Stands and Stand Placement
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gavin from ID asks:what is the best tree stand for people who hunt thick forests?Winke Responds:Gavin, I am a fan of fixed-position, hang-on stands. Personally, I like the Muddy stands. I have been using them since before they sponsored our shows. They make a heavy stand from steel that is less expensive and a lighter stand from aluminum. Depending on how far you plan to carry the stands, that would factor into what the stands are made from. I like hang-on stands because you can get them into most trees - climbers will only work in certain types of trees. You never know for sure what you will find until you get the spot scouted out. Fixed stands are also quieter to climb into once they are set. Good luck. (4-10-12)
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Chris from MO asks:Would like to know if you take down your hang on style stands every year? I have 10 stands on my farm and take down the stands every year even when I plan on putting most of them back in the same tree year to year. I also try to replace my straps every three years. Just wanted to know if you leave your stands in the tree all year or if you have a maintenance routine that you follow.Winke Responds:Chris, You should take them down each year and look them over. Trees grow during the summer and that can cause some serious stress on your stands. Muddy offers a program where they will replace your straps for free if they show signs of wear. I would take advantage of that if you are using them. Good luck. (4-11-12)
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Brad from MO asks:Have you ever bow hunted out of a ladder stand? We have bought several ladder stands in the past and now that I have got serious about bowhunting I am considering replacing them all? You the man Bill keep the shows coming!Winke Responds:Brad, Thanks for the support! I wouldn't be too hasty on the stands. If they have been there for a while the deer aren't paying them any mind. However, if the stand area is low and not well concealed, it will hard for you to stay hidden in the tree. If that is the case, I would definitely re-set them or put them on the back of the tree in branches, etc. If they are just too short to get you up high enough to hide decent then I guess you have no choice but to start replacing them. Staying hidden is the key. Good luck. (3-31-12)
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Where do I place my stands along ditches? When is the best time to hunt western Iowa during the rut?John from VA asks:I hope to get drawn this year for Iowa. Where Im hunting there is alot of big ditches in the timber its hard to tell where to put a stand. Two years ago I was there the last week of Oct and the first week of Nov the rut was alot better the last two days I was there. I need help on the stand location and do you think I need to go earlier It hard to get the bucks in range in the rut. O ya its Loess hills western Iowa Thanks I love the web site and the show keep it up!!!Winke Responds:John, That is a good area for sure. I keep my stands near the tops of the ditches, close to where they start up near the ridgeline. That way the wind swirl is more controlled. Down over the sides of the ridges it can swirl pretty bad. You are hitting the right timeframe, I think. Weather plays a big factor, but the last few days of October and then around November 5 through 9, tend to be the best times most years. Good luck. (3-24-12)
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Jake from WI asks:Bill, The last 2 episodes have had some great info about scouting and finding good treestand sites for properties that have a lot of elevation change to them (creeks with steep banks and ditches). Do you have any tips or strategies for finding good stand sites on properties that are pretty much flat? On another note, Bubba's sheds are unreal! I hope you get to settle the score with him and G4 this fall...Winke Responds:Jake, You have to look for breaks in the cover. That is something we will cover at some point. Both terrain and cover create funnels so you need to focus on breaks in the cover: where one cover types meets another or where the cover thins down. If it is completely flat with no cover breaks you have a challenge. In that setting you have no choice but to create food plots and thickets in the cover to help you establish some kinds of patterns. I appreciate the support and look forward to seeing what Bubba looks like this coming year. Best to you. (3-23-12)
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Tim from IA asks:Bill, Love the show, and most of all your witness and humility in presenting it. Do you loosen straps on your hang-on stands that are left out to allow for tree growth, or do you remove them? Thanks and keep up the great work.--TimWinke Responds:Tim, Thanks for the support. I generally do loosen them and then take the stands down every couple of years to replace the straps. Muddy has a program where you can send in your old strap and they will replace it with a new one free of charge. Have a great day. (3-18-12)
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Nathan from MN asks:Hey Bill what your opion on permanent stands? Hope to see response soon. Thanks for the great show and take care.Winke Responds:Nathan, They are OK as long as they are safe. I have never seen a truly "permanent" stand. Eventually they start to fall apart. I would be sure, if you build one, that you do what is necessary to keep it hidden in the tree and put it up well before the season (now would be ideal) so the deer get used to it. Good luck. (3-4-12)
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How often do you move your stands? If you see a deer passing in the distance do you move your stand?Luke from IL asks:Hi Bill the question that I have is if you find yourself moving stands alot from year to year or throughout the season or if when you see a deer you are hunting a couple times but aint quite close enough to close the deal do you leave the stand where it is and wait him out or do you try and move it to get in for a possible shot for the next time you see him. By the way I think that you guys have the best show out there and i look forward to the new shows on the site every week. keep it upWinke Responds:Luke, I don't move very often. If the stand makes sense I will leave it until I have an overwhelming amount of evidence that more deer are passing through a different area. Most of my stands are set up ideally for undetected entry and exit so I am reluctant to move them without a lot of evidence and experience in that area. It may take a couple of years before I move a stand if it makes sense in the first place. But usually once I move them, if I do, they are really good after that. I think it is a mistake to move them too much. Watch and learn and play the odds. Good luck. (2-26-12)
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Brandon from MO asks:Bill, I enjoy the show and website a lot, so thanks for all your information and tips you and the team share. I have two quick questions. 1) Is it ok to set a brand new ladder stand this Spring before crops go back into fields, or should I wait until the Fall crops are harvested? Wasn't sure if it is ok to leave ladder stands out. 2) Can you give more tips on how to select good evening bow stands during the rut? I have limited timber cover to hunt near big ag fields, and I feel like my morning spots are the same as the evening locations. Thanks Bill.Winke Responds:Brandon, 1. Now is a great time to set the ladder stand - the perfect time actually. You can leave them out for a while (I would not go too long because the tree will grow and that puts stress on the attachment system). 2. They may be the same. In some cases, that is all you have. However, in general, you like to set up in the direction the does are moving. If the does are moving toward thick cover (mornings) you should set up there. If the does are moving toward fields to feed (evenings) you need to be closer to the food. If you have very limited cover, the stands may actually overlap (funnels between food and bed). But then your number one challenge and the number one thing you need to consider when setting the stand is making sure you can get to it and from it without the deer knowing. That may be the number one thing that affects where you hunt. Good luck. (2-3-12)
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Hunter from MN asks:How high up do you recommend putting your treestand in a tree. On your shows it seems like the guys all have various heights but what would you recommend, and having a fear of heights are not involved?Winke Responds:Hunter, I like to be about 20 to 22 feet up. That is my ideal height, because it gives me a good angle to vitals on deer that are fairly close to the tree. If you get too high, the angle gets tough and you are more likely to get just one lung on deer that are 10 yards away, or less. In certain situations it pays be higher (when you need your scent to blow over downwind deer, for example, or when set up along a slope where the deer on the uphill side may otherwise be close to eye-level). I sometimes go as much as 25 feet but rarely ever higher. I tweak the height of the stand to get into as many branches as possible. I love being in a big oak right where several branches come out of the trunk. I then set up so that the big branches are roughly waist height when I am standing making it easy enough to shoot over them but using them for cover still. Good luck. (1-29-12)
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Bill from PA asks:Hi Bill...the clock is ticking on G4...will you risk bad wind or have someone drop you and Greg off at the blind by truck if you only have one day left?.....if he busts you will he remember next year?....another question....I have a new stand but on certain days the wind dictates that my only access is walking 200 yards through thick timber....bad move?Winke Responds:Bill, Thanks. I hope you are right. He won't remember it from year to year, no. I am not worried about that. I have don't think I will risk a bad wind if I think it is blowing right to him. Not sure, maybe I would on the last day. You never know exactly where they are bedding though I have a pretty good idea on this guy. The new route is a bad move for afternoon hunts, maybe not so bad for morning hunts when the deer are likely closer to the field edges in the predawn dark. Good luck. Happy New Year. (12-31-11)
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Rick from FL asks:Bill, Thanks for sharing all your great knowledge. My questions is what steps or climbing methods do you perfer and why? Say one system for a quickie set up and one for a permanent Thanks for sharing, RickWinke Responds:Rick, For a quick setup the Muddy Sticks work great. If I am going to leave the stand for more than a few days I will use screw in tree steps instead. I still really like them. They are solid and quiet when you climb them. Be sure to wear the harness's climbing strap/rope when putting up your stands. Never climb without being attached to the tree. Good luck. Merry Christmas (12-23-11)
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Matt from IL asks:Bill, Merry Christmas to you and you staff! What is your typical stand height? What are your thoughts on the Tree Saddle instead of a hang-on or climbing tree stand? I have been debating buying a Tree Saddle and am looking for some constructive advise. Thank you, MattWinke Responds:Matt, Thanks and Merry Christmas to you too. Typically I am about 18 to 22 feet up. Tree Saddles will work. I have messed with them some. For me I like having my feet on something solid (you can put steps in with the saddle for your feet). Also, I often hunt a stand several times in a season so I don't want to be hooking up the saddle each time. They do work. They may be best suited for places where you are moving around a lot or on public land where you can't leave a stand. Good luck. Merry Christmas. (12-23-11)
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jason from IL asks:do you think that a climber stand is safe? have you ever used one?Winke Responds:Jason, I don't like them. I have used them several times when hunting in the south. I guess they are quiet with some patience, not sure about that on a still morning, but I have had a couple of close calls with safety. I once had the platform slip off my feet and fall to the ground when I was about ten feet up. Fortunately I was able to shinny down down through the hand climber and drop to the ground, but if I had been higher (or older) I might have been in a really tight spot. I know they are made much better now and are safer, but I still favor fixed-position stands for safety, quiet climbing (once set), flexibility (you can set up in most trees) and also convenience (you don't have to carry them in and out once set). Good luck. (11-24-11)
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Zachary from OH asks:Hey Bill. I have been noticing the deer patterns are changing around our place. Should I move my stands to where I am seeing the activity or should I keep my stands where they are and hold tight? Thanks.Winke Responds:Zachary, I think you have to adjust. You can always move back if the new setup proves less than perfect or if the new patterns are temporary. I always try to stay mobile. Things change all the time. Good luck. (11-24-11)
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Rick from PA asks:My friends and I have 350+ acres of private hunting land. Years ago it was a cow pasture that has now grown into heavy brush with surrounding wooded area. We are constantly arguing about treestand placement and the number of treestands. They add treestands year after year and we are now up to over 40 treestands, some of which are within 100yds of each other. They do no scouting and just place treestands at random. In my opinion its getting way out of hand. What are your thoughts on the number of treestands to place in a particular area?Winke Responds:Rick, I would say you are maxed out now. I am not so worried about the number as I am about making sure that each stand serves a purpose and hunting it doesn't mess up another area (such as walking in to one stand impacting deer in a different area). That is when you have too many stand. My guess is that you have too many stands and the deer are being impacted too much by people hunting the wrong stands at the wrong time and using the wrong routes to and from the stands. You either have to live with it, find a way to politely educate the guys or find a new group to hunt with. My advice - education is the best bet. Good luck. (12-8-11)
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Tyler from IA asks:Bill, I am hunting a farm that is new to me this season. I have put up 4 stands on the 80 acres and have had good luck on 2 of them the question is how long should I hold out on the other two stands before changing locations for them. I feel they are in good spots but I have seen only a few deer from these locations. Additionally I was wondering how many stands you would recommend for an area the this size. Nice job on tagging two giants in one season, WOW. Thank you TylerWinke Responds:Tyler, I always give a location that makes sense at least two seasons before I give up on it. Things have a way of averaging out over time. It is possible to have a few good days on stand and think the spot is awesome or a few bad days elsewhere and think the stand stinks, but over time that all gets averaged out. I think you can hunt even more than four stands as long as they are set up carefully so that your entry and exit is not detected and the wind never blows to deer. I spent two seasons (2004 and 2005) hunting just 30 acres (there was a giant buck living there - he got away - another story) and I had 6 stands in there. I was very careful, but they all remained effective stand locations all season. Good luck. (11-29-11)
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Clark from OH asks:Good afternoon Bill. First off I want to say that I really enjoy this website and your videos, as well as the rest of the state videos. I live in Central Ohio but am originally from Eastern Ohio near Jason Huntsman. His family and mine attended church together growing up so I've known him and his parents for many years. I've had the chance to talk to him a little bit about the Ohio show and all the work that goes into the production. I appreciate all the work you guys do for us to enjoy. Yesterday I finally had the chance to watch the video of your G5 buck kill. That was an amazing hunt and awesome footage. Thanks for sharing it! I did have a question about the height of your stand. It appears that it is very high from the footage. Is that exxagerated by the video or is your stand really that heigh (if so, how high?). What is the typical height of your treestands? Thanks, -- ClarkWinke Responds:Clark, Good to hear from you. It must just be the video exagerating the height of the stand. I would say that stand is about 22 feet up, not more than that. Most of my stands are between 18 and 22 feet. Have a great day and thanks for the support. (11-25-11)
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Bert from SC asks:Do you ever use a climbing stand? If yes, which one do you prefer? Thank you for your help and for a great website.Winke Responds:Bert, I know they are commonly used in the area where you live (the south in general) but I don't use them. Up here the trees aren't straight and limbless so you are really limited as to which ones you can hunt from. I have hunted from climbers, but not in the Midwest, only when hunting in the south. I haven't done it enough to even have an opinion on which ones are the best. Sorry about that. Good luck. (11-27-11)
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Dave from IL asks:Bill, Congratulations on an unbelieveable season! From your videos it seems that you set your stands very high in the tree. What is the average height of your tree stands? Thank you for representing us so well!Winke Responds:Dave, That must just be an illusion due to the wide angle lens perspective required as the buck came in close. They are typically between 18 and 22 feet high. I think that one is likely 22 feet - not any higher I don't think. I appreciate the support. Have a great day. (11-27-11)
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Randy from PA asks:What is the average distance and time you walk from your vehicle to your stand? Just wondering about how many minutes you need to get to your stand and the possible exposure to deer you are going to hunt. Congratulations on your great deer. Thanks, RCWinke Responds:Randy, Thanks buddy. I pick the routes entirely to reduce that exposure so some of them are shorter than others depending on which route keeps me from being detected. That said, my average walk is probably 500 yards. Average time is six or ten minutes probably, depending on the route - ditches take much longer because of the awkward rocky footing. Good luck. (11-23-11)
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Bryan from PA asks:Bill, First of all Congrats on Daggers! I've noticed most of your stands are in big Oak trees. Is that just a coincidence that you have a good tree near a good funnel or area where allot of trails converge or is it that you look for the best tree in a general area and rely on calling a buck into range once you spot him?Winke Responds:Bryan, I usually have a few options within range of the spot where I want to be, since our farm has a lot of trees. I like the big oaks because it is easier to hide among their big branches. They also sway less in high winds and that really helps the shooting and the video. Good luck. (11-15-11)
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Rajau from LA asks:On average how high are your tree stands?Winke Responds:Rajau, I generally place them between 18 and 22 feet high. This keeps me above the peripheral vision of the deer but low enough to offer a good shot to the vitals. Good luck. (11-5-11)
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Rajau from LA asks:On average how high are your tree stands?Winke Responds:Rajau, I set most of mine between 18 and 22 feet. 20 is about average for me. I think that height gives keeps me out of sight of the deer (most of the time) but still permits a good shot angle to the vitals. Good luck. (11-6-11)
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Brett from IA asks:I just watched an episode where Mike Alberta hung a stand in a tree with a big poison oak vine along the trunk. I hope he doesn't get a big rash. Do you have any tricks/advice on dealing with that stuff. It seem one out of every two trees has a vine on it! I usually try and cut it out with long sleeves and gloves the first time I hang the stand. Sometimes I get it sometimes I don't!Winke Responds:Brett, If you wash right away, you can eliminate most issues. It is the oil on the leaves that reacts with your skin to cause the rash. I get it really, really bad, so I know all about it. But if you wash right away, even without soap, and get those clothes into the washer right away, you can do OK. Of course, the best thing is to always wear long sleeves and gloves when hanging in spots like that. Wash right away afterwards. Good luck. (10-28-11)
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clay from OK asks:How high up in the tree do you need to be? my uncle hung all the stands this year and there not high off the ground at all maybe 8 or 9 feet. Ive been spotted in the tree three times already this season but ive also killed deer out of the same stands this season. What is the lowest you would ever hang a stand?Winke Responds:Clay, I think you are way too low, even if you are behind the tree. I would be at least 15 feet. Personally, I like to be 18 or more. 20 to 22 is ideal in my mind. Good luck. (10-26-11)
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steve from NY asks:Hello, First off I love the show! I watch it everyday and learn new stuff all the time from it so thank you. I was wondering how far up the tree your stands are? Or at least how high would you like to be, if the tree doesn't limit you. I was in the woods the past 2 days and my stands are only about 12 feet and 15 feet off the ground. Both times a doe walked by and saw me up in the tree then turned right around and walked away, and I think its because my stands are to low.Winke Responds:Steve, Thanks for your support. I appreciate it. I hunt about 18 to 22 feet up. Most of the time right at about 20 feet. That gives me a good angle to the vitals but keeps me up a ways so the deer aren't likely to see me. 12 to 15 is pretty low, but it can be done if you set up on the back of the tree and use the tree to hide behind. Good luck. (10-24-11)
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Wendell from GA asks:Bill, I appreciate your love for hunting & the knowledge you have about the sport. One of my favorite days to be in the woods is Nov. 7th as well as you. Things just seem to happen that day. My friends and I will be heading to Ohio on Nov. 6th and not arriving until after dark that day. Obviously I want to hunt as much as i can that next day. When do you suggest hanging my stand? Should I go in early, hang it and then hunt it immediately. Hang stand in the dark the night before, or hang it and not hunt till later that day. Which is the best outcome for not spoking the deer? tksWinke Responds:Wendell, I would hang the stand that morning. Just go in early and take your time. I have done it before and if you are careful and give yourself the time needed, it can work out fine. If the spot is not perfect once the sun comes up, you can always move it slightly after the morning hunt. I did this one time in KS and nearly shot a 160 inch buck. I was just finishing up (it had just turned light) and here he comes. I was set up near a small river on an inside bend of the river and he was coming in to bed in the thick weeds that grow up right at the edge of the river. Anyway, the lesson learned: give yourself plenty of time. Good luck.
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Kaden from IA asks:Hey Bill, I have moved alot of stands this year. I went from sitting on field edges to moving to travel corridors. The past few years I have sat over fields and watched them chase and sparr but, I cant get them close enough for a shot. For example I'm finding ways to pinch down the deer into small areas like I put a stand on a fence row and there is about a 30 yard window from the fence to the creek. This location is attaching bedding areas. I also have used bluffs and creeks to pinch them down a little. Do you think this will work?Winke Responds:Kaden, Absolutely. You have hit on the key to bowhunting. You have to get away from the obvious stands and focus on places where you can get a close easy shot. It is fun to watch deer in the fields, but when it comes to shooting them, nothing beats a funnel or narrow travel corridor. Good luck.
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Nicole from OH asks:I have recently started using a climber to hunt from. I do find them to be handy In most situations, but I am worried that all noises they make may decrease my odds. I am just curious to know what your opinion is of them.Winke Responds:Nicole, I won't beat around the bush. I don't like them. They are too noisy for me, I don't like carrying them in each time I hunt. I don't like having to use them in the dark in the morning. I have also had some bad experiences (safety-wise) with climbers over the years. I would much, much rather hang the lock-on and then be able to sneak in and hunt it quietly for the rest of the season. If you have trouble hanging stands, then maybe the climber is your best choice, or a good ladder stand. I personally have never liked climbers. Good luck.
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steve from AL asks:Congrats for the best hunting show on the net. What is the average height of the tree stands you guy's hunt? Kind of hard to estimate on a pc screen SB Quebec, CanadaWinke Responds:Steve, Thanks for your support! My average is between 18 and 22 feet, usually right around 20 feet. Each tree is different because I try to get into a few branches or forks for added cover but that is roughly how high I try to get on most sets. That is high enough to stay above their peripheral vision, but low enough to offer a good shot to the vitals. If you go higher, you can elude more deer (keep your scent higher for one thing), but the shot gets tougher too. Good luck.
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Jeremy from IN asks:I recently found a heavily traveled deer trail going from a corn field through a stretch of woods thats about 50 yards wide with a creek going through it. the woods & creek go E to W, & the deer travel from S(corn)to N(soy beans)of an evening. The center of the woods is open with several good trees for my climber stand. Should I set my stand at the S(corn)where they come in to, center of woods where they go through, or or N(soy beans)where they come out stay and eat. There is anywhere from 5 - 15 deer there. Where should I first set my stand. I'm an archer only, and only have 1 stand, and no ground blind, but on the N(soy bean) side there is quite a bit of brush to make a make-shift blind. On the N side at the tree line there is about 5'-8' of brush give or take, and its around 5'-6' tall. How would you aproach this? My season starts 10/1 so if you could get back soon befor then IT WOULD BE MUCH APPRECIATED. THANKS, I love your show and the knowledge I come away with from theWinke Responds:Jeremy, I would set up in the middle of the woods or nearer the corn. I would not set up near the beans for two reasons. 1. They will see you when you climb down to leave. 2. The beans will likely get picked first (or stop being attractive to the deer first) making that food source much less of a draw for the deer. Again, lean toward the cornfield side, but stay in the woods. Good luck.
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Jordan from MO asks:Bill, Last October, I had a real nice 140" 8 pt. sneak up behind me in my stand. Over a span of 3 days, I had roughly 25 deer walk underneath my stand without any spooking. However, this nice 8 pt snuck up behind me roughly 20 yards without presenting a shot. Having deer all over me I didn't expect him to look up at me. As I began to draw back, he glanced up and galloped off, but didn't snort. Will I be able to hunt this same deer in the same spot without him looking up again?Winke Responds:Jordan, Not anytime soon. I would move the stand at least 100 yards. I have had this happen too and have later seen the same buck giving my stand a wide berth while looking at it the entire time. I would say you need to give it at least a month before he forgets about it or until he passes that tree often enough without seeing anything and finally stops looking up there. That has been my experience at least. Good luck.
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Chris from LA asks:The perfect tree for a funnel I'll be hunting in Kansas happens to be a large thorn tree. It is LOADED with thorns. What would you do?Winke Responds:Chris, You can cut the thorns off. I have done it before. It takes a while (I am guessing it is a locust). You can also use a ladder stand reducing greatly the number of thorn clusters you have to remove. Muddy makes a good 20 foot ladder that hides well in a tree. That is another option, probably a better one than trying to cut off all those thorn clusters all the way up the tree.
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paul stringer from TN asks:Bill,I really appericate the outstanding insights and information. Thanks for all you do to include the average hunter in your thought processes....What is the ideal height for a tree stand to help with both sight and smell when hunting mature bucks with a bow...Thanks for your time...PaulWinke Responds:Paul, I like to set mine from 18 to 22 feet most of the time. I am most interested in staying concealed so I like to set the stand in a spot where I can hide behind branches and leaves. That affects my stand height choices too. However, this general height gives good concealment most of the time, is above their peripheral vision and keeps your scent off the ground for at least a short ways (maybe 10 yards). It is also low enough to permit a good shot angle to the vitals. Some guys go higher and it makes sense, but I just don't the shot angle. Plus, I am afraid of heights, but I am fine to about 22 feet, above that it seems to get to me and the hunt is not as enjoyable for me. Good luck.
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rob from IA asks:Ok Bill ya gotta let me in on the "extra work" part of using a lock on stand compared to a climber. i`ve only restarted hunting about three years ago and did`nt think i had a choice of using a lock on stand vs a climber. do you set these when your alone? or is that the real reason for a cameraman? i hunt mostly public land so speed of setup is my goal.Winke Responds:Rob, I have been hunting out of lock on stands since I was a kid. No I set my own and I set the camera stand too. I have set so many stands in my life that I just feel like I should do it. There are decisions you have to make about shot angles, etc. that benefit from experience (and many times doing it wrong) so I always set the stands. They are definitely more work, but you only do it once per year. Then the stand is good to go all season. I feel that using a lock on stand is much quieter and more flexible (more possible trees) than using a climber. Climbers only work in certain trees and we don't have a lot of those kinds in much of the central core of the Midwest. If you only hunt public land then that is a different story. You may choose to carry the stand out with you each time. In that situation, I would use a very light stand and climbing sticks. Muddy's sticks are very light and fast and are ideal for someone hunting public land. If you leave the stand, you can easily remove the sticks and bring them back in when you come back to hunt. Good luck.
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Amos from WI asks:I recently found a good spot for my hang on stand, but the tree i put my stand in doesn't leave me with much cover. Is there anything I can do to improve my chances of not being detected?Winke Responds:Amos, Cut branches right now, while they are full of leaves, and attach them in the tree at stand height. They will hold their leaves all season and as the tree drops its leaves, the deer will be used to that blob of leaves up there. It will be part of their natural envirnoment. You can use wire, or pipe hangers, etc. to hold the branches in place, but do it now before the leaves start turning. Good luck.
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cody from MN asks:Bill- What are your thoughts on ladder stands? Some people debate whether deer may be able to pick them off easier and so forth. I see you use screw in steps in some stands so wanted to see what your thoughts are.Winke Responds:Cody, I think ladders are fine. It is best to get them out well ahead of time (a few weeks for sure) since it is something that the deer will have to sniff a few times to get comfortable with. I wouldn't shy away from them. Good luck.
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Todd from MA asks:Hi Bill, looking forward to the next season of your show. My question is about treestands. I am purchasing my first one this weekend and i was reading the manual ahead of time, i got it online. It stated not to leave your stand up for more than 3 weeks..So is it a good practice to remove the stand and reset it back up after an inspection. Its kind of confusing and seems like a lot of work to be messing with stands like that during the season. Anyway I look forward to your reply.. Take Care ToddWinke Responds:Todd, I am sure that is the company line to avoid any liability if someone leaves a stand up for too long and it gets damaged by weather, exposure to UV or even squirrels eating through the strap. Either way, it is good to take it down regularly. Not sure if every three weeks is reasonable, but it probably makes sense to take them down between seasons. Good luck.
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Mike from OH asks:RE: Tree Stands Hi Bill, love the show. Glad to see that you are growing the brand and getting recognition. I have tried several shows and yours is the most down-to-earth and straight forward. My question is regarding tree stands. I harvested a great buck in an oak grove last year from a 16' ladder stand. I will place it there again, but am looking to add a hanger to another grove area that faces a more open meadow of golden rod. It is defnitely bedding ground and I bounced a buck from this area last year on a spot and stalk, while trying to fill a doe tag. How high do you recommend placing a hanger? The sticks go 20', and I am not crazy about heights. I don't want to mess with screw-in pegs either. Thanks again for the show, I am enjoying the new episodes so far. Good luck this year! Kind regards, Mike CoatesWinke Responds:Mike, Thanks for the support. It keeps moving along. We don't have major star power, but we do hunt good deer on our own farms and people seem to like that. I typically hunt anywhere from 18 to 22 feet, usually. I try to get into the first set of big branches in the tree for cover and then set the stand on the back of the tree away from the direction I expect the deer to come from. 20 feet should be plenty high enough, but just to be sure, pick a tree with decent cover. Have a great day and good luck.
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Tyler from MN asks:Bill I cannot express enough how excited I am for the 2011 season to start for both you and I. I have not been able to Bow Hunt for the last 2 years due to being in college. Come August I will be graduating and starting my new job. When September comes around you'd better believe I will be found hanging in a tree in West Central MN, bow in hand. Good luck to you this season, i am looking forward to watching your shows. Now with the question. I will be participating in the Camp Ripley hunt this season in Central MN, lord willing (State Shutdown). I was wondering what your thought is on using a climbing stand vs a portable hang on stand and sticks in this situation. We have to take our stands and sticks down and out each night when we leave. I enjoy the ease of use with a climbing stand, but it is hard to find that perfect "climbing tree". Also with a climber you usually stick out like a sore thumb. So ease of use vs practicality?? Most hang on stands with sticks pacWinke Responds:Tyler, Thanks for your support and good luck this season. Personally, I would never take the chance that the right tree is too crooked for a climber. I don't like them and never have. There is not a good enough reason to get me to carry a climber when I can carry sticks and a hang-on and know that every tree is a potential stand location. Yes, in the deep south climbers can make sense, but not here in the Midwest. Do the little bit of extra work to know you will be able to set up where you need to. Should be a fun hunt. I have never hunted Ripley but many of my friends have. Good luck.
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cody from MN asks:How much have your tree stand locations changed from when you first started making the show in 08?Winke Responds:Cody, I wouldn't say mine have changed much at all. I may have added a few, but I had been hunting this farm since 2002 so I had them in pretty good spots by 2008. We have to make small adjustments still, but overall the stand locations have changed little. Have a great day.
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Matt from GA asks:Hey Bill love your website. I wanted your advice on when to hang my deer stands. Im about two months out here in Georgia from bow season and I was wondering if I should go ahead and hang them now or wait until closer to season? Or does it even matter? I just wonder if I go ahead and hang them now if it will give the deer more time to get used to them. Thanks.Winke Responds:Matt, If you can get the job done effectively at this time, that is the better route. The sooner the better, but if you need to wait for some reason, it is not a huge deal as long as you give the deer a couple of weeks after the disturbance. I always tell people to run a chainsaw and cut a few random saplings down as you walk in so all the fresh cutting is not concentrated at your stand site and the deer have plenty of time to clear out ahead of you, but that is only for situations where you have to wait until shortly before you hunt the stand to put it up. Being this far in advance, there are no special precautions you need to take. Good luck.
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drew from IL asks:hey bill i just want to say i watched all your films last year and they really helped me better understand deer behavior and ways to better hunt them. I am 16 years old and im really starting to like deer hunting more and want to manage 40 acres that i own. My question is about stand placement. There are 2 thick sections of woods that i do not own on each side of my property one is a feeding area and one is a bedding area. My property sits right between them and is a thin section of thick woods that is about 10 acres surrounded by 30 acres that is planted in corn every year. What I believe is that i will see the majority of deer early in the morning or late at night while the are passing through. Do you agree? If so is there any way to better attract them to stay on my property? Also do you think that i should put a stand up on a field edge at an opening or deeper into the woods along a trail? Thanks for all the help.Winke Responds:Drew, I would tend to agree with you as long as you have read the situation correctly. But my question is this: why wouldn't they also feed in your 30 acres of corn and bed in your 10 acres of thick cover? My guess is that they do. I would tend to hunt the fringes so I would not go deeply into the woods when you have so little cover. I would watch and learn as I hunted the fringes of the cover (overlooking a trail that usually occurs about 20 yards to 30 yards into the cover). Then if you see something that you can move on from there, it makes sense to move at that time. However, just be sure not to assume that the deer don't feed or bed on your property. I am betting that when undisturbed, they do. Good luck.
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Carter from NC asks:I have about a 100 acre piece of family owned hunting land behind my house. On this land there is a soybean field to the north and a wheat field to the SE meeting at a corner to form a pinch-point near a creek. On the opposite side of the Creek in one of the corners would it be smart to plant a food plot covering about 1/4 of an acre in a clear cut or just set up a treestand in the corner of the clearcut overtop of the pinch-point.Winke Responds:Carter, Absolutely plant it. That will make a perfect staging area. I love spots like that. The deer come out in the small plot to feed a bit before heading to the bigger fields making for a great place to cut them off. Good luck.
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Allen from PA asks:Hi Bill, I was doing some late winter scouting and found some promising bedding area spots for next year's rut. I cleaned out some shooting lanes but I still need to do some trimming when I hang my stands. Now both spots are on the edges of the bedding areas rather than right in them. So, I’m hoping to hang them without too much disturbance. My question is. When do you think I should hang my stands? I always worry about rodents chewing my ratchet straps if I hang them too early. Thanks!Winke Responds:Allen, My guess is that you can hang them in August and be just fine. I doubt the deer will have any worries about your being there at that time. I would make plenty of noise going in, maybe fire up a chainsaw a few times as you get out of the truck and approach. Run them out well ahead with loud noises and they will not think anything of it. Good luck.
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Todd from MA asks:Hi: Just recently tuned into your program and love it. In Mass. open space is becoming more of a challenge to find decent hunting areas. Fortunately we are on a cranberry preserve so we have several acres rich with deer. Do you have any tips on picking the best spot to place your stand? Thanks in advcance..... Todd from MassWinke Responds:Todd, That is a big subject. Let me give you the beginning of wisdom and then let you percolate on it a while. Most important is a location you can get to and from and hunt without deer knowing you are there. They have many means to determine we are there or have been and you have to first think your way through all of those before you start to look for places on your property that permit this undiscovered method. Hint - I look for the low-profile routes first and then try to find stands near them, rather than vice versa. Second, look for funnels, anything that brings more deer within range. It is a numbers game. Each hour adds to the result as does each trail within range. If you compress a lot of movement through one narrow band, your chances for success go up fast. Now to find a spot you can get and from that also funnels deer is the biggest challenge. That is the chess match and what makes stand hunting so much fun. It is like solving a puzzle that may take years to solve. Small moves and small tweaks can make a big difference. Good luck.
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Jake from MN asks:In another question you told someone that 9 feet for a tree stand is too low. If I'm using a hang-on, what would you say is the minimum height I should hunt at and why?Winke Responds:Jake, I think 12 feet is the minimum. I have hunted from ladders at that height and though I felt a little too visible, I did kill deer. But that was in areas with light hunting pressure. With more pressure, those deer might have been more sensitive to blobs in trees. If you can get behind some thick leaves and branches, that helps, and definitely set up on the back side of the tree (away from where you think the deer will approach from) so you can stand up and hide behind the tree. Good luck.
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Mike from NY asks:Bill - Loved the "Back in the Game" episode and learning about the many considerations that you examine in stand selection as well as stand access. You have taught me alot over the years. I hunt from a standard 9' ladder stand on a field edge but observed in the referenced episode your strap on stand on the Ash tree to be much higher with dry leaves aiding in concealment. I have had success with the ladder stand but it seems on many instances, the deer can pick me up with minimal effort. Have you or any member of your pro staff used ladder stands with much success? Also, how high do you recommend that a hunter climb if using a climber or strap on stand?Winke Responds:Mike, Thanks for your support. I like to get at least 18 feet up. Generally, I am around 20 feet. You may not need to be that high, but 9 feet is definitely too low. The only way to make that work consistently is to have a lot of branches at stand height and then place the ladder on the back of the tree. Muddy makes a ladder that will go from about 14 feet up to 20 feet with added sections. You might want to check that out. Good luck.
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Chanse from MO asks:I really enjoy watching your shows, they help me quite abit in my hunting strategies. I have two questions for ya. The 1st 1 is which is the best place to be..cut corn or cut beans? The 2nd is how high should a tree stand to still be able to harvest a bruiser buck?Winke Responds:Chanse, Thanks for your support. I appreciate it. I would say in general, deer tend to favor cut corn over cut beans. There are always exceptions, but that would be the better odds. I like to hunt about 18 to 22 feet up. I think that is high enough to keep you above the sight line of most deer and also low enough to permit a good shot angle to the vitals on deer that are within 15 yards of the stand. The tree itself will tell you how high to go - look for some good cover and park yourself near branches that can break up your outline. Good luck.
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Joe from NJ asks:We, our family, hunt our farms in Adams County Illinois. On one of the farms there is a very large "community scrape": presently we have a stand about 75 yards away---should or could we place a stand within shooting (bow) distance of the scrape. The scrape is between two fields and approx. 35 yds. from the creek. Thank you in advance.Winke Responds:Joe, I would set up near the creek, within range of the scrape and hunt it when the wind is blowing from the scrape toward the creek. You then cover two movement patterns - any bucks visiting the scrape and any bucks cruising along the creek bank. Both are likely solid patterns early in the rut. Scraping activity will die down once the rut really arrives, but the cruising pattern along the creek will stay active. Plus you can likely use the creek to access the stand, making it easier to stay undetected in your approach. Sounds like a good setup. Good luck.
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chuck from PA asks:We own a farm in Illinios. I was out there hunting this past week out of a ladder stand that we hung around the last week of october. The stand is in a really big oak tree with alot of scrub brush and smaller trees around the base of the tree that pretty much totally hides the ladder and it sits on the edge of a food plot. About 10 deer start working into the field and start eating. One of the does is about 25 yrds looks up in the tree, bolts and clears the field. I was tucked up against th tree w my face hid and wasnt moving at all. I should mention I never hunt out of ladder stands but it is a must at this spot because of the tree and I am really happy with the way it blends in, you can barely see it it is also 22 ft high. My only thought is the stand is all black and possibly that really stands out to them with them not seeing color?? What are your thoughts? Thanks and Merry Christmas!Winke Responds:Chuck, Deer hate anything new so she probably saw something that was a bit out of place and reacted. The PA deer you hunt back home are even more spooky this way than the dumber ones we hunt here in the central states where the hunting pressure is less intense. But even our deer here don't like new stuff. I would not worry about it. She will come back at night, investigate and eventually accept the stand as safe and then not give it much more thought. However, I would avoid hunting it for a while, because if she does come in to investigate it again and catches you in the tree you will have no option but to kill her because she will become your worst nightmare every evening thereafter. Again, I would give it some time for the deer to get used to the ladder then I think you will be fine. Good luck.
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Jeremy from ME asks:I'd love to know how high you guys place your treestands. I'm sure it depends on the tree but in some shows it looks like you're 30 feet off the ground or more - is this camera effect or are you getting as high as you can? Thanks.Winke Responds:Jeremy, Must be camera effect as we only go about 20 to 22 feet most times. That produces a decent angle to the vitals but still keeps you above them enough that you can remain undetected if you have some branches around and don't move. Good luck.
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Chad from IL asks:Bill, We really enjoy the hunts on the show from week to week and i've wanted to ask you how high do you place your stands that you hunt out of on your farm? And why that height? thanks so much chadWinke Responds:Chad, Thanks for the support. I set them at about 20 to 24 feet (sometimes a bit lower, but almost never higher). I am afraid of heights so I don't like the sky scraper stands. Also, as you go higher your shot angle to the vitals gets worse. Look for good cover in the tree, I usually end up setting up in the first or second big fork I come across in the selected tree and then place the stand on the back of the tree (away from where I expect the deer to approach). I shy away from trees without forks, but in areas where you have no choice you have to go a bit higher and then use the tree. I stand most of the time and hide behind the tree until the moment of truth. It works very well. With the camera in the tree, this is no longer always possible so I have had to make some compromises, but that is still my goal everytime I set up. Good luck.
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Eric from NC asks:Bill, congrats on your buck! 100 acres here in NC. I primarily gun hunt. My house is in the middle of my property on about 5 acres in the shape of a rectangle. I had three tower stands over corn which were successful at spotting deer and shooting them, but I need to work on the placement of them. I was considering doing one of two things this coming year: (1) Either modifying bedding areas by creating funnels and small attraction plots or, (2) Creating about four staging areas that are b/t bedding and food plots (bedding areas and feeding areas not hunted) with a tower stand at each spot that can be accessed at the corner of each of the points along my yard where my house is and each screened. The first option would give me more hunting stands and would put me in areas closer to bedding areas. I did this some this year, but felt like if I overhunted that area I blew the spot. The second option could allow me literally to walk out my back door and get in any of the fWinke Responds:Eric, I would go with option 2 the first year and then re-evaluate. I like the idea of walking out the house and into a good stand. That reduces activity and puts you in the field quickly and easily. Try that and then if you feel you need to hunt deeper, you can always make the changes next year. I love small food plot staging areas by the way, they work both evening and morning. Good luck.
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skyler from IN asks:i found a grassfield right next to a cut cornfield i sit my stand about 20 25 yards in the woods does and there is trails every 10 to 15 yards does that sound goodWinke Responds:Skyler, Any time you can get near an active food source you have a good evening. Go to some trouble to figure out which wind is best because if they smell you approaching the stand, you are not likely to see them. It is best if it blows straight out into the field. They may smell you once they get past you, but that is about your best hope. The other strategy is to hunt on a cross wind and move the stand to overlook the trail that is the most downwind. It is what makes hunting feeding areas so challenging. Good luck.
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Todd from OH asks:Ohio's gun season starts Nov. 29. On opening day were going to public ground. My question is would you hunt a pinch point between two good sized woods or a wood line along a strip of standing corn with a creek running along the back of the corn and woods.Winke Responds:Todd, I hope the hunt was a success. I apologize for not getting you an answer quicker. I received a bunch of these questions this year. I would hunt the pinpoint between two big blocks hoping to take advantage of both natural movement and forced movement (deer getting bumped by other hunters) that is likely to occur in this type of location.
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eric from NC asks:Bill: When do you start hunting over food plots (rut or post rut)? Also, how do all of the hunters on your show find that particular tree that manages to have a buck walk just 15 yds or so from it? I understand funnels and how they work but in some of the videos it seems the hunters are in the middle of the woods with no topography and yet a deer walks right in front of them.Winke Responds:Eric, I focus entirely on food starting about now (November 27). You are not seeing all the bucks that walk by out of camera view, so it appears that these stands are all more effective than they really are. The funnels in the big timber are still there, but they are more subtle, usually related to variations in the lay of the land. However, if you watch the deer travel through your hunting area enough you will eventually see patterns start to develop that aren't obvious from the study of terrain and cover. That is how really great stands are discovered, over time. My best stands evolved over five to six years as I tweaked them in to cover the most consistent deer movement I saw as well as the best entry and exit routes to those stands. Keep watching and learning. Good luck.
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bryan from MO asks:when big bucks seem to be locked down what is the best stratagy for stand placement?Winke Responds:Bryan, There is no good strategy at that time. About all you can do is wait it out or at the very best you might see a buck holed up with a doe and sneak up on him. Generally, their guard is down and you can sometimes use a creek or ditch and slip in close and then grunt them into the open or just wait for a buck to come along and pull them out. Good luck.
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Jimmy from AL asks:Hello Bill, Have a couple questions for you. when you are hunting in the evenings and you are ready to get out of your stand, what do you do if there are deer close? Do you wait for them to leave or do something to clear them out before you climb down? Also, when you are hunting, a) how late in the mornings do you hunt before you quit hunting if you cannot sit all day? b) How early do you start hunting in the evenings again if you aren't able to go all day? I know it varies between the rut and summer patterns, and I don't want to be sitting in a tree when the deer are done moving. So I need a general guide as to when sitting in a tree is less likely to be productive. Sorry for the long winded question. Maybe the answers will be able to be short and to the point. Thank you for your wise knowledge, oh great deer guru!Winke Responds:Jimmy, I try set up in places where I can sneak out when possible. Some of the stands I hunt allow me to slip down the tree and behind brush or into a ditch and be gone. As long as you go slow and quietly, you can get away with this after dark. If this is not possible, you will need to arrange for someone to drive up to the field to spook the deer off so you can get out. I also like spots where the deer go past me and are gone out into the field farther when it is time to climb down. I usually stay on morning stands until at least 11:00 during the rut. I don't hunt mornings any other time of the season when hunting at home because I have work to do, but on the road, I would generally just hang in there until things slow down and all movement stops. Some times of the year that is pretty early, but durng the rut, stick it out. I try to get to the evening stands during the rut at 1:00 to 1:30. It makes sense to stay on stand all day if the stand is located in a generic travel route. If it is a morning only stand, you have to move for a good afternoon hunt. I would only hunt all day during the best four or five days of the year (when it is also cool) or you will soon burn out and start to dislike the experience. Better to move to a different stand at midday so you can stretch your legs and get a break. I hope that helps. Good luck.
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Zach from IA asks:Bill, A majority of the areas I hunt are populated with trees offering little in terms of cover (straight trunks with few branches). I typically hunt 12-16 ft in the air but lately I’ve struggled with deer sighting me before they enter my shooting range. Many times I'm already positioned (not moving) before they bust me (and I'm hunting with favorable winds). At what heights do you typically hang your stands and could my stand height be contributing to my inability to remain unnoticed? Also, do I need to look for trees providing more cover even if this requires moving slightly out of the areas I typically see deer movement? Best Regards, Zach AllenWinke Responds:Zach, I just answered this question for Mike from GA. I think you are too low unless you are in trees with lots of brackground and forground cover. You may be able to cut some branches off other trees in late September (before the leaves turn) and attach the branches where you need them on your favorite tree to create a kind of nest to hide in. If you wait until the leaves turn, they will fall off quickly after you hang them. Green leaves will stay on the branches well into the winter, and possibly even into the next year. Your only other option is to find trees with cover, but I would opt for cutting the branches myself. Good luck.
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mike from GA asks:how high do you put your average treestand set up.Winke Responds:Mike, I go about 20 to 22 feet most of the time. I think that is a good compromise between staying out of sight and also getting a good shot angle to the vitals. I like trees that have branches at that height because it breaks up my outline. Selecting the perfect tree is kind of an art that you get better at the longer you do it. Like anything else, you learn something every time you set up a stand that makes it easier to pick and set up the best spots the next time. Good luck.
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Jacob from MO asks:Winke, How do you guys usually set up your stands to film out of? In the past ive just used a 20 foot climbing stick hung one stand normal then climb up in the seat and hang another stand above and to one side of the bottom stand, but this gets a little dangerous is there a easier way to do it and make them fit right? thanksWinke Responds:Jacob, I like the camera angle of having the camera stand at the same height as the hunting stand. I don't like to see the interviews where the hunter is way below. We also change roles in the stand sometimes where I film the cameraman as he shoots a buck. To do that, the stands need to be side-by-side and the camera needs to be right between them. Sometimes you have to film around the hunter or between the hunter and the tree, but we generally get it worked out so that the footage is fine. That is not always going to be easy, but it is the way we generally set up.
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Josh from IN asks:What time do you recommend being in my stand by for a morning hunt?Winke Responds:Josh, Personally, I like to get in and get set up so that I am ready to go just a few minutes before legal shooting time. I rarely see a situation where I want to be there earlier. I like being able to see the ground when I walk in so that I can go fast and quiet. I think that is better than going early and slow or using a flashlight. Good luck.
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Mike from IA asks:I had a deer come in after shooting hours about 20yds away and could not get it to leave waited over 45min and it would not leave (unsure if it was a buck or doe) finally just got down and ended up scaring it off. Will this hurt that stand location now?Winke Responds:Mike, It will hurt the stand if you are trying to shoot that specific deer, but likely won't hurt it too badly overall. There are other aspects of the hunt that have a more lasting impact, such as your scent trail to and from the stand. When deer encounter that they are more likely to be cautious in that area in the future. It all adds up. Try to keep your impact at zero and anything above that will affect your odds to some extent. Good luck.
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Dalton from KS asks:I just got back from hunting and i saw 10 deer. There was about 30 minutes of light left when i heard deer coming from behind me. Two yearling does walked by at 20 yards the paused and looked behind them and them bolted. i heard a deer coming and there came a big 8 point grunting all the way. He stood at 20 yards and he looked right at me. (i am hunting on the ground) he couldn't make me out and started to come towards me. This whole time he was behind heavy brush. He gets to 10 yards and stares at me for 2 minutes then takes off but he doesn't blow at all. Will i be able to hunt this deer again and how long should i wait before i hunt this property again? thanksWinke Responds:Dalton, I would hunt him in the same basic area, but from a different stand. He will likely remember to look up there in the future. Good luck.
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Ken from MI asks:When setting up a new stand position, I cut a few areas of branches, and small skinny trees for shooting toward nearby deer trails. should I avoid this area for awhile to let it "cool down"?Winke Responds:Ken, I don't think you have to wait more than a few days before the deer have accepted the changes. Good luck.
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corey from WI asks:do you move your treestand much this time of the year if your not pleased with your stand location and i mean moving it 50 -75 yards. (cut limbs and shooting lanes )or just stay where your at and hope for the best.oh and its a 100 yards from a bedding area.Winke Responds:Corey, I don't move stands too often during the season - you can end up chasing your tail around. I may explore a new area and place some stands, but I rarely make a small move during the season. However, if you know you are in the wrong the place (not just wonder) then it makes sense to move. Otherwise, watch and learn. Great stands are the product of years of experience and observation - not days. Good luck.
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Mike from ON asks:How many acres per tree stand would you say you hunt? I'm just curious if you had a buck who's core area was 100 acres how many tree stands would you have in that area hunting that particular buck?Winke Responds:Mike, I would probably have six or eight stands in that area, but I would only hunt them when the conditions are right. It is not so much how many stands you have as how often and how you hunt each one. You have to keep the deer from knowing that you are hunting him. That is a tall order.
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PATRICK from VA asks:FIRST, THANK YOU FOR THE BEST SITE CONTAINING USEFUL HUNTING INFORMATION I HAVE BEEN ABLE TO FIND. I HUNT 3 DIFFIRENT 200+ ACRE FARMS. THE DEER SEE HEAVY PRESSURE ON 2 OF THEM, NOT TO MENTION ALL AROUND THEM. THE BIG BUCKS SEEM TO "KEEP THEIR FRIENDS CLOSE AND ENIMIES CLOSER". MEANING I RECENTLY LEARNED THAT TO GET ON MY BUCKS AT THE LOW PRESSURE FARM I HAD TO COMPLETY CIRCLE THE PROPERTY AND COME IN THE BACK DOOR, BECAUSE THEY ARE BEDDING 30 YARDS OFF HIGHWAYS, 30 YARDS BEHIND MY STANDS, AND 30 YARDS OFF ANY ENTRANCE TO PROPETY. THEY HAVE COMPLETE VISUAL. THEY KNOW WHEN YOU ARE THERE. HOW DO I GET TO MY STANDS ON THE PROPERTIES THAT DO NOT HAVE A BACK DOOR?Winke Responds:Patrick, Diversions is the only way that I have found. If you can take advantage of common human activity that deer find acceptable (a tractor moving a round bale for example) you can sneak into your stands. Some spots are impossible to hunt without alerting deer. You have to figure out which ones they are and avoid them no matter how good the sign looks. Good luck.
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Mike from ON asks:How long do you let your stands rest on average between hunts? I realize that this will vary depending on how much or how little you feel like you spooked deer when you were in there aswell as a variety of other factors, but I'm just curious about an average especially if you really want to be after a certain deer at that stand. ThanksWinke Responds:Mike, As you said, it varies for every stand. The really good ones that have great access I hunt three days per week or so if the wind holds. The ones that don't set up as well I only hunt about two days per week. Good luck.
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Jim from AR asks:I am 60 yrs of age and in good physical health. I have started bow hunting and have been watching the programs on television about bow hunting for whitetail deer. My question is I would like to see a program on how the pros pick and set up their tree stands. How high do you get in the tree and what are you looking for when you set up. ThanksWinke Responds:Jim, That is something we probably need to cover better. The subject is more than I can take on here as there are many variables to consider. In general, I try to be 18 to 22 feet up, but some people go higher. I like that shot angle. I look for branches to break my outline whenever possible and tend to place my stands in and around the larger branches of the trees I set up in. The branches break up my outline and make the experience more enjoyable as you can lean on the branches while waiting, etc. We'll cover this subject in more detail in a future episode. Good luck.
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Jerod from TX asks:Bill or George, anything but Sue(sorry, had a Johnny Cash flash back), how effective is hunting the head/top of a draw in bigwoods? I am on a 350+ acre Nat'l Forest parcel and man it stinks catching up to those deer up top. No real food sources and the creek bottom all tracked up. Fairly hilly with good deep draws that dump into the main creek. I am near one right now and was looking to move the top of it, which kinda would put me closer to the central hub of things....curious if you had any success hunting the head/top of a draw where it starts out?? thanks, JBWinke Responds:Jerod, That is exactly where I would hunt. I love the tops of draws for several reasons: deer seem to funnel up around the draw following the contours, you can use the ditch to sneak to and from the stand, you can hunt it when the wind is blowing your scent back over the draw and theoretically over the heads of any deer in that direction. Good luck.
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Tyler from MI asks:I am 16 years old. Our family owns around 100 acres in Michigan and I just got another tree stand. In the tree stand I have now I only have seen deer in the morning. what should I look for when trying to find a location for a stand?Winke Responds:Tyler, As a basic rule of thumb, place your stands near feeding areas for the afternoon hunt and near bedding areas (thicker cover) for the morning hunts. Be sure to hunt very carefully - selecting an entry and exit route to each that will keep you away from all the deer. That is the biggest challenge. Good luck.
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Cody from OK asks:The terrian i see you hunting is similar to where we hunt. Does excessive tree treaming for shooting lanes and visibility seemed to affect the deers behaviour because it seems that the bucks i get pictures of seem to know that i have moved in on them.Winke Responds:Cody, The trimming is a factor, but just as importantl (probably more importantly) is the scent you leave behind when making the lanes. I would just give the area some time (stay out of it) and I think the deer behavior will return to normal there. Good luck.
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josh from IN asks:i have a great stand location with multiple pics of a fully mature 10pt. buck. if i wanted to take a doe with my bow could that potentially hurt my chances of being able to harvest the buck? As always thank you for your time and the site and shows are amazing...keep up the great work!Winke Responds:Josh, Just shooting the doe is not a problem, but if you have to make a trip in there with a truck or ATV to get her out that evening, you will probably put the deer in that area on alert that something is up. I would probably wait to shoot a doe in that immediate area until you have the location a fair chance to produce the buck. As much as I love shooting does, I think I would hold off in that situation.
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Sam from IA asks:Hi Bill, great videos you guys have every year, I've learned a lot from them. I have noticed that on a lot of the videos here guys carry their hang on stands and sticks in with them then put them up and hunt. That's something I've considered doing but am afraid it will make to much noise and may take to much time. Also, I don't see how they would be able to have clear shooting lanes by doing this. Are the trees already pre-selected or what? What are your thoughts on this and what type of stand/sticks do you use? Looking forward to more great videos this fall!Winke Responds:Sam, The trick is to pick the right tree. I have done this for 25 years. You may not be able to hunt the absolute best tree in every area because there may not be enough shooting lanes, but you can ususally find something that sets up well. Just do things slowly and you can do them quietly. It adds an extra about 45 minutes to the afternoon hunt, in my experience. However, the ability to hunt fresh stands and adjust to the movements and changing activity of the deer is worth the time and effort required. A good light stand and some lightweight sticks also make the job easier.
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Brett from OK asks:Dear bill, I have 100 acres in northeastern Oklahoma. The timber is tight and narrow surrounded by crp on both sides, restricting From multiple stand setups. I have two morning stands hung and I am wondering whether to hunt them closer to the rut or go ahead and hunt them on October 1. The only problem about doing that is I don't want to spook them early and not be able to get on the deer by the time the rut rolls around. What do you think is my best option? Also do you hunt early season or wait until things get cold? Thanks for all your help, this show has been a blessing.Winke Responds:Brett, I appreciate your support. I only hunt the early season for a couple of days in areas where I don't feel that I have any lasting impact. I definitely don't hunt bedding areas in the early season. I fact, I personally don't hunt bedding areas until about Oct. 25 at the earliest. I guess if you have a big buck patterned at his bedding area, that is a different story. However, in the absence of a bedding area pattern, I wouldn't hunt the bedding areas until the rut. Good luck.
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Joe from AL asks:Hi Bill; Looking forward to this seasons shows. Your team always does a great job. My question is...do you take your stands down at the end of each season or leave them in place over the winter and how early do you try to get a stand in place before you plan on hunting out of it.Winke Responds:Joe, It is a very good idea to take them down for two reasons. First, it is good to let the tree grow during the summer so you can put the stand back up again after the growth has slowed. You can look at the stand and make sure it is still safe. The second reason is a bit less obvious. If I take them down every year, I am more likely to put them back up in the tree I know they should be in. After a few years of hunting an area, I see the tendencies of the deer. Generally, that means that I need to tweak my stand position just slightly, but often I am too lazy to move them during the season and just hunt them anyway even though I know they aren't perfect. They are good, just not perfect. If I take them down after the season, I am more likely to put them back up in the perfect spot. I put stands up shortly before I hunt them, often in October, believe it or not. I wait until a rain and put them up during the rain or just before the rain. It works very well.
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Gary from OH asks:would you place a pile of acorns close to your stand location? There are no oak trees in the stand location. If your answer is yes, what time of year would you put them out?Winke Responds:Gary, I realize that baiting is legal in OH, so obviously this answer would be a lot different in a state where baiting isn't legal. I think a pile of acorns would be very attractive to the deer, unfortunately, gathering acorns is not nearly as easy as going to the farm co-op and buying a bag of shelled corn. If you have a ready supply of acorns, it is a good choice. If not, go with corn. I have hunted over bait some in Texas, but I am no expert on baiting strategies, however I would assume you need to start the bait about a week to ten days before you plan to hunt over it. That would give the deer plenty of time to find it. Good luck.
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Greg from MN asks:Hi Bill! I have a question for you! I recently purchased the PMI Cover system from Lone wolf treestands. Its a fake branch and leaf system to help give your background cover for treestands. maybe you're familiar with this. Anyways I put this up and Im still silhouetted by the small diameter tree.(bean pole) Its basically one of the few trees in the area and its in standing water making it difficult for any ground blind. Do you have any ideas on how I can make a small tree look a little more full so I can blend in and not stand out so much. I have neglected this area for the past few season due to being afraid of being detected, thus losing out on many of the big bucks that call Buffalo county, WI home. Thanks, GregWinke Responds:Greg, We do it all the time. Go out there in the next few weeks and carry with you a bunch of small pipe hangers for attaching pipe or conduit to walls, several small wood screws and a good electric screwdriver. Cut down a few branches from nearby oak trees and bring them over and use the pipe hangers to attach them to the tree you are using in all sorts of angles. You can cut out a few shooting lanes through the branches (where you might not want to cut them out of your PMI system branches). Because you cut the branches when the leaves were green, they will not fall off all fall. The deer will get used to the cover and when you show up to shoot, they will see the same blob of leaves and branches they are used to seeing - no big changes. Give it a try. It should do the job for you.
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Ben from VA asks:Mornin Bill. I have a question for you pertaining to a set that I recently hung in PA. I am set up about 30 yards below the very tip of a ridge point, facing due west. To my north is an edge of a very nasty thicket hillside (the north face of the ridge). To the south is a stand of Oaks. Taking your first book's tips into consideration, I hung this thing about 20 yards off of an intersection of four different deer trails. One of the trails follows the ridge out behind me, two come from the thicket to my north, and one from the south below the tip of the ridge. Would you hunt a setup like that in the morning, or evening? He is going to come from the thick hillside where he beds, to eat to the south of me, but I am concerned about entering via the ridge in the afternoon where Does bed. On the other hand, its probably a better morning stand, where I can sneak out the ridge without spooking and climb in it, hoping for him to slip past me to back to his bedding. Am I on the right track here,Winke Responds:Ben, You are on the right track. If you don't have a foolproof way to get into that stand for an afternoon hunt without the risk of alerting deer then you have to stay out of it at that time. It is that simple. Also, have you considered sneaking in from the valley below for the afternoon hunt, or will you be to visible? Finally, there may be better places farther around on the south facing slope where you can find a clean way in and out for an afternoon hunt. That would be my goal, find a different stand that you can sneak into for the afternoons even if it isn't right in the middle of action. Sometimes being right in the middle of the action is actually a liability because you spook too many deer if isn't set up just perfectly.
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Shea from ON asks:Hey i was just wondering if you ever use climbing stands and if so what kind would you recommend? I am thinking about getting one so i dont have to buy and hang so many hang-on ones. Good idea?? Or not??Winke Responds:Shea, I don't like them. I have used them when hunting other properties but I will never own one nor use one on my farm. There are three reasons I don't like them: 1. They are big and cumbersome and make noise when climbing. 2. They aren't as safe for me as when I'm using steps - I realize they have gotten better, but I have had too many close calls on climbers to feel good about them. 3. There are many trees they won't work in. What if the perfect tree to cover the funnel is a crooked one or a big oak with giant branches? You may be able to make them work in some of the areas you hunt, but I will just buy more hang-ons and be more than happy to do it.
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mohammad ali from MI asks:Hey, bill i want to buy a hang on tree stand but i want to ask you do they come with a ladder or do you have to put one because how do you get up the tree to your stand?Winke Responds:Mohammad, Most times you will have to purchase a ladder (climbing sticks) separately when you are putting up a hang-on tree stand. However, there are some stands that have ladders attached to them. They are called ladder stands and you can buy them with the ladder attached, then you just lean them up against the tree and attach the ladder using a brace and the platform using a cinch strap. Good luck.
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jordan from IN asks:Bill the indiana youth deer hunt is coming up soon and i was wondering where u think i should set up a stand. near bedding areas food sources or what. thanks.Winke Responds:Jordan, I think you need to get near the food. Look for green forage like clover, alfalfa or soybeans. That is a good choice for the start of the season. Just hunt those areas in the evenings. If you want to hunt mornings too, I would have a few stands back in the timber farther, but be sure that they are situated so you can sneak into them by staying out of sight, smell and hearing of deer. You must approach from the opposite direction the deer are approaching from (come in from opposite the food). If you don't have any spots that fit this description, I would skip morning hunts for now. Good luck buddy!
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Zach from NC asks:Hello Bill, Great show and great information. I am headed to illinois this fall for a hunt and I have several questions so I will try to make this quick. First, how do deer relate to a CRP field (Bedding, feeding or both) and when can I expect them to be using the CRP. Second, assuming the CRP is used for bedding would a good morning stand be located on the ridge top between the ridge end and the CRP field. Third the land we will hunt is completely wooded with a CRP field to the northwest and a corn field to the northeast. There is a main creek basically splitting the property running north/south with several ridges/draws branching off the main creek draw. Where woul be a good place to focus for other morning stands and afternoon stands. Lastly, as far as entry and exit is concerned. Would it be better to access stands via the main creek draw and sub-draws even though they are in the middle of the property, or should we walk the field edges to the north? Thx 4 the info!Winke Responds:Zach, They don't feed in CRP at that time of year unless there is volunteer clover growing. Probably not, in most cases. In my experience, they don't bed in CRP much either unless it is during the summer. If the CRP is the only show in town - the only cover in the area - they will use it more than they will if there is traditional cover (trees, brush) around. I have not seen bucks use CRP much for bedding in IL. In Kansas I have seen this, especially the taller switchgrass CRP, but in Iowa and IL, they just don't use the CRP as much for bedding preferring traditional cover. However, if they are using the CRP, you will see trails and beds when you scout it. Then look for travel routes into the CRP, ditchs, draws, fencelines, etc. that you can set up on to catch the bucks as they slip back into these areas shortly after daylight. I would forget about the CRP for starters and focus on the timber and the cornfield. Most of the activity will be in these areas. Morning stands would be closer to middle of the cover, while afternoon stands would be farther out on the ends of the draws, closer to the cornfield. I would access the morning stands by the main creek draw in the predawn and then exit by going toward the open ground (assuming the wind cooperates). In the afternoons, I would access from the open areas (fields and CRP) and exit heading back toward the center of the cover away from the fields. Not convenient to enter and exit this way, but it will keep you from alerting deer.
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Scott from WI asks:Bill- I'm fairly new to Bow hunting and Really enjoying it so far...along with your website. My buddy states you can't kill Big Bucks using ladder stands but rather have to use climbing sticks or screw in steps. One of our points we know the big bucks travel does not have straight enough trees for a hang-on stand. What are your feelings/experience using ladder stands for big bucks?? Thank You!Winke Responds:Scott, You can definitely kill them with ladder stands. I would get the stand up as early as possible so the deer have time to get used to the ladder. Soon they will ignore it as just another part of the woods. Good luck.
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Dalton from KS asks:Hey, I'm 13 and I'm the only person who hunts in my family except my grandparents who live in Iowa. I need some advice on where to hang some deer stands. I have permission to hunt around 300 acres of private land here in Kansas, but most of it is bedding area and crops. I have some woods but our area does not hold a lot of deer. I bow, rifle, and black powder hunt. I don't know if I should hang my tree stands in or on the verge of the bedding area because I don't want to scare the deer into a plot of about 80 acres of land that has become a deer sanctuary because the lady who owns it has banded it from hunting. By nine in the morning most of the deer are in this sanctuary. My neighbor is hunting a corner that holds the most woods and I don't want to disturb his hunting. I have only a week to rifle hunt so I need a place to be able to get close enough to kill them with a bow. Thanks, Dalton P.S. Midwest Whitetail is awesome! I've watched every show.Winke Responds:Dalton, Thanks for your support. I am not sure I have the big picture there, but I will try to piece it together. Sounds like you are hunting fairly open ground near a larger timbered sanctuary. You would definitely want to find any kind of transition cover or travel funnels between the crop fields and the sanctuary or bedding cover. That means looking for brushy sloughs, fence lines, any place that a buck might use to travel through the area while keeping out of sight. In other words, avoid the bedding areas and the feeding areas (as much as possible) and focus on the travel routes in between. That is the conservative route. You can get more aggressive and hunt closer to the bedding areas in the mornings as the rut comes on and closer to the feeding areas in the evenings in the late season.
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Dan from MN asks:Mr. Winke, Last week I got permission to hunt a piece of property for this fall. Yesterday I went out to the property and while doing some early scouting/ getting a feel for the land, I found a really nice set of antlers. (The set was just outside a bedding area) I was wondering what I should do next. Do I hang a stand in the area where I found the sheds or should I stay further back from the bedding area and continue to focus my hunting on transition areas between bedding and feeding? What are the odds that the buck that these antlers came from will be here in the fall? Thanks a lot!Winke Responds:Dan, The odds he will be there this fall are pretty good. It may just be his wintering ground (depending on which part of MN you are hunting some areas to the north have distinct wintering grounds) but if you are not in an area with migrating deer, he will likely be in that area. I would focus on that general area, but probably spend most of the time in the transition areas. Also, hunt the bedding area during the rut but be sure to come in from the opposite direction of the feeding area. Another good idea is to try to get him on a pattern using trail cameras so you have him tied to a specific area. This is especially important after the bucks shed velvet and start to take up there fall ranges - late September onward.
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JOSH from PA asks:HI BILL, I AM LOOKING INTO GETTING A NEW "PORTABLE TREESTAND" AND I CANNOT DECIDE WHETHER TO GO WITH A MUDDY OUTDOORS SETUP OR A CLIMBING STAND. DO THE MUDDY STANDS SET UP QUICKLY, AND ARE THEY EASY TO BACKPACK TO SPOTS. ALSO WILL I NOTICE A BIG DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE ALUMINUM AND STEEL. I HAVE NEVER REALLY LIKED THE HANG-ON STANDS BECAUSE I HAD TROUBLE HANGING IN THE TREE AND SETTING THE STAND UP, BUT THESE SEEM TO BE BETTER THAN THE ONES THAT I HAD IN THE PAST. WHY DO YOU USE THESE INSTEAD OF CLIMBERS? I HAVE READ IN YOUR ARTICLES WHERE YOU ARE NOT A BIG FAN OF CLIMBING STANDS. I LOVE THIS "ASK WINKE" FEATURE, IT IS LIKE HAVING A PROFESSIONAL HUNTING ADVISOR. THANKS, JOSHWinke Responds:Josh, I don't like climbers because they limit my choices of trees I can hunt from. When I find the right spot, there is no guarantee there will be a tree nearby that I can scale with a climber. Also, I always feel like I am making too much noise climbing up and down with a climber stand. Often, I am sneaking in, climbing the back of the tree on tree steps or sticks and setting up with deer nearby. It can be done with a hang-on stand. I have literally snuck out of my stands with deer bedded just 25 yards away on windy days. I could never do that with a climber. Finally, if you use the climbing/lineman's belt with the Muddy Harness you can have both hands free to hang the stand. There is no other safe way to hang a fixed-position (hang-on) stand. The small aluminum stand from Muddy is very easy to carry - it is light and small.
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coby from IN asks:Bill, I think most of us hunters have one or two stands that are killer set ups, often based on the way we access the stands, wind direction, funnels, etc. I would love to see a show where your bowhunters showed off their best stand set ups, especially where the hunters took a good spot and made it outstanding by manipulating the habitat with chain saw work, planting, access cover, etc. Keep up the good work. CobyWinke Responds:Coby, I think that is a great idea. We will definitely do that this fall. Thanks for the suggestion. Thanks for your support.
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Luke from MN asks:Hey Bill..I was out looking for sheds today and new stand locations (sadly I didnt find any sheds). But i did find a ditch crossing that the deer are using a lot..great entry and exit route (ditch) but Im having trouble finding a tree that will work. There are two possible locations, a tree that has little to no cover and is about 18 yards from the crossing and a tree that is about 7 yards from the crossing with quite a bit of cover. What would you do in a situation like this? and is it possible to be too close to a well used trail? Great show!Winke Responds:Luke, Thanks for your support. I would be in the bigger tree even though it is close. My strategy would be to wait until the deer is past my location and then shoot it on the sharp quartering away angle. Let it get out about 15 yards so you have a good angle to the liver, lungs and heart. Don't be tempted to shoot when it is straight below as that will too often produce a single-lung hit. A liver/lung is much, much more fatal than a single-lung hit. The other thing you can sometimes do is to put an obstacle (brush) on the trail that the deer have to detour around shortly beore or after crossing the ditch that puts that at a better shot angle.
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Ron H. Jr from WI asks:Hey Bill, quick question. One of the properties I hunt is located mostly on a hardwood ridge(where i want to thin out some brush and weeds and plant a plot. Size is limited to about 1/4 to 1/2 acre). But with the lack of sunlight that makes it to the ground, I wasn't sure what would be the best choice. We usually have a lot of acorns depending on the year, and the neighbors usually plant a corn or bean field about 150-200 yards away. We have 2 or three stands with heavy trails coming and going from that direction. Any ideas what might work best in this situation? Thanks a lot Bill.Winke Responds:Ron, If you can get 1/2 acre, you can do clover. If you are smaller than that it will be tough. Try to make the plot round or if oval shaped, ideally make the long axis of the oval go east and west along the line of the sun so the maximum amount of light makes it to the ground for max amount of time each day. You might also consider felling the edge trees back into the timber without cleaning out the brush. We did this on one of my narrow plots (an east/west plot) and it actually let in enough light to grow soybeans. It is only about 20 yards wide!
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Chris from OK asks:Hi Bill! I notice you hunt right on the food source alot of the time. Why? It would seem to be easier to come and go and keep a low profile being between bed and food.Your thoughts? Thanks, ChrisWinke Responds:Chris, During the late season, the deer bed very close to the food. Sometimes they even bed right on the edge of the food when it is really cold. Generally, I will hunt right on the field unless I am sure of a funnel near the field that the deer have to pass. If I didn't think they were bedding just inside the cover, I would hunt at a point that would allow me to stay undetected by deer in the field.
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ian in wisconsin from AL asks:do u pull treestands and if so when is it better to leave them up year round? im asking this because late season alot of people shed hunt public land near wher i hunt and i am afraid i will have stand stolen what do u do oh happy new year and good luck filling that buck tagWinke Responds:Ian, I would definitely pull the stands. It is a good idea because the trees grow a little each year and having the stands attached to a tree for long periods of time can eventually cause them to break as the tree grows. Those who use screw in steps should take them out each winter and replace them in a new spot every year too to make sure they are intstalled into solid wood - sometimes the tree around the stand can die and the step nearly falls out. Happy New Year to you and thanks for your support.
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Michael from SC asks:Bill, I really love the shows, Thank you.Just got one question, I'm thinking about changing from a climbing stand to ladder stands or placing steps on the tree, if I use steps, is better to remove them or leave them in the tree from year to year?Winke Responds:Michael, I test all my steps every year. In thick barked trees, I generally remove them and screw them in a different spot nearby the first time I climb the stand. That keeps them from growing in and also gets them a fresh purchase each year into the quick of the tree. Some trees will die around the step and the step can easily pull out. Had one just last night that did that. A basswood tree split right along the grain where the step was located, probably because of the cold weather. It was basically loose in there! I moved the step about two inches and I was back in business.
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Frank from PA asks:hello bill i have a question for you. i am hunting this one farm that had corn and soy on top of this hill and another field at the bottom of this hill. inbetween these fields is a thicket of woods the deer i see from my stand on top of the hill are bedded on that thicket. i would like to stick a stand in there but get busted every time i take a step into that woods. how do i get in there unnoticed?Winke Responds:Frank, Maybe you don't go in there. I would rather hunt the deer unnoticed on the fringes of their high activity areas than risk spooking them from the center of the action. I always try to say one step away from the highest activity areas because you educate too many deer when you hunt those areas. I look for places where I have the advantage and they don't. I avoid the places where they have the advantage and I don't. Sounds simple enough, but if you apply it you will surprised how much more interesting and strategic your hunting becomes. Your only real chance may be to hunt those areas in the morning, but sparingly so as not to burn it out.
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eric from NC asks:I enjoyed the show today and liked the segment about the reason for the season...its good to see that some people have still not forgotten that. I have been bowhunting 2years and I have the itch to try some video as well...if I hunt private property is it best to get some hang on stands and sticks and so some permenant setups? or better to get a climber and move around? Here in NC you can corn pile and I done that this year and harvested a doe w/ gun but I think I would be better off doing a food plot and really trying to pattern the deer and getting in between bedding and food if i want a bow kill...what do you think? I just think it would be better instead of trying to get the deer to come to meWinke Responds:Eric, I like hang-on stands because they are so quiet to use once they are in place. I have had some bad experiences with climbers (granted it was many years ago) so I don't like them. However, that is really a personal choice assuming your trees are straight and limbless enough to work for a climber. I would think the food plot is more natural more likely to make a buck feel at ease. The corn pile is unnatural, probably has human scent and activity associated with it and is less likely to be visited during the day by a mature buck, so I agree with your strategy. Good luck.
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Nate from MN asks:Hi Bill, just a quick question. Which muddy treestand would you prefer if you were going to take the stand in and out of the woods with you each hunt. The Hunter or Hunter Pro. Also, I have 4 muddy sticks, do both of the mentioned stands feature the option of attaching the sticks to the stand for carrying. Thanks, and aside from hunting, your website and articles are getting in the way of my studying, or maybe its the other way around. haha. I go the University of WI River Falls.Winke Responds:Nate, Both stands will support the sticks. I would definitely use the aluminum stand if you are planning to hike in. They are light and easy to carry. Those are the Hunter and Hunter Pro. Personally, I like the Hunter because I like the bigger stands and they are not much heavier. Good luck with your studies, but I do appreciate your support. Merry Christmas.
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Brandon from OH asks:hey Bill I enjoy your shows and watch them every week.My question is i always see deer at my best stand when i hunt it and i have killed two nice 8 pointers from it this year and it seems when i do kill a deer there it takes 2-3 weeks for me to see deer again so i am wondering can the deer be smelling the blood from the kill or what?Winke Responds:Brandon, They can definitely smell the blood, but in my experience they don't react to it an extremely negative way. I have shot many does and had multiple bucks come up to them later and never show any concern about the fact that they are dead. Death and blood are very real in the natural world. However, your presence hunting there and coming back with the ATV or vehicle to get the deer out is not a natural part of their world and that is what they are reacting too. It is the same thing everyone faces when managing the amount of impact they apply to their favorite stands: knowing when to hunt them and when to rest them. The answer to that depends on how cleanly you can get in and out and how well you can hunt the stand without being detected while you are there. If the entry and exit are bulletproof (no way for deer to detect you coming and going) and the stand sets up well for the winds you hunt it on, you should be able to hunt it much more often than one that is more sensitive. If you have only a small amount of hunting property, I would completely avoid any stand that doesn't have great access and undetected hunting - no matter how good the spot is. Otherwise, those stands are one-hit wonders and by hunting them you educate too many deer in your entire hunting area. Balancing your hunting pressure (where, when, etc.) is the key skill to successful deer hunting.
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Trevor from MO asks:Hello Bill, thanks for keeping things going with the show I imagine its difficult to give up hunting time to put together footage etc. but at this point I am figuring that if I can't seem to hit the deer at decent ranges I will have to settle for watching others do it, right? Anyways, two quick questions: My treestand is partway up a ridge and one side makes for some steep shooting angles. What compensations do you make for given heights for about 30 yd shots (ex. 30ft up, due to slope, shooting at deer at 30yds). I apologize if this has already been addressed repeatedly. Second question, I will be moving to eastern Iowa for the last two years of school,around the quad cities (Bettendorf/Davenport area), and am curious if you know any details or could direct me towards reliable information about getting started for hunting up there. Thanks and hope this isn't monopolizing valuable hunting time, but it is certainly appreciated. Thanks, TrevorWinke Responds:Trevor, The very best way to handle those sharp angled shots is with an angle compensated rangefinder such as the Archer's Choice from our sponsor Nikon. That way you can take the readings right to the animal and not have to do any conversion. The second best way is to use a regular rangefinder and take readings to tree trunks that originate from the area you expect to shoot, but as far up the trunk as you can take them (ideally level with your position). That way you get the true horizontal distance (the distance over which gravity takes affect). Anything else you try is just guesswork. Good luck. (bottom line: with sharp angled shots, the tendency is to shoot too high). I don't know much about that area, but being close to a city, the access is going to be tough. You will need to spend a lot of time knocking on doors and you may need to get at least 30 minutes away before you find much. Also, you are likely to make a lot of friends there and many will be from Iowa and some of them will be from farms - I think you can see where this is going. Ask your friends around school for help.
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Jim Machado from MA asks:Hey Winke, Great site just found it. I'm headed out to IL. for the second gun season. I own 102ac and hunted 6 days of bow and 3 days of first gun.The ground has timber and CRP a 60/40 split. We have soybeans and clover for plots. Really didn't see much for bucks on our first trip. To enter the ground we have to walk around the edges of the CRP to get to the west and south side of the ground. Which I think push many deer out. This is the third year we have owned this ground, so far each year is the same. First few days we see deer then it gets less and less. For the second gun season where would you say I should set up near food or timber. We have about 18 stands set up. THANKSWinke Responds:Jim, With properties that size you just have to be so very careful about every step you take. You may consider planting something for a screen. For example, cedar trees (you can move them in) or even grain (tall) sorghum as an annual. Getting in and out clean is the whole key to making small properties work for more than a few hunts. You may have to set up close to the edges at first and then hunt the better stands as the hunt advances. On your upcoming hunt, I would definitely hunt near timber in the AM and near food in the PM. Good luck.
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Tim from PA asks:Bill, I have been reading many of the FAQ on your site. One thing I would like to see is some description of the terrain features that are regularly discussed. For instance, people commonly use the name ditch, draw...aren't these the same thing? What do you mean by the "head" of the draw? What do you mean by a bluff? I know that I may sound stupid here, but I just want to be on the same page as you in my mind when reading or hearing about these "common" terrain features. One more question. I was hunting a new spot for the first time back on the evening of 11/6, went in around 1pm. I was going to hunt the edge of a corn field. I literally took 3 steps into the woods from the field and busted two bucks(one very nice) and about 3 does out of some nearby brush. Would you back out in that situation or hunt it? That field edge was loaded with sign. I wasn't expecting them to be bedding that close to the food source. Do you think they would abandon that area after that expWinke Responds:Tim, I think I will have to cover that in one of the shows because it is really too much to try to talk through here. It is easier just to show someone than to try to tell them. But I will hit the high points here. A ditch to me is an erosion object, cut down into the ground. Not a draw or ravine, but narrower and deeper and steeper, like an erosion ditch. Most draws have some kind of ditch at the bottom. The deep and steep ditches will deter deer from crossing producing a funnel at the gradual crossing areas. Head of the draw is the top, the uppermost portion, basically where it starts, often very near the top of the ridge. Deer generally will funnel around the head of draws, following the contour lines rather than crossing the draws. Not always, but it is a useful pattern to know. Bluff is a very steep, almost impassible section, like a drop-off. To answer your final question, I would hunt it. They will likely be back at some point. Good luck.
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Andy from MO asks:I have a treestand that has been my best stand location for 8 years now on my own property. This fall someone has put up a stand 20 yards from my property line and 70 yards from my stand. As far as I know they are legal to be there. Problem is that my timber is all they could be hunting where they placed it. My question to you is>>>would you capitalize on someones primary spot like this? If you were to see them sitting there, would you go ahead and sit in your stand to persuade them to "hit the road", or what would you do to gain back your solitude? Thanks I know it's not an easy question.Winke Responds:Andy, It is a tough question. I would talk to the neighboring landowner to find out what is going on. If you don't know the landowner well, that is probably where the problem starts. If the neighbor is a friend, you can probably find some way to work it out. If not, they have the legal right to be there. I would probably just hunt my stand anyway. They will likely get discouraged eventually if you are always sitting there. I hate these kinds of deals. They take much of the fun out of deer hunting. The other guy may be a very casual hunter and rarely shows up. You might even talk with him sometime and tell him you have been hunting right there for 7 years. If he is a decent guy, he may just pull out. Good luck.
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Dakota from MI asks:hey i have a lot of deer runways going into a grass field and a swamp i just want to know the best spot to set up a pop up blindWinke Responds:Dakota, I would pick the spot that lets you cover as many of these trails as possible or if they are spaced out widely pick the one that is most downwind (based on your prevailing winds for that area) so you can get in and out easly and hunt it without spooking deer. Make sure to brush it in or it will take the deer longer to accept it. Good luck.
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Keith Kostuch from WI asks:How high do you set your stands and how high do you recommend? I don't have access to crop fields so I hunt mature oaks and travel routes. Thanks, KeithWinke Responds:Keith, I set up about 20 to 22 feet most of the time. It seems to work pretty well. I like trees with several branches at that height that break up my outline. I try to shy away from trees without branches, but if I have to hunt them, I generally go a bit higher, like 25 feet, or so. This gives me a good angle to the vitals but keeps me high enough that the deer don't see me readily.
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philip from ON asks:where is the best place to hang a tree stand by a creek or on a hay fieldWinke Responds:Philip, I tend to hunt back near cover in the mornings and out near food in the afternoons. It is a very simple pattern, but it holds up pretty well. That might be a good basic starting point for you. Good luck.
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LANCE from TX asks:Thank you very much for answering my previous question. I have one more question and I will let you get back to hunting and writing. I own a couple of treestands that I purchased from a large outdoor retailer. Both of these stands came with the black web-style safety harness and the tree belt doubles as a linemans belt by going through the chest strap and around the tree. Are these types of safety harnesses safe for putting up hang-on stands and hunting and how long should I use these harnesses before I trash it? They seem very simple and I just want to make sure that they are safe. Are these harnesses TMA approved and as safe as if you were to buy one of the more expensive safety harnesses?Winke Responds:Lance, Without seeing the specific model of harness I wouldn't be able to comment much, but the fact that they are included with the tree stands means they are likely TMA approved. That means they are probably safe for long-term use. I would think the more expensive harnesses are simply easier to use or maybe more comfortable. If the freebie is comfortable, I wouldn't be afraid to use it.
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Brent from IA asks:I enjoy the show and your low-key style. Most of my current stands are in timber locations with very few stands at field/food locations. With what looks to be an extremely late harvest here in IA, should a person consider setting up more stands on field edges and less in timber funnels/travel routes at this late stage prior to the seek (pre-rut) stage kicking in ??Winke Responds:Brent, The only adjustments I would make would be to hunt along the edge of standing corn more. Bucks like to cruise these edges during the rut and the standing corn feels just like any other kind of thick cover to them so they will hit such places later in the morning than they would if the corn was picked. So just a slight adjustment toward the standing corn is in order this year. Good luck.
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Clint from AR asks:Bill, I asked you earlier if a couple of bucks watched me climb down the tree, would they ever return. Turns out they did return but only at night. I have another question, it was cold this past weekend. Around 29 degrees. Do you have any advice on how to keep your fixed position stand from "squeaking" in cold weather. The stand is a few years old and is hung with a chain. I ordered the new muddy hunter pro and have high expectations. Keep up the great work and good luck with the season.Winke Responds:Clint, The Muddy stands are quiet. However, take a look at the stand to determine exactly where the squeak is coming from. I have seen them squeak many times when it was just rubbing against the tree. Simply removing the stand from the tree and putting it back on in a different spot close by may be all you need to do to get rid of the squeak. Give it a try.
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Rodney from MI asks:Spent my Saturday in the trees. I've had some success getting on the deer. During my evening hunt 2 doe moved within 15 yards of me off my 3 O'clock position. Being right handed and in a climber this is not my best side. To make matters worse there was little to no cover when viewed from their position. I was able to slowly stand to maneuver into shot position. As soon as I raised my bow to draw... Busted! I have 25 ft. of cord to lift my bow and there was only a few feet of slack. This put me just high enough to gain some coverage from the surrounding old growth hardwoods about 22ft. So my question/s. What is a good height? How long should I wait to return to to this spot? If I move to another tree 20 yds. away would this help? Maybe I should have not looked her right in the eyes? Maybe I should have waited to see if they were going to move around more in front of me? I harvested my first deer EVER this year on opening day a small doe. She's currently occupying freezer space.Winke Responds:Rodney, I think you kind of answered your own question there. The main thing is cover unless you are willing to really, really high (and I am not). I look for branches to break up my outline. I like nothing more than to be right at the point where a big limb or two come in and then I will set my stand at the height where the big limb is right at my hip. That allows tons of cover when sitting, decent cover when standing and I can even lean against the limb to ease the long hours of standing (I like to stand). However, it is low enough that I can shoot over it. If I have options, I will go up about 20 feet. That is ideal for me - a nice big branch or two at 20 feet up. I pretty much avoid trees with no branches. If that is what you have to deal with, then I would suggest going at least 25 or always set up on the back of the tree from where you expect the deer to come from and stand most of the time, using the tree to hide behind. Some very successful deer hunters go 30 feet or more. I am afraid of heights and that is just too high for me. Plus and the shot angle is tough and deer within 10 yards. I would rather cut some branches from a nearby tree and use conduit holders to bolt them to my tree than to go that high. I think you can go back there soon. Often, I have learned that does will come sneaking in to investigate the source of danger where a buck will just disappear. I have shot many, many does that were sneaking in looking for me. I enjoy that. It kind of feels like getting a little revenge on them for blowing my earlier hunts.
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Keith from MO asks:I have just gained access to some property in sw mo. that is mostly pasture with wooded drainage running through it. The surrounding property has beans and corn planted. What is the best approach to scout this and hang stands without msking too much impact on the area?Winke Responds:Keith, Stick to the fringes this year. Don't wade right in there. Another option is to coordinate your schedule to the times the farmer is out checking fence and working the pasture (if he does that regularly). You can tag along and use him as cover as you do a quick scout and place a few stands. I'm an outside in kind of guy - I work in from the fringes and that keeps from educating very many deer. Also, look for any kind of travel corridor where the deer might be moving from the cover to the food and back again. These would be great stand areas.
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terry from AL asks:how do u feel about climbers im starting to think they just make it harder cause the noise u have to create to set in the dark . As i can hunt only state parks due to outfitters taken over area farmland i feel i scare the deer away setting an climbin but have to carry stand in out every hunt what r ur thoughts an how would u approach thisWinke Responds:Terry, I am just glad our sponsor Muddy doesn't make climbers so I can speak honestly without fear of offending them. I don't like climbers. They are too noisy for me and all the most dangerous moments I have spent in a tree were in climbers. They have gotten a lot safer since my early years of hunting from them, but it is hard for me to shake those cold sweats that start when you realize the foot climber just slipped off your boots and is sliding down the tree! They are also not very flexible as you must have the perfect tree and there are rarely perfect trees where I need to place a stand. In some parts of the country they probably make sense, but not where I hunt.
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Mike from MO asks:The website and webisodes are great!!! I have always wondered when you are hanging a new treestand location how high do you try to get each time. Is there ever too high? If you have a great location but a lousy tree, how do you modify your hang on stand to accomodate this. I see how the new Muddy hang on has adjustable platform and seats, but a couple of spots I would like to hang a stand in would need more adjustments than what is allowed with the new stands. Any help would be great.Winke Responds:Mike, We do the best we can with the trees at hand. Some spots just don't have an acceptable tree so you have to use a ground blind or hunt elsewhere. If the tree is angling, always try to set up on the side that is facing "up". Maybe a ladder stand would be a better option in some of those really tough trees. It is worth considering at least. Muddy also makes a good ladder. I hunt about 20 feet up, most of the time. I don't like to go really high because then you have a tough shot angle to the vitals of a deer that is close.
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Jacob from MO asks:On our farm in Southwest Missouri we have about a 15 acre bean field. To the east of the field there is a small creek then some clearings going into heavy timber, on the west it is pretty thick timber. I have set up my cuddeback in a bare spot in the beans where it was too wet to plant them and got alot of pictures, mainly does, but i did get about a 150 inch buck, all the pictures where at night with some being right at dark. The beans are just now starting to turn yellow. how do i go about hunting this field? the beans are almost too tall to see deer out in it and i have watched the field from a distance around dark with no luck, its just too big and too tall. how do i pinpoint where deer are entering this field then from there where do i hand a stand? Any help is appreciated i am new to trying to hunt around crops.Winke Responds:Jacob, If they are turning yellow you may be too late for that field. They definitely move off the beans when the leaves are yellow. When the bean itself dries down, they will eat that. However, your best bet is to look for a different feeding pattern. There should be plenty of other options - acorns from oak trees, clover or alfalfa, browse. Try to think of other places the deer may be feeding. My best guess would be in the oak trees. As the rut approaches, keep things simple and look for funnels like ditch and creek crossings, fence lines, narrow creek side cover, etc. Good luck.
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CVC from IA asks:Hey Mr. Winke, first off I'd like to thank you having this website. I love to bow hunt and this show gives me something to look forward to through out the hunting season. My question is this. How many times a week do you go to the same tree stand? When is it considered over hunting a spot? thanksWinke Responds:CVC, Thanks for watching the show. Now to your question: it depends on the setup. I have spots I can hunt very often and others I only hunt when the risk is justified and then I rarely go back. You can hunt a stand often if it sets up for undetected access, and the wind work while you are there. For example, I have one great stand that I hunt often. As long as the wind is from the west, I can hunt it three or four evenings in a row. I use a ditch to sneak in and out. It keeps me out of sight, muffles my noise and reduces where my scent can blow. Such spots aren't very common but worth finding. When the stand in a spot that is harder to access and where you don't have an absolute wind advantage, you will definitely burn it out quickly so only hunt it a few times all season. I love those stands you can hunt often. They are the key to my season.
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Heath from KS asks:Bill, I hope there's not a limit to the number of questions, but I don't have any friends who bow hunt. Midwest Whitetail and Peterson's Bowhunting are my hunting buddies. I now check back daily to read new answers and most of the time reread some of the old questions. Midwest Whitetail is an incredible resource and a blessing to bow hunters everywhere. One of the questions mentioned divine moments, I now check regularly awaiting a new devo, and plan to show the videos to others in the men's bible study at church. May God bless you richly. Please tell me if I messed things up. I hunt a small farm; one quarter section. I hang my stands off of trail intersections that lead to a pond and bedding areas. Anyway these bedding areas are so thick, that I widened the trails by mowing them. I read that deer prefer the route of least resistence, did I mess up? Oh and what mineral would you put out for a mineral site. The farm has no food source other than natural grass hay fields. ThanksWinke Responds:Heath, There is no limit. I am happy to help you. I am also a big fan of Pastor Paul's devotionals. I think he does a great job of relating to people who may not have a church background. Now to your question: I think that what you did was a good idea. I know some guys that mow trails to bring deer closer to their stands while blocking others with fallen trees to redirect the deer. It is a good strategy. Grass hay is not a strong attractor. It would be nice if you could take an acre and plant 1/2 to clover and then in the summer plant the other half to turnips or something like oats. That would become a strong attraction and a great place for a tree stand. I am not an expert on minerals, but recently Scott Prucha wrote a Guest Blog for me in Winke's Blog about the best mineral mixes that you can make yourself. You may want to go back into the archives to find that. Thanks for your support. Have a great day.
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Steve from MO asks:Bill, I've loved your articles for years and your website is outstanding. When do you feel is the best time of year to trim shooting lanes and hang stands? My buddies have an ongoing debate about this issue. I've tried to do it late winter-early spring and trim the lanes wide but they still grow over some by that fall and I have to go back and retrim. On the other hand, I'm afraid that if I go in right before season each fall I'll disturb too much and impact my hunting. I've settled on July as the lesser of the evils as the year's plant growth is basically done but worry about scent issues as I really work up a sweat with the summer heat. Even though bow season is still a couple of months off I worry that deer may get wise to my stand locations. What do you recommend? Thanks. SteveWinke Responds:Steve, I cut mine when I put the stands up. That means that I cut some in winter and some in October - most in October now days. Generally, I don't cut really wide lanes (maybe about 6 feet wide). If I have a hole to shoot through for any possible deer approach angle, I may not cut them at all. However, now with video, we cut them wider so we can get the action on film. I do tend not sneak around when I put stands up during or right before the season unless I know I can get away with it. I put the afternoon stands up the afternoon I hunt them and I sneak in. The morning stands near bedding areas I generally drive as close as possible, slam doors, make noise, run a chainsaw and basically make like a farmer out checking fence or a landowner cutting firewood. I may also cut a few small junk trees down in other areas as I walk in just to make sure that all the disturbance odors are not concentrated around my stands. It works very well. The deer are not typically afraid of loud noises and obvious intrusion, but the definitely don't like surprises (whether you surprise them with your presence or your scent suddenly pops up where they didn't expect it). Running the chainsaw, driving a tractor, whatever just tells them that things are normal. Don't sneak around if you know you can't get away with it. So to answer your question, you will not cause any problems whatsoever cutting them in July or August. Just make sure to give the deer plenty of warning and be sure to spread your disturbance around a little rather than concentrating it right under your tree.
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Justin from VT asks:What height above the ground do you typically set your tree stands? Is there any general rule of thumb? Thanks.Winke Responds:Justin, It really depends on the tree. I go from about 18 to 24 feet usually. I try to get a little higher if the tree is down in a dip or below the level of the nearby fields and go lower if the branches (cover) are better at that level. I don't like to go above 24 feet, but I know some bowhunters who routinely go over 30 feet. I think they are hunting more skittish deer than me. I have never had to go higher than that. Low stands give a better angle to the vitals and higher stands basically keep you from being discovered better but the shots are much tougher.
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Michael from PE asks:Bill, Love the site and all the shows...Looks like you have some awesome bucks to hunt this fall... A question in regards to stand set ups...Do you usually get all of your stands set up prior to the season, or even leave some up all year long? or do you move stands around all season?Winke Responds:Michael, I put up my morning stands in advance and if I have some time, I'll also put my afternoon stands up in advance too. However, it is easy to set up an afternoon stand when you go in to hunt it, so I sometimes do this. It is not so easy to set up a morning stand in the dark when you go in - though I have done it. I try to bring my stands in and check them each year. It is much safer than leaving them out there for years on end and have them grow into the tree or corrode, etc. About 75% of my hunts take place in locations I have scouted in advance and the other 25% are locations that I come up with during the during the season from watching the deer and from crop rotation changes that require relocation when the crops get picked.
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Josh from AR asks:Great site...wonderful video... My question is I've got a spot that is close to a county road (down the hill from 75-100 yds) Several stands have been stolen off this place in the past. I can't use screw in steps and just take them out when I'm done hunting...so what is your suggestion on how to set-up and not get my stand stolen?Winke Responds:Josh, Thanks for your support. I appreciate it. It is unfortunate that you have to deal with this just to go deer hunting. I suppose the next attempt is to use sectioned climbing ladders. Our sponsor Muddy outdoors makes a set that you can put up quickly and quietly even in the dark. I tested the prototypes recently and they are good. Muddy should be taking orders on them soon. Then you can just remove the step sections as you climb down and carry them easily from the woods. Also, I would still use a hardened steel chain and a good padalock around the stand to further discourage people from figuring out a way to climb up. I hope those ideas help. It sucks that people will stoop to stealing stands.
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Jerry from MN asks:Bill I love your website and am addicted. My ? is. Have you ever used a tree saddle and what are your thoughts or experiances. I will be taking my 12 year old daughter hunting this fall and like the safety aspect. The spots that we will be hunting on is public and to hard to get a double ladder stand to without every deer in the area getting spooked. Also there is to much underbrush to use a ground blind. Thanks and keep up the great work!!! JerryWinke Responds:Jerry, Thanks for your support. I think they are great. I have played with them and when you are going portable and mobile it is hard to beat. The only negative to me was the little bit of setup time when going back to the same spots. That is why I still prefer standard lock-ons for most of my hunting. However, I would thoroughly recommend them for what you are doing. Good luck, sounds like a tremendous opportunity for the two of you. Our 9 year old son has shot five deer with a gun and now is determined to shoot a deer with a bow this year, so that will be an interesting challenge for me too. I ordered him a Trykon Jr. bow from Hoyt and when it gets here, we will be hitting the preparation hard.
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Andrew from PA asks:Bill, first let me say that I'm in the military and currently deployed and your show is a great life line for me to hunting. I have been hunting for the past 10 years with a climbing tree stand and recently I have been thinking of buying a muddy lock on stand with the new climbing sticks that are really great as soon as I get home. My question is what do you think the advantages are from using that style of stand over a climber? Keep up all the great work!!Winke Responds:Andrew, We all appreciate the sacrifice you are making serving us in the armed forces. Thank you very much for that. To your question: I like lock-ons because they will work in any pretty much any tree I encounter. Sometimes when I go into an area to put up a stand, I don't know what kind of trees I'll find. Usually, they have lots of branches and forks and a climber just wouldn't work. If you hunt an area where most of the trees are straight and don't have many limbs, the climber would probably work. I also don't like to have to use the climber in the morning in the dark. I feel I am way quieter just slipping up into the tree using steps or climbing sticks. Good luck and may God bless you for your service to this great country.
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Sam from WI asks:Hi Bill, I just purchased my first bow and am looking forward to my first season. I will be hunting public land and I don't know if I should buy a Climber or a Hang on stand? I have to leave no damage to the trees and remove it every day, what would you get? Thanks SamWinke Responds:Sam, If the trees are straight with no lower branches the climber will work fine. However,if most trees have lots of branches, you have no choice but to use a hang-on and use climbing sticks to climb. the hang-on will work in any tree while the climber will only work in certain trees, that iS why I prefer hang-ons myself. Good luck. You have engaged on the grand adventure.
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Cole from IA asks:Bill, I just started hunting a new property last season located on a river bottom in south eastern Iowa. I never saw any bucks over a 140 class when I was able to hunt, however the people who shotgun hunt the property consistently take a 150 plus deer each year. Obviously there are quality deer on the property so my question is, what mistakes could I be making, and what tactics can I use to be more likely to come in contact with these quality bucks?Winke Responds:Cole, Thanks for your support. There are a million ways that a big deer can give you the slip, but just to keep it simple, the main reasons may be that you aren't hunting the right times and places - I guess that covers a lot of ground. I would be sure to be hunting as much as possible from Nov 3 through Nov 10. That is always a good timeframe. I would hunt near feeding areas (not necessarily right on them but near them) in the evenings and near bedding in the mornings. Bucks are looking for does, so hunt places that does concentrate. Finally, be sure that the routes you take to and from your tree stands keep you from being seen, heard or smelled while on the move. You may find this to be biggest challenge. And solving it will have a big improvement on your success. Not all good looking stand locations can be hunted without alerting deer, so some you will need to avoid. If you keep those ideas in mind, you should do fine. Sometimes it just comes down to luck in the end. Maybe you were just unlucky this year. Good luck to you this season. Bill
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David from AL asks:I have a quick question. I have stands set up that were very sucessful for me this year. soybeans were in the fields. Next year, The fields will be in corn. Will the same stands be effective with the corn. The corn won't come off until the 1st of the year (next yr) Is it safe to assume that the deer will bed in the corn and not in the bedding areas that they use with soybeans in the fields? Farmer says no chance of corn coming off earlier or planting something else. Thanks.Winke Responds:David, I wouldn't necessarily assume the deer will bed in the standing corn. I have standing corn on farm every year throughout much of the season and I don't feel the deer are bedding in it extensively. If they get pressured in the nearby timber they may move to the corn to escape the push, but otherwise, I would say your normal stands will still work. Good luck. Bill
