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wes from PA asks:bill,i have 30 acres of timber.i have a small clearing in middle of prop about 1/2 acre.do u think it would be worth putting food source in? if so what would be your recommendation,for this small plot.also acrossed rd is corn as far as the eye can see.just looking for something to have deer coming to.thanks in advance wesWinke Responds:Wes, You bet. There is nothing you can do that will help your hunting more. I would plant clover for two years and then brassicas (like Frigid Forage Big N Beasty) for a year before going back to clover for two more years. Good luck. Happy New Year. (12-28-11)
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Bobby from KY asks:My dad has a farm here in Kentucky and we have hunted it the last two years with success during the rut. The only problem is that because we have no food plots, the deer seem to just snack on acorns and small patches of clover after the rut. I have a 1 acre field that I hunt but is on a bit of a hill. What is your opinion on a good food plot for a hill rather than a bottom?Winke Responds:Bobby, Hills can work fine. They may not grow well on dry years, but otherwise they work fine as long as you plant the right things at the right times. In fact, from a hunting standpoint I like them better because the wind doesn't swirl in these locations. I would consider cutting it in half and planting half to clover and half to Big N Beasty (a good brassica blend from Frigid Forage). You can plant the clover in the spring and wait til summer (early August) to plant the brassicas. After two years rotate them. Be sure to pay attention to the directions on the bags and follow them exactly. Cutting corners usually results in poor plots. Good luck. Merry Christmas. (12-15-11)
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Brandon from MO asks:Bill, Congrats on the G5 buck and Daggers! Can't wait to watch the video on Monday each week. On micro food plots, would you recommend seeding pure clover, pure brassicas, or a blended product like Frigid Forage Wild Game Buffet? I have a couple 1/6 acre spots for next year to try this out and I didn't know if a brassica plot would be a large enough late season spot or not, or if it is better to try establishing a perennial like clover in these micro plots. Would apple trees work for micro spots as well? Thanks Bill.Winke Responds:Brandon, Thanks. I appreciate it. I personally like pure clover or pure brassicas in my micro-plots. Clover is easier to maintain and will take heavy pressure from deer without playing out. Big N Beasty is very attractive when it gets cold. So splitting them equally is probably a good idea. If the plot is big enough, splitting the plot itself is even worth considering. I would hate to plant less than 1/2 acre to brassicas for fear the deer would wipe it out too soon. Clover can handle those small sizes a bit better. Good luck. (11-17-11)
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randy from MO asks:Hi Bill, have enjoyed your articles for years and enjoy your site. We have a family farm in Macon County. 125 acres of timber connected to a creek drainage, surrounded by acres of corn/beans. I have 4 acres that can turn into a food plot. Am thanking either alfafa or winter wheat for something different.Any advice appreciated keep up the great work !! randyWinke Responds:Randy, Thanks for your support. I would not go with alfalfa. In my experience it is too high maintenance for a good food plot. It is a highly prefered food source by deer, but only works well in conjunction with a commercial farming program. It needs to be baled and fertilized and sprayed for leaf hoppers, etc. to do well. Clover is a better choice. I also like brassicas as an alternative. I would split it up between clover, brassicas (like the Big N Beasty we use) and something like winter hardy oats. That should give good variety and attract deer well. Good luck.
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What Frigid Forage product should I use to bring deer into a 1 acre late season plot in SW Missouri?Eric from MO asks:What frigid forage food plot would you recomend for a small 1 acre food plot in sw missouri to bring in deer late seasonWinke Responds:Eric, For sure I would have to go with the Big N Beasty. It is a great late season attractor. Good luck.
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Kevin from MI asks:Bill, We worked up about 1/4 acre area that we are going to be putting into a food plot. It is near an edge of about a 40 acre bean field but it pretty secluded but has about 6-7 hours of sunlight. What would be the best thing to put in this small plot this year and future years to come to stand up to deer pressure because of its small size? Love the site and the shows... Keep up the Great Work!Winke Responds:Kevin, If possible, consider dropping a few trees back from the edge to let more sunlight in. Not mandatory, but would help. I would be inclined to plant a brassica blend this summer (we like Frigid Forage Big N Beasty) and then frost seed it to clover in about February for following years. I would put down plenty of P and K fertilizer with just enough Nitrogen for the brassicas this fall. The P and K will stay in the soil and help to promote the clover next spring. Good luck.
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Seth from IN asks:Should I even put a thought to putting a food plot on a couple acres if its right next to a road and not far from houses?Winke Responds:Seth, Under the right conditions that can work - if the deer are already comfortable around those areas, but normally to get them to come out before dark, they like a bit of seclusion, even if just tucked around a corner out sight. I probably would pass on that spot.
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Larry from MI asks:I have 10 acres in Southern Michigan and trying my first 1/4 acre food plot that is as of today 6/24/11 is sprayed, tilled, PH is ideal and ready for planting. I am not sure what to plant for this bow season and beyond. I was thinking about planting half the plot in Clovers and other half in Brassics. What would you recommend that would give me the best change at bagging a nice buck this bow season. What is the best date to plant and also what fertilizer to use. Thanks LarryWinke Responds:Larry, I would probably go with the 1/2 and 1/2 approach this year. Then you can see which ones grows best and which one the deer favor in November. For the clover you don't need nitrogen in your fertilizer. I would get a bag from the local co-op that is ideal for about 1/2 acre of lawn fertilizer. The brassicas will like the nitrogen. Then ask them to mix you up another bag that would be just P and K (phosphorous and potassium) with no nitrogen (if possible) for use on the clover. If you can't find a co-op that will sell these small amounts, get enough lawn fertilizer (Triple 19) for about twice the area. I would plant in early August to catch the late summer rains. You will have to spray the plot one more time before you plant, but I don't think I would till it again. That would give you the best possible weed kill. Good luck.
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Jon from MN asks:Bill, I've just been catching up on some of the shows and it got me motivated to get things happening with my food plots. I've recently gone out to one of my bow areas and cleared up some of the overgrowth brush surrounding my new food plot. Last year I ran a brush hog through it, raked it over and tossed the throw n gro out. The clover came up a little last season as I got it in the ground late, but I think there is a lot of ryegrass that came back this year. Do you reccommend leaving the ryegrass standing? I sprayed roundup on everything besides the ryegrass (ferns especially). Since I can't get back with a tractor I need to use something smaller. Do you reccommend discing with an atv or a walk-behind? I've had a hard time finding anyplace that has this equipment, do you or any of your guys have any ideas? I'm in the Brainerd area. Also, what would you reccommend I plant? I was leaning towards clover.. Any information would be much appreciated! Thanks and good luck this year!!Winke Responds:Jon, Personally, I would kill the ryegrass. I don't like that stuff unless I have no other options. I would rather have a clean clover stand or annuals like winter wheat or winter hardy oats. If the plot is not too big, a walk behind tiller is a great tool. Mow it back with anything you can get in there. You may be able to rent one of the DR Field and Brush mowers or the like. I have seen them for rent at large rental centers. Mow it, wait about ten days and then spray it with Roundup - use a backpack sprayer if you can't get an ATV sprayer in there. Finally, after about two more weeks till it up. Like I said, even a large walk behind tiller (again from the rental center) will do a good job if you put in the time. Spread the clover seed on the top, drag a big branch over it with a four-wheeler or spread it just before a rain. Fertilize it to the bag's instructions and you will have a very nice plot of clover come next spring. I would wait until about late July to start this project so you are planting in about mid-to-late August. Good luck.
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brian from IA asks:Hi Bill, I have a small 127 acre mostly timber tract in Lucas county. There are 4 2-4 acres food plots on the property and i would like to try a relatively new blend of turnips from Whitetail Institute called Tall Tine Tubers, have you heard or know anyone using them. They are a special late season turnip. Also, what else would be a good planting for the remaining 3 timber food plotsWinke Responds:Brian, I have heard of them but I don't know anyone that has tried them. We have had good success with Frigid Forage Big N Beasty. It is a brassica blend, as well. Of course, they are one of our sponsors, but that doesn't change the fact that the blend does well when planted correctly (bag instructions). I would definitely have beans in at least one of them. I love soybeans for summer and fall/winter. In the smallest one I would have clover. In the remaining plot, maybe break it up between clover and soybeans. I would not plant corn in small plots anymore. It is just too expensive to put in right and deer will eat some of during the summer creating a huge waste of money. They are better off eating clover during the summer not expensive corn. I think a mix of beans, brassicas and clover is a good overall plan. Good luck.
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drew from IL asks:I am hunting a new farm in western il. I have been out there a few times already this spring and found a nice shooter's shed. I have already put out a few mineral sites and cleared a few openings. I only own the point of the wooded section that is about 10 to 15 acres with creeks snaking through them. The woods have over 500 acres of corn or beans around it every year. In the few 1/4 to 1/2 acre openings inside the woods i was wanting to put a few food plots to bow hunt over this year. I was thinking some of elvolved habitats products. (Provide, prograze and throw n grow.) Do you have any other management suggestions and what is your opinion on the small plots. Thank youWinke Responds:Drew, I am not familiar with those particular producuts, but I would focus on clover the first year. It will give you about three years of production for your time. You will need to do a soil test first to determine how much lime and fertilizer you need. Your local ag co-op can help you with all that. They will likely have a pelletized - fast acting - lime if you need to add lime to raise the pH. Good luck.
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Randy from MN asks:I have a small 3 acre field on the north side of my property that i purposely have left unplanted the last few years. I have done this so that the deer that bed north of my property have to come farther south into my land to where my large corn and bean fields are. I hunt this area instead because of the ease of exiting the area. The 3 acre field is just to difficult to enter/exit without being detected. My ? is should I plant the field just to have more food on my property,at the risk of the deer staying farther away from my stands, or stick with my original plan? I know without seeing a map this is a difficult ?, any tips are much appreciated. keep up the good work i love the showWinke Responds:Randy, I think your plan sounds good. I might be tempted to do something with that field though, so that it serves as a staging area where the deer stop (and the bucks especially during the rut) before heading on. It might be as simple as mowing it in late August to get some fresh weed growth to entice them to browse for a short time before moving on. Maybe just mow a part of it. I would also think that planting just one (or two) 1/4 acre corner of it to clover (the most advantageous corner for you) and letting the rest go would be a good stratgy too. You won't hold too many deer there but the small plot should be enough to short stop them and create good shot opportunities. Good luck.
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Kaleb from MI asks:Are forage oats a good food source to plant in a 1/2 acre food plot in the timber. Thanks for the great videos, very educational.Winke Responds:Kaleb, I would be a bit worried about that one. In my experience, they require full sunlight so the small plot in the timber will be a problem for them. I would lean toward clover or a brassica blend such as Frigid Forage Big N Beasty. Both require less direct sunlight than oats to grow. Good luck.
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Sean from IA asks:Hi Bill. Thank you in advance for all that you do to help us novices out! Just wondering if a small clover (1/4ac) food plot would help me kill more deer on a metro property i hunt or would it just attract more deer to dine on the homeowners landscaping?Winke Responds:Sean, I think it would be a great idea. I would locate it as far from the landscaping as possible so as not to concentrate deer too near the yards, but deer will eat a certain amount each day - be it ornamental shrubs or clover. My guess is that the landowner would prefer it is clover! Good luck.
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will from AL asks:I was wondering where to put a food plot and supplemental feed station on a small 50 acre tract? On the far east end is a mature pine thicket in the middle there are 2 4 year old cutovers and on the west end there is yet another cutover. The west end butts up to a ten foot high fence running the entire length. Hope that was not to much at once.. thanks and love the show.Winke Responds:Will, I always like to keep the food as far from the boundary fence as possible so the deer are more contained on your property. In this case, I would probably set up near the west end, within 100 yards of the fence. That way you pull the deer all the way through your property without the risk of losing them to the neighgboring property on that side. The fence makes sure of that. Good luck.
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Cody from WI asks:good job this season! and i am wondering, now where i hunt theres 273-300 acres, half agriculture feilds that we farm, and the other half swamp, crp, woods e.tc. and i dont know if your familiar with the land out in sheboygan county, but its hilly, and where all the deer are the terrain drops off a good 100 ft, (gradually), and the woods form a perfect "U" shape down in the valley, and on one end of the valley there is about 5 acres of pines, and on the other theres about 4 1/2 acres of pines. and in the middle there is oak flats, crp, e.t.c, and it all forms a huge funnel (75-120) yard across, now how do i get the big bucks tht are hanging out in the pines that are a half a mile apart to come in close enough for boy range...?Winke Responds:Cody, Thanks for the support. Food plots, small ones secluded in the cover whenever possible. They will naturally come near to these plots when cruising through the area just to see if any hot does have been feeding at the plots. These small plots are great community centers for the deer and the bucks will check them morning and evening. 1/2 acre is about perfect. If that is not possible you will need to look for more create ways to concentrate them or avoid hunting those areas where you don't have an advantage altogether. It is hard to visualize exactly what you are describing, but I hope I at least gave you some food for thought. Good luck.
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Eric from NC asks:Bill, do you think it's important to have a large (5 acre +) destination plot to direct deer movement on small properties (100 acres) with small hunting plots in b/t bedding and destination plots? I had a large destination plot this year, but it didn't really seem to "direct" deer movement like I thought it would.Winke Responds:Eric, I think that is a good strategy. The most consistent hunting I have seen is when you have a number of small plots between bedding and the larger plot. This where the deer will go first in the evening and leave last in the morning. It is a solid plan. I am not sure why it didn't work where you are. Maybe you are alerting the deer when hunting them, or the numbers are low enough that they don't need the food plots as much as you think they do. Late season is when the food plots will really pay off, so you still have time to see it work. Good luck.
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Jon from MN asks:Bill, Glad to see the show is getting underway again for the season! I hunt in Brainerd, MN and I've recently cleared some brush from around my bow stand. My stand is located in a mature forest, 40 yds from a large swamp, 75 yds to bedding areas and nowhere near any crops. I was wondering what, if any, brand or type of non-till plot you would suggest to get something started this season. I was leaning towards Throw & Gro.. Is it too late to get something to produce decent growth without heavy machinery?Winke Responds:Jon, It is getting pretty late up in your area where the growing season is shortened anyway. It would have have been good to start this back in late July or early August. I would try some brassica blend, but mix in some winter wheat or oats to get something out if the groud quickly. A good choice would be Frigid Forage Big and Beasty. They are sold right up in your area - order off their website (frigidforage.com) you can get winter oats from them too. I just planted some yesterday down here in southern Iowa. Another option is to go with winter oats and clover expecting full well that the clover won't produce much until next spring, but then it will be there for a couple of years. However, any crop needs a certain amount of sunlight. If you aren't getting much sunlight to the forest floor, about all that will grow is the brassica blend.
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Tim from NC asks:Bill, Thanks so much for the website. I live in NC but do most of my hunting in the Shenandoah Valley of VA, where I grew up. I notice many of the same trends and behaviors you guys are seeing at about the same dates, so your show is especially helpful during the season. I have a question about a small food plot I'm looking to create by my favorite stand in VA this spring. The stand overlooks a briar-filled 1/4 acre clearing in the middle of thick woods. It's been productive since it's on a travel route to & from a cornfield 150 yards away. Do you think planting clover here would help detour even more deer by my stand? I was thinking of cutting down the brush and weeds in March before they grow, raking it clear, and tilling what's left before I seed. Do you think this would minimize weed problems, or should I look to spray it after growth begins in April, and then clear and seed several weeks later? Any thoughts about the setup would be much appreciated.Winke Responds:Sounds like a great spot. Yes, you need to plant that. Cut it down, let it green back up, spray with Round Up, wait ten days and then till it and plant it. Good luck.
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Jesse from PA asks:Hi Mr. Winke, Two years ago my family leased a 140 acre farm here in Lancaster, County Pennsylvania (I've hunted the farm for 10 years plus). The family that owns the farm also leases the farming rights to a neighbor. The farmer, like most around southeaster PA, want every deer shot. He plants soy beans every year, which draws deer in for the summer. However, come October when the beans turn, the deer seem to leave. We're fighting an uphill battle, as we are practicing QDM measures, but our deer herd is exposed to many neighbors that will shoot the first thing with antlers they see. Our food plot options are limited. We have one, 1/2 acre clover plot inside the woods. The farm is 60%fields, which the farmer uses every bit he can. When he picks the beans, he leaves little behind. I've tried fertilizing some white oak trees and installed mineral sites. My question is, what can we do to further enhance our property and opportunities on this farm? Thanks for your time. JesseWinke Responds:Jesse, That is definitely an uphill battle. You have little choice but to ask about leasing a couple of acres along the edges of the timber. Often farmers don't fight too hard to keep these acres as they are the least productive given the fact that tree roots pull moisture and the trees themselves shade these areas. However, this isn't going to improve your hunting a lot - it will give you a few more afternoon stand options, but don't expect to suddenly start seeing more mature deer. The only real solution is to talk with the neighboring hunters to see if there is any interest in trying to increase the average age of the bucks. If not, you are stuck or you may have to look elsewhere. Good luck.
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Kyle Vernon from MI asks:Winke your show is great and I enjoy it especially since my dad (Tom Vernon) and cousins (Darbys) have hunted with you in Michigan. My question is on general plot management. My dad and I have planted three acres worth of plots clovers and pheasants forever seed. We tested our ground at a 6.0. Do you think that is good enough? Also, what types of trees and shrubs do you plant for cover and food? One last note I think it would be great if you did an episode on preparing a plot especially since they have outlawed baiting in Michigan now. We need some education on it up here! Thanks for doing the show!Winke Responds:Kyle, I always enjoyed hunting with (and being around) your family. They are high quality people. And I had the chance to hunt with your Grandpa as well. A 6.0 pH will grow clover, but I would add lime to it because clover does best in a neutral 7.0 pH. Most experts say it needs to be above 6.5 to do well. So add a little lime. You can go by the local ag co-op and see if they have any bagged lime. Often they do that for home owners for lawn care. I would not view the shrubs and trees as cover and food because they have to be one or the other. You don't want something too attractive as cover or they will eat it when it is small and it will never establish. I personally like oak seedlings because I just like oak. I did a planting recently where I planted acorns in October instead of oak seedlings and it did great. I would recommend that approach. Also, a small orchard with 40 apple trees will also attract deer once they get a couple of years on them. I am a big fan of clover, but on three acres I would probably put half into clover and the other half into turnips. The deer get used to the turnips and really like them. I would plant the turnips around July 20. You have to plant the turnips every year. Then every other year, I would rotate them. Tear everything up, fertilize it good and flip flop the plantings. Clover likely will do fine for three years, but turnips won't work in the same soil for that long. I hope that helps. Please tell your family hello from me. Bill
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josh from WI asks:hey bill, i was just wondering when i should plant turnips and clover? i am doing about an acre food plot and want to do half in clover and half in turnips but i dont know what time i should plant them?? love your show!!!!!! joshWinke Responds:Josh, Clover just as soon as the ground dries out enough to till. That is generally in April sometime, where you are. Possibly early May. That will work fine. The standard rule of thumb on turnips is July 20. Thanks for your support of the show. I appreciate it.
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Keith from IL asks:Hi Bill, I hunt about 20 acres of rivir bottom in central IL. I am thinking about planting a small food plot, but I wasn't sure what I should plant. Is it good to stick with one type of food source or should I get more of a variety. There is already a small plot of clover less than a quarter of a mile from my stand (neighbor), so I was wondering what I should plant. Also, when is the best time to plant for the various food types (I know you already said that late July is best for turnips). Awesome website... I'm on it every day! Thanks!!!Winke Responds:Keith, Thanks for your support. I appreciate it. Choosing what to plant involves several factors such as the size of the plot, the number of deer in the area and the amount of nearby ag fields. All those would have to be factored in directly to come up with a good solution. But to be overly general, it is a good goal to provide both warm season and cool season foods. For warm season, it is hard to beat clover and for cool season turnips or other brassicas are a good choice for most deer hunters. Thus, I would try to cut the plot up and put 1/3 clover and 2/3 turnips or WinterGreens. I realize that is very general, but given the information at hand, it is my best advice. Good luck.
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Ron from MO asks:I'm clearing out 2 acres in the middle of a 60 acre hardwoods.What should I plant and how do you think it will grow?Winke Responds:Ron, Two acres is a pretty good sized plot. However, it is too small to plant corn as the deer will wipe it out during the summer. Beans would be a possibility, but personally, I would plant white clover on half (I have had great results with Whitetail Institute's Whitetail Clover) and turnips/brassicas on the other half. I would rotate them every other year. Fertilize them well and get a soil test to be sure the pH is correct and you should have an awesome place to shoot deer all through the season. Good luck.
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Jake from OK asks:Bill, I love the show and try to catch every episode I can. I have a litle food plot that is about a half acre and is fairly shady. I tried a mix on it this fall but the deer had eaten it before it could reach at least 3 inches. Although the plot wasn't very thick it was very nutritious. Do you have any sugestions on a good plant that is thick but also has high nutrition? thanks for the help, JakeWinke Responds:Jake, It would be hard to beat clover in that setting. I have tried turnips and other brassicas such as Winter Greens, but the deer will hit them hard if you have high deer numbers. The clover should be able to stay ahead of them. I would probably try to cut back a few trees along the edge (if you have permission) to let in a little light in key locations. Good luck.
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terry from IL asks:hunt a small fifteen acre area with three hundred acre of hardwoods behind me that is neighbors good deer come to feed off our beans an corn lot of our stands are on these fencelines being timber is small area has several finger type rivines that go out into the crop feilds with a pond in one they travel u think clover an turnip down these fingers on east an west of our cornfeild be good to attract more bucks or would they rather have corn and whats the best way u found to plant turnips do u just broadcast with like a grass seed broadcaster turnips are super cheap an grow like wildfire in illinoisWinke Responds:Terry, It never hurts to have some variety. I would suggest clearing a small half acre location and planting the turnips. We spray with Roundup, wait two weeks and till the soil and then broadcast the turnips. Finally, drag something over the field, such as a cattle panel or gate, to cover the seeds with a shallow covering of dirt. Best times for planting turnips is generally late July. Yes, I would suggest having a dedicated food plot and not having to rely on the crops. Good Luck. Bill



