Tuning & Setup
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Josh from OH asks:Hi Mr Winke, Love the show, both the enertainment part and the practical/advice part. What would you recomend for a low k/e bow, the 100 gr Steelhead w/ 1 1/8 in cut, or the 75 gr Miniblaster w/ 1 3/4 in cut? ThanksWinke Responds:Josh, I have done a lot of testing with the Steelhead over the years and I think it is an excellent penetrating head. I have not tested the Miniblaster, but for the low poundage I would definitely go with the smaller cutting diameter of the Steelhead 100. Good luck. (5-2-12)
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John from KS asks:Hi Bill, I am shooting a 73 lb 29inch bow with an easton axis n-fused arrow. With a 100grain tip my arrow weighs roughly 405 grains and is shooting 293 fps. I know you recommend 6 grains per pound, which I could achieve by using a 125 grain tip, but I'm afraid it would drop my speed and I wouldn't be shooting as flat. Do you think a 8-10fps drop in speed would affect my trajectory a lot? Thanks for your help! -JohnWinke Responds:John, I think you are splitting hairs now. I would stick with what you have. The 6 grains per pound is a rough starting point. I think I am a bit under that right now too. I think it is a good comppromise for most whitetail hunters, but if you are trying to achieve a certain result (such as a flat trajectory) you will have to adjust slightly. Also, you are getting plenty of penetration energy from that rig, and as long as it is not too loud (which it likely isn't) the arrow weight you are shooting won't beat up your bow too much and is a good choice. I wouoldn't change it. Good luck. (4-24-12)
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Matt from MN asks:Hi and thanks for a great show. I have 2 questions for you. (1)I have never seen any of your pro staff or you talk about or use any doe in heat or other attractant. (2) I just bought a new bow for the first time in 13 years (Bow Tech Insanity cpx) is it common to be able to hear your arrows fly through the air at 45 yards and beyond with these new speed bows. Thanks for your time MattWinke Responds:Matt, It is possible that many of the pro staff don't use scents. Also, because we don't have a scent sponsor, they may be using it and just not filming it because they don't fee it adds value to the show. My guess is that many of them simply don't use it. For sure the news bows are much faster. What you are likely hearing is your fletching flapping, cutting the air and making noise. Sometimes it is because the fletchings are slightly damaged and flapping or buzzing. You can find quieter fletching in the form of some of the shorter, stiffer models like the Bohning Blazer and others that are similar. If you spin an arrow fast with helical fletching it will make some noise as the air cuts across the fletching, and the faster you shoot, the louder it gets. That is just natural, but you can likely reduce this with different fletching. Good luck. (4-21-12)
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Dustin from IL asks:Bill, I just bought the new hoyt vector 32. I shoot gold tip hunter xt 5575 arrows and am trying to get the bow tuned. keep getting a left tear. Tried adjusting the rest to get it out but it still is the same. Am i doing something wrong or is their anything else to try. I know cam lean can have an effect on this but as of right now i don't have a bow press to be able to twist or untwist the cables. thanks.Winke Responds:Dustin, If you are shooting a drop-away rest, sometimes they will cause a tail left tear if you have the cord too tight. Also, be sure the draw length is not set too long. You want to make sure that your release elbow is pointing straight away from the target and not behind you where you would be applying side pressure on the string with your release. That is a common problem. Also, experiment with slight changes in the way you grip the bow to see if that makes a difference. Final test, check to see if the top cam is lined up with the string at full draw (not tipping). If it is tipping, use a bow press to take the tension off the string and harness and put a couple of twists in the harness yoke (they span the top limb) that would pull the limb tip around so it is straight up and down. Sounds like a big project, but if you see that the cam is leaning you might want to get help from an archery shop. All the rest of those you can do yourself. All of these will affect the side-to-side arrow flight. Good luck. (4-19-12)
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Sean from FL asks:Bill, Thanks for all the great info. I need help with getting the best flight out a fixed blade BH. Can u go through the tuning process of the bow as well as spine selection, arrow straightness, etc. Also, how important is it to have the vanes and BH blades aligned? And how is this best accomplished? Thanks for everything. SeanWinke Responds:Sean, I may need to produce an episode about this. It is too much for the Ask Winke section. To answer your last question, it can help to align them if the bow is not tuned perfectly, that way all the arrows plane off line the same way. You do by screwing the broadhead into the insert before you glue it into the carbon shaft and then rotate it as you put it in until aligned. You will have to use the same head with that arrow each time in the future. Other option is to use a small O-ring on broadhead ferrule and then as you screw it in you have some ability to adjust how far you screw the head into the shaft because you will be compressing the O-ring to keep the head tight in place. Best method is match the head to the shaft when installing the inserts. Good luck. (4-17-12)
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Ron from AL asks:Hi Bill, when using a facemask while bowhunting do you sight your bow in with it on,never really used one,but in colder weather it sure would keep you more comfortable.thanks for a great website and showsWinke Responds:Ron, I would at least try it a few times before hunting. You may not need to change your sight-in, but you do need to get used to it and check to see if it affects impact point. Thick facemasks are more likley to affect impact and anchor point than thin ones. Thanks for the support. (4-17-12)
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Sean from FL asks:I shoot 100 grain broadheads on a 29.5 inch Easton Axis 340 out of aCarbon Element @70 pounds. Would I have good arrow flight if I bumped my broadhead up to 125 grains? Also, what is your opinion on trophy taker shuttle T broadheads? Thanks for the help. SeanWinke Responds:Sean, I doubt you will notice the difference in arrow flight on that. Very slight difference in speed and balance point so the impact point may change at longer distances, but likely the arrow flight (tuning) will be unchanged. I have not shot the Shuttle T recently, but shot them before Trophy Taker purchased the company. They fly well and penetrate well. I know a few friends who shoot them and they like them. Good luck. (4-11-12)
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don blish from AL asks:I am 6'2" tall and have a 30.5 in draw. would it be better for me to shoot a bow with an a to a that is 35" or a 32" ? Or is it just really preference? thank you.Winke Responds:Don, I think in this case you are looking at preference. If both will make the correct draw length, the 35 inch bow will be slightly more forgiving because of increased inertia and string angle, but only slightly so. At normal bowhunting distances you likely won't notice it. I prefer longer bows simply because I want everything I can get, but I realize I am sometimes splitting hairs. Three inches in axle to axle length won't make a big difference. Good luck. (3-31-12)
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Brett from NY asks:Hey Bill, I'm new to hunting so what kind of bow and arrows do you recommend for a 12 year old?Winke Responds:Brett, For your age, I would recommend that you stick with a youth model bow. Most adult bows don't go low enough in draw length to fit a 12 year old. Our son is 11 and will be 12 soon and he has about a 22 inch draw length. Yours may be different from his, of course, but one thing you know for sure, it will be increasing fast. Most youth bows have a lot of draw length adjustments on them so they can grow with you for a while. I like Hoyt bows, so I am going to suggest the Ruckus. It is a good bow and will kill deer for you. Good luck. Let us know how it turns out. (3-8-12)
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What is a good arrow weight for my 73 pound Hoyt Vector 32? Should I use new broadheads when I hunt?william from MO asks:Hi Bill, I am wondering what would be a good weight arrow for both whitetail and elk. I shoot a vector 32 with a 29" draw. It is a 70# and i shoot it maxed out so im guessing 73-74 lbs. Also i shoot montec broadheads. Do you think is it better to shoot a brand new broadhead when hunting or sharpen one that you have been practicing with so that you know it is tuned to that arrow? thanks alotWinke Responds:William, I would sharpen the one you practice with. It is better to know exactly where it is hitting than have a new on on the arrow. Sharp is still sharp whether used or new. I would think an arrow weight (with the broadhead) in the 400 to 420 grain range would give you a very good, fast arrow that makes your bow acceptably quiet and soaks up most of the energy your bow is pumping out. Good luck. (3-6-12)
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Pat from GA asks:Hey Bill. Haven't had time to write in awhile, due to a move back to Georgia from Texas, but as usual, the website, the videos and the information is great. I don't have access to or the funds to buy a Hooter Shooter, but I do want a way to check cam sync and cam lean at full draw. I was thinking about building my own drawboard. Would you recommend this or do you have a better suggestion? Also, any suggestions for checking 3rd axis sight adjustment with out a Hooter Shooter? I know it should be done at full draw.Winke Responds:Pat, That will work. My dad his own shooting machine that wasn't overly hard to make. Just make sure that everything is very stout - over-build it. That way you never have to worry about whether something will snap. I would not leave a bow at full draw for long periods either. A few minutes and then get it let down again. There is no systematic way to set the third axis. You are right, it must be done at full draw. Most sights don't even permit third axis adjustment. Each result will be different depending on shooting form, draw weight, bow length and even cam design. Setting the third axis is a trial and error process; you can’t do it in the shop you have to do it in the field. Further, you have to do it, you can't let the machine do it. It is a trial and error process fine-tuned with long uphill and downhill shots. But as a starting point, it is safe to say that if you are right-handed you will need to toe the sight body out – away from you slightly. Then you can experiment on long downhill and uphill shots to fine-tune your settings. If you are shooting left (right handed) on downhill shots, you need to turn the sight body away from you (toe it out) and vice versa on uphill shots. Good luck. (3-4-12)
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Blake from SD asks:Bill, I know that you paper tune your bows. After reading your book, I started doing this as well and have noticed great advances in my arrow flight. My question is, do you paper tune with a bare shaft and then move to a fletched arrow or do you start with a fletched arrow? Thanks, BlakeWinke Responds:Blake, I only tune the bare shaft as a last resort if I can't figure out why my arrow is not flying well - or when tuning for finger shooters. If the flecthing is contacting the rest, the bare shaft will fly better. If it is not fletching contact, the bare shaft will fly worse. That is about all I use it for now. With the good drop away arrow rests on the market now, it is not as common to fight through fletching contact as it was before they were popular. So bare shaft tuning is not a common practice any longer (at least not for release aid shooters). Good luck. (3-1-12)
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Jacob from WI asks:Bill, I recently tried paper tuning my bow, and I was getting a tail tear low. In an old article of yours, you suggested to move the nocking point 1/8 to 1/4 up. I tried that, but it only made it worse. What is the problem? Thanks Bill, all your information is greatly appreciated.Winke Responds:Jacob, Could be the cam timing or cam rotation. I try to time even my hybrid, cam 1/2 and single cam bows perfectly. The single-cam is a bit sensitive to cam rotation (what position the cam is in before you draw it). I like for my hybrid, binary or cam 1/2 to hit the end of the draw cycle and see the harnesses bottom on the flat part of their tracks at exactly the same time. If this is greek to you, consider taking the bow to a good dealer and ask them to look at your timing for you. Otherwise, I am not sure what would cause a tail low tear. That is uncommon if the bow is timed correctly. Good luck. (2-26-12)
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Torrey from NY asks:I shoot a 2010 Mission Maniac IBO 210fps, 29" draw, 65lbs, with Carbon Express Mach 5 arrows 8.1 gpi, 11g inserts, 3" quickspin vanes, and luminox. In the last 2 years I harvested 3 deer w/ 3 different heads. Bloodrunner,rage,spitfire maxx. Bloodrunner had poor penetration @ 10yrds, rage killed quickly but no bloodtrail and the head was mangled, and the Maxx hit a twig and broke off a blade before entering. Granted they all led to success but I want something I can have more confidence in, able to handle a shoulder shot but still forgiving if I hit a little back. You have any suggestions for my head selection this year?Winke Responds:Torrey, I experimented with a lot of heads back in the late 90s when I settled on the Rocket Steelhead. I have been shooting it ever since. They are one of our sponsors but that was by design. I was shooting that head long before Midwest Whitetail. If you want more cutting diameter, you can try the XL. Since the ferrule is made of steel it will stand up to some pretty solid impact. I have killed an awful lot of deer with them. Good luck. (2-17-12)
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Dan from OH asks:I shoot a Hoyt set @58#-27" draw- Beeman arrows #500 7.3gpi & 100gr heads- would Rocket Steelheads be a good choice for a broadhead for this setup? Also, are you going to be at the Ohio Deer Expo this year?Winke Responds:Dan, My testing several years ago revealed that the Rocket Steelhead was one of the best penetrating broadheads on the market at that time. That was compared to other mechanicals and three-blade fixed-blade broadheads. I didn't test against two blade heads. So for that reason, I would say it would be a good choice for your setup. Good luck. (2-13-12)
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Dan from OH asks:I shoot a Hoyt set @56#- 27" draw & Beeman Arrows 7.3 GPI- do you think 100 gr Rocket Steelheads would a good selection for this setup?- Thanks & I enjoy the show alot- are you coming to the Ohio Deer Expo this year?Winke Responds:Dan, I think it would work great. That sounds like a nice, well-balanced setup. We are not going to be at the Ohio Deer Expo this year. We went in 2009 and 2010 and need to get back there again. Have a great day. (2-10-12)
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Terry from VA asks:I have a bear strike rated at 70lbs.. Its a little too much for me to pull now. Have turned it down to 60lb but like it a little lighter. I was told I could not turn it down anymore. What do I need to change to get the pull lighter. My shoulder wont take the heavy pull anymore but I do not want to go to a crossbow or change the bow I have. Could you help. Thanks, TerryWinke Responds:Terry, All you really need are different set of limbs. You will need a bow press to swap them out yourself, but likely a good dealer in your area can order them and do that work for you. That will get you where you want to be. Good luck. (2-7-12)
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Billy from TN asks:76 yo avid hunter with Concept Arch. mini 29(99% let off)with marked contact between lower hen vane & shelf of riser to right of Rip Cord rest. With bow pressed there is 1/8" wobble in cam & 1/16" wobble in wheel as det. with eze-center laser tuning instru. Obvious lean in both to center of bow at full draw as det. with laser. Wheel & cam have roller bearings.Winke Responds:Billy, If I had to guess, I would look first at cam timing. If I am not mistaken, that one given the depth of the letoff cycle might cause some strange arrow flight if the cams aren't timed correctly. That will affect up and down arrow flight primarily. If the cams are leaning (as you state) or loose as you suggest (though 1/16 inch wobble isn't much), that will have more impact on the sideways path of the arrow and that affects side to side arrow flight. Based on what you state, it could be a number of issues, but assuming you have already eliminated the obvious ones, I am left wondering about cam lean and cam timing. That is where I would focus. Remedy is harder than most other tuning issues. A dealer might be able to help if you are unsure how to go about trying to fix timing or straighten the cam lean (not always possible). Good luck. (2-3-12)
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Allen from PA asks:Hi Bill, I see you found double G4's sheds! Boy, what a year you had. I had my best year as well! Cant wait till 2012 seasons. I have a question about arrow penetration. I shoot a Z7 at 28.5 inch draw,at 62 lbs.I,ll be using axis arrows with a G-5 montec cs broadhead. My maximum range is 30 yds. most shots are 20 and under. I'm willing to sacrifice speed for penetration. What would be a good finished arrow weight for my setup? Do you think this setup would have enough kinetic energy to penetrate a shoulderblade?Winke Responds:Allen, I think the two-blade head is the key for you to penetrating the shoulder. I believe overall you can probably get it done, but it would be marginal. Of course, that is not where you are aiming, but it is sure nice to know you can handle the shoulder if you pull the shot a bit. I would say, you should go for a finished arrow in the 400 to 425 grain range. If you keep the shots under 30 you won't have to worry too much about range estimation errors, but shooting through holes in the brush and string jumping may still get you with the slower arrow. Be sure to check for any branches above your lind of sight on 30 yard shots and be sure to aim well low in the 30 yard shots if the deer looks alert. I have learned that one the hard way haven't I? Again, it is a margin shoulder blade setup, but probably the best you can do given that draw weight. Good luck. (1-28-12)
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Jimmy from AL asks:Hello Bill, I have really enjoyed watching the show. I wrote to you last year about switching from fingers to a release and peep. Well, I couldn't quit make myself drop the fingers, but I did get used to using the peep. The release is coming this year. I notice you hook up directly to the string, do you have extra serving there to help with wear? I am thinking of not using a d loop, are there any other tips you can give for hooking directly to the string?Winke Responds:Jimmy, I place a rubber "eliminator button" between the arrow nock and the release aid and I overserve the string serving in the area where the release contacts it with a layer of old string material. You may be just fine attaching to a nocking loop. I do it my way because I feel that I can get the release hooked up faster this way. Maybe you can do a great job going to a loop. It is like a bit more accurate attaching to a loop. Good luck. (1-26-12)
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Jarrod from IA asks:Hey Bill, I was recently out shooting and it's a problem I've been ignoring all year but now in the off season I need to take care of it. It seems like when shoot the arrow seems to start to sidewind right out of the rest. I am shooting at 70 lb. draw and shooting 340 grain arrows. It has a 100 grain field tip and I'm assuming a standard nock (I didn't set it up). Would a heavier arrow fix the problem or a different rest? By the way I am definitely taking you're advice and putting on a rocket steelhead. Thanks, JarrodWinke Responds:Jarrod, I don't think a stiffer arrow is needed in this case. I would look at four things. 1. fletching contact - make sure the fletching is not touching the rest as it leaves the bow. You can tell that fairly easily by spraying the fletching with foot spray and seeing if it rubs off anywhere. If so, you may need to rotate your fletching or try a different rest. 2. Center shot adjustment. Move the rest in and out a bit and see if that fixes it. 3. Shooting form - By adjusting your grip (pushing straight at the target with a consciously relaxed hand you can often eliminate the sideways tear. Also, make sure that your string elbow is pointing straight away from the target and not at all pulled behind you. If it is applying any sideways pressure on the string at full draw that will come out as sideways string movement and sideways arrow flight. 4. Your cam(s) may be leaning. The cams should be perfectly in line with the string to assure that the string doesn't have any sideways movement in it. You just sight down the string and see if the cams line up. If not, there are sometimes some things you can do to fix it. Your best bet is to take it to a good pro shop and see if they know what to do about it. I know what to do, but it requires some tech savvy and is beyond the scope of this short Q&A. Good luck. (1-29-12)
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drew from MO asks:What is the minimum draw wight you would use for expandable broadheads like rage, grim reaper razorcut and the meatseeker. Also what is your thought on cut on contact broadheads.Winke Responds:Drew, That is an inexact science because it depends on draw length and also where you hit the deer, weight of the arrow. However, for sure I can say that a large mechanical head (one that opens wide) needs more punch behind it. I would say for those heads 50 pounds is probably a realistic minimum. Put it this way, I would not recommend them for draw weights less than that. There are other mechanicals with smaller cutting diameters (like my beloved Steelheads) that will penetrate better (maybe not cause as much damage, but better penetration). And as you state, the cut on contact heads are even better at these lower draw weights. That is what I would recommend. Heads like the Bear Razorhead, etc. are good for lower poundage bows. Our son killed a buck in 2009 with a two blade cut on impact head at just 24 pounds of draw weight. He is going to be hunting again this year at roughly 30 to 35 pounds, but I think I will still keep him on fixed-blade, possibly cut on impact, heads. Good luck. (1-24-12)
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Andrew from MI asks:I am using Whitetail 3050 arrows, what kind/how heavy should my broadheads be? Any brand name suggestions?Winke Responds:Andrew. Those are Gander Mountain arrows. I would say that it really depends on your draw weight and arrow length, but assuming you are in the range for that arrow, I would suggest any 75 grain or 100 grain head. The 75 grain head might balance the arrow better. Personally, when shooting lower poundage bows I like a head that penetrates well. I like Rocket heads. I have shot them a long time, but there are a number of other very good brands out there. A good choice might be the Rocket Ultimate Steel in 75 grains or the small Wolverine 75 grain mechanical head. Both should be very accurate. I would not hesitate to use either one. Good luck. Happy New Year. (12-31-11)
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Gary from AR asks:Winke, I am shooting a Bowtech Assassin. I am seeing the cables in my peep site. I can still see my pins and am learning to make consistent shots, however I do not understand why I have the cables in my view.Winke Responds:Gary, That bow does have a flexible cable guard and that might be why the cables are appearing in your sight picture. The guard is designed to flex toward the center of the bow at full draw to reduce the side torque on the limp tips. When you release the string the cable guard springs back out of the way. Not sure if that is it or not. I have shot that bow and I didn't notice any problems with it. Good luck. Merry Christmas. (12-20-11)
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Sean from IA asks:Hey Bill, I am looking to see what you suggest. I built some heavier arrows recently to try and increase my KE and this is what I found. I chronographed my old arrows which total 363 grains (11.68%FOC) at 319fps to give me 82.04lbs/ke. My new arrows which total 421grains (12.8%FOC) chronod at 299fps to give me 83.60lbs/ke. Needless to say i was fairly disappointed with my arrows slowing by 20FPS and only gaining 1.56lbs/ke. I am considering just going back to my old arrow weight to maintain the flatter trojectery...??? What are your thoughts on my findings? I wish you and your family a very Merry Christmas! Thank You!Winke Responds:Sean, My first guess is that something is wrong with the numbers. I would have expected the speed to drop much less. Are you sure on the actual weight of the arrows? Something doesn't add up on that one. If the numbers are correct, then yes you are better off sticking with the lighter arrows in this case. Again, those numbers seem a bit off. Just for reference for other readers: KE = arrow speed in fps squared times the arrow weight in grains divided by 450,800. Good luck and Merry Christmas to you and your family too. (12-15-11)
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Chris from OK asks:Hi Bill,will the NAP Quick Spins work with a whiker biscuit?The lip on the back edge of the vanes had me wondering about how it would pass through the bristles. thanks ChrisWinke Responds:Chris, They will work but you have to fletch it straight (no helical). Good luck. (12-5-11)
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Chad from NY asks:Hi Bill, This question is in regards to bow set up. I have noticed that most bowhunter's sight pins are aligned slightly left of the center point of the bow string, arrow spine and arrow rest. In other words if you nock an arrow and look at how the string lines up with the arrow and rest, you'll notice the pins seem to be off to the left. (for right handed shooters) If the pins, the rest, the length of the arrow and the string are not all perfectly in line with each other how can the arrow Not be traveling at an angle to the target? And one would think this non perfect arrow flight would make you exponentially further from the bulls eye the further away the target. If you took the human out of the picture and perfectly aligned the pins, arrow, rest and string one would assume the arrow would fly straight and be consistent in regards to right/left. Thoughts?Winke Responds:Chad, It has to do with how the bow pivots in your hand at full draw. Some pivot more than others, but almost all pivot some. The pins are lined up with the arrow (or roughly lined up) when the bowhunter is at full draw. If you watch people shooting carefully you wil see this happening. It has to do with where we hold the grip and whether the string lines up with the center of the grip, etc. In theory, a machine would have a vastly different sight position (much closer to perfectly in line with the arrow). Good question. (11-30-11)
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Dwayne from MD asks:Just bought my son a pse syder compound bow and the information sticker is missing how do i find out the draw weight,lengthWinke Responds:Dwayne, You will have to use a produce scale or something to check draw weight, maybe a bow shop has a bow scale. You can measure draw length roughly by having him draw an arrow and then marking the arrow where it lines up with the front of the bow (roughly with the front of his fist). Then measure the arrow. This will get you in the ballpark on draw length. Most bows have adjustable draw length. I am pretty sure the Spyder does too. Good luck. (11-24-11)
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Erik from OH asks:I truly enjoy all of the episodes that your site has to offer. One question for you concerning bowstring twist. After I shoot my bow the peep and the loop turn 90 degrees to my left. If I nock an arrow I have to continually twist my peep while in my stand because it will return to that position in seconds. I've noticed When I nock an arrow if I turn the serving under the nock the string will hold its position. Here in southwest Ohio I only have a G.MTN. that can assist with my issue. We have shortened the peep tubing and tried re-tying the loop to no avail. I could sure use any advice you could give. I wear glasses and if the peep isn't just right my I'll try to adjust and my form will fail. Your shot on the G5 buck was by all means by the footage ethical. That buck was a one of a kind trophy. All animals suffer somewhat when hit, so your follow up shot just aided the process in a quick kill. Thanks again!Winke Responds:Erik, You have to remove the rubber tubing from the peep, take the string off and give it a few twists, put it back on and test it. Possibly repeat. To take the string off you need a bow press. I often use a portable press called a Bowmaster. That is all that is involved. I don't use the rubber tubing. Once you get the string set it rarely rotates. Thanks for your support. I hope you get that peep squared away. Good luck. (12-8-11)
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Steve from WI asks:First off I want say I love the Website and congrats on 2 GIANTS! Daggers and the G5 buck are truly world class deer. My question is this, a buddy of mine says that I'm shooting to heavy of a arrow in my setup. I have a 29 inch draw length and I'm shooting 70 pound draw weight. My arrows are 300 grain Carbon Express and I'm shooting 100 grain 2 blade Rage broadheads. Is a 400 grain arrow/head setup to much? Can I shoot a lighter/narrower arrow? I have noticed that I need to adjust my sight when I get out past 25 yards. My bow seemed to shoot flatter last season. How many grains is enough for whitetails? Thanks, SteveWinke Responds:Steve, Thanks. I really appreciate it. Nope you are right and your buddy is wrong. 400 grains is a very good weight for your bow setup. You can shoot a bit lighter if you want to, but don't get too carried away. I would say to stay above 350 grains for sure. Personally, I like the weight you are shooting. I wouldn't change arrows. Good luck. (12-8-11)
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joey from MN asks:I am shooting 2 92 hoyt superslam carbon plus limbs. t 5 energy wheels ... can i upgrade the wheels to some newer cams? the bow shoots great i love it that why i have 2 and i like the older style bows. but who doesent want to upgrade and go faster and hit harder. any suggestionsWinke Responds:Joey, Normally, that doesn't work because cams are designed for a certain amount of limb pre-stress and they bend the limb a certain amount, meaning that the geometry of your bow and the limbs you have on your bow may not work with the new cam. Also, the new cams on your bow will likely need a custom sized string and harnesss - that won't be cheap - or you have to make them yourself. In other words, it is a pain - too much trouble to be worth it. I think it is time you tried one of the new bows. I used to be in love with an UltraTec. I had killed something like 125 to 150 deer with it over 7 or eight seasons. Finally, I upgraded to the AlphaMax. After shooting the AlphaMax for a few days I picked up the UltraTec again and shot a few arrows. I literally threw it aside. It was not nearly as good as the new bow - not even close. So maybe it is just time to make a trip to the local Hoyt dealer and take another look at what Hoyt has to offer. Good luck. (11-22-11)
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jonah from NC asks:hey, i was wondering what poundage you thnk i should pull with my bow because i am pulling like 65# and my dads pulling #75 i am 14 and can pull mine and his without a problem should i shoot my bow the ma itll go i have A mathews lx. and also i wanted to know how much you pull and if youve ever shot a mathews! thanks.Winke Responds:Jonah, I would stick with 65 for this year and then as you grow bigger and stronger you can crank it down to the maximum or possibly purchase a bow with higher draw weight. 65 pounds is plenty for most anything you will face while bowhunting, definitely enough for anything in NC. I shoot about 80 pounds. It is getting harder for me to handle that weight each year so I am sure I will have to drop down eventually. I like the higher draw weight because I feel I can kill deer if I accidentally hit them in the shoulder. I have shot Mathews a number of times over the years. I shoot Hoyt now, but the Mathews are very good bows.
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Brad from MI asks:Bill, First and foremost congrats on having a fine show! I have watched you shoot and taken notes from equipment to form. I got a new Hoyt this summer and I think the bow is great. I have wanted to shoot fixed blade broadheads but they just don't fly (no matter how many hundreds of $'s worth of broadheads I buy). I just had my bow paper tuned by a local pro shop and I was the shooter. He adjusted my rest to where the arrow was nearly pointed out to the left. I couldn't get anything to fly. When I try to broadhead tune my bow I cannot because my broadheads hit in different places. I don't have a problem with expandables I guess I think I'm the only hunter in the woods that is forced to use them. Any ideas? Thanks and good luck-BradWinke Responds:Brad, There are two things to factor when tuning: the bow and accessories and your form. Overall, there are three things you need to look at on the bow: where the rest is positioned (in, out, up, down), where the nock set is positioned on the string and the path the string takes going forward (timing and cam lean). Ocassionally, the arrow may also be too limber. All of those factors need to be set correctly. Then on the form side, you need to really focus on your grip (try different styles) and your release (make sure you are pulling straight back from the target and not to the side). Somewhere in there you will find the answer to your problem. If it is too much to digest right now and you can't get perfect flight, there is nothing wrong with shooting mechanicals. I have shot them effectively for 16 years. For the last fourteen years I have shot Rocket Steelheads, primarily. Good luck.
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Pat from TX asks:Hey Bill. I've been shooting single cam bows for a long time, but this year I decided to go with a hybrid cam Hoyt. When replacing strings and cables, what is a good starting point for the number of twists to put in the split end of the buss cable. Is it an equal number per side, or should you put more in one side than the other? Also, do you add extra twists to one side to offset cam lean similar to adding twists on a single cam to offset idler wheel lean?Winke Responds:Pat, You halfway answered your own question. I put in as many twists as I need to balance the limb tip so the cam lines up perfectly with the string. That is important to prevent cam lean and produce good arrow flight. Once the cam is in line with the string you don't need to adjust the split yoke anymore. YOu may need to fine-tune to make sure the cam isn't leaning at full draw too, but generally it is enough to get it lined up with the string when the bow is undrawn.
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dave from NY asks:Bill, with the newest bows shooting flatter and faster I believe sight Pin seperation is becoming an issue of concern. I shoot my second pin for targets at 35 yds. I use .19 pins .My 1st pin is set to cover all shots out to 30 yds and 3rd pin for (40yds). When using the 2nd pin , it becomes difficult to clearly see the target because the pin above and below are so close...After shooting a multiple pin sight my entire life I am contemplating shooting a moveable 1 pin sight like an HHA. I am a hunter and shoot 3D. I would like to know yur thoughts on this topic. Thanks Bill and have a great season.Winke Responds:Dave, I think you can set up for 20, 35 and 45 and do very well with three pins once you get used to that setup. If you can't get pin separation with 15 yard splits, you must be shootintg very fast. When I first started bowhunting I set pins for 20 and 40 yards and gapped for 30. That worked fine and may be another option for you. Moveable pin sights are fine if you have the time to adjust them. But if the deer is moving toward you or away from you when you draw, you are left guessing - I don't like guessing. The only other option in that case is to put a small two pin sight body on the moveable frame and then keep it set so the top pin is 20 and the bottom is 35 or 40. If you have time to move it, adjust so the top pin is the exact range. This gives you the precision of the moveable pin when you the time and the flexibility of a fixed pin when you don't. Hope that helps. Good luck.
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cameron from AB asks:Hi Bill, I just bought a hoyt CRX32 and I can't get it to paper tune, the only time it shoots a bullet hole through paper is when its set with the nock about 3/4 to 1' high! I know thats not right. when its set up around 1/8'' high i get nock low tears. Any ideas whats wrong with my bow? ThanksWinke Responds:Carmeron, My best guess on that kind of tear is the cam timing. Even though it is a cam and a half, if the timing is way off, the bow can still produce a tail low tear. The only other thing could be your grip. Not exactly sure how you produce a low tear with your grip, but I have seen just about every other kind of tear produced with an improper grip. Try the timing first, then experiment with different grip pressure and if you still haven't fixed it, let me know. If you don't how to check your cam timing (basically both cams need to hit full draw at the same time) please take the bow to a dealer for the check out. Good luck.
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tom from AL asks:could you please describe sighting in a bow with just one pin . I read an aricle of yours on it but misplaced it. thanks for all your time and informationWinke Responds:Tom, If you set it for 25 yards you will be in the kill zone for shots from about 12 yards to 32 yards with a fast bow even if you aim right for the middle of the kill zone on every shot. Hold a touch low on short shots and you will be fine. Good luck.
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Fiong from MN asks:BILL, I've been trying to broadhead tune my bow and having some minor issue. I'm shooting 25 inch draw, 67 lbs, arrows are easton flatline 400 spine. My problem here is, field points and broadheads are not hitting alike or the same spot. I've tune my broadheads to hit where i want and when i follow up with a field point, it's hitting 4 inches left of my broadhead. any tip will help?Winke Responds:Fiong, That means the arrows are likely coming out tail right - causing the broadheads to pull the arrows to the right. Your bow is not perfectly tuned. I would look toward three likely things. First, you may have the rest in the wrong place left and right. Try paper tuning the bow first and see if you can get a bullethole through the paper. I would just try moving the rest side to side a bit to see if that makes a difference. Second, you may have fletching contact with the rest or the harnesses. Spray some athlete's foot spray on the fletching to see if it is brushing against something. It will come off if it contacts something in the rest or on the bow. If you are shooting a Whiskper Biscuit, this is not an issue, forget worrying about contact. Finally, check your shooting form. If you are pulling the release slightly to the side at full draw the arrow will kick a bit sideways. I have had a problem with that in the past. Once the bow is perfectly tuned, you will be able to get your broadheads and field points to hit the same place. If you are never able to acheive this goal, just sight your bow in for the broadheads. Or you can use a mechanical head like the Rocket Steelhead and you will enjoy same hole accuracy with field points and broadheads (as long as your bow is fairly well tuned). Good luck.
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Anthony from AL asks:I have recently been given a golden eagle "hunter" from a friend. I know it's roughly 25 to 28 years old, and it's in great shape considering its age. I took it with plans to set it up as a bowfishing rig, any ideas on the minimum and maximum poundage settings, draw length, or letoff on this bow?Winke Responds:Anthony, It could be anything. They set those bows up then just as they do now with ranges of both draw weight and draw length. I would say the let off is 35 or 50%. Probably 50%. You can measure the draw length and draw weight fairly easily if you really need to know those specs. Good luck.
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Jimmy from MO asks:Hey bill, have a quick couple questions for ya. I have heard a few debates over paper tuning your bow. I would like one cleared up. How far should you be away from the paper when you shoot through it? I have heard point blank, 6 ft, and 10 yards. What do you think? Also, I am getting a bad high right tear at all these distances (I am right handed) and I know the rest is real close to right on, at least close enough the tear should not be near what it is. Is it possible I am over spined?Winke Responds:Jimmy, Not point blank because the arrow is still attached to the string. I stand about six feet. Six to ten feet is a good distance allowing you to see what the arrow is doing right out of the bow - before the fletchings start to correct the arrow flight. I doubt you are overspined. That is a very uncommon cause of poor arrow flight if using a release aid. More than likely, the fletching are hitting the rest or something else. You can often tell simply by studying the fletching for signs of contact. You can also spray them with athlete's foot powder and see if/where it rubs off. If they aren't touching anything it has to be either cam timing (that can cause a high tear) or less likely something in your shooting form. I would suspect cam timing - the cams aren't rolling over at the same exact time. If it is a single-cam, it may also get mistimed, but it is not as common. If you suspect this, try taking it to the archery shop for advice/help. Good luck.
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Zachary from IL asks:Hi Bill, I love watching you web videos. I have only been bow hunting whitetails for a little less than two years. I enjoy it so much that I think my wife is getting jealous. Needless to say I have learned quite a bit from your web site. One of your web episodes you were tuning in your new Hoyt. The paper tune was giving you a high left tear if I recall correctly. You later solved it with your shooting form. I recently experienced the same problem, high left tear. I made sure my form was correct, turned my bow weight way down and still high left. I thought, as you initially thought, arrow spine stiffness must be too low. I purchased new arrows, correct leangth, stiffness and not walmart brand. I purchased beman bowhunter arrows. Still have the same problem. I have a drop away arrow rest and made sure it is timed correctly. A friend of mine suggested FOB fletching and broadhead tuning. I tried that and my broadheads are not even close to the fieldtips. I am so lost that I decided to rWinke Responds:Zachary, Your question got cut off. The query field is limited to a certain number of characters. Sorry about that. I think I got the gist of it though. Your problems are likely one of two things. First, it may still be your shooting form. I discovered that I had slipped into the bad habit of pulling the string slightly to the side at full draw so when I released the string it set the string going in a sideways fahion. I had to really focus on pulling straight back (shortening my draw length helped in this). The other possibility, and it is much more remote, is that the bow has an issues with cam lean. Sight down the string to see if the string lines up with the cams. If it does, more than likely the problem is your form still. If the cams and string don't line up (being off a little is OK) I suggeest you take it to the archery shop for help. Good luck.
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Brad from TX asks:I amy shooting gold tip 3550 arrows 28 inch draw 65 pounds. Fiield tips are fine but, when I load a 100 grain rage i drop 8 inchs at 30 yards.Winke Responds:Brad, The bow or the arrow are not tuned. My guess is that it's the bow - the arrow is leaving the bow tail high causing the broadhead to plane downward. Focus on paper tuning the bow first before you try the broadheads again. Good luck.
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Allen from PA asks:Hi Bill, I have a question about penetration.Im trying to add some exta KE to my setup. what do you think about this? My complete arrow weight is 363grs. Im shooting at 280fps out of my Z7 at 60 lbs. My FOC is at 11.5%. I can add 4grs to the nock end and go from a 100gr to a 125gr Slick Trick mag in front. All but several of my bow kills were under 20yrds. My fartherest shot was 30yrds. also,my arrows are carbon express maxima hunters at 26" long.Do you think i should leave it go,or increase my arrow weight? also, will this increase my FOC to much?Winke Responds:Allen, I don't think adding 30 grains to the weight of your arrow will increase KE all that much. Basically, all you are trying to do is make the bow more efficient by making the arrow heavier so the bow transfers more weight to the arrow rather than expending it in vibration and noise after the arrow is gone. But 30 grains is not enough to make a big difference. If you are really serious, you will probably need to try a heavier shaft. I would think that by raising your arrow weight by at least 60 grains (one grain for each pound of draw weight) you will make a noticeable difference. Sure, every bit helps, but it is not worth making changes to your gear list to gain a few fps or a few ft-lb of KE. By the way, an FOC in the 11 to 13 range is fine. Good luck.
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Jim from OH asks:Bill, wow I really am addicted to this web site; it is great! My question is that I shoot a z7 68 lbs and thinking about switch arrows to the CE piledriver that will have a finish wt of 500 grain at only 27 inch arrow. Is this too heavy. Currently shooting CE maxima at abbot 380 gr finish wt. Thanks again for your fantastic web site!Winke Responds:Jim, From a technical standpoint, there is no such thing as too heavy, but you have to weigh the penetration gain against the loss in speed and the looping trajectory. Personally, I like a fast arrow to permit me to shoot through small gaps in the trees and brush and to reduce the affects of string jumping. Personally, I would be in the 400 to 420 grain range if possible. There is not much to gain by going heavier in your case and something to lose (trajectory and the ability to reduce string jumping). Good luck.
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matt from MA asks:Hey bill i am a big fan of your show and love your book on how to setup up a perfect hunting bow. I was just paper tuning my crx and your book says you should stand 6 feet from your target. I was just wondering why is 6 feet the magic number,why not closer? My local pro shop likes to paper tune closer(like an arrows length from the paper). Would one method be more accurate then the other. Thanks for your time.Winke Responds:Matt, That was just an arbitrary distance that is far enough to make sure the arrow is off the string and traveling on its own. If you get too close, you don't get the full effect because the arrow has not yet "kicked" to its most offline position. Anywhere from four to ten feet is probably fine. I don't think I owuld get much closer than that. Good luck.
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Chuck from AR asks:Bill, Where can I get a DVD that shows step by step how to tie in a peep, serve a string etc. I have looked at some web sights and they are good, but I just need to see it done for myself. I have your book Setting up the perfect Hunting bow and it is a must have, but I am the kind of guy that has to see it for me to get it. Thanks for all you do for us. C.DavisWinke Responds:Chuck, I am not aware of such a DVD. It is something that we should probably produce here. For sure, we have the ability to produce DVDs on a wide range of subjects. In the meantime, check out Bernie Pellerite's collection of videos (Robinhood Videos) (he is on the web. He has one called "Professional String Making" with Larry Wise. I bet that would have your answers. I have never watched any of Bernie's videos, so I can't speak for their quality, but at least he is covering a wide range of topics here. Also, check out BCY's website (bcyfibers.com). I set my dad up with string making materials several years ago and I know we got that started with a good video from BCY. I see they still have a bowstring and cable making DVD that covers all the stuff you are looking for. Good luck.
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Martin from NY asks:Bill While paper tuning, I keep getting left tears from my Quest Smoke. I'm pretty confident it's due to my form torquing the bow. My question is, if I'm a right hand shooter using a trigger (2 jaw) release, what way am I torquing? I also know it could be the way I'm holding the release... Any insight would be a great help in getting better form and accuracy. Thanks.Winke Responds:Martin, I could be a turning movement of the bow itself (caused by your grip) or a sideways movement of the string (caused by your release). The bow is supposed to jump straight forward at the shot. Experiment with your grip some to see if that makes a difference, then make sure you are pulling straight back on the release side, not pulling to the side. I had issues with this recently with a new bow and realized finally that the draw length was too long. Shortening it just 1/2 inch made a big difference in my arrow flight because my release was pulling straight back rather than to the side. Take a look at this too. Good luck.
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Chris from OK asks:Hi Bill,I have an older left handed parker bow with a fuse Bicuit,27" 500 fmj's at 50 lbs shot with a release.Getting consistant 3" tail left tears in the paper.Vertical is good.Moving the rest seems not to change anything.Any ideas? Thanks, ChrisWinke Responds:Chris, One of four things likely: 1. Your arrows may not be the right stiffness. 2. Cam lean (the cam is leaning to the side at full draw). 3. Your grip (you may be torquing the bow) or 4. Your release method (if you are pulling to the side slightly at full draw (and not straight back) you can introduce some sideways movement of the string on release. Study the bow to see if the cam is leaning. If so, you may be able to fix it, but likely not on that bow. Experiment with different grip methods and make sure you are pulling the release straight back from the target at full draw to see if that changes anything.
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Marty from NY asks:Bill I just got done paper tuning both of my bows: 2009 Ross Cardiac 31 and a 2010 Quest Smoke. Both also recently got new strings and cables. When I finished with paper tuning, the bows are shooting really nice (almost perfect) holes in paper at 5ft & 10ft. My question is: is it unusual for the release loop (nock position) to be 5/16" high on the Ross and 3/8" high on the Smoke for good arrow flight? Should I be looking at something else on the bow to adjust? The Ross has an Octane Pro rest and the Quest has a Ripcord Code Red drop-away.Winke Responds:Marty, I wouldn't change them. That is common for different bows to set up just a bit differently. It has to do with many things including the cam design, how far the cushion plunger hole is above bow's center point are two of them. Good job getting them shooting well.
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Mike from NJ asks:Hi Bill, I am switching arrows this hunting season from the Easton ST Axis to the Easton Axis N-Fused. Everything is still the same as far as draw`weight, broadhead grains, and arrow weight/grains. My question to you is do I still have to retune the bow due to switching arrows, I could see the need if weights had changed or stiffness of the arrows were far apart. Thanks for the help.Winke Responds:Mike, I used the N-Fused the last couple of years and will likely use them this year. They are great arrows. In theory, you should not have to retune the bow, but for the sake of being thorough, it is worth taking a shot or two through paper to see what they are doing. Sometimes just composition can have an affect, but Easton is pretty rigorous about their stiffness measurements so I doubt that will be a factor. Good luck.
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Mike from ON asks:I always paper tune my bow but I shoot fixed blade broadheads. If you shoot expandables and I know you do why do you get so worked up about paper tuning your bow I thought expandables and field points shoot the same.Winke Responds:Mike, It is always good to have your bow properly tuned even with mechanical heads. Arrows will windplane slightly even with field points (and mechanical heads) just because of the nature of aerodynamics. They won't plane as much as they would with fixed-blade heads but they will still plane. Also, a bow is more consistent when properly tuned and will produce a slightly faster arrow and slightly better penetration. It is just part of archery. Everyone should tune their bow.
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Mike from ON asks:I've owned plenty of bows over the years and have several friends who have aswell. I have heard all about cam timing and to always check it. I have never seen a bow with bad timing am I lucky? Maybe I'm not checking properly. How common is it to have the cams out of time? Also how do you check your cam timing? ThanksWinke Responds:Mike, You have definitely been lucky. I have had way more bows be out of time than in time. Even hybrids are often slightly out of time. Though poor timing on the hybrid is not as big of a deal as it is on a two-cam, it will still have a small affect on arrow flight, the way the bow feels and tips at full draw and the amount of letoff. I know some people like to set their timing off just a bit (with the top cam getting to full draw just a moment earlier), I always set mine so that they are equal. I like the way that feels best. To check timing, draw the bow and carefully watch the tracks that the harnesses wrap onto. You will notice as you reach full draw the harness will fall in close to the axle and the track will get very flat. This is how the cam achieves let-off and a solid back wall respectively. I want both harnesses to touch the flat part of the track (the back wall) at the same exact moment. That is a perfectly timed bow. Take a look and see what you find out. If you have a bow press you can easily set timing by adding a twist or two to the harness attached to the cam that gets to full draw first. Go back and read that sentence very carefully because it carries a lot of information. Good luck.
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dennis from OH asks:hey bill appreciate all you do and love the show just recently started watching online lots of useful info in such a short time keep up the good work i shoot a pse dream season x force 70 pounds 29 inch draw recently measured draw lentgh was 28 and one half inches do you think that my draw lentgh is to long set at 29 inches would appreciate your input thanksWinke Responds:Dennis, Thanks. 1/2-inch on the draw length can make a big difference in how well you shoot a bow. The true test is where your release arm elbow points at full draw. When you are pulling firmly into the back wall at full draw, your elbow should be pointing straight behind you. Straight away from the target. If it is curled around and pointing the side your draw length is too long. If it is short-stopping and not quite getting to where it comfortably points straight away from the target, your draw length is too short. Ask someone to look at you while you are shooting. You can feel it too if you pay close attention. That is the only way to really know what your correct draw length is. Measurements will only only take you so far, your body position at full draw is the real deciding point. Good luck.
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Waylon from IA asks:Bill just watched the new episode where you are tuning your new Hoyt. Might want to make sure you are not torquing the bow with your bow hand. Maybe let someone else shoot it just to make sure.Winke Responds:Waylon, I think you have hit the nail on the head. My form was a bit rusty and that seems to be the reason the bow was tearing tail left on every shot. Thanks for the feeback.
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Hunter from IA asks:What are some ways to make me a better shot with a bow.Winke Responds:Hunter, One key that helps almost anyone is to hold your follow-through. Try to keep aiming until the arrow hits the target. That keeps the bow steady all the way through the shot. What you are doing after the arrow leaves the string is what you are starting to do before it leaves. Keep the pin on the target. Learn to squeeze the trigger so the shot takes you by surprise. If you do those two things well, you will shoot much better. Good luck.
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Wes from IA asks:Just wondered if you put any extra material on your bow string where you hook up your release aid? Or do you just rely on the serving of the bow string. My wife just bought a bow, and I believe it would be easier for her to just clip her release to the string. What do you think? Thanks, keep up the great work.Winke Responds:Wes, For those reading this, he is asking about the procedure to set up the string when attaching the release straight to the string, not the use of a nocking loop. I always over-serve the string with a strand from a used bowstring to protect my serviing from the release aid. I also know a very experienced target archer and bowhunter who buys a spool of small diameter serving thread and actually pulls it down in the gaps between the string's larger center serving, and then overwrapping that with another full layer of the smaller thread. I always connect my release straight to the string when hunting. I feel it is faster and more reliable to hook up that way, but also understand why people use loops. I have never felt as comfortable with a set of gloves on, cold weather and adrenaline of getting the loop snagged on the first try. Good luck.
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Tim from AL asks:Bill, I have had the same problems when using a peep as you described in your bow set up show. I am left eye dominant but shoot right handed and this causes me to squint when aiming which gives me problems in low light. I think using a larger diameter peep could be the solution. What brand of peep do you use and what is the diameter? Thanks for any information you can provide. Love the show!Winke Responds:Tim, I use the 1/4 inch diameter Meta Peep from G5 Outdoors. Good luck.
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John from PA asks:Sir I have a 2003 thunder bolt pse bow on center shot will the arrow be parrell with the window of my bow. the wheel is centered on the top limb on the cam end from the outside of the limb it's 1 1/4 to center of string and 5/8 to center on other side. How should I set center shot? Thank You JohnWinke Responds:John, The easiest way to set center shot is to look down on the bow from above and set it up so the arrow comes straight out of the bow and is at 90 degree angle to face of the limbs. I realize that is not clear. The easiest way to understand it is to look at this video I have on the site. http://www.midwestwhitetail.com/gallery/8/media/83/setting-a-bows-center-shot.html If you were not aware, there are a number of videos on the player geared toward helping you become better with your bow. Good luck.
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Jason from PA asks:Hey Bill, I shoot Beman ICS Hunter arrows and i was looking in to shooing something new. I was looking at the Easton Axis. I see you highly recommend them. I was wondering if i start shooing the Eastons will there be a great difference between them and my old Bemans? I have a bunch of old Bemans and I was going to use them for play arrows but will i have to re-tune my sights from one arrow to the other?Winke Responds:Jason, Likely you will have to re-set your sights. Not only are they likely of different weight, the Axis is a bit smaller in diameter so it will sit lower in your rest than the older Bemans (those with conventional inserts not the HIT system) causing the arrows to hit a small bit lower than the Bemans. My guess is that the differnce will not be great, but still enough to cause you to be irritating. I am guessing you will have to move your sights. Good luck.
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mohammad ali from MI asks:hey bill,I'm guessing you should have memorized me from all my questions that i ask, sorry about that but i want to ask you ANOTHER question, i always hear paper tuning and broad head tuning, can you explain to me what those are? P.S: appreciate your time for answering my questions.Winke Responds:Mohammad, Paper tuning is shooting the arrow (with field points) through a sheet of paper at about five or six feet to see how it tears the paper. If it comes out a bit sideways, it will make wide tear. What you want is an arrow that makes only a hole with the cuts for the fletching and no sideways tear. When you have a tear you need to fix it with adjustments to rest, nock point, sometimes the cam timing and sometimes the arrow stiffness. This is not the place to discuss that, but you can look up a number of resources on the subject online. Broadhead tuning is the act of trying to get the arrow with broadheads attached to hit the same place in the target as the same arrow with field points attached. If you shoot mechanical heads, no broadhead tuning is typically required. BH tuning takes very small adjustments, usually to the rest. Good luck.
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Dan from MN asks:Bill,I was wondering if the location (inline with the vains or between the vains) of the broadhead blades on the arrow shaft in relation to the vains would affect how the arrow flys.Winke Responds:Dan, The only time that makes a difference is when your bow is not well-tuned. By aligning the blades with the fletching, you force every broadhead to sit on the rest the exact same way. That way, if the bow is not well-tuned, all the arrows are affected by the same set of aerodynamics and plane the same amount. If your bow is well-tuned, it shouldn't make any difference. I have known bowhunters shooting two-blade heads align the blades with the paper tear. In other words, if their arrows are tearing high and left, they line up their broadheads so that when the arrow is resting on the bow, the blades of the broadhead are from high left to low right (in line with the tear). This reduces wind planing. It is not as easy to do that with a three-blade head because they don't form a straight line across the arrow. Good luck.
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Ron from MO asks:Hi Bill, After you have broadhead tuned your bow at say 20 yds and you are hitting where you should be,will your bow hit well at 30 and 40 yds. also.I ask this because I had to move my arrow rest to the right about one sixteenth of a inch and Im not sure what this does to the center shot that I had with field points. Thanks for your time, RonWinke Responds:Ron, Generally, I shoot mechanicals (Rocket Steelheads) so they hit right in the same spot as my field points. However, when shooting fixed-blade heads, you often have no option but to move your sights from where they were for field points - at least very slightly - to where they need to be for broadheads. In other words, as you fine tune your bow for broadheads, you may find that your field points will hit just a bit to one side. With enough tweaking on a good bow you can often eliminate this difference, but not always. Not all bows produce perfect nock travel and perfect arrow flight. Besides, it may not be worth the time. As long as the hunting arrows are flying straight and hitting where you aim, there is not a lot more you need them to do. You are better off just moving the sights or getting a second sight body to use only for broadheads.
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Scot from FL asks:Hey, I love the website and the videos. I am new to archery and would like to learn more about tuning my bow. I have a single cam Mathews and PSE. I have noticed that the peep sight has turned so it does not line up when I draw the bow back. I recently bought a bow press and would like to learn how to fix the problem. I have heard that twisting the string will work but I don't know how to do that. Could you please make a video so I can actually see it being done. Thank you so much for all you're doing to help bownhunters like me.Winke Responds:Scot, I will do that. Actually, it is pretty simple. Just press the bow as the bow press instructs and then take the top of the string off the post on the cam. Pay attention to how it wraps around the cam. Add a twist or two in the direction of the existing spiral and then put it back on and take the bow out of the press and give it a try. Keep doing this until the peep comes back square. After awhile you will learn that roughly 1 twist equals a 3/4 turn of the peep. You can roughly calibrate the number of twists to the string needed in that way. Good luck.
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Mohammad Ali from MI asks:is it really important that you change your tubing, what if i dont, ABOUT how much does tubing cost?Winke Responds:It is really cheap. It is basically surgical tubing. I would just change it every fall before you start to hunt so you never have to worry about it dry-rotting and breaking on you.
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Wayne from PA asks:On a bow setup with a drop away arrow rest should the rest drop as soon as possible or should it drop just in time to clear the flechings, Keep up the good work, Thanks WayneWinke Responds:Wayne, Ideally, just in time to clear the fletchings. That will provide some stabilizing support so the arrow doesn't have to find its own center as soon as the string is free. You can experiment with the cord length to find this point, but in practical terms, you don't have a lot of leeway because if you try to make the cord too short, you will put way too much stress on the rest as the cord pulls hard against it on every draw. So realistically, you can either add a stiff spring to the cord to permit you to pull the rest up sooner and drop it later, or just set it up so the rest hits full height when the string is about three inches short of full draw. That is a rough estimate. The launcher will stay up longer when you release the string because the rest won't drop immediately. It takes a bit of time to overcome the inertia of the rest arms and get them going, so even though the rest is up 3 inches before full draw it may guide the arrow for six or seven inches as it is beginning to drop. I hope that helps.
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ian from WI asks:Just got back from the archery shop. 2006 Hoyt Vtec pulling 70 shooting 277 with 435grain arrows with a 31inch draw. Is this an ok set up possibly a little slow? I read a recent article that 290 is a good number to shoot for. I have also read u like to have a 20 yard pin on your bows. (I can't get enough of your articles apparently!!) I have a three pin sight and now that the draw weight is up from 58 to 70 the arrow isn't dropping but maybe 1/2 to 1 inch out to 30 do u think I could get away with pins at 30,40, and 50 yards? Or do u think I should keep the 25 and 30 pins touching on the sight and have the third at 40? More info: I'm hunting suburban fence lines and have the opportunity at shots out to 50 but probably won't shoot past forty. Although last season all three deer I shot where with 25yards;on at 5yards. I'm torn once you start messing around its can get crazy. although it is only april I got lots of time until Sept 14!Winke Responds:Ian, I think that is a pretty fast set up. Sure, there are faster bows out on the market now than the Vtec, but it is a solid performer. If you want three pins, to go to 50 yards, I would probably set up at 25, 35 and 45 and then remember to hold a few inches high at 50. You are not going to get a lot of 50 yard shots in Wisconsin so I wouldn't get too excited on the long end. Focus on really dialing in the 25 and the 35 yard pins and you will be happy. I think you have plenty of time to get used to a 25 and 35 yard pin. Also remember that you will likely have to hold a bit low on close shots (ten yards) from the tree stand with that 25 yard pin. Practice in a tree and you'll get it figured out. Never take anything for granted. Be sure to test everything so there are no surprises. Good luck.
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mohammad from MI asks:my bow has a draw length from 17 to 30 and its draw weight is from 16-52 lb so if i put the draw length on 22 what is the draw weight? also do you have any recommendations where i should hunt in michigan for big bucks?Winke Responds:Mohammad, My guess is that the draw weight goes up in relation to the draw length on that bow. Without knowing more about the model, that is my guess as I have seen bows like that on the market. So, you are 5/13 of the way to maximum draw weight. I would say it is roughly pounds, possibly a bit more or less. In Michigan, you need to find areas where others hunters don't venture in large numbers. That usually means places that are hard to get to, like islands or swamps places like that. If you look hard you will find places that are too hard to get to for most hunters. That is where I would look. Good luck.
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Jordan from IN asks:i changed my draw length the other day and now when i shoot it throws the arrows wayy down. im using same everything except draw length. any ideas whats going on?Winke Responds:Jordan, My guess is that you changed where the string terminates on only one cam. That will move the center of the string. Go back and check, I bet your nocking point on the string is much higher now than it was before. Simply move that back down and you should be good to go. If you have a peep sight in the string, you will need to move that down too to keep the same distance from nocking point to peep sight. The nocking point had to move for you to see what you are seeing.
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Jamie from IA asks:I just put new strings on my bow and have recently got it retuned and sighted in but my arrow seem to corkscrew. At 20 yards its not very noticable but when i back up to 30 its really noticable. Im shooting a 2007 hoyt vulcan with a drop away and 400 grain arrows. Any suggestions? ThanksWinke Responds:Jamie, It can be a number things that are different but since all you changed was the string and harness and (I assume) not the rest, it is likely to be: 1. improper timing. the cams may be way out of time because the harnesses are not exactly the same length. You can check by drawing and watching to see if the harnesses touch the end of the top and bottom cam tracks at the same time at the end of the draw. Shorter the longer one by twisting it. 2. String is a slightly different length. This likely won't cause tuning issues, but would affect draw weight and draw length. 3. Nock point not in the same place as before - either too high or too low. Those are the main things you would need to look at that would affect arrow flight. If you have changed anything besides the string and harnesses you need to consider the results of those changes too. Good luck.
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Terry from NC asks:Just put a winers choice string and cables on my Drenalin. Should i twist the string or take twist out to get peep to rotate square? Also shoot a loop, should i tie nock sets in or just tie loop and nock arrow. Good luck on the shed hunting, can't wait for the show!Winke Responds:Terry, Thanks. We are going to get after them starting tomorrow. I would twist it tighter to get the peep rotated correctly. You get roughly .75 turns of the peep for each full twist of the string when you do this. My shooting mentor is Randy Ulmer and he recomends tying a spacer below the arrow's nock (between it and the bottom knot) to offset the loop very slightly downward to produce a slight amount of down pressure between the arrow and the rest. Personally, I still attach my release right to the string. Not even Randy has been able to talk me out of that yet. I like that approach for speed of hook up when hunting. I don't do enough target shooting to alter my rig just for the targets. If I shot a lot of targets, I am sure I would use a loop and a back tension release.
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jordan from IN asks:how far back should i be able to draw my bow back? should my lip be able to touch the string or just the release?Winke Responds:Jordan, With your head upright, the string should ideally touch the tip of your nose or just a bit farther back. Your elbow should point straight behind you, away the target, at full draw. If you feel you are having a hard time getting it pointed straight behind you, the draw is either too short or too long. That should get you pretty close.
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Brent from KS asks:Hey Bill. Love the show and really enjoy following the show as the season progresses. I just recently purchased a Mathews Z7 and I have it set at a 77lb draw weight and a 29.5 draw length. I am wondering on what arrow and what arrow weight you recommend. I am leaning toward the Easton Full metal jacket for its penetration cababilities. Currently I am shooting Easton flatlines that weigh 8.2gpi and have a total arrow weight of around 385 grains which is the 5 grain minimum per pound of draw weight and it is shooting around 306fps. I am wanting to keep my arrows fast but want to shoot a little heavier arrow. What size FMJ should I shoot or are there any other arrows you would recommed? What setup do you shoot and what are your specs? Would switching to a 125 grain broadhead do me any good? I will be deer hunting with my setup. Thanks for your time.Winke Responds:Brent, I think you may be running a bit light on the arrow weight right now. However, there are many who feel that 5 grains per pound is fine. I like to see the number up around 6 to 6.5 grains per pound as a good compromise between speed, quiet and penetration. At your draw weight and draw length, you might be able to get by with the FMJ 400. That weighs 10.2 grains per inch so you are going to add the one grain per pound that I think you should be adding. However, I am not 100% sure it will be stiff enough since I don't know your exact arrow length (only your draw length). Assuming your arrow is roughly 26.5 to 27 inches, you might be able to get by with that arrow. If not, you will need the 340 and that adds another grain per inch or about 1/3 grain per pound. That is probably the shaft I would be shooting if I were you - the 340. I shoot 80+ pounds, 32 inch draw, 29 inch arrow, Axis N-Fused 300s or FMJ 300s. I get about 300 to 310 fps from the AlphaMax with that setup. I produce tons of kinetic energy. I have shot this heavy since I first started. My shoulders are fine, but if I shoot hundreds of arrows every day all year, I would definitely drop down to 70 pounds to save my rotator cuffs. I shoot heavy because I can still handle it accurately and because I want to be able to kill a buck if I hit him in the shoulder. When I can no longer handle the weight, I'll drop down.
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Scot from AL asks:Hey. I really like your website... My question is concerning how to realign the peep once it rotates. My peep has rotated (or the string has twisted)so that when I am at full draw the peep is turned about 45 degrees, making it difficult to see through. I have heard that "twisting the string" may fix the problem. Can you tell me how to fix the problem? I want to be able to repair it myself and am not sure how to do it..... Thanks.Winke Responds:Scot, You can indeed fix it by twisting the string, but you need access to a bow press. You have to take one end of the string off and twist the string in the direction of the existing spiral. YOu will gain roughly 3/4 of a turn on the peep sight for each twist you put in the string. So, since your peep is off by 45 degrees you will need either roughly 1 twist or three twists depending on which direction it is off and which way the string is twisted. Without getting too technical about this, simply start with one twist and see if that fixes the problem. If not, try two and then three. As stated, I am going to guess it will be either one or three twists that will get the job done for you. Good luck.
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Vince from TN asks:Bill, I was wondering how often you change your bow string out. I shoot year round and hunt all deer season from late September to early January with my bow. I keep the string waxed and the string has been on the bow for 2 years. It does'nt appear to be damaged. Will I gain anything by changing it out? Any reccomendations for a good bow string? Lastly, I just want to tell you how much I admire you and how you represent the sport. Your show is great and love all your articles as well. I have a passion for bowhunting whitetails and there's no doubt in my mind I've become a better at it because of you. Thanks for all you do! Best Regards, VinceWinke Responds:Vince, I would not change it. I only change them when they show signs of wear, or when I accidently cut them!!! I had one string last me for more than 7 years. Just to be on the safe side, I would remove the center serving and make sure that there are no problems under there and then either reserve it yourself or have the pro shop reserve it. Other than that, you should be fine. I appreciate your support and am glad that I was able to help you become a better bowhunter. That is the part of my daily work that I enjoy most. It is nice to able to help people. Have a great day.
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Dave from ME asks:Bill, How do you measure your draw length? I'm having a heck of a time figuring out my proper draw length. Every bow shop seems to have their own way of measuring and come up with different lenths. I'm a tall guy like you and figured maybe you could help. I'm 6'6" and have a wingspan of 79 1/8". A 31" draw length really opens up my options as to what bows I can get into, but want to make sure I'm not going too short on DL if that makes sense. Thanks for your help. Good luck in the late season. Happy Holidays! -Dave-Winke Responds:Dave, I would say you would be a 32 inch draw. I have the same wingspan (roughly) and that is what I shoot. You can shoot the 31 inch draw and simply bend your bow arm slighly to permit your release hand to hit the right anchor point. Personally, I like to use all the draw length that God gave me, but many people shoot with a bent bow arm so that is not out of the question. Good luck.
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Raymond from NC asks:There are no archery shops close by where I live the nearest one is over 3 hours away. I have been looking at some bows and I know that when you order it the draw weight is set at the peak so a 50-60 bow will be set at 60 pounds. My question is about the draw length if its a 27-29 inch draw length what will it usually come set on? Thanks BillWinke Responds:Raymond, I am not sure on that. It usually depends on the manufacturer. If I were you, I would look for a bow that allows you to adjust the draw length using rotating modules that don't require the use of a bow press. That way, you can easily adjust the draw length to fit even without quick access to a pro shop.
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Brandt from IL asks:Hi Bill, Great web show. I enjoyed watching your son get his first bow buck. I noticed during the show you mentioned Andrew was shooting a 24 lb draw weight. I know a lot of state regs require a minimum of 40 lbs. of draw. I've started my own son target shooting this year to develop his form and get ready for next year's season and I'm just curious how you get around the 40 lb draw rule. I'm not sure my son is ready to draw that much weight yet. Thanks.Winke Responds:Brandt, There is no minimum draw weight limit in Iowa, only a minimum arrow length (18 inches). I talked to the game warden about it before we went and he said, "Go for it." So we did. 24 pounds is Andrew's absolute max right now. Everytime I tried to rais it a couple more pounds he couldn't get the bow back. Iowa has very youth-friendly laws. I grew up hunting here and I am so glad for those opportunities. Good luck to you and your son.
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Woody from VA asks:D-Loop or Direct String Connection? I see you Direct String Connect. Is that better or just what your use too?Winke Responds:Woody, I do it because I can get hooked up faster than if I use a loop. I used a loop for a couple of years and never was totally comfortable with getting a quick hookup. When I go straight to the string, I know I will be locked and ready in a flash. I have had to make a few very fast shots at bucks over the years that I doubt I would have gotten if I was not connecting directly to the string. I don't feel that I give much if any accuracy.
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Zack from OH asks:Hey Bill i have another problem with my bow. i am shooting my field tips and they are on but when i shoot that rage practice tip is diving alot. they are the same grain.Winke Responds:My guess is that the bow is shooting the arrow tail high. Try shooting it through paper at about six feet to see which way the arrow is tearing. You can tape some printer paper across a hole you cut in a cardboard box to get a quick paper holder. You can tune with field points. If that is not it, then it is possible that your inserts are in crooked, that is much less likely than it was about six to eight years ago. My guess, the bow is shooting the arrow tail high. If so, it could be contact between the fletcing and the rest or possibly a nock point that is set high. There are also other possible causes, but start there.
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evan from IL asks:hey i was wondering what kind of extension package or what u would do to extend your bows string length. my span is about 34 inchs but on my bow its 29. having a longer trigger helps a little bit but my dad always says it still aint right. i can still shoot it good but im only 15 so its going to get longer and i was wondering what you would do it make the length longer. i want to buy the alphmax 35 but its still not 34 inchs. thanks..evan...fishhook illinois!Winke Responds:Evan, 34 inch draw? Are you sure about that? I'm 6'5" with pretty long arms and I'm only a 32 inch draw. Do this for me: stand facing the wall, make a fist with your left hand and press it against the wall. Now, while still facing the wall (don't turn to the side), have someone measure from the wall to the corner of your mouth. That is roughly your draw length. There is no way to make a bow set to max at 29 or 31 inches, shoot well at 34 inches. If you use a longer string you will throw off all the tuning and performance aspects of your bow. If you truly have a 34 inch draw, you will likely need one of the longer Hoyt boys rather than the AlphaMax 35. You may even need the 3000 series limbs.
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Michael from ON asks:Bill, I started watching the show online last fall and have become hooked to the site. The detailed information you give is awesome!! What is your archery set-up looking like for the fall? As far as bow, sights, rest, release, arrows, heads, etc?? Thanks, MichaelWinke Responds:Michael, Thanks for your support. I appreciate it. I'll be carrying a Hoyt AlpaMax 35 with Fuse accessories on it (they make some cool stuff that people don't know much about) and probably the Easton FMJ arrows. I am probably going to be using the Rocket Steelhead this year, but am not totally decided on broadheads at this time. I shoot a basic Scott-style caliper head that I got in 1991 when I worked for six months at High Country Archery! I have gone through five wrist straps on that thing, but the head still works great.
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Brian from MI asks:Hey Bill, lets say I set my bow up so my rest is at centershot and the arrow on the rest is in line with my cam and string and then I paper tune it. After doing this and going to the range to sight it in should my sight pins then be in line with my arrow, string and cam as well? If the pins are not in line after you sight it in and they are suppose to be does this mean I have issues with my form etc. Thanks for the great website, BrianWinke Responds:Brian, Thanks for your support. No, that is common. The pins will typically be to the left of the arrow and string for a right handed shooter. I am not 100% sure why that occurs, but rest assured it is very common and as long as the difference between the arrow/string and your pins is not, it is not an indication of poor shooting form. I am going to look into this a little bit more and come up with a good answer for you as to why this occurs. I'll come back at some point in the future and update this post. Good luck. Bill
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Jason from NY asks:I just started shooting hoyt bows. I was shooting single cam bows before and it was easy to work on them, one control cable and one string. If i wanted to add a twist or 2 to the string should i do the same to the 2 cables? Love your show and your look forward to your articles in archery mags, keep up the great work.thanks-Winke Responds:Jason, Thanks for your support. Yes, basically, you can still add twists the string all you want. You have two cables. The control cable is the one that attaches from the bottom cam to top limb (to the axles). That is the main one relating to timing. You may need to tweak the other harness slightly if the cams aren't perfectly timed, but remember the hybrids are less sensitive to timing issues than a conventional two cam but I still time them perfectly. You can have your Hoyt dealer do that for you after you have broken in the bow and you should never have to do it again. Good luck. Bill
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Jerod from TX asks:Ever hear of someone that could not shoot a Hoyt without getting a left tear( and subsequently broaheads hitting bad to the right) no matter the hand placement on the handle of the bow??? I been shooting since 1992. Back tension since 2005. I actually shot indoor one season and the week before state I got a Protec XT3000 and placed 7th out of 24 shooters in the freestyle division(599 113x). Any Hoyt under 40" ata I can't shoot. I've tried Protec XT2000, Ultratec XT2000, Supertec, 37 Ultra, Vectrix XL, Katera, Alphamax 32. I used a Protec XT3000 to shoot a hog in south Texas. My hand placement is what it shoot be. 45 degrees. I can shoot Mathews, Bowtech, Ross, etc..... I help out at the local Pro Shop, and I am divorced(6 years, wooohoooo!!!!!!!!!!) so I can try them as I please. :) I just found your website. I can't believe it, I'm on the net everyday and just happened to see your video on archerytalk of the ata. I'm on Episode 10. God Bless, Jerod PWinke Responds:Jerod, God Bless you as well. Thanks for your support. I am not sure why the bow tears to the left. I have seen it with some bows, but not the Hoyts I have shot. I would have to watch you shoot and look at your equipment, but if you are not getting the left tear with other bows it could be that you either are not well adapted to Hoyt's grip or you have a case of cam lean. There are a couple of things that can cause that. The axle holes may have been drilled a little crooked or one side of the soft yoke at the end of control cable could be shorter than other other. I had that happen once on my Ultra Tec but when I pulled the cam back around by twisting up one side, the arrows flew great again. If you are having trouble with all of them, it has to be your hand placement. That is all I can figure. Experiment a little and let me know what you learn. Thanks. Bill
