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Shooting Skills
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  • Which aiming style is better: one eye or two?
    Eric from MO asks:
    Bill, while watching the latest episode on technique, a question came to mind. Do you recommend closing one eye or trying to keep both open while shooting? I’ve heard mixed opinions. Thanks.
    Winke Responds:
    Eric, If you look at my style, I squint my non-dominant eye because I want to retain a full field of view but I want to reduce the acuity of my non-dominant eye enough that even in low light situations, there is no chance that it will take over the sight picture. If you shoot with both eyes open in low light you run that risk because the peep sight reduces visibility of the dominant eye encouraging the non-dominant eye to take over whether you realize it or not. I noticed this many years ago so I stopped shooting with bow eyes open. Top shooters suggest closing the non-dominant eye altogether to eliminate any chance of it taking over the sight picture, but I have found that squinting it works well for me. Just have to train yourself to do it exactly the same every time. I have done it for so long that I never have to think about it, but if you change styles you will need to practice it relentlessly so you don't lapse into your old style during the season. Good luck. (4-27-12)
  • I am having clearance issues: do you wear an armguard? What about your binos and rangefinder - do they get in the string?
    bill from AL asks:
    Hey Bill....I have a couple clearance issues...Do you wear an arm guard?....I notice you have your binoculars and your range finder hanging from your neck.....do they ever get in the way of your string when you shoot?....how about banging off the riser?...my cold weather jacket has a collar that "sticks out" when it is zipped up and can make contact with the string when I release...is that a common problem of do you think my body positioning is causing this?....I'm betting G4 is on the ground soon
    Winke Responds:
    Bill, I never wear an armguard. I don't need one on the normal suit I wear. If I would start to wear something with larger arms (baggy material) I would likely duct tape the excess out of the sleeve. I have done this in the past with some jackets. I make a fold right down the length of the forearm and then run a piece of duct tape down the length of the fold to keep the sleeve from billowing out. It works well and I don't have to remember to wear the armguard or to carry one. I have never had a problem with binos or rangefinder getting in the string. I have done this on all my hunting for 30 years. They hang well below the string. I would do something about the collar, yes. I would likely try something with duct tape - my favorite cure-all. Your body positioning could be to blame, but I would have to see you shoot to know for sure. I would fix the problems with whatever means you need to now and then work on your form during the off-season if that is an issue. I appreciate the encouragement on the buck. Happy New Year. (12-31-11)
  • Tell me more about your practice regimen; how many arrows do you shoot? etc.
    kevin from MT asks:
    Hey Bill! I just have a few questions about your shooting regimen. How often do you shoot? How many arrows per session? Field tips or broad heads? Do you shoot at dot targets or 3D targets? Do you ever shoot from practice tree stands? Do you ever shoot from your stand while in hunting mode? Thanks Bill! Happy Holidays!!!
    Winke Responds:
    Kevin, I shoot every day for about the final month leading up to the time when I start hunting. I may shoot for about 20 minutes and focus 100% energy on every single arrow during that time. When I was learning to shoot a bow I shot for about an hour per day for most of two years. But once you have the form pretty well mastered, it is more about maintenance and that doesn't take as long. I mostly practice at 40 to 60 yards and shoot as many arrows as I can shoot with full concentration during that time. About 20 probably. I try to shoot at least twice a week all during the season. More would be better. I shoot dots. I am most interested in maintaining form and strength. I have shot enough deer and other game that I am not worried about practicing picking a spot and all that stuff that goes with 3-D targets, but it is a very good practice to engage in. I shoot a bit from tree stands, but not much. My bow hits the same from the tree as it does from the ground. (More about that some other time). I don't shoot from my stand when hunting, but it is a good practice. I just don't do it. I do practice draw a few times after getting in the tree each time to make sure everything is working correctly. Good luck. Happy New Year. (12-28-11)
  • My children are right-eye dominant but left-handed; should I start them shooting right or left handed?
    Harold from MO asks:
    Bill, Recently my two children ages 4 and 5 have shown a real interest in shooting a bow. Naturally I am very excited about this, but I want them to have a good time and make sure they start off right. My question is this,they are both left handed and right eye dominant. Should I just start them shooting right handed, or let them shoot left handed? I am right hand/right eye, and I just can't imagine shooting left eye dominant. This may be a dumb question, but I don't want them to get discouraged. Thanks, Harold
    Winke Responds:
    Harold, I would start them shooting right-handed. They will take to it very easily. Good luck.
  • I see you shoot with both eyes open. What are the advantages and how do you shoot this way?
    Shane from IL asks:
    Hey Bill, Just a short question that has probably been answered 100 times. I noticed when shooting, always shoot with both eyes open. What kind of advantages have you found using this technique? I have tried and tried to do this while shooting, but just can't train myself to do it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for any insight you can give me and I am looking forward to this season and the show!!! Take care.
    Winke Responds:
    Shane, I squint my left eye. If I close it all the way, my field of view is limited. If I leave it wide open I see two pins and run the risk of having my non-dominant eye take over the sight picture in low light when the peep is restricting light to my dominant eye. Randy Ulmer doesn't necessarily like this style because he feels it is too inconsistent. He likes to close the non-dominant eye every time. I have done it this way for about 20 years, so I guess I just do it naturally now. I certainly don't think about it. It is worth a try for sure. Just make sure you do it the same way every time. Good luck.
  • I can shoot well on the range, but pull my shots at game; what can I do to shoot better at game?
    kevin from WI asks:
    hi bill, i was wondering while i was shoot my bow today why i always pull the shots at deer. i'm a fairly good shoot with about 3 inch groups at 30 yds. all the deer i have shot with the gun and bow i always pull so that i it them in the liver our the butt. so is there anything that i could do to help me shot better, exspecialy with my bow. what do you do? thanks have a great easter.
    Winke Responds:
    Kevin, There could be a number of reasons. The most common would be simply rushing the shot and then looking up quickly to see where the arrow hits. That is only a guess. If you can discipline yourself to squeeze the trigger on the shot, even at game, your success will greatly improve. It is tough to do when every cell is your body is screaming "Hurry!" but if you can force yourself to slow down and squeeze off the shot, you should do better. Good luck.
  • Is it harder to shoot accurately at a deer target than a bullseye on a bag target or is it just me?
    Chris from LA asks:
    Hi Bill, That was pretty neat hearing all of those turkeys gobbling on the latest episode. We've got a pretty good bit of birds where I hunt but nothing anything like that! Just wanted to share this. I've been shooting a target bag with my bow and I've been shooting very well at 20, 30, and 40 yards. I recently bought two deer targets. I never thought shooting at deer targets would be any different than shooting at a bag or block but I think different now. The deer targets don't have a "bullseye" on them to hold rock steady on. Does it normally take a while to get used to shooting a deer target vs. a bullseye target?
    Winke Responds:
    Chris, Yes, that was very cool. I agree. Those guys did a great job producing that segment. It is harder to aim when there is no aimpoint. That is why it is an advantage to shoot last when competing in a 3-D tournament - you get to choose which arrow to aim at. focus on picking a small spot on the animal. It is harder when you can't see detail. I think that will teach you that your maximum range on game is not as far as it is on targets simply because it is harder to be super accurate without a pinpoint aiming spot. Narrow it down as best you can. Remember, aim small, miss small. Good luck.
  • I release with fingers and have a hard time keeping a good group past 40 yards? Is that common? Is my dream of long-range accuracy with fingers a pipe dream?
    Joe from ME asks:
    Hi Bill, Love the site, I learn something useful in every episode. I've been shooting fingers for 25 years mainly because I don't like the distraction of a release while I'm concentrating on the movement and body language of an approaching deer. I've been trying to extend my effective range for a couple years. I can manage tight groups out to 40 yards but get inconsistent groups past that. Is it reasonable for a finger shooter to maintain accuracy at farther distances or am I just chasing a pipe dream? Thanks for all the great a
    Winke Responds:
    Joe, It is definitely harder to shoot a bow accurately with fingers than with a release aid. The fingers just introduce more variables into the shot than the release does. However, I have known some finger shooter that were very accurate at 50 yards, but they are definitely in the minority. If you are seioius about longer range shooting, try the release or practice long hours to make your finger release and overall form perfect. Or, just be happy with 40 yard shots. That is still a pretty long poke for any bowhunter. Good luck.
  • Couldn't a finger shooter use a drop away arrow rest effectively in order to eliminate fletching contact?
    Joe from ME asks:
    Hey Bill, I have read your book, Setting Up The Perfect Hunting Bow several times and consider it the bible for getting the most out of a bow. In your section on rest selection you recommend that finger shooters use a rest that minimizes contact and clears easily out of the fletchings path. You suggest a flipper rest. My question is wouldn't a drop away rest do the best job of elimimnating fletching contact? Thanks for the great book.
    Winke Responds:
    Joe, Thanks for the feedback. Finger released arrows typical go through what is called paradox (a system of flexes) that is brought on the by the fact that the string has to move slightly to the side as it leaves the fingers. For this reason, finger shooters usually benefit from having some side pressure on their arrows to help structure and direct that series of side-to-side oscillations of the arrow. That is why finger shooters usually use a springy or flipper rest because it does offer some side pressure. However, if you have a very clean release you can probably use a drop away rest effectively. However, I would view such an attempt as only an experiement. Experience suggests that you will be back to using a rest with side pressure eventually. Good luck.
  • What is an acceptable group for me when shooting at 50 and 60 yards?
    mike from IL asks:
    bill iv benn shooting for several weeks now mainly at 20 and 30 yards and im very comfortable at those distances. today i moved back and have started shooting 40 and 50 yards and probably will keep doing so for the next few weeks - eventually reaching out to 60 yards. At these longer distances, what would you consider to be an acceptable group? at 40 yards I was holding around a 3 to 4 inch group and at 50 I'm considerably larger. thanks for your time and advice
    Winke Responds:
    Mike, I would not a take a shot while hunting at a distance where my group size was much over about 4 inches. It still helps to take the long shots, but more than likely, you will find that 40 yards will be your realistic maximum range while hunting. With a live deer that can (and will) move, 40 yards is a pretty long shot. Constant improvement at 50 and 60 will make you better at 40 yards too. If You find that you can hold 4 inch groups at 50 yards, you might try a shot at game at that distance, but again, there is so much that can happen while the arrow is in the air that I really reccommend against it - even if you are accurate that far out. Good luck.
  • How can I steady my aim with my bow?
    Ryan from WI asks:
    Hey Bill, just wanted to let you know that you are doing a great job with the show and all of your tips and tactics are greatly appreciated. I was wondering if you have any suggestions on how to steady oneself when shooting? I noticed that i get a lot of movement with the bow while trying to dial in. I also struggle with staying consistent with my shooting as the distances get greater, any suggestions for improving on that? Thanks and I cant wait to start watching your hunts again! Ryan
    Winke Responds:
    Ryan, Thanks for your support. It comes down to strength, relaxation and using the correct muscle groups to hold the string back. Basically, you want to use your back muscles as much as possible to hold the string back and you want to change the aim point of the bow using the large muscles, not your bow arm. In other words, turn your hips to adjust for left and right and bend at the hip to adjust for up and down. If you do that, your bow arm will tend to stay more static than when you use the bow arm to move the sight pin around. Try it, I think you will be surprised by how much steadier that makes you. Don't overlook strength, however, as it gives you the ability to then relax fully without the string creeping forward.
  • Is a spring trigger better than a back tension release for getting rid of target panic? When is the best time to ask for permission?
    Tracy from IA asks:
    Hey Bill, just a couple of quick questions. One, I have problems with target panic, and I use a back-tension release for that reason, but it has its drawbacks for hunting so I was wondering if you thought that a spring-trigger release would work for controlling it enough so that I could use a regular caliper for hunting? I can use a regular one for short stretches now, but am not comfortable or accurate with it as I can't practice much with it without returning to punching the trigger. Two, I am always looking for new places to hunt that look good, but I don't know when the best time to ask permission is. I think that it's in summer to give you time to do some scouting, but my brother and dad think that it's in early fall as they think that the farmer is more likely to give permission then. Thanks for any tips you have, Tracy P.S. I also love the shows!
    Winke Responds:
    Tracy, You can learn to anticipate the moment a spring trigger fires if you use it all the time, but it is still better than a solid peg trigger. In other words, it is better than a solid peg, but not as effective in controling target panic as a pure back tension release. In my experience, you can learn to shoot a solid peg trigger correctly, but you have to discipline yourself to squeeze it. You can do it if you will put your mind to it. Force yourself to squeeze the trigger at the same rate from the time you start squeezing until the shot fires. Don't stop squeezing if the pin drifts off the spot you are trying to hit or you will soon be right back to commanding the trigger. If you discipline yourself in this way, you will do fine with a solid peg trigger. On the other hand, I have hunted with spring triggers and they work fine for that. Just move your finger in close to the body of the release if you have to shoot fast. On normal shots, keep your finger out toward the end of the trigger so the sping has plenty of flex. I think the summer is the better time. In my experience, the early fall isn't any better. The nice thing about the summer is that the farmer has plenty of projects going on around the house that you can help with - shingling the roof, moving a few trees, putting up a new fence, etc. You will have much better chance of getting permission if you lend a hand.
  • I am sighting in my bow and every time I go out to shoot I am hitting high. What could be causing this?
    Jeremy from IL asks:
    Bill. I can't wait for you all to start up Midwest whitetail shows again! Anyway. I have an old Power Mag bow made by Clearwater. I have been sighting it in. And every time I think I have it sighted in, I come out the next day and it's shooting high again. What could I be doing wrong? I'm standing the way I should be. Holding it the way I should be, and everything. But still not shooting right. What could be wrong? Jeremy. P.S. When when you all be starting the shows again?
    Winke Responds:
    Jeremy, Thanks for your support. I appreciate it. Without watching you shoot, and looking over your gear, I don't have a good answer for you. It is possible that as you shoot you gradually begin dropping your bow arm and then when you come out fresh to shoot you aren't dropping it at first. That is one possible reason. Focus on keeping your bow arm stationary (not moving at all) until the arrow hits the target. If you do that, I think you will at least begin to shoot consistently and then you can sight-in according to this more consistent form. There could be other fators too, but that is the most likely cause.
  • Is it possible for someone to shoot accurately at 200 yards with a compound bow?
    Jimmy from MO asks:
    Bill, I have a question about long distance shooting practice. I read an article in a magazine where the author said he practices shooting at nearly 200 yards. I wont say I don't belive him, but I have a hard time understanding how bowsights can be set up to shoot at such distances. On all the setups I have owned, the sights would have to be set too low to allow arrow clearance for longer distances. I can see squeezing 100 yards, but is it really possible to shoot 180 yards or better without having to move the peep sight so far you have to change your form? Or is there another setup that allows it? I shoot a fairly fast bow and I don't think I can shoot even 100 yards without significant changes to my anchor point. What am I missing here?
    Winke Responds:
    Jimmy, I can get 100 yards out of my bow, and maybe a bit more - possibly 130 to 140, but I don't think I can get 180. I have only tried 100 yard shots. However, I suppose if the person naturally had a low anchor point, allowing for a high sight position (I have a low anchor point) it could be possible. Before I call BS on that, I would need to see the name of the person who said he was doing it. The low anchor point would have to be the key, low under the corner of your jawbone, probably.
  • Have you had target panic? How do you beat it?
    Jim from MI asks:
    Mr. Winke,Have you ever had target panic? If so, how did you 'cure' this awful problem?  I recenly purchased a Hind Sight for my bow, with the impression that the closest thing to a set of crosshairs on my target, the better (since I don't have this problem with a scope and a trigger).  This seems to work until I reach the 20 yard mark...then the trouble sets in again.  Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.Thanks,Jim MI
    Winke Responds:
    Jim, I have had target panic and it is a tough nut to crack. I think anyone that triggers the release with a conscious "Now!" command has it to some degree. There is only one sure cure and that is to learn to trigger the shot in such a way that it takes you by surprise. Not just preteneding to make a surprise release, but sure-enough doing it. Then you will beat target panic. That is what I did and I haven't had to deal with it since. This is also the best way to shoot at game too - for a number of reasons. I won't dive into that here, but trust me, it is the best way to shoot a bow. I have an article in the "Articles" section of the site where I include a couple of paragraphs about target panic. I realize it isn't enough information, but it will get you thinking. I will publish more on the subject soon. The surprise release is the key. Learn to execute it (while letting the pin float near the spot) and you will be amazed by how well (and how confidently) you shoot.
  • How should I set up my bow for finger shooting? Can you perfectly tune a bow when shooting fingers?
    Joe from ME asks:
    Hi Bill; Love the show and all the information you and your staff provide on every episode. I learned to shoot a bow with fingers 25 years ago and have tryed, on several occasions, shooting with a release but was never able to avoid punching the trigger. Can you tell me if it's possible to correctly tune a bow when shooting with fingers or will there always be enough inconsistency with the way the string is released to make tuning impossible. I have tried paper tuning but consistently get tears down and right even when I have moved the nock up until the arrow is obviously out of perpendicular with the string and the whisker bisquit I use for a rest is as far to the left as it will go. Any thoughts on what is the most forgiving set up for finger shooters in regard to type of rest, stiffness of shaft and vanes or feathers? I have made the move to mechanical broadheads but still have problems with getting good groups past 20 yards but can group field points within the kill zone.
    Winke Responds:
    Joe, Thanks for your support. There are a ton of possible solutions. I could go into some detail to help you learn to shoot the release better, but I will focus on just your primary question about tuning for fingers. It is not possible for everyone to paper tune a bow with fingers. If you hold the string mostly with the two fingers under the arrow (drop the top finger off at full draw - just point it forward) you may find that it will change the way the arrow comes out of the bow. Also, play with where you hold the string on your fingers. Try experimenting with a deeper bite on the string (going deeper into your first joint) and a shallower bite on the string. The Whisker Biscuit does fine for fingers but you might also try a Spring Style rest or a flipper. NAP makes some decent flipper rests and you can buy a cheap Springy from most established pro shops. Feathers are traditionally considered more forgiving for finger shooters since they allow for some contact without deflecting the arrow, but if you are shooting the Biscuit, that is not nearly as important. I like a bit longer vanes for finger shooters just to stabilize the arrow faster. Bohning's Killer vane, Dura-Vane and Flex-Fletch are stiff enough for shooting from a Whisker Biscuit.
  • After I find center shot on my bow, what next?
    Ron Horenkamp from MO asks:
    Bill, I just watched your video on finding center shot,after I find center shot as suggested,will that be good out to 40 or 50 yards,or will i need to make minor adjustments,or let me know what I should do and in what order.Ive never tried center shot this way but it makes scense,cant wait to try it.Just found this website its awsome!. Thanks for your time, God bless and have a great christmas. Ron Horenkamp
    Winke Responds:
    Ron, Once you have found the center shot, tune the bow by shooting through paper and making any needed adjustments to get a clean bullet hole. If you are having problems with tuning, often it comes from a problem with fletching contact with the rest. A Whisker Biscuit type rest or a drop-away rest. After that is completed, you should be able to do the final sight-in on the bow and you are good to go. Merry Christmas to you, as well.
  • I am a pretty good shot on the range but missed a doe at 20 yards; what might have gone wrong?
    LANCE from TX asks:
    I do not practice from an elevated perch like I should basically because there is no where set-up for that. I shoot a Bowtech Guardian set at about 55lbs. I use Rage 2 Blade mechanicals and I shoot pretty well when practicing on normal targets 20-30 yards. However, this past weekend I missed a doe from a 15 foot ladder stand at about 20 yards. I aimed square behind the shoulder. What advice can you give?
    Winke Responds:
    Lance, There could be a number of reasons for this. I would start carrying two arrows with Judo points to my stands each time and take a couple of shots at leaves to see where you are hitting. Many people tend to shoot high from a tree stand. If you have a breakdown in shooting form it is usually one of two things: either you don't bend at the waist when shooting down - you need to preserve the 90 degree angle between your bow arm and upper body, or you might be canting (leaning) the bow badly. That is easy to do from a tree stand and will cause left or right misses. A bubble level on the sight will fix that. I would take the practice arrows each time out and see what you can learn. Good luck.
  • Do you practice only with broadheads once the season starts?
    Brandon from KS asks:
    Bill, On the subject of practice shootng during the season, do you only practice with broadheads during the season ? I have arrows that I have shot with broadheads that fly right for me and those are set aside. With the price of Broadhead targets, and how quickly you can shoot them out, I was wondering if you shoot both field points and broadheads once the season starts, or do you stick with the broadheads. Love the shows ! But noticed that there was a show where a hunt was with an outfitter(sitka) I hope this does'nt head in that direction. What I think most of us really are enjoying is the "real deal" of people like us working folks just putting in the time and hunting properties that are found door knocking or self owned or leased. Please no Outfitters. Thanks Bill God Bless !
    Winke Responds:
    Brandon, We aren't going to use outfitters. We have a few outfitters on the pro staff, that hunt their own deer, but we don't have any hunts scheduled with outfitters that I am aware of. I have nothing against outfitters, it is just not the culture of our "do it yourself" show. We want to have good hunters, hunting bucks they have scouted and patterned themselves. I know that Jeff was hunting Sika deer in MD. I got the hunch that was a kind of traditional hunt that he makes every year. He hunts his own whitetails. Now for your question: I shoot mechanicals most of the time so I practice with field points once I determine that they fly the same (which they always have). When I used to shoot fixed-blade heads all the time, I did most of my practicing with field points, but would occassionally put a used set of blades on one of my heads to be sure I was still hitting the right place with the broadheads.
  • How can I improve my shooting past 20 yards?
    Mark from MO asks:
    Mr. Winke love the show, keep it up. My friend just got me into bowhunting and I love it. I have been practicing for about 5 weeks and at 20 yards I am only missing my target by 1/4 of a inch but, when I move back to thirty I am off. The bow has been check by a shop so it is ok. So it is me. I believe it is my bow hand not beening steady. If I have to draw back and wait it gets worst but, if I draw back and shoot Im close. Anything you can offer would be greatly appreicated. Also is there any way i could contact Mike Earp to get some pointers on how to go about scouting the Twain. GO!! MO!! THANKS FOR EVERYTHING
    Winke Responds:
    Mark, More than likely it is simply a matter of learning to relax all your muscles fully. It is easiest to do that if you have good positions and good form, and have practiced enough to have good strength in your shooting muscles. Be sure to hold your aim and keep your bow arm steady until the arrow hits. That is the real key for most people to better accuracy at the longer distances. Also, be sure not to punch the release. Simply squeeze the trigger until it goes off. I also put a very slight bend in my bow arm to unlock it and that helps me to aim more steadily. I will send Mike your e-mail address and he can then contact you. I don't give out contact information for the guys.
  • I have a right-handed bow but am left eye dominant. Should I switch bows?
    Murray from AB asks:
    Hi Bill, I am new to Bow Hunting, having originated from Australia, and was wondering, I bought my bow on the premise that I was a right hander, but have come to find that I am left eye dominant. Is there a way I can set up my bow to allow for this, or should I just go and trade my bow for left handed and start learning to shoot that way to allow for my dominancy? Absolutely love your show, wish there was a mule deer one just like it for us Western Hunters!!! Keep Pushing the Boundaries!! Murray, Brooks, AB
    Winke Responds:
    Murray, I appreciate your support. You have two options - you can either learn to shoot with your left eye closed (not a bad idea) or trade the bow for a left-handed model. You may find that closing your eye is an important part of accuracy for you no matter which hand you hold the bow. If that is the case, there is no need to change. I guess most importantly, does the bow feel natural in your right hand? If not, might as well switch right away before it starts to feel natural there. If it feels natural in your right hand, I would then learn to shoot with the left eye closed.
  • My girlfriend's groups are too big at 30 yards. What can we do to fix that?
    anthony from TX asks:
    my girlfreind shoots a bow at 38 pounds and is having trouble achieving grouping at 20 yards, what should i be looking for in a way that would help her, all her other groups less that 20 are fine,what could it be. your help would be helpful as i dont have a REAL archery shop in my area, thank you and good luck.
    Winke Responds:
    Anthony, I would say it is probably that her shooting form is breaking down in certain areas. I help my wife and kids to shoot a bow and they pretty much all make the same the basic mistakes that affect their group sizes. First, they punch the trigger. You need to make sure she is squeezing the trigger just like a person shooting a rifle. Second, they move their bow arm soon after the arrow is gone. That movement creeps into the actual shot, so ask her to focus on keeping her bow arm in place until the arrow hits that target. Also, ask her to try to "Keep Aiming" until it hits. She might understand that better. Finally, make sure she can handle the draw weight easily without shaking at full draw. If she is fighting the string, she will never be able to hold and aim steady. Work on those things and see if that fixes things. Good luck and thanks for bringing a new person into archery.
  • What is the best way to sight-in your bow?
    Zack from OH asks:
    Hey,Bill I have another question for you! What is the best way to sight in your bow. It seems like when i shoot at other places all my pins are off and when i come back to where i sighted it in at there off again? And i can't wait to start watching the show's and where are the guys in Ohio hunting at?
    Winke Responds:
    Zack, They are hunting all over OH, actually. We have a big Ohio pro staff. I sight-in my bow over the course of at least a week. I can get it close on the first day, but then I fine-tune it for several more days until I know that any problems with my accuracy are due to changes in shooting form and not to poor sight-in. Try to be as consistent as possible when sighting-in. Don't take any sloppy shots or you will think that it is the sights when really it is you that is to blame. Over the course of a week all those shooting form issues should average out and you should be able to get pretty close to the correct pin setting.
  • My eyes are getting bad, how can I see my pin and peep better?
    Randy from DE asks:
    I am 55 years old and like a lot of people my eyes are getting bad. I am having trouble seeing the pin and the target clearly at the same time. When I told the eye doctor the problem he presribed bifocles. I shoot over the bridge of my nose and the glasses are in the way. the glasses do not help seeing both pin and target at same time. I am sure some one else must have had this problem. What can I do. Not ready to hang my bow up.
    Winke Responds:
    Randy, I use a big (1/4 inch) peep and center my entire sight pin guard (it is round) inside the peep. That give me better visibility - more light gets to my eye. It also keeps me accurate because the sight pin guard fits nicely just inside the peep so it is still a very precise setup. Further, I focus on the target when I shoot and let the pin blur out. you will still see it, but it won't be in sharp focus. That is the way that I have found to shoot best under the widest range of hunting conditions. Give it a try. I hope that helps and it should eliminate the need for bifocals.
  • When I start hunting from tree stands, will my bow be hitting off the mark?
    Curtis from OH asks:
    I have been seriously bow hunting for about three years, and I mostly ground hunt due to fear of hights. This year however I really want to hunt from a tree stand,but people have told me shooting from a tree is different than shooting from level ground. Is this true? And if so,will this throw me off if I hunt on the ground. Love the show, can't wait until it starts.
    Winke Responds:
    Curtis, It depends on a lot of factors, your arrow speed, where you anchor (high or low) how high your stands are, your shooting form, etc. However, I don't see any difference for my own shooting from a tree, but many people do tend to shoot a little high from a tree stand. The only way you will know for sure is to practice and see where they hit. I am a bit afraid of heights too, but I have gotten used to it. Now I am pretty much unfazed until I get above 25 feet (which I never do). Ladder stands might also be a good option. Our sponsor Muddy Outdoors makes a good Archer's Ladder that I think you would like. Good luck.
  • My bow keeps shooting way right. What can be wrong with it?
    Gavin Wicks from IA asks:
    Hey Bill My name is Gavin Wicks, I'm from Decorah IA and I have a question or two. I really need some help, I am having some problems with my shooting. I'm left handed and I seem to always shoot to the right. I even have my sight moved as far to the right on my bow as possible. I think my main problem is bad bow hand grip, but I also have fletching contact on my drop away rest. I have tried multiple grip positions, it just seems like some days I get lucky and shoot aces for awhile and then eventually the arrows fly right. I don't no what my problems are with my rest, I have a nice QAD but I almost always have contact. I shoot 2 in blazers and they are all marked up and even rip once in a while. I really don't no what to do, its seems like the more I shoot and try to rid this problem the more discouraged I get. Bill do you know what would help?
    Winke Responds:
    Gavin, It sounds like more than just a grip problem. The rest may be adjusted too far out from the bow causing the right hits and the fletching damage. Hold the bow on the floor with the bottom cam touching the floor - look down on it from above. Put an arrow on the string and rest and look down on the bow to see where the arrow is pointing. It should be pointing straight out the front of the bow. If it looks like the arrow is pointing to the right of square, you will need to move the rest in. Otherwise, the rest itself may be faulty. Just for fun, borrow someone's Whisker Biscuit. With no moving parts, you will be able to rule out your rest if the arrow keeps hitting right. If that fixes it, there must be something happening with the rest to keep it from dropping quickly enough. It could still be your grip, I suppose. Make sure the pressure point for the grip (where you feel the most force from the bow) is right in line with the bones of your forearm. That will put the pressure point roughly at the spot where the lifelines in your palm come together. Apply your hand to the grip so that the pressure occurs at this point and then don't change it until the arrow hits the target. If you are doing that, I guarantee the grip is not to blame. I hope that helps.
  • When do you start practicing with your bow?
    Josh from WI asks:
    hey bill, love your show, just wondering when you start practicing your bow?
    Winke Responds:
    Josh, I appreciate your support. I don't shoot year around. I shoot basically every day from August 15 through October 25 and then three or four times per week through the season. I enjoy shooting, but I just get too busy to shoot every day. I don't get much better each year. I just pretty much maintain my level. To get better would require a greater commitment of time than I have and that woudl only be worth it if I was going to compete.
  • I want to buy a back tension release to fight target panic but don't know which one to buy.
    Chris from OK asks:
    Hi Bill, To help overcome my battle with target panic I am looking at back tension releases.I have never used one before and there are a lot of choices which are very confusing.I shoot off of the serving with no loop,could you help with a reccomendation as to what I need? Thanks a bunch, Chris
    Winke Responds:
    Chris, Some of the back tension releases allow you to shoot either with the attached rope or off a nocking loop. If you look in the "Articles" section of this site you will see an article in Archery Tech about Being Better With a Bow. In there I provide a link to the Back Tension Releases landing page on Keystone Country Store's website. On that landing page you will see a couple of back tension releases that come with ropes attached. That is what you want if you don't use a nocking loop. Take a look. Keystone Country Store is a new sponsor for Midwest Whitetail and I encourage everyone to check out there website. They are also going to be helping us out this fall by producing a PA-only show for the site. Should be very cool stuff. I can't wait to watch it.
  • I am right-handed but left eye dominant, what shall I do?
    Josh from IA asks:
    I was watching one of your bow hunting videos about eye dominance. I know you stated that if you are left eye dominant it's best to shoot left handed, but my right hand is my dominant hand and I seem to be left eye dominant. Any tips or advice on this for me and other people out there who may be left eye dominant but right handed?
    Winke Responds:
    Josh, You can shoot right handed,but you will need to learn to close your left eye all the time while aiming or your left will take over the sight picture and mess up your aiming. I have seen some guys that can't close one eye go so far as to slip a patch over their dominant eye when shooting in order to make sure it doesn't affect the shot. Good luck. Bill
  • Will I shoot differently when placing my stands higher in the tree?
    Steven from OK asks:
    When Bow hunting from a tree stand or any high elevation, after a certain distance up does it effect your shoot? I guess what I am asking is if I am 20+ feet up in a tree and my target is at 20 yards will the use of my 20 yard pin connect with the target? I have scouted some new hunting areas this spring and have found myself siting stand high in the trees.
    Winke Responds:
    Steven, As you get higher you will tend to shoot slightly higher on the animals. But it should be only a small bit higher. If you are dead on when shooting 20 yard from a stand that is 20 feet high, you will be maybe an inch high (at the most) if you then go up another five to ten feet. What will change more dramatically, however, is the aim point and the size of the vitals. Because of the angle, you are more likely to make only a single lung hit and that is not a good shot for a bowhunter. So you will have to be very careful when shooting at deer near the tree, out to about 15 yards, when you hunt above 25 feet. I like to keep my stands around 20 feet because of the improved shot angle. Just be aware of this problem and you should do fine. On close shots, you can't expect to make a double lung hit and you are more likely to wound and lose deer when shooting at this sharp downward angle.
  • I can't keep the pin on the spot when aiming, why not?
    ian eckerstorfer from WI asks:
    Bill love the show, u answered another question from me in the past that was published in Petersons BOwhunting about food plots, we followed your advice and it has been great. Now i got another one. Whenever i practice and I am aiming my bow arm falls right before the shot, or when im trying to aim i cannot get the pin up onto target. When i do not have my finger on the trigger i can put the pin on teh target and hold it righ wher i want to aim which makes it even worse. I have now built a bad habit of moving my arm foracbly up onto target and squeezing when the pin is still moving. I have been doign som research and i think it might be target panic? It is getting frustrating cuz i kno i can shoot way better than i am. THnaks again
    Winke Responds:
    Ian, Thanks for your support. That is indeed target panic. Your research was correct. You will hear all kinds of home remedies for target panic, but there is only one sure cure. You have to learn to trigger the shot so that it takes you by surprise. Target panic is caused by anticipating the shot. Your nervous system gets so keyed up to time the shot when the pin is on the spot, that it simply won't let your body put it there after a while. When you get close, your nervous system freaks out. The best way to break this problem is to invest in a back tension release and shoot with that for the remainder of the summer and you will not have any more problems. A back tension doesn't have a trigger. It fires as you turn your hand at full draw as a result of pulling through the shot with your back muscles. To get a feel for the surprise release, draw the bow and keep your finger behind the trigger. Let someone else trigger the shot while you are simply aiming. It will shock you at first, but after about 20 of these, it will simply become a mild surprise. That is the proper form for accurate shooting whether hunting or shooting at targets. Don't let any well-intended person tell you otherwise. The only time I devaiate from that method is when I have to shoot very fast and then it is so seldom that I never have the opportunity to get those bad habits back. All my practice and 95% of my shots at game are executed by squeezing the trigger. After practing for a summer with the back tension release, you can switch back to your regular hunting release and just squeeze the trigger while aiming, the same way you used a back tension release. Shorten the release stem so the trigger contacts the inside of your first joint. That will make it easier to squeeze the trigger. Force yourself to squeeze while you float the pin around the spot you are trying to hit. Even though the pin never locks up solid on the spot, you will be amazed by how well you can shoot this