 yards for me) that getting hooked up fast is a greater priority than tack driving accuracy at longer distances. Many people favor the loop, but I like to keep the bow idiot-proof because I am certain that at times (when a big buck surprises me) I might act like an idiot. Good luck.
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kenny from PA asks:is 40 lb draw weight enough to kill a deer if u shoot it through the heart?Winke Responds:Kenny, No problem. Our son Andrew killed a small buck with a 24 pound bow last season. You have to hit them in the right place and use a cut on impact two-blade head like the Bear Razorhead to get the most possible penetration. Just make sure of the legal minimum draw weight for your state. We don't have a minimum here. I talked with the Game Warden about it before Andrew went out and he said he was sure the bow would do the job and he was right. Good luck.
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Dan from MN asks:I was wondering your opinions on a bow’s brace height. It seems like every bow company out there is now offering "speed bows" that have brace heights that are 6" or less. Do you think is worth losing some forgiveness in a bow to gain the extra speed? What is the shortest brace hight you recommend to shoot?Winke Responds:Dan, I have always liked bows with a 7 inch brace height, it strikes me as a good compromise between speed and forgiveness. It is middle of the road. I have shot a number of the fast, low braced bows and some of them are very good. The string stoppers have really made those bows more manageable. In the past they always seemed to hit my wrist or slap my sleeve. It is less likely now with the string stoppers. If you have good shooting form, you won't notice a lot of difference in accuracy at normal bowhunting distances with a brace height down to 6 inches. I am just a bit old school I guess and stick with slightly longer braced bows. Speed is a very good thing as long as you don't have to give up pure target range accuracy to get it. Again, it depends on how good your shooting form is and how much you practice.
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Tracy from IA asks:Hi Bill, another question for you. I just bought a new set of bow strings and cables form Extreme Bowstrings, and I was installing them on my bow when I had a mishap. I was singeing the end of the serving for my peep sight, and I got a little careless and caught the string a bit, and burned through two of the little strands that make up each main strand. Will my bow still be safe? Thanks, TracyWinke Responds:Tracy, I would replace it. I know that is not the answer you want to hear, but effectively you have killed four strands because the strands are looped and since you cut two of them, the other side of the loop will be carrying less load too. I would replace it. I never singe my servings for that very reason. I would surely do the same thing more often than not.
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Ben from VA asks:Hi Bill. Have you ever had any issues with the NAP QuickFletch cresting bubbling? I have some tiny bubbles where the vane meets the cresting, and am a little concerned about arrow flight? Could the bubbles play into any variation in flight? I am shooting QuickSpins (2 inch) on Easton ST Axis 340's, 29" arrows at 68 pounds. You are the absolute man! for keeping this great show running.Winke Responds:Ben, I have not had that happen, but I have to admit I have not used cresting very often. I wonder if you could pop those bubbles with a pin and then possibly glue the cresting down? Either way, I would not think that would play into the aerodynamics enough to make much difference unless it is really severe and the shots are pretty long. As long as you have a helical fletching (the QuickSpins spin the arrows without helical), the spin has a way of equalizing a lot of otherwise damaging factors contributing to arrow flight. That is a good fletching/shaft combination. I shot the 2 in. QuickSpins and Axis N-Fused last year and was very happy with the results. I was using a mechanical head, for the record.
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Brian from MO asks:Hi Bill, While aiming when using back tension do you push forward with your hand that is on the riser to steady the bow? I have studied you and Randy Ulmer shooting and it looks as though you both are. What I mean by that is that after the shot is fired your bow moves signifintly. Some people you see shoot obviously hold the bow hand steady so the bow rolls forward. Which is correct? ThanksWinke Responds:Brian, I am not sure if Randy uses an active push method. I have found that I shoot best if I use a static method. I am not physically pushing as much as I am just holding the position. The bow jumps forward because I make no effort (there isn't time to react) to keep from jumping forward. It is a natural thing that happens without any effort. I believe the correct method is for the bow to jump forward at the shot. If the shot takes you by surprise, you won't have time to do anything but let it jump. My approach is to let the bow shoot the arrow. My job is just to find the most consistent grip, get relaxed and keep the pin as close to the spot as possible while I wait for the bow to go off. If I do that, everything else takes care of itself. Just aim and wait, while the trigger finger applies tension at the same rate every time - not mindful of where the pin is. In other words, if you adjust your trigger squeeze based on the pin position, you are still going to be fighting target panic and not shooting to your potential. If using a pure back tension release, the trigger mechanism is obviously different, but the approach is the same - aim and wait.
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Heath from KS asks:Bill, Really look forward to the new season. I just took a picture off of my trail camera of the biggest buck I have ever seen on the farm I hunt. Can't wait for October! I have my arrows grouping well with field points for all of my pins, and I'm shooting bullet holes through paper. I tried shooting my Muzzy's. They don't hit where the field points do, but they are consistent. I plan to move my sight to where the Muzzy's are hitting, will I have to move the 30 and 40 yard pin as well? ThanksWinke Responds:Heath, I would guess that you will probably have to tweak each pin a little bit. Just moving the entire sight body to get the 20 yard pin back in the center will help a lot, but I suspect that you will need to adjust each pin just slightly. Good luck and thanks for your support.
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Jack from MI asks:Dear bill, I love the show an appreciate everything that you are doing to try and promote the sport of hunting. Last week I was watching the outdoor channel and saw u kill a massive buck on the milk river back in the 90's. Just thought it was pretty neat. I have had a bowtech tomcat for five years now and the string is just not in the shape it used to be . Do you have an opinion on a durable replacement string? If so I'd love to hear what u have to say about them. Thanks, jackWinke Responds:Jack, Thanks for your support. I think I ended up killing two deer on the Milk River in three trips. It is a really cool place to hunt. We stayed right in a Rancher's house and his wife fed us. I think the first trip was in 1993 or 1994 - the first year that Realtree hunted that area. There were 14 hunters in camp and I think 7 or 8 cameramen. That was the first time I met Michael Waddell, he had just been hired on and was filming Judd Cooney or Harold Knight, I think. He was wet behind the ears but already very funny. We pulled one on Judd in camp. If you don't know Judd, he is very crusty and as funny as anyone you can ever imagine. He loves to dish it out. We put a little skit together where several of us imitated Judd's mannerisms, filmed it and then that evening called Judd into the TV room to help us "figure out if the hit one of the hunters had made was a good one." Judd of course was feeling all puffed up that we wanted his opinion, then we played that skit on the TV. Man, I have never seen a person's face drop or heard more laughter from 20 people. What a blast. As I remember it, 14 hunters killed 13 solid P & Y class bucks in a five day hunt. Every day, we had a couple of blood trails to follow. Nothing huge that year, but I think Bob Foulkrod shot something in the 150s - that being the largest. OK, enough from memory lane. I like Winner's Choice strings, but there are also several other custom string makers in the market now. Good luck.
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jusme from LA asks:i have a matthews outback it was quiet but now it's loud whats the cause of thisWinke Responds:Jusme, Usually that means that something is loose, one of the accessories usually. Go around and check everything. Twang the string as you listen closely for the source of the rattle. Once you get it tightened back down it should be quiet again. Good luck.
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evan from IL asks:hey, so i was shooting my bow yesterday and i got off about 15-20 shots. then all of a sudden my trigger wouldn't work. i pulled it back 3 times n tried but it wouldn't go. i finally just gave up because i didnt want to lose an arrow! do you think it could just be that i need to oil the trigger or something or what would make a trigger do that!? its never happened to me before and i've never heard of it happening to others...Winke Responds:Evan, Sounds to me like something broke. I would try oiling it and see what happens, but my guess is that it probably didn't seize up right in the middle of a shooting session. You may be in the market for a new release.
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Sabin from MN asks:Hey Bill, for the longest time I have been having trouble with consistency, never being able to figure out what it was now i know for sure that I am "pulling" my shot off by pulling the trigger. So recently I have really been working on my trigger squeeze. I know instantly when I "pull" the trigger that my shot will be off. Therefore, thank you for all the advice it has been very helpful, but I do have a question. Every time I squeeze the trigger and the shot is good, somehow I end up ripping the skin off my left forearm, even if I remind myself to bend out my elbow a little bit. I never had this problem at all before. Do you know of a reason why this is happening, and if so is their any other solution besides putting on one of those arm guards? Thanks SabinWinke Responds:Sabin, I am thinking that you must have your bow arm rotated toward the bow or you are gripping the bow too deeply in your hand. The pressure point between the grip and your hand should be right in line with the bones of your forearm (roughly at the point where your lifelines meet in your hand). That should move the bow a bit away from your arm. Rotating the bow arm outward (clockwise for a right handed shooter) will help to clear the string too. Finally, you may want to try a string stopper. If your bow doesn't have one, consider adding one. Check with the customer service department at your bow's mfg and see if they have one you can purchase or if they can recommend an after-market model. Good luck.
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cameron from AB asks:Hi Bill I have a question about peep sights for hunting, I notice you guys use the G5 peep sight or similar style on you bows. Ive tried those in the past and they work great in early season when its warm but when it gets cold I notice the the peep deosnt fully turn or turns too much.Is it just me or do you guys have that problem too?Winke Responds:Cameron, I think that is just you. You may need to play with the amount of twists on the string and also where the peep starts out (half twists) before you draw the string back to assure it is coming back the same each time. I have used that style peep for many years and have never had an issue related to temperature (other than in the old Fast Flight string days when the strings would stretch when left in a hot car, etc.) Today's strings are much more stable and once I get the peep set at the start of the season, it never gives me problems again unless something happens to the string itself. Good luck.
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Alex from OH asks:Hello Mr. Winke hows the off season going? I was wondering if bowstrings make a big difference when it comes to speed and what type do u like using? Thanks, AlexWinke Responds:Alex, It has been busy around here getting organized for this fall and also writing and shooting photos. I like strings that don't stretch. Fuse makes some very good custom strings. I have also used strings from Winner's Choice. I have never made my own strings, but my dad does make his own strings. It isn't particularly hard but I just don't have the time. Therefore, I rely on the experts at these companies to select the best materials from which to build the strings. I used to have all kinds of string problems, but now I rarely do.
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Mohammad Ali from MI asks:i have a bow and i would like to know what tubing is also do i need to put some type of lubricant or wax other than the bowstring wax?Winke Responds:The tubing is a rubber surgical tubing that some peep sights use to make sure they turn back square to your eye at full draw. You don't really need to wax or lubricate anything but the string occassionally (wax it).
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Eric from NY asks:Bill, Your website keeps getting better! Keep up the great work. I just wanted to post something off NAP's website regarding fletching the quikspin vanes. In a previous Q&A you recommended shooting the vanes w/ a helical. I was told not to use a helical, so I looked it up on their website... Which way should I fletch the Quikspin? The Quikspin is designed to be fletched dead straight to a slight right hand straight offset. DO NOT fletch them helical. A dead straight vane will stabilize the arrow better than a helical feather and work extremely well from 20 yards to 100 yards. Some people do fletch them with a slight RH offset, that’s also excellent for people shooting 20 to 40 yards I'd be curious if you think they do work better than an offset? ThanksWinke Responds:Eric, Maybe I need to read the directions! I always have just used the same helical offset that I used when fletching other vanes and they worked great. I would probably use the offset. I am a big fan of getting them to spin as quickly after they leave the bow as possible. Thanks for pointing that out. I'll have to do a bit of experimenting now.
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Jarred from OH asks:Mr. Winke, I currently use the NAP Quickspin vanes (both 2&4 inch). Would I gain additional accuracy by fletching either of these with right helical, or do these vanes cancel that method out? Love the show and keep up the great work!!Winke Responds:Jarred, You definitely want to use right helical with those vanes. That is my exact setup - I use both lengths. I felt like the longer ones were slightly more stable, but that may have just been perception creating reality. Last season I shot N-Fused Axis with the short Quik Spins and they were very accurate from the AlphaMax. They will not cancel out the spin if you use right helical.
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Jay from NY asks:Dear Mr.Winke .After 18 yrs of bowhunting ive been stricken with severe target panic.I was up until a month ago smackin arrow on arrow at 20yds and 30yds.Now I cant even put my pin on the bullseye.It gets below it and there it stays until i panic and throw/yank/and jerk my trigger.I was thinking of trying a thumb release.Ive always been an index shooter.Id like too try a tru ball pro diamond extreme .Do you know of a good back tension as well that would be compatible.Where do you anchor with a thumb release.Thanks in advance for the help!You have a awesome website and enjoy your articles.Winke Responds:Jay, Thanks for the support. The back tension release will surely solve the problem to the point where you can go back to your index trigger release in time to get the feel back before hunting. I did that a couple of summers about ten years ago and it pretty much cured my target panic. It was the best thing I have ever done as an archer. I like the Tru Ball products and their back tension releases (even their simple spike style) will definitely get the job done. After shooting the back tension release for the summer you will be amazed by well you can shoot the index trigger release again simply by squeezing the trigger. I simply anchor by turning my hand thumb down and press the fist into the back of my jawbone with the back tension release. I keep the peep sight in the same place as it was when shooting the trigger release so the transition is very painless. Good luck - what you are considering doing is something that every serious bowhunter/archer should do.
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Colton from IA asks:Hey Bill I love the show. I just got into bowhunting and I was wondering what the difference is between the 4 in. Vanes for arrows and the shorter 2 in. Vanes and what are some pros and cons of each of them?Winke Responds:Colton, They will both do a good job on arrows that are well-tuned. In fact, you really don't need a lot of fletching when shooting a tuned arrow because it doesn't need the stability that an arrow needs if it comes from the bow flying sideways at all. Short vanes reduce sideways wind-drift when shooting in a crosswind. That can be a factor for some bowhunters. Four-inch vanes are more conservative, will work under all conditions but are bit slower and take a beating when going through a Whisker Biscuit. So if you are using a Biscuit, consider the shorter vanes. When using a drop away rest, either style will work fine and the longer vanes are more conservative and are probably the better overall choice since you likely won't have to worry about crosswind drift when hunting the timbered wood lots of Iowa. However, if you plan to hunt out west, taking long shots across open areas, the shorter vanes will reduce drift ane are the better choice. I hope that helps.
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Brandon from WI asks:Hi Bill - I had an unfortunate experience with my local bow tech, and long story short, I won't be going back. I was wondering, what's the best way to gain info on how to become a bow technician? Are there classes you can take? Is it just starting at a local shop and soaking up knowledge? My county is grossly underserved and I've taken to the idea of possibly doing something like this out of the basement and possibly farther if it takes off. Any thoughts?Winke Responds:Brandon, There is no clear course on this. I learned basically by trial and error. There are a few videos you can look at. I think Robinhood Archery still has some good stuff (www.robinhoodarchery.com) and also any books or videos by Larry Wise are a good place to start. I wrote a fairly comprehensive book on the subject for Petersen's Bowhunting called "Setting Up the Perfect Hunting Bow" and you can buy that at Amazon.com. Good luck, sounds like a mission well worth undertaking.
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Jon from MN asks:The stabilizer I have on my Mighty Mite recently started making some noise when I fire it. I have been looking around at new ones. What significance does the weight and length of the stabilizer have on the bow performance? I know a couple people who don't use one at all. Thanks!Winke Responds:Jon, You can definitely get by without a stabilizer. They help to balance the bow slightly if it tends to tip back and they can also serve to absorb some vibration if they are mounted to bow using a flexible mount. I have seen the vibration testing to prove that. Hunting length stabilizers don't do much to actually stabilize a bow. However, the long target stabilizers actually do serve that purpose. If the bow is pretty well balanced, you don't need a stabilizer.
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Shane from TN asks:Bill, I read somewhere the other day that for a deer to qualify for Pope & Young ,you couldn't use a lighted nock.do you know if this is true. Also does your bow have to be 65 % letoff or less ,not 80 % like most bows are set at to day. Thanks, Shane TidwellWinke Responds:Shane, I've kind of lost track of that stuff. I used to follow it closely, but I would be shocked if the lighted nock would be a factor. They changed the letoff allowance to 80% a few years ago. I hope that helps.
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Landon from IL asks:Bill,I can't tell you how much I enjoyed your show.The hunts were great and I loved how you and the rest of the team gave advice and showed us how you planned your hunts. I'm 17 and for the most part,have to teach myself when it comes to hunting techniques.Your show was very helpful to me.My question has to do with eye dominance.In January '08,I got a bow.I'm left-eyed,but right handed.So I bought a left-handed one.When I was younger,I didn't know I was left-eyed and always shot guns right handed and never had a problem using my right eye.Do you think I should shoot guns left handed also? Going back to bows,I've practiced a lot and my target is pretty beat up and won't be useful for much longer.I've had my eye on the BLOCK 4x4 for a while,but I recently heard some negative things about its quality.Have you had any experience with these targets?Also,are there any archery targets that you recommend and what kind do you use?Thanks.By the way,the website is great. LandonWinke Responds:Landon, Thanks for your support. I have been using the multi-layer Block targets most of the time. I don't shoot broadheads into them. I think I have a Merrell broadhead target. The Block should take a lot of abuse for you, at least a year of shooting. If you are shooting the gun well right-handed I wouldn't switch. I would, however, make sure that you are shooting with your non-dominant eye closed or at least squinted. That will definitely help. Good luck. Bill
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Mike from NJ asks:Hey Bill love your internet show, sorry to see the season come to a close. I have a couple of questions concerning kisser buttons and peepsights. I'm setting up a new bow (A Katera) and wanted to know if I need a kisser button along with a peepsight. I realize the kisser is one more point of contact to help you anchor the same everytime but if your sight pins are lining up in the peep everytime why use the kisser button? Also won't it catch on a face mask? My other question concerns the peepsight. When looking through it at full draw should the entire sight be visible or just the particular pin you are using at that time. Thanks for your help and keep up the great work.Winke Responds:Mike, Thanks for your support. You don't need both a kisser and a peep. The peep will be sufficient. As relates to peep sight diameter, there is a lot to consider here. I will tell you how I set up a bow and then I will tell you how Randy Ulmer sets up a bow. They are completely different for completely different goals, but both make sense in their context. I want maximum visibility through the peep for low light shooting and a wide a field of view so I can see a deer as it approaches my shooting lane. I use huge peeps such as the G5 models that are 1/4 and even 5/16 inch in diameter. I center the entire sight body in the peep, not just the pin. That way I still maintain precision with a large peep, but you have to be using a round pin guard for that to work. Randy wants maximum accuracy and is most interested in western game and he will use a smaller peep and center the individual pin he is using. The small peeps also produces a larger depth of field (both the pin and the target are in focus) whereas with my system you have to choose between whether the pin is in focus or the target. I always focus on the target. Two styles with two different goals. Let me put it this way, I'm not planning to change my system, so that should tell you which way I vote. Good luck. Bill
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Paul from NY asks:Hey Bill, Great job on the show!just catching up on the last few episodes.I have a question regarding a piece of your personal gear.Who makes the hat you are wearing and do you know where I can find one? Keep up the good work and KNOCK EM DOWN! Thanks, Paul R. Syracuse, Ny.Winke Responds:Paul, That is funny. Most people think it is the ugliest hat in the world and I can't argue with them. I used to make a product in conjunction with Cabela's. It was a scent control suit. That hat was part of that system. It is pretty warm and has a bill to keep the sun off my eyes. That is about all the good I can say about it. Thanks for your support. Bill
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Kyle from MI asks:Bill i absolutley love your show,you are an absolute role model of what the midwestern whitetail bowhunter should be,I havent missed an episode since summer but i have a question for you. i just bought a hoyt alphamax the other day and bought easton full metal jacket arrows. when they both arrived in the mail i realized just how small the diameter of the arrow is and they do not fit into my quiver i see that you also shoot the full metal jacket and was wondering what kind of quiver you have or what i could do to make mine fit? thanks a lot, KyleWinke Responds:Kyle, Unless you can snap that arrow into a separate set of holders in the quiver (most of the newer quivers have a two-stage gripper for both alum. and carbon) I would probably go buy a new quiver and take the arrows with you when you do. The Hoyt quiver holds them pretty tight, so that is a good option. Others might work well too. Good luck. Bill
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Mark from GA asks:Dear Bill, First let me start off by saying I love the show,you hunt off of your farm or lease and you dont go to these expensive outfitters that only a small fraction of the hunting population can afford to visit.By watching your show I've learned alot.The only thing I have ever learned by watching the other big named shows is that if you have lots of money you too can travel the country and kill big deer. Keep up the good work.I have a question about the brown gloves that you have on every time you touch your bow. Is this a scent control issue or is it more of a practice the way you hunt by shooting with gloves on?Winke Responds:Thanks for your support. That is a good question. I wear a fresh pair of gloves every time I go out. I don't want to touch my outerwear with my bare hands so I always have a fresh pair of cheap jersey gloves. I just wash them and grab another pair every time I go out, so I don't contaminate my hunting clothes. I practice all summer in the jersey gloves too, because they help me get into the grip without my skin grabbing the grip. I appreciate your comments. Good luck hunting. Bill
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Tim from KS asks:Bill, I'm trying to decide on the best clothing/gear for bowhunting during the rut here in Iowa when it's usually moderately cold and windy. It seems that when I layer my clothing for warmth, things are bunched up and too bulky--I feel like the Michelen Man. What are your choices for hat/facemask, gloves, and clothing that allow both warmth and flexibility?Winke Responds:I still wear a product I developed for Cabela's a number of years ago, but it is no longer on the market. The key is to have something that is windproof. This past season taught us the value of being windproof. It was the windiest year I have ever hunted. Toward that goal, I would look at some of the parka and bib combos at Cabela's and Bass Pro, etc. that are made with a fairly tight weave or a lining that keeps the wind out. Wool is nice but not necessary. I would definitely have a warm facemask and a warm stocking style hat. I wear thin jersey gloves and keep my hands in my pockets most of the time. Boots: true pac boots are often hard to walk in so I like the Cordura lace-up style boots with thick liners. They are very warm. If it gets really brutal - like during the late season - I use overboots, but many people simply slip a small set of handwarmers into their boots. I hope that helps.
