General Food Plot Advice
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Kaden from IA asks:Hey Bill, I was wondering what your take is on turnips? I have never seen any turnip plots on your property so I am debating the quality of them. Are they good for late season, with snow on the ground or do they stick to corn and beans by that time? thanks.Winke Responds:Kaden, I plant Frigid Forage Big N Beasty (a blend of brassicas including some varieties of turnips) but we have had some really tough growing seasons for brassicas in this area. This year it was way too dry for mid-summer planting here in my area and in past years it was too wet in the areas where I planted them (bottoms). I do think they work awesome. Jason Vickerman has had very good success with his in this general area as have a few other people. Brassicas will draw deer very well with snow on the ground. Corn is so expensive to plant, beans are fine for a year or so, but you need a rotatation and the brassicas are the ultimate rotation. You can't plant them year after year after year, but in rotation with beans they work very well or in rotation with clover in smaller plots. Good luck. Happy New Year (12-31-11)
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Josh from OH asks:hey, congrats to you and andrew on the big bucks! i love your shows and watch them every day. im wondering what you think makes the best late season food plot? and do deer hit corn or soybeans the most in the winter? thanks and good luck on the G4 buck.Winke Responds:Josh, Best late season plots are corn, soybeans and brassicas. Those work the best for us and are a good choice througout the Midwest. Good luck and thanks. Happy New Year. (12-39-11)
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Ken from MI asks:Bill Great show. I have been planting turnips and rape for several years in my food plots. I have tried to rotate the crops with some cerial grains, but in some plots I need to plant the brassicas year after year. I do use fertilizer. Does this harm the soil? ?ThanksWinke Responds:Ken, Agronomy experts don't recommend planting brassicas in the same plots for more than two years in a row. I am not sure why, but I have been told that several times. Twice in a row is fine (use a lot of fertilizer the second year) but the plant creates some kind of toxicity or something that must be broken by rotating to a different crop after two years. Good luck. Happy New Year. (12-28-11)
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Mark from MN asks:I came into permission to hunt 40 acres adjacent to a 5 mile preserve with no hunting. The farmer has a 8 acre field on it that runs along the MN river and floods early. there are lots of acorns already there. never done food plots before and just wondering if you have seen more success with beans/corn/alfalfa, or other mixes? Thank you for any advice.Winke Responds:Mark, Beans and corn might now work depending on when the flood occurs and when it goes down. To plant those crops up in your area you need to be in the field by early June at the latest. That means the ground needs to dry down by then. Alfalfa won't work there and clover won't either because they won't take the standing water for part of the year. They will die. If the water comes down too late for beans and corn, consider a brassica blend such as Frigig Forage's Big N Beasty. You plant that in late July and early August so generally the ground will be dried out and ready for planting. Don't be intimidated by the food plots. Even if you fail the first year you will learn a lot and then you can apply that the next year. Generally, if you will just follow the instructions on the bag you will do fine. I would start with the Big N Beasty and then see how that goes before trying something else. Good luck. Merry Christmas. (12-16-11)
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Steve from WI asks:Bill, Love the show! My question is on food plots. I live in southern Wisconsin and just started to hunt some new land this year. I'd like to start a small food plot next year. It will probably be around 150-200 feet long by 30-50 feet wide. My question is what do you think would be the best crop to grow? The deer in the area will have other farm fields and mast crops to eat but I don't want mine to get totally wiped out before the late season. When/what do you recommend that I plant? Thanks Bill and kep up the great show.Winke Responds:Steve, I think I would put a brassica blend like Frigid Forage Big N Beasty on one half (lengthwise) and a clover blend (Frigid Forage makes a good clover blend too) on the other half. So when you are looking at the plot, you see one long strip of clover next to one long strip of brassicas so no matter where they come out, they have both in front of them. The clover will take some of the pressure in the summer and early and the brassicas will be the crop they go after in November and December. After two years rotate them. Good luck and Merry Christmas. (12-13-11)
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Tim from WI asks:Congrats to your son on a great buck. He killed the deer over a 1 acre AG beans plot. What is the approximate cost to put in a 1 acre plot of AG beans? Will the deer wipe out a small 1 acre plot before IA slug season? Our farm is 350 acres and we would like to put in 2 or 3 bean plots. The rest of of the tillable on the farm is CRP. Thanks!Winke Responds:Tim, Thanks. With limited food sources around the deer will focus on the food plots and can wipe out beans during the summer. Maybe a better bet is to run a strip of forage beans next to a strip of ag beans, etc. to make sure that you have something for the deer to hit during the summer and also a good attractive food source for late season. If the deer numbers aren't too high, the ag beans will make it, but if the numbers are moderate to high, the deer will get them in the summer. It is worth a try to see what happens, ag beans aren't expensive to grow and the first year will give you a good test. Just keep in mind that after the first year, you have lost the element of surprise and the deer will be waiting for the plot the second year and will hit it much harder. Good luck. (12-9-11)
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Cody from WI asks:Hey bill..why do you prefer regular AG beans over forage beens? If the beens are still green and lush, won't the deer go for them over AG beans that are dryed up by now? Whats your reason for planting AG beans? And what brand of AG beans do you plant? Thanks Bill! And beatiful buck that Drew harvested there. Cngradulations!Winke Responds:Thanks Cody. I am still learning on this so my position my change. Actually, we found that after the first hard frost the forage beans are not green any longer and we really tailor our food plots for late season hunting (Drew's recent buck is an example of why). I want the kids to have great gun hunts so the food has to be good and attractive. Watching how the deer reacted to my neighbors' forage beans in the past few years made me think that for late season attraction, it is hard to beat ag beans. I think a mix of both might be a really good compromise. Good luck. (12-7-11)
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JIM from IL asks:HI BILL, WHAT TYPE OF SOYBEAN SEED DO YOU PLANT. DO USE A FORAGE TYPE OF BEAN OR JUST WHAT EVER YOUR LOCAL FARM CO-OP SELLS. THANKS JIMWinke Responds:Jim, I use regular ag beans. I am looking at options, but it seems the deer prefer the regular ag beans during the late season when I am most interested in attracting deer. Good luck. (12-3-11)
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josh from OK asks:hey Bill, i know you are sponsored by frigid forage but have you ever used the mossy oak biologic seed? I have a small bag of the chicory in my garage it will only plant about 1/4 of an acre and i have a spot picked out, do you think that small of an area could be an effective kill plot.as of right now i have nothing but a feeder set up in this area and have been seeing deer often. i would like to know your thoughts on this. i have also thought about adding some turnips to the mix or maybe a small amount of clover, i just need to get the most for my money with this.Winke Responds:Josh, I have never tried it, actually. I think that small of an area would be a great kill plot. I am not certain on chicory though. Maybe in some areas deer eat it, but not here. i have planted chicory from other seed companies and the deer don't eat it. I believe I would add the clover and then long-term turn that plot into a clover plot. Good luck. I will be curious if your deer eat chicory. (12-10-11)
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Nick from IN asks:Bill, really enjoy your shows I watch them every morning while I'm having coffee before work I hunt a property that I am not able to take any type of equipment into to plant food plots I thought about some of the "no plow" products but there are so many mixed reviews on them what would be your suggestionWinke Responds:Nick, Some of that will work, but you still need to spray first and kill the competition and then disturb the topsoil so that when it rains the seed will get covered with dirt. If it is sitting on hard ground (or worse, on leaves) you will have a hard time growing anything. Rake the soil aggressively and then spread the seed. Clover will work, but I also believe even a blend like Frigid Forage Big N Beasty will do well broadcast under those conditions. You can do up to 1/4 acre like this without too much stress. Beyond that, you will need equipment. Good luck. (12-5-11)
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Tyler from MI asks:i have a ? 4 for you. me and a couple friends an family members leased 240 acres near the big rapids area of michigan an were wondering how 2 get bigger bucks around and wat kind of food plots 2 plant. they r planting corn in the bigger feilds nxt year and the surrounding properties have one food plot an they have seen very large bucks but we just havent seen them on our property so again how do we bring them out where we will see them an wat kinda food plots should we plantWinke Responds:Tyler, To start with, I would focus on simple plots that are relatively easy to establish and produce a good return for the money. Corn is good, but it can expensive and if not done right, can produce little or nothing (especially in small plots with decent deer numbers). I would try to have at least two small plots (more is better) and plant one to clover and one to Brassicas like Frigid Forage Big N Beasty. I would try to keep the food plots to about 1/2 acre to one acre to make them easier to hunt over. Again, if you can come up with multiple spots, that is better. I would split them between clover (Frigid Forage also sells a good clover - I use it) and the Big N Beasty. Follow the bag instructions: plant the clover probably in the spring and the Big N Beasty in mid summer (Aug 1, roughly). Good luck. (12-2-11)
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Dylan from MO asks:Hey bill, congrats on Daggers and G5...i love frigid forage products but if we have another summer like this past one i dont want to have to spend the money just for them to die before season..what can i do to ensure good growth..also will clover grow good in wooded areas? thanksWinke Responds:Dylan, Unfortunately, there is no guarantee when you put something into the ground that the weather will cooperate - welcome to farming. In general, a spring planted crop will get the moisture it needs in April and May - even June - to thrive. With fall planted crops if the weather patterns are very dry you can wait until you see rains coming on the forecast and then plant to minimize your risk of putting the seed in the ground and having a drought. You still need the seed on hand, but if it doesn't come rain you can always use the seed the next year. Those are the only ways I can think of to minimize risk. In general, clover does better than beans in the shaded areas, but it does need several hours (roughly five or six) of direct sunlight each day, so unless the wooded area is pretty open (sometimes you can cut some trees back to open it up), I would not think it will do well - better than most anything else, but still needs some sunlight. Good luck. (11-27-11)
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Kevin from TN asks:Hello Bill. Big fan from Tennessee here. I just watched the video on "clover paths". I've been considering some things I could do as secondary food sources on our farm and timber tracts. We have oak groves and an acre food plot already. I like this idea of clearing better paths to stands and adding clover. My first question, being in Tennessee when should I begin to clear these trails out? When should I expect the clover to have value to the deer herd? How long into the season do the clover have this value? Should I just plant clover? Thanks for the help.Winke Responds:Kevin, I would clear them in the winter. Let the lanes grow up and get green in the spring and then hit them with RoundUp about mid-April in your area. Then give it about a week and till the lanes and plant them immediately. That will work pretty well. By fall you should have some very nice plots in these lanes. Be sure to follow the instructions on the bag relative to planting instructions. Good luck. (11-21-11)
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Ryan from WI asks:Hey Bill, I have about a half an acre area in hardwoods that has been cleared of all the underbrush. It has a swamp on one side and is surrounded by hardwoods with heavy underbrush everywhere else. My dad and I were thinking of putting in a small food plot, and we were wondering what you would recommend planting to help hold deer in the area more, and maybe improve antler growth on the bucks. P.S. we live in very norhtern wisconsin if that changes anything.Winke Responds:Ryan, I would start with clover. It is the easiest for people to grow and is very productive and attractive. I still plant tons of it on our farm. Keep the plot on dry ground. Clove dosn't like ground that stays wet. 1/4 to 1/2 is a great size, several of them scattered around is even better. Good luck. (11-19-11)
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Brett from KS asks:Mr. Winke, First I want to say thank you and your staff for providing a truly thrilling show. Congratulations on tagging the G5 Buck. I am unable to hunt this year as I am a full time student and work full time as well. So I am living my hunting season vicariously through you and your team. And I must say, well done! My question relates to food plots for very poor soil. I have access to a family farm in south-central Kansas. The region has seen drought conditions for several years. Additionally the soil is very sandy. What are some good options for summer and winter food plots that will produce in poor soil with little moisture? Thank you for your time. BrettWinke Responds:Brett, I have hunted that area (in Chautauqua County) and it can be pretty dry. One option is chicory. I am not sure how well your deer will like it. Our deer don't mess with it, but in some areas the deer eat it. It does well in tough conditions. Gary Swartz down in TX came up with a lablab blend that does well in poor, dry soils. It is kind of like a soybean but different. He markets it under the Tecomate label. You may also try the same Frigid Forage clover I have been using. It does OK in dry conditions. In general clover is not drought tolerant but if you can get a few inches of rain at the right times it does fine. It is not too expensive to plant so the risk is not super high if it doesn't take. Milo (sorghum) also does fairly well in dry conditions. that is grown regularly in KS and the deer do like it. Somewhere in that list is a solution. Ask an area extension agronomist (start at the USDA soil office in your county seat) to determine which solution they think will work in that area. Good luck. (11-17-11)
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Jon from MN asks:Bill, We're getting anxious for November! We put in two small food plots consisting of half clover blend and half brassica blend (approximately an acre each) right around august first. They are located on untouched land within a couple hundred yards from a large pond. We didn't use fertilizer when we first planted thinking the ground would be fertile enough since it smells like a cow pasture after a good rain.. anyhow.. it initially took off very well but we are slightly disappointed with our growth results now in late october. Just curious if there is anything we can do to give it a kick before winter or will the clover come back much thicker next season? Also, I've been wondering when I should start thinking about using rattles, grunts, or bleats? Thanks a lot Bill, best of luck in the next couple weeks!Winke Responds:Jon, No matter what the soil looks like, you can never tell for sure what is in it. I generally just automatically fertilze, but worst case, you should take a soil sample and see what you are working with. The biggest mistake people make on food plots is skimping on the fertilizer. It is probably too late to do the brassicas much good, but you can certainly give the clover a jump start for next spring by fertilizing it now. It will come in much thicker next spring. It is time to start doing a bit of light calling. There is no doubt that you can call deer in now. Light rattling, grunting and possibly even bleating. I have never been a big bleat caller, but I supppose it would work too. Good luck.
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Ryan from IL asks:when you plant beans for your food plot do you usually plant them when all the farmers do or do you plant them later so they will last longer in the season.Winke Responds:Ryan, I plant when the farmers plant. In fact, I have the guy who cash rents the commercial fields on our farm plant them when he plants his. That way I get a good crop. I am not interested in more green browse (I have clover fields for that). I understand why some guys do plant them late, my goals are different - maximum fall and winter food. I want winter food so I want the maximum production from the beans, that means I have to plant them when the smart farmers plant. If you plant them too late, the frost will nip them and the beans won't fill. Good luck.
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Aaron from NJ asks:Bill, love the show and website. Keep up the great work. After watching your show, I wanted to try my hand at a small 1/4 to 1/3 acre food plot with the Fridgid Forgage Big N Beasty that you use. I don't have any equipment except a four wheeler. I was thinking of buying some kind of disc attachment for the back. What do you recommend I purchase that will do a decent job on small food plots (less than 1/2 acre) and won't break the bank? Also, do I need any other equipment besides the disc attachment for the four wheeler and a hand seeder. Thanks so much for your help!!Winke Responds:Aaron, Thanks for the support. You would also need a sprayer so you can kill the existing vegetation before tilling or disking. That is important. The ATV mounted disks do OK in moist, loose soils, but are too light to do much good in hard (super dry) or tight (wet) soils. You may be able to add enough weight to get it bite in but you likely will have to go over the arear repeatedly. If you have a buddy with a small tractor, consider buying a small power take off powered tiller. It will do a much better job of preparing the seedbed. If not, the disk will work, but be prepared for a lot of trips back and forth. Good luck.
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Tad from MS asks:I planted two weeks ago (Whitetail Institute Clover,Turnips,Alfa Rak,Extreme, and Oats. It rained right after, and the plants germinated. It has not rained one drop since. How long before new plants die? Please let me know, so I at least know what to expect, and can order more seed. Thanks!Winke Responds:Tad, At this time of the year they can last longer than they would in mid-summer for sure. I would say they are still alive, but without some rain soon they will eventually die, no doubt about that. I would say that you will be able to tell. All the little plants will be crisp and dead. Fortunately, there is likely a few seeds left that didn't germinate the first time and a few plants that didn't die, that might be enough for a stand. Examine the plants. If they are brown and dried out, you may as well plan to replant. Good luck.
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Ryan from MN asks:Hi Winke, This spring I purchased 40 acres in Northern Minnesota. The entire 40 is flat and low, although it is very wooded with tamarack, birch and maples. It is considered a forested bog. The soil is more of a peat and it will flood in the spring but the top layer dries out in the summer and fall; tree's and grasses flourish. The deer are there, just spread out. There is a 3 acre opening in the middle that was logged in the last 10 years and we are clearing out the saplings to plant some sort of food source for next year. Given the seasonal wet conditions and non-tillable soil (too wet to get a tractor or ATV in), what is a good crop to broadcast over the ground cover after a we clear out the brush and round up the area?Winke Responds:Ryan, I would say you should look at brassicas like Big N Beasty planted in early August. You will have rake up the debris and ground cover after you spray it and kill it (give it about 10 to 14 days after spraying to go in and remove it. Then I would try to scratch the ground somehow - maybe with a hand rake! You need to open it up a bit so you can get decent seed to soil contact when it rains to pull it all together. Fertilize as recommended on the bag. That would be my choice for a late summer planting. If you want to try something new once every couple years, consider clover and oats planted at roughly the same time. Even though the clover is perrenial, it won't stand up to the flooding in the spring so you will have to plant it every summer no matter what choice you make. Good luck.
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Ryan from IA asks:Can you recommend a forage or grain that can be planted in a poorly drained soil(peat soil)? I thought of Sorghum. I checked out Frigid Forage and most seem to need a well drained soil. Thanks a lot, you have a great show and website!Winke Responds:Ryan, Not sorghum for sure. It likes drier soil. I think we planted alsike clover one time in a wet bottom and it did OK. Nothing likes its feet wet all the time. Maybe rice! Seriously, check out alsike and see if that does OK for you. Good luck.
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joshua from MI asks:ok here's my question it is almost october here in michigan well the farmer that i am leasing land off of cut down all the 6' tall bedding grass where i hunt so know it is just open fields and woods what food plot can i put in the will grow this late in the season. thank you for the help i really appreciate it....Winke Responds:Joshua, You have a chance to get oats to grow and winter wheat, but that is about it. You won't get much out of them, but you may get something if it stays warm and you get rain right away to make them germinate. Those seeds germinate and grow very fast. Good luck.
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Eric from IA asks:I was curious what percentage of your farm is in food plots, and how many acres does that entail? Also how many acres roughly do you have in beans that will stay in field all year, friged forage mixes, and clover?Winke Responds:Eric, I am skewed a bit toward beans this year. I have about 50 acres in food plots this year. That is about 5% of the available land. The food plots are Frigid Forage Clover (about 8 acres) and 35 to 40 acres of soybeans this year. The rest we planted to Big N Beasty this year too. It works well in areas where the soybeans didn't come up or where the deer thinned them way down during the early summer. I think a breakdown of clover and brassicas (like BNB) of roughly 2/3 brassica and 1/3 clover is a good starting point and then adding agricultural crops if the fields are large enough to sustain the pressure. I think a plot has to be at least 2 acres before I would plant it to beans or corn unless it directly borders other ag fields of the same planting or if your deer numbers are fairly low so the fields don't get wiped clean in the summer. Good luck.
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Mike from OH asks:Hey Bill, I just purchased an 80 acre farm in the heart of Ohio's deer country, and want to use the management practices that you go over on your shows. I just signed in late August, so it's too late this year for food plots and TSI etc... I have around 7 acres in fields that will be my food plots next year, in which I want to put in soybeans, clover, and turnip mixes. The fields are waist high in weeds. Should I start preping now (mow, spray, disc), or use those fields for cover this fall and begin in the spring? I already have done soil tests, and will lime accordingly this fall. Thanks, and good luck this season.Winke Responds:Mike, I think I would probably mow them now and that will make it easier to kill the grasses and weeds next spring when they start to grow up again. Get the residue on the ground and breaking down sooner. I think you have a good plan. I like the idea of planting clover, soybeans and brassicas in separate plots on your plot acres. Good luck.
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Brandon from MO asks:Bill, What are the pros and cons of planting soybeans versus brassica for a late season food source? Which crop do you favor the most if you only could pick one to plant? Thanks. -BrandonWinke Responds:Brandon, I like them both. I plant a lot of soybeans because they produce good forage during the summer too, and the beans are attrctive during the fall/winter. However, brassicas produce more gross tonnage of forage and they are easier to plant because you can do it during the summer when most fields are firm. A good combination for me would be 60% grain (soybeans), 20% clover and 20% brassicas. That would be a very good mix for most whitetail hunting farms. Good luck.
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Jeremy from KS asks:What month is ideal to plant brassicas for a food plot in eastern Kansas for a fall hunt. Our farm is hundreds of acres of corn and beans but when we harvest there is no food for the deer. I'd like to plant a plot this year but I'm worried it may be too late. How late is too late to plant them, and what is the ideal time to plant for future years? You're doing a great job with the show! I love watching it, it's my favorite whitetail hunting show.Winke Responds:Jeremy, Thanks for your support. Where you live, you can get by with an early September planting, but I would not wait any longer. If you don't get rains right away, you may not have enough time left this fall for the brassicas to grow. You may also want to try oats as an alternative if you can't get the brassicas in right away. The ideal time is likely around early to mid-August for brassicas in your area. I have planted as early as July 20 and had good success here in Iowa. Good luck.
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Chris from AL asks:It's really good to see you are very fired up for the upcoming season. I'm very fired up myself. I've got some Imperial Whitetail clover planted and the weeds had grown up pretty bad and choked the clover. We bush-hogged this weekend and I could still see some clover underneath. How resilient is this stuff? Will it come back? Should I take a rake and rake off the clippings from us cutting it?Winke Responds:Chris, It is pretty resilient if it gets some rain. In fact, it will amaze you how well it cleans up. Again, you need some moisture. Raking off the clippings will help, but is not necessary. It should grow right through them. Good luck.
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Randy from MO asks:Hi Bill, great site !! Have 4 acres lying along a timber edge in Macon Co. I am having a local farmer discing it up. Can i broadcast some cereal grains and/or big and beasty and drag a hog panel over it and get a stand? Thanks for your years of great articles !Winke Responds:Randy, Yep, that will work fine. Ideally, you fertilize before disking to work in the urea (nitrogen) fertilizer. But, that approach to planting will definitely work. Good luck.
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What is a good food plot choice for planting in the timber where the plot doesn't get much sunlight?Ryan from IL asks:What food plot seed grows bests in a wooded area where in may not get that much sunlightWinke Responds:Ryan, Brassicas (like the Big N Beasty blend we keep talking about) and clover are the best in low light situations. Both do require at least a few hours of direct sunlight, but don't need all day light like some agricultural crops. Good luck.
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Elwin from ME asks:Hello I have a question about food plots? I live in maine and was wondering what i should plant for a food plot when the archery season up here runs from sept to Dec and what would be your fav to plant. just don't know what to plant with the temps start to drop end of oct. Thank u ELWINWinke Responds:Elwin, Looking at this fall, you have only a couple of options still: winter wheat or winter hardy oats for one, or brassica blends such as Frigid Forage Big N Beasty for another. The brassicas will produce more forage per acre and likely the best choice. I would plant it fairly soon though. If you are able to plant in the spring, you have a few more optins such as winter peas, soybeans, etc., but even those aren't that much better than brassicas in the area where you are planting. Good luck.
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David from KS asks:Hello I'm wanting to plant a food plot In central Ks where extreme drought has been the case, Most of the beans an corn have been bailed or chopped however one of these days it will start to rain. I was wondering what to plant to offer a food for the deer since there will hardly be any grain in the fields I need something that will grow in 2-3 mo an offer food all winter long. Also the guy stationed at the Base should look into walk in hunting this offers some great land sometimes. Thanks an God bless. David YutzyWinke Responds:David, Thanks for the help for the stationed serviceman. I would look at two things: oats and brassicas (such as Frigid Forage Big N Beasty). Follow the bagged instructions on how to to plant. Both will grow fast once you get rain. Cut the acres up and plant half and half. Deer like both and if you have the only good food around, you draw many of the deer to your hunting area. Good luck.
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troy from MO asks:Bill, just read your article on 5 basic food plots. I think I'm gonna try to broadcast a brassica mix in my grandpa's beans. But these beans will be harvested eventually. B/c a bean header cuts so low will this ruin my brassicas if they are established to the point they become clipped? Should this method only be used when beans are left standing?Winke Responds:Troy, I wouldn't do it if the beans are going to be harvested. Besides, it only works where the beans are thin so the sunlight can get to the ground. If the beans are thick the brassicas won't grow well, if at all. If it is picked early enough (early September) you can till up a small area and create a nice stand of brassicas in a corner of the field. As long as you get some rain you will have something by late October that will attract deer. Good luck.
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Sean from IA asks:Yeah, so I got to thinking about that this morning and before you even said anything about the urea link i realized i may have forgotten to paste it. Then i thought to myself "No, I could not have been that bone-headed to forget to post the most important part of the comment". Well, SURPRISE, no doubt I was! So, here it is.... http://www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/cropsystems/dc0636.htmlWinke Responds:Thanks Sean. Got it.
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Ted from MO asks:I have 2 small food plots left to plant on my 41 acre farm in northern Missouri on 2 open ridges running between woods. Just received my Buck Forage Oats, and I also have some clover seed. Should I mix the seeds or plant it separately?Winke Responds:Ted, If you mix them you will need more of each - enough to do the entire field in that one planting. However, if you have enough mixing is good. The only thing to consider is that the clover won't really catch on good until next spring and will be productive for three years. If you want to reseed those ridges to other plantings each year, you may as well keep the clover confined to just one. Otherwise, it makes no real sense to plant the clover. As I said, the second and subsequent years are when it pays off best. If you don't mind having both ridges in clover for a few years (I think it is a good idea) then by all means get more clover so you have a solid stand in both come next spring. Good luck.
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Lucas from PA asks:Hey great site!! Was wondering what food you thought would grow best in wet swampy ground. Thanks LucasWinke Responds:Lucas, Consider Dwarf Essex Rape as one option. I have seen it do pretty well in some wet conditions. It is a brassica.
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Sean Asada from IA asks:Hey Bill, not that it may even matter to you but I recently planted a brassica food plot at my farm in SE IA which required a fair amount of urea and as you know it can and will volotize. I was interested at what rate it volotized and found this U of M website regarding volotization, among other things. Just thought it may interest you.Winke Responds:Sean, I didn't see the website link, but I am sure that anyone interested can search under "volotization" and find the same resource. Thanks for thinking of us.
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Eric from IA asks:Hey Bill, I have a few smaller forage bean plots and they are about four feet tall and very bushy...today i noticed that a lot of the leaves have holes in from some beatles/bugs, was wondering if basic H will work or if you have any good suggestions? Thanks! I am very impressed with the forage soybeans and would definetly recommend trying some! I will appreciate your advice, so they continue growing great!Winke Responds:Eric, Thanks for the update on the forage beans. I have heard good things about them. Check with the elevator or local co-op on the right insecticide. There are plenty of co-ops in Iowa and the local guys will have a good idea what is eating them. I have seen small holes on the leaves of my beans in the past and have had bad aphid problems some years, but it is best to let those guys tell you what to use. I never really asked which chemical I was using, just asked if it would kill the bugs. Good luck.
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Sadie from MO asks:Hey Bill love the show, my question is with the drought this summer how do you keep your food plots looking good, i had a big n beasty plot planted and it died out because of lack of water. DOnt know what to do.Winke Responds:Sadie, I have been waiting for some rain in the forecast in order to plant mine too. I am guessing that when it rains some of your plants will come through, but if you have doubts, you have only one option: replant. You have plenty of time. That is probably the safe bet. The seeds will sit idle until the rains cause them to germinate. Good luck.
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larry from MI asks:Bill, Thanks for the great timely responses. I will be putting down fertilizer ( urea ) and 6-24-24 on my 1/4 acre Brassica food plot this weekend, I want the fertilizer to be down a couple of weeks before I seed. I can't borrow a disc to disc in the fertilizer would dragging a box spring behind my quad work just as well and than going over that with my 4ft. lawn roller or just broadcast and than roll it. Any advise. ThanksWinke Responds:Larry, If the soil is loose, you might be able to find a different way to incorporate the urea, but if you can't incorporate it, I would not spread it. It has to be under the ground. Anything sitting on top will evaporate quickly and is wasted. 1/4 acre - you can almost do that with a rented garden tiller if you had to. Just don't leave it on top of the ground. It is OK to leave the P & K on top, just not the urea. Good luck.
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How do I plant my clover and brassica plot? Which is the better planting for hunting over this fall?Jon from MN asks:Bill, I've been getting my plot areas ready to get some clover and brassicas in the ground. I sprayed both areas (1/4-1/2 acre) with some shrub and weed killer which I believe was Bayer brand on July 2, as of July 10 I hadn't noticed anything happening yet. I was planning on disking next week.. Do you reccommend that I wait for everything to be dead before disking or will the spray continue to work even after being disked? I planned to disk July 21, and hoped to get the seed down by the end of the month. Do you think this is a good idea? Also, how deep do you reccommend to plant clover blends and brassica blends, and how do I go about spreading the seed? Which of these two seeds will give me the best results for early archery through the start of Nov.? I took a look at Frigid Forage and they offer a couple different clover blends, any particular one you've had luck with? Thanks a lot!Winke Responds:Jon, I am not sure on the timeline for killing the weeds and brush with that product. Usually within a week you see some signs of wilting, etc. to indicate that the chemical is working, but again, I have never used the product. I would give it a few more days and if you don't see something, go back with Roundup. RU will kill weeds and brush too. I would want to see some sign that the chemical has started the kill before disking it under. Again, I am betting that the chemical worked, but is slow to show the signs. Once I know the plant is dying, I am not reluctant to disk under at that point. I use the Trophy Clover blend from Frigid Forage. I have used is much like you state, going into small plots (up to 3 acres). In the very small plots I have always hand broadcast with a small spreader (can find them easily online) onto tilled ground just before a rain. That worked very well to incorporate the clover seed a short ways into the ground and get it to germinate. We used a drill for the larger plots and works well too, but you have to be sure not to plant too deep. Just under the surface with some actually on the surface is the best bet. Keep it very shallow. You can also incorporate by dragging something like a tree branch over the plot with a four-wheeler. The brassica blend will produce much more tonnage of forage this fall but it is an annual meaning you will have to plant it again next summer. You can prepare the soil and plant it the same way. Just be sure to incorporate the amount and type of fertilizer that is listed on the seed bag for best results (the brassicas need nitrogen as well as phosphorous and potassium while the clover just needs the P & K so the clover will be less expensive over the long run, just not as productive the first year. If you want to make the clover more productive the first fall, plant it with about 1/2 bag of winter wheat seed in your small plot. That will add a bit more forage the first fall. Good luck.
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Larry from MI asks:Hi, I have finally decided to plant brassicas in my 1/4 acre food plot in Michigan. I am going to plant first week of August. In the meantime I want to spread some fertilizer in preperation. Is it best to re-disc after spreading or just let the rain drive the fertilizer in the soil. Please let me know. ThanksWinke Responds:Larry, Disk in the nitrogen, at the very least. Likely it will be a mix with the N, P and K all together. It is not as critical with the P and K but most commercially available forms of nitrogen today are very volatile (they evaporate quickly on warm days). It wasn't that way before but the Oklahoma City bomber and others have made it so we can't easily get our hands on the less volatile and more explosive Ammonium Nitrate fertilizer. As a result, you will need to use the urea-based N products and disk it in. Good luck.
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Brian from IN asks:I'm hunting a 16 acre patch of land, what would you suggest to use for a food source on this ground. I have put out buck forage oats in the past but wanting to try something different.Winke Responds:Brian, The oats are fine, but I would also consider adding clover and/or brassicas. I like clover and brassicas in small plots. They hold up well to deer pressure and produce a lot of forage. Brassicas are better for late season than clover, but clover will hold up well until about the end of November. Good luck.
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Troy from MO asks:do you recommend using turnips? if so what kind? when do u plant? and where is the best places to plant them? thanks, TroyWinke Responds:Troy, I like the brassica blends better. I have had bad luck with straight turnips. They only grow well under certain conditions. If it is too wet, they wilt away to nothing. I have been using the Big N Beasty blend from our sponsor, Frigid Forage in the past couple of years and that does well under a wide variety of conditions because the blend has various brassicas in it that are each adapted to slight different growing conditions. Good luck.
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Larry from MI asks:Hi, I have 10 acres in Lenawee County Michigan. I am going to try my hand at a small ( 25 yards x 45 yards ) food plot. It is cuurrently sprayed and turned over and PH is ideal, the only time I have to plant is 4th of July week, what would be best to plant for late summer feed as well as bow season feed. Also should I fertilize Please let me know. ThanksWinke Responds:Larry, It is a bit early for a late summer planting, but it might work out. When planting that early, I would probably go with clover assuming you can get some rain on it within a couple weeks after you plant. If you can wait another three weeks, the brassicas become a good option too but planting them sooner you run the risk that they will be over mature by fall. So, I would plant either a brassica blend in late July (we push the Big N Beasty from Frigid Forage) or a clover blend whenever you can (FF also sells clover). I have had good success with both so I am comfortable promoting them. The clover will last a few years but will need mowing periodically to keep weeds down. If you can't get a mower to it (probably around Sept. 1 this year and each subsequent year in June) then I would plant the brassicas. I am a big fan of both for small plots so either way you can't go wrong, but be sure to fertilize. Go to a local ag co-op and get a mix heavy on P and K (not much nitrogen) for the clover or a balanced fertilizer for brassicas. You can hit the brassicas hard with a lawn blend like Triple 19 (19 units P, 19 units K and 19 units N). Good luck. I think that is a very cool project.
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Seth from IN asks:Hey Bill its Seth again and I just can't wait untill the season starts and I bet you can't either. Ok, heres my question... My dad uses a push thing on the grass to spread fertilized stuff. Can I use that to spread the food plot seeds? It has this turner on the bottom for when you push it, it spins.Winke Responds:Seth, That should work, especially for larger seeds, but I like the hand-held ones better because you can set them precisely and being higher off the ground, they throw the seeds a bit farther for each pass. I trust the hand-held units better.
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Seth from IN asks:hey Bill, I have two proprties where I can put food plots on. My question is which one is the best? The first farm is known for having a couple good bucks, but has a new owner on the land next to it with alot of food plots and plenty of living space oh and the place I wanna put it is right next to a pasture where does have been bedding down. The second property has plenty of room and last year had three nice bucks killed, my first buck included in that one. Both are good, but what do you think?Winke Responds:Seth, I would likely select an area that is not close to other food sources because that will give you the best chance of drawing deer to your plots. Good luck.
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Seth from IN asks:How do you plant the clover in the late summer planting? I watched some of your planting videos and I saw the song writer for you guys use a side bag that when you turn it, it drops the seeds. My second question is, is there other ways or is that the best way for a small plot of about 2 acres?Winke Responds:Seth, Best way is to till it up good and then use a small seed drill like a Brillion to push the seed down into the ground a very small distance. Clover does best when planted shallow. We often use the hand broadcasters because they are easy to use and don't require a drill. You can get hand-held seed spreaders for as little as $20 to $30. They do well on tilled ground right before a rain. The rain drives the seed into the ground a shallow distance and gives it the moisture it needs to germinate. Two acres is a big clover field. I would be tempted to do half in clover and half in brassicas like Big N Beasty or another good brassica blend. Good luck.
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Devin Lenauer from MO asks:Bill, Getting ready to spray clover fields this weekend, and saw James Kroll say that you could use 1 oz of Roundup per gallon to spray weeds in Clover without killing clover. Just wondering your thoughts on this? ThanksWinke Responds:Devin, We have seen it here too - it is hard to kill clover with Roundup. Roundup will kill it, but you have to hit the clover with a heavy dose. I have never tried to intentionally spray light doses of Roundup to clean up clover, it makes sense. My only question would be how many gallons per acre of spray (because that controls dosing too) and how effective it will be on all the other weeds. I can see where it would work but would need to experiment to know exactly how well. I doubt that Kroll would say to do it if it didn't work, but there are still a couple of questions there. Thanks for the tip. I will definitely give it a try.
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Seth from IN asks:Hey Bill, I was just wanting to know if it is to late too plant a food plot. If it isnt when is the best time?Winke Responds:Seth, It is too late for a spring planting on all but soybeans. However, you are fast running out of time on them too. I would plan for a late summer planting of either clover or brassicas like the blend from our sponsor Frigid Forage called Big N Beasty. Clover will come back for a few years while the brassicas are a one year deal. Brassicas will probably require more to plant (more fertilizer) but they are a very attractive fall and winter food plot while clover is only good through about mid-November there in IN. I like to have both, but it can get pretty expensive planting a lot of food plots, so you have to look at it carefully. These two plantings (clover and brassicas) can go in the ground in mid-August, roughly, where you are hunting.
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Keith from IL asks:I have one stand that overlooks a field on one side and a marshy wetland on the other. I recently mowed a small area of the marsh and I was wondering if I could plant some kind of small food plot there. The ground there is basically saturated for the majority of the year. Is there any type of food plot that would do well there. It is a small enough area that I could fence it off to keep deer out if I needed to keep the pressure off of it. Keep up the good work!Winke Responds:Keith, I am not totally sure. I think dwarf Essex rape does OK in moist conditions. I don't know of anything off-hand that really loves to have its roots wet all the time. Maybe something in the rush family, but not sure which (if any) deer might eat. I am going to say that you need to try the DER for a year and see how it does. What do you have to lose? It is cheap to plant. If you can drive on it to mow it, it is probably solid enough to support this plant. If you can till it, that is ideal. You need to get the seed in solid contact with the soil and you need to kill the existing vegeatation (RoundUp) and you have a fighting chance. Good luck.
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Blake from KS asks:Hello Bill, I have a question concerning one of my food plots. I have about a half acre food plot where I have planted corn, soybeans and some throw and grow in the middle. Everything is starting to come in nicely after several good showers, but there are a lot of weeds also coming in. I was wondering if you knew of a weed killer or herbicide I could use to kill the weeds and wouldn't harm the other plants. Thanks!Winke Responds:Blake, If the corn and beans are RoundUp Ready, you can use that. If not, it gets tougher. Corn is in the grass family and most things that will kill grass will kill corn, but not all so there are a few select chemicals that can still work. I assume the beans are RoundUp ready, but you had better check. Most corn is also RR today too. But again, you better check. I am not sure what is in Throw and Grow. If it is all broadleafs, like clover and brassicas, you can kill the grass out with Poast Plus or Select Max. You need to know more about what you planted to know what to treat it with. Again, the RR plants are very easy to clean up. Good luck.
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vince from NY asks:Hi Bill In the last episode you demonstrated using a herbicide to control weeds that would not kill the clover - What product do you recomend? thanks vinceWinke Responds:Vince, I guess there are herbicides for removing broadleaf plants from clover, but I have never used them. I have felt that mowing did a good job of controlling those. Grasses are the hardest to control and I have had good success with Select Max. It works fast and really wipes out the grass. Good luck.
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Ryan from IN asks:This isn't really a question, but more of a suggestion for Sean from Iowa. After many years of experience with clover food plots, I have learned that it is best to control the grasses and broadleaf weeds in clover food plots before they mature. Once your clover reaches about 3 inches (and all the leaves open up) you may begin to apply herbicides. "Arrest" is a very effective herbicide that will control grasses in a clover food plot. "Slay" is also a very effective herbicide that will control broadleaf weeds in a clover food plot. Be sure to READ THE LABELS! These herbicides are designed to control the weeds when they are young (before they reach 6 inches tall). Control the weeds in the spring with herbicides and continue mowing when moisture is adequate throughout the summer. You will have a great food plot in the summer and fall. Hope this helps. Have a great day!Winke Responds:Ryan, Great information. Just to clarify for some guys though, it is easier to control broadleaf plants without herbicides than to control grasses with mowing. I almost never lose a clover plot early to broadleafs but I do lose them early to grass without some chemical treatment as needed. Thanks for the information. I am sure the visitors will appreciate the advice.
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Sean from IA asks:Hi Bill, I want to thank you in advance for all your help! I have two new clover food plots which i planted very early this spring. They are starting to come up well but i can see the grass starting to come up with it. I was wondering when i should spray it with a grass herbicide? When do you think your new clover plot will be ready to spray? Also, when do you imagine you will mow your new clover plot for the 1st time? Thank you for your time! SeanWinke Responds:Sean, I would mow in mid-June and then come back and spray in late June when the grass starts to kick back in. That will give you the best chance of getting a good clean kill on the grass as well as controling the broadleaf weeds that you can only really control effectively by mowing. Good luck.
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Chris from LA asks:Hi Bill. The refinery I work for is right on the Mississippi River here in Baton Rouge and thanks to all the flooding happening, I've had to cancel my trip to Kansas this coming weekend. I was hoping to plant a clover plot while I was there but it doesn't look like that's going to happen. What's the absolute latest I could plant something that would be ready to hunt over in early November? ThanksWinke Responds:Chris, I am sorry about all the problems you guys are facing. Hopefully opening the spillway upstream will keep things under control. It depends on the rain patterns. I have planted clover as late as early June when I knew the weather was going to be rainy for a few days. However, most years, it is not smart to plant clover past sometime in May because you can't count on enough rains to keep the clover alive after it germinates but before it puts down a good root system. It is very susceptible to drying out at that time. That being the case, I would suggest you wait and plant in early August with a brassica mix like the Frigid Forage Big N Beasty we have been planting here. Then come back in early March and frost seed your clover right into that. That should give you a nice clover plot for 2012. Don't skimp on the fertilizer. The brassicas will use some nitrogen in the fall and a bit of the P & K but some of the P & K will be leftover for the clover the next year. I have used this planting strategy and it works well. Good luck.
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Jacob from MI asks:What is the point of spraying an area before planting it in clover if the weeds are just going to return a short time later, and compete with the clover?Winke Responds:Jacob, By killing them first, you give the clover a big headstart on the grass and with that headstart it can usually smother the grass out from coming back. Yes, grass will try to creep back in, but your clover will be established then and will definitely have the upper hand in competing with the grass. I would not do it any other way. It will not succeed if you don't kill the existing weeds first. Good luck.
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jamin from WI asks:We have recently planted a 1/2 acre food plot in a clearing surrounded by timber, we planted a few peas, beans and clover, and we are also going to be planting pumpkins as well. what is your suggestion on fertilizer to use on this plot? And what would be the best way to control weed growth?Winke Responds:Jamin, I would use something like 19-50-60 (Those are the N-P-K ratios for the fertilizer. The actual rates will vary depending on what your local elevator carries or can mix for you). You need some nitrogen for the pumpkins but not for the clover, beans or peas. They like the P and K. I don't know about pumpkins, but you can spray the clover, beans and peas with a grass killer that is designed not to kill broadleaf plants. That may be Select Max or Poast Plus or some generic variations. Just consult with the co-op on that. I have no idea if it will kill pumpkins so you will need to do independent research on that as I have never planted them for food plots.
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Ryan from AL asks:Great show Bill, what is the mineral lick recipe u use?Winke Responds:Ryan, Thanks. I have not been putting out mineral on this farm, though I do believe it is a good idea. Iowa law states that you can't hunt over minerals so I don't want to have licks out there in spots where I may some day want to hang a tree stand. However, one of the pro staff (Scott Prucha) has a mineral mix that he uses effectively each year. You can see it at: http://www.midwestwhitetail.com/publish/posts/701/creating-mineral-sites.html and read about it at: http://www.midwestwhitetail.com/publish/posts/99/guest-blog-mineral-stations-and-deer-cameras.html
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jacob from MI asks:I ahve always had problems controlling weeds in my clover plots. Do you simply mow to control weeds? or do you use a spray to kill weeds in your clover? and if so what kind?Winke Responds:Jacob, I mow to control broadleaf weeds and spray to control grasses. I have used "Select" with good results. There are others, as well. Poast is one and I think there are also others. Select did well for me. Be sure to check with the local ag co-op to be sure the chemical you try is rated for clover. Good luck.
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Sean from IA asks:Hi Bill, Hope you had a great Easter. How is your 1ac clover plot that you frost seeding doing? Has is germinated yet? I planted 2 small plots before all the rains we recently got (15&14 days ago) and there are literally only a few seeds that have germinated as of yet. Is that common with the unseasonably cool temps we have had? One other question...what is the shortest you would mow clover during the summer? Thank you!Winke Responds:Sean, It is all soil temperature dependent. I am guessing my clover has begun to germinate, but it has been wet and cool here too, so it is unlikely that it is doing much. Clover can sit cold and wet for long time while beans and corn and other crops can't do that because the seed starts to rot if it doesn't germinate soon. That is my most crops need to go in to the ground based on soil temperature more than any other factor. I mow my clover low. I know conventional wisdom suggests leaving it six inches, or whatever. My best results with weed control come when I mow the clover short. That seems to give the clover a running start on the weeds on when they back. Apparently the clover grows faster during the summer than the competition. Good luck.
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Josh from OK asks:Bill love the show. Were I live in oklahoma we haven't been getting rain. So I'm worried about planting a food plot. Any advice on how I can still get a food plot in by summer.Winke Responds:Josh, You may have to plant and hope. That is all we ever do when farming. However, I would always try to have everything in the ground well before (weeks before) your traditional summer dry spell. If you are approaching that time now, I would probably wait until September 1 to plant if I were you. You can then go with winter wheat and clover or an annual like Frigid Forage Big N Beasty brassica blend. Without decent amounts of spring rains, you will see your spring clover, beans or corn wither away. If your normal summer dry spell is still a few weeks away, I would probably try a plant and hope strategy myself.
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Dalton from KS asks:Hey, First off I just want to thank you for the whole show!! I love all the tips you give!! I was wandering what type of clover I should put out on the edge of a THICK bedding area. It will be coming off a deer trail and will be around 60 yards long and 40 yards wide. When should i plant it? Thank you very much!!Winke Responds:Dalton, As I mentioned in the episode on frost seeding, I still like blends because if the situation is not suited to one variety, it will likely favor another one. For that reason, I am more than happy with the Frigid Forage Pure Trophy Clover. It has done very well on our farm. I would plant it right now.
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Hank from AL asks:Bill, I am wanting to plant a soybean/corn plot on a piece of property for this summer. What is the minimum acreage field you would recommend? Also, can a corn soybean mix just be scattered on a tilled piece? When is the best time to plant clover, or have I already missed it? HankWinke Responds:Hank, I would say two acres is the minimum if you have moderate deer numbers. I would just go with one or the other. Mixing them only works well if you really cut back on the corn. Because it grows much taller it shades out the beans. I would go with all beans the first year (cheaper) and see how it works. Till it, broadcast about 2 bags per acre and then drag something over it (or culit-pack it) to incorporate to a shallow depth. Ideally, plant right before a rain and it will do great. Now is a good time to plant clover. Ideally, give it at least a month of typically rainy weather before things dry out for the summer or wait until late August to catch the fall rains. Both will work.
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Will from MO asks:Hi- Thanks for this opportunity. I live in north Missouri and have about ten acres total in food plots on a 250 acre farm. I have clover planted and plan on planting some alfalfa. My question concerns my brassica/turnip plots that I plant in mid-August. I just disked four acres today of last years annual plots to get rid of the weeds that have already started. My original plan was to just keep these 4 acres ready to plant in august by spraying or discing until then. Now, I would like to plant something in them to provide food in the spring and summer and then I could disk it in and plant my fall mix. What would you recommend I plant this spring for this purpose. Thanks, Will GordonWinke Responds:Will, Probably soybeans. You can keep the plot clean with roundup ready beans during the summer and if you have a no-till drill you can actually drill the brassicas into the beans in August without having to do further tillage. It works very well. Then if the beans are doing awesome you can just skip the brassicas for a year too. I would get the beans planted now. Good luck.
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Sean from AL asks:Thanks for answering the metro food plot question! The land/home owner was happy to allow me to plant some clover. They even offered to mow it when need be. Since it is so small i just planned on harrowing it, broadcasting 120lbs of pelletized lime, 25lbs of M.A.P. fertilizer, 25lbs of potash, and the clover seed mix. What is your thoughts? How would you go about it? BTW...when and how short can it be mowed? Thank you very much for your time Bill!!!Winke Responds:Sean, I would make sure to till it first and the rains will likely incorporate, but pulling something over it to incorporate would be great. Otherwise the plan sounds good. I have always been a very aggressive mower of clover. Some recommend mowing at six inches to cut the weeds but not the clover. I think that will work fine for removing broadleaf competition, but my experience with grasses suggests that you need to mow them low and let the clover jump ahead of them. Now with the low cost of chemical treatments of grass competition, it is not as necessary to mow low to the ground. If you mow in mid-June you should be able to clean it up pretty well. You may or may not need to mow it again. The deer may keep it mowed for you. Mowing will control broadleaf competition as stated, but to really wipe out grass competition long term, you will likely need to spray it with an application of Select (or similar) herbicide each year, around mid-May.
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Chris from LA asks:Hi Bill. It's looking like I'm not going to have enough time in Kansas to prepare the spring plot I want to plant "the right way". The opening is a grassy ridgetop meadow. Just wondering if there's any type of "no till" product that you would recommend for this situation. ThanksWinke Responds:Chris, Seed to soil is so critical in your ability grow anything and you need to be able to achieve that. If you have control of the spot, you can spray with Roundup when things get a bit warmer and then find some way to till it up even with a garden tiller. Spread the seed (probably clover) and then drag something over it to incorporate the seed into the very top layer of the soil. Rains should bring on the clover, if not this year, for sure by next year. However, just throwing the seeds on the top of the ground - even if you do kill the existing grasses - probably won't produce much success unless you have a particularly wet year that allows those seeds to live long enough after germinating to put down roots inspite of their exposure to the drying sun. Without tilling or using a no-till drill to get the seed into the ground, you are wasting your time and money.
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Kevin from WI asks:Hi Bill, I'm the one with the 1/4 food plot in central WI, I forgot to ask you what do think about putting some sunflowers in there, I've heard that some people plant them, and the deer love them. I'm also looking into buying a new release,I like the Scott Shark, or the Sabertooth, which one would you pick? ThanksWinke Responds:Kevin, I don't have much experience with sunflowers. I have heard that deer love them too, but I would be leery of trying something completely new. With just 1/4 acre, I would stick with clover. Other plantings can be wiped out during the summer - they won't wipe out clover. I have shot both of them. The Sabertooth is a bit more geared for string loops but will work well on the string too. It allows you to maintain your normal draw length when using a nocking loop. If you go straight to the string with your release, I would select the Shark. Again, both will work for both situations, but by shortening the distance from the jaws to the trigger, Scott made the Sabertooth especially nice for loop shooters who don't want to give up draw length. Good luck.
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Sam from AL asks:Bill, Me and a friend lease about about 250 acres in Central Illinois. Last year the farmer did not plant any crops and it was mostly pasture and weeds, however we were covered up with acorns had a good season regardless. This year he will putting in Soybeans on approx 100 acres and leaving about 25 acres of permanent pasture. We were thinking about putting in food plots on about 3-4 isolated acres, however I was wondering if it would just be better to have the farmer plant soybeans and leave them standing. We will primarily bowhunt the rut and latter gun season. I was also wondering if there was anything that we could spread on the pasture area to add an additional food source for the late winter. Thanks for your time. BTW, I created a nifty spreadsheet for calculating maximum deer drop versus yardage and bow speed. Shoot me an email and I will send it to you.Winke Responds:Sam, Check on the cost for the farmer to do that. Often, they will want to recoup the value of the beans at harvest, meaning it will be a lot more expensive than just buying the seed and asking him to drill your three or four acres when he plants his. Usually, if you select spots like the ends of points and isolated spots, it won't be too hard to get them to part with those acres since those spots don't produce as well anyway. There is not much you can do into pasture that will produce a strong attration. You can use an interseeder (who has one of those these days - almost no one) to drill clover into pasture and you can try using a no-till drill to plant clover, but the grass will make it really hard for the clover to come up strong. Better to focus on the spots you can control and leave the pasture alone. Good luck.
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Kevin from WI asks:Hi Bill, Just wanted to say first that I love the shows, and your tips have made me a better deer hunter. What I wanted to ask you was what would you plant for central WI late season? I could either plant corn or turnips, or I could plant both. The food plot they are in is only going to be 1/4 of an acre. What would you do? ThanksWinke Responds:Kevin, Thanks for your support. I don't think I would put corn in a plot that small. The deer will likely wipe it out during the summer unless it is well away from the timber. I would plant a brassica blend such as Big N Beasty from our sponsor Frigid Forage. Straight turnips has never worked well for me. If you get poor growing conditions for turnips you lose them all. Blends are better. I hope that helps.
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Mike from WI asks:We have spoken several times at trade shows. I respect your opinion and look forward to reading your articles on whitetail hunting. What are your thoughts regarding my 2011 food plot intentions for Buffalo County : Northern Sweet Spot mix is this good? Will it come back the following year? What is your opinion of Kopu 2( Welter Seed Co.) for clover food plots? I am going to seed Frigid Forage-Trophy Clover blend this spring for clover plots. I am considering adding Kopu 2 to this trophy blend or plant Kopu 2 seperately. I plan to put Big and Beasty blend in Mid summer strip adjoining the clover plots. Bill do you have any other options or advice? Thanks for any input you can provide. Plots are four 1/2 acre food plots scattered across 120 acres.Winke Responds:Mike, The Kopu II doesn't appear to be anything too different from what you will find in other white clovers. I did like the fact that it was optimized for grazing, but in my experience, all the white clovers I have tried were dense and had good leaf structure. The blends are usually the way to go anyway. They have more than one variety of clover so under almost all conditions you should get a crop. I would just keep it simple and go with the Frigid Forage clover blend. That is not much you can concoct on your own that will do better. Being that small, I would not plant them to grains, I would put clover in three of those plots and the Big & Beasty in the fourth. You will need to rotate them so that you aren't planting the brassicas on top of each other year after year. So every year or two at the most, you will have to tear up a clover plot and plant it to B & B and keep them in rotation. Good luck.
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Darrin from MI asks:i am considering asking the landowner/farmer if i can buy an acre of crop. I would pay him going rate for an estimated # of bushel of corn per acre...does that sound like the way to go about it? & do you think one acre of standing corn is enough to draw the deer through the late season? im hunting south of lansing mi.& our deer #'s are moderate, not like kansas or iowaWinke Responds:Darrin, I doubt an acre will get you through the entire season, but it is a start. It is going to get very expensive if you do it that way - way too expensive with the commodity prices at these levels. Me, I would rather try to rent that acre from him (he is not doing well on the land next to the timber anyway) and plant it to clover the first year. That is the least expensive route. You will need to have access to the equipment (probably a disk) or pay the farmer to till it up so you can broadcast the clover into the patch and drag a big branch across it a few times with the four-wheeler to get the seed incorporated to a shallow depth. Or, if the farmer has the time, ask him to drill it in for you. You likely won't have to fertilize it the first year, but you will need to mow it around mid-June to knock the weeds back. You should have an K stand of clover the first year and then the next year it will be really nice. You may have to spray with Select to clear out any grasses - mowing should keep the broadleaf plants at bay. The plot will last at least two good years and will give you and the farmer a feel for food plots. After that you can start to think of planting grain or brassicas such as Frigid Forage Big N Beasty. If you do that, keep renting the piece but have him plant it for you. Long-term you will start to figure it out and have a great late season food plot. I wouldn't start out by buying the commodity right in the field though - way too expensive! Good luck.
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Greg from PA asks:From enjoying your online videos I think I notice that you prefer hunting over corn for some obvious reasons. Would you say the planting of FrigidForage products are more for growing larger, healther deer as their main role in your hunting strategy? I also notice the turnips are accessed by deer later in the year. Do the deer use them any say in November?Winke Responds:Greg, Our farm is also a commercial ag farm so I have the farmer plant my food plots while he is planting the fields. This coming year I will have mostly beans. I think beans are a bit better than corn for my needs because of the cost, the fact that they are good summer forage and good winter food. Corn is more vulnerable to wet summers like we have had and that drops their production way down. Beans aren't as sensitive to high moisture. I use the Frigid Forage for both feeding deer (clover plots) during the summer and hunting over come fall (clover and Big N Beasty). The brassica blends are most attractive after they frost, but there are some varieties in the mix that also appeal to the deer before the frost. I would say Big N Beasty is a good fall/winter attractant and also feeds a lot of deer. I would use it in conjunction with other winter food plots like beans and corn.
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john from TN asks:What is the best crop to plant for a summer food plot?Winke Responds:John, I would say soybeans, clover or alfalfa. Nice thing about soybeans is that they also serve as a good winter plot too. Soybeans are hard to beat overall and clover is good for small plots where the deer would wipe out the beans.
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Keith from IL asks:Hi Bill! There is one spot that I hunt, where my neighbor hunts 6 days a week all season long... and he's not real particular when it comes to shooting only mature bucks. He pretty well cleaned out the average to large bucks in our small block of timber (other than one 3-1/2 yr. old 8 pt) I feel that my only chance to get that buck is to hunt hard at the beginning of next year to try to get it before he does. I have a very small area (on a field edge) in which I can put a food plot... what should I put there and when should I plant it? Also, do I have to worry about the farmer spraying his field and killing my food plot - only 5 feet away from the field?Winke Responds:Keith, If the person spraying is a professional and careful, you should not have to worry. However, if that person is an amatuer sprayman you may well get it killed. It is easy for someone who good with a spray to hit a line plus or minus just a couple of feet. I would probably plant clover - you need something different from what the farmer is planting nearby and my guess is that he is planting either beans or corn. Clover is easy to plant and will last at least two years (usually three) before you have to replant it. Good luck.
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Jeremie from ME asks:Hey Winke, love your show! i have a quick question for you.. I just got 260 acres and i was just looking for some pointers.. the ground is almost surrounded by CRP grass and diff. kinds of grasses.. and my land is mostly farm ground that was beans this year so im guessin it will be corn next year.. and there is a heavy thick stream that splits the ground in two parts.. there is about 10 ares of grass and wooded area on one corner.. i am thinking the deer bed on the surounding grasses and come on my ground to feed.. do u think there is any point to plant a food plot and if so what kind?? and how do u recomend getting on a good buck?? there are good deer sign(rubs on trees as big as my leg and scrapes) any pointers would be helpfull thanxWinke Responds:Jeremie, I would plant something that will still be there after the crop fields are picked. I would keep it simple and have the same thing the farmer is planting (ask him to plant it for you and pay as required). That way you have a good food plot that deer won't target too hard during the summer that will likely be around during the late season. Late season is when food plots really pay off most from a hunting standpoint. You can shoot good bucks in funnels during the rut, but to be successful during the late season, you basically have to have a good food source (an unharvested one if possible). I would really try to have more than one small plot, allowing you to spread your hunting pressure. Then you can hunt travel route (such as the creek bottom or a fence line) leading to the food source. If you have to hunt right on the food plot in order to intecept the deer, be sure to have someone drive in to move the deer off before you climb down.
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derrick from MI asks:I own 10 acres in mid michigan, about 5 of this is wooded,mostly maple, ash, birch, and cotton wood. I am thinking of planting some of my 5 acres of lawn in a food plot, probably about 1/2. The neighboring farms were soy beans this year so they will probably be either be corn or potatoes this fall. What do you recommend for food plots in this area in front of my woods. I am also considering planting some type of no till food plot on my logging road. Have you ever tried this type of plot?Winke Responds:Derrick, For the logging road, I would go with clover. For the larger food plot, I would break it up into two types. I wouldn't try to compete with the local farmers but would plant something they won't be planting to draw the deer. My thought would be brassicas such as the Big N Beasty blend from Frigid Forage for half and probably a winter wheat, forage oats mix for the other half. You will want to plant the brassicas in late July and wheat/oats in mid-August where you live. Follow the bag instructions. Don't skimp on fertilizer on either of these. Both love nitrogen. Good luck.
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Mike from OH asks:Hey Bill, I need to rely on my ATV for putting in my food plots, which will be from 1/4 acre to 2 acres in size. Can you suggest any types of equipment or even specific brands/retailers that would be a good starting point for me? Thanks.Winke Responds:Mike, I think Kolpin makes some of those kind of tools. Personally, I have never had good luck with ATV implements. They tend to be too light to cut into the ground decent. It would be far better if you can find someone nearby with a small tractor and PTO mounted tiller to get the food plots ready. I think Hardi makes high quality sprayers so you can get the weeds killed out first before tilling. Also, any good fertilizer/seed spreader is a good option. Not sure on a brand. I use a hand-crank broadcast seeder for most of my small plot seeding. It does a good job. Spread right before a rain or drag something over the loose soil to incorporate the seed after broadcasting. Good luck.
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Jeremie from ME asks:Hey Winke your show is great!! i have 2 questions for u.. how much land do u think it takes to grow some big bucks?? and i just got some new land and im goin to plant some food plots on it.. what food do u think is best for bringing deer onto my land and holding them there??Winke Responds:Jeremie, You can make an impact with any size land, but really to have full control over the ranges of several bucks so they almost never leave to get shot elsewhere, you would need nearly 5,000 acres all in one block. That really depends on the habitat type. In areas with open habitat (creeks and wood lots) that number may be even bigger. Again, you can make an impact with any size property (protecting the young bucks for at least part of the time) but to do it right you really need a large co-op of landowners working together. Food plot selection depends on many things - high deer numbers and small plots I would plant clover and brassica mix like Frigid Forage's Big N Beasty. Lower deer densities, larger plots I would plant some to soybeans and some to clover/brassicas. Corn is also good, but it only works well in areas with moderate deer numbers or they will wipe it out during the summer. There is much to this decision and I have given you just the basics.
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mike king from NY asks:Hi Bill. I live in central n.y.. Ive been planting foodplots for a couple years. (brassicas,clovers,chicory)Im thinking about planting corn or beans nxt yr? If you had to pick which would you plant? There is some corn in the area.However no beans? Thanks for your time.Winke Responds:Mike, I would pick beans the first year. They are cheaper, less tempermental and the deer still love them. In fact, I like beans better than corn overall, but you do have to rotate the crop every other year or every two years so you will have to rotate into something else during the off-years (probably corn, possibly sorghum). Be sure to add some P&K to the soil the second year if you plant beans on beans. They like fertilizer (no nitrogen required). Good luck.
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Chris from LA asks:Hi Bill, sorry if you get this question twice, but it said there was as error the first time so this time I'm making it shorter. I want to plant a food plot in Northeast Kansas. I have access to a ridgetop meadow about 5 acres in size. Is this big enough to attract mature bucks and if so, how long does it generally take for deer to get comfortable with a new plot? One more question..What would you plant? Spring and summer....ThanksWinke Responds:Chris, That is big enough and you will get them to find it the first year. Year two will be even stronger, but it will start to pay off the first year. I would plant the whole thing to Round-Up Ready beans the first year to get a good kill. That is a spring planting. Then come back the next year and plant 1/2 to clover, 1 acre to brassicas and 3 1/2 acres to corn. Clover and corn are spring plantings (though you can also plant clover in late summer). Brassicas are for sure a mid-summer planting. That should give you a good two-year plan. You can rotate everything after that to keep things fresh. It is usually bad to plant the same annuals to the same fields year after year. Good luck.
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Sean from IA asks:I already have an atv and am looking for the best atv disc available to put in small food plots(1/10ac-2ac). There are quite a few of them available. I am looking for just a disc. Not one with a cultipacker, roller, or seeder behind it. Any idea if you or any of your guys know which disc is of the best value? Thank you very much Bill and have a prosperous and successful 2011!Winke Responds:Sean, The Kolpin Dirt Works products are pretty good. I have seen them at the shows I attend but have not used one. None of the guys here use ATV discs. The risk is that they are just too light to do any good. I would be much more likely to try to find someone with a small tractor and tiller attachment. They do an awesome job on small food plots. I have seen small, lightweight discs ride on top of all but the softest soils and that can be very frustrating. Good luck.
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eric from AL asks:Bill, on a property such as mine that is 120 acres, do you recommend one large destination plot that's not hunted, say 5-10 acres in size or small attraction plots in addition leading to the large plot? I've heard some say that deer killed over small attraction plots will pattern you or the spot as a "death spot" (spot where they will get killed) and it's best to just funnel trails leading to the destination plot. If you have one large destination plot that provides year round food that deer need on your property, do you really need attraction plots--wouldn't they just open the spot more and make deer more wary when passing through where you might have a shot? Thanks, great show as always.Winke Responds:Eric, I don't agree with the "death spot" theory. Deer will avoid any place on your property where you are hunting often. They don't really know when other deer are getting killed. They don't think the way we do. They simply don't like people and will avoid the places that people frequent (they have many ways to determine that people are using a certain area) unless years of experience have shown the human activity to be safe (such as in suburban areas). I would rather have many small plots than one big plot, but if you can have both, that is even better. The small plots are much easier to hunt effectively at all times of the day. Just don't over-hunt the small plots, the same way you have to avoid over-hunting any stand, and you will be fine. Good luck.
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Dylan from MO asks:Love the show, im buying the frigid forage big n beasty brassicas and i want them to be around in my plot in the fall and winter... when would you recommend planting them? thanksWinke Responds:Dylan, That is a plant that you need to get going in the middle to late summer. They do best when planted at roughly the end of July. The bag should have all the directions for planting them. Don't take shortcuts. Follow those instructions. Good luck.
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Eric Warner from OH asks:Hi Bill, Love the show!! I have a question on mineral sites. What is better for antler growth mineral blocks/rocks or bagged minerals that you pour out of a bag. ThanksWinke Responds:Eric, Grant Woods is big on the Trophy Rock style of mineral. I have not done enough testing to know much difference. I used mineral heavily for a few years back in the mid-90s but just kind of fell off the program here recently. I am sure it is a good idea, but I try to provide a lot of mineral through the fertilizer I apply to my clover plots and other crops such as soybeans. The plants may not be as good at extracting needed minerals from the soil as they would get from the bagged or Rock, but Iowa has a no-baiting law and you have to stay away from all mineral licks. Rather than stress over that, I just have not used mineral sites. I may change my program at some point, so the short answer I have for you is that I don't know for sure. I guess I will just accept Grant's choices for now until I can prove or learn otherwise. Good luck.
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Sean from IA asks:Hey Bill just wanted to tell you have I have a ton of respect for you and the people you choose to bring on as sponsors. So much so that I try to use them often. With that being said i watched the clip you mentioned on a recent show regarding frost seeding clover. Well later that week we got a 45-50 day so i took the day off and drove down to Southern IA and did exactly that. I cut a few trees, blew away all the leaves and mowed the little grass and weeds that were there very low. It was was a very small plot 1/8ac. I proceded to broadcast 2.5lbs of clover and 40lbs of 10-10-10. (later found out i should not have put any nitrogen down) Unfortunatly i did not drop any lime. If i take a soil sample right away in the spring will it be too late to make a difference with the lime i am recommended to distribute?Winke Responds:Sean, Thanks for supporting Midwest Whitetail and our sponsors. That is what keeps us going. You should be fine to run the soil test and add lime as needed come spring. You will need to focus on the quick lime to benefit your plot in the short term and eventually add the longer term solution (actual crushed limestone) when you have the opportunity. You may also want to spray the plot in May to remove any grasses that may be hanging on. I have used Select for that purpose, but check with a local co-op for their suggestions. They may not even sell it in such a small dose, but it really does a nice job of cleaning up a clover plot. Then mow the plot in early summer to clear out the broadleaf weeds that have started to come in. It may take a second mowing in late summer to really remove all the broadleaf plants, but by the second year the plot should be awesome. Good luck.
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Sean from IA asks:Bill, I do my shotgun & muzzleloader hunting in Allamakee County with which I know you're familiar. I recall reading a great article written by you a few years back regarding the migration of whitetails once there is snow cover. This is something we battle with yearly as the deer seem to disappear every year to find better food sources. The farm I hunt on is appoximately 500 acres with abundant corn & alfalfa during bow season. However, food source is limited in December being we don't have food plots...YET. What type of food plot have you found to be the most successful in northeast Iowa for December-March? How many acres do you recommend to be placed in food plots on a 500 acre farm? Thank you, SeanWinke Responds:Sean, Here is what I learned hunting and living in that area. The deer abandon the sinkholes and open country around the middle of December (or whenever the snow starts to pile up and the temps get cold). They will group up in creek and river valleys - I think to use the terrain and cover for shelter from the winds. I used to hunt pheasants religiously as a boy in that country and we never jumped deer (nor saw tracks) past the time when the snow started to pile up. So unless you have some access to good sized blocks of cover (more than the small wood lots and sinkholes) I believe you will always face the reality of deer migrating out even if you have the food. However, if you have the cover, you will definitely have the deer once you get food on there. I would focus on supplying a wide variety of crops. The ideal late season food for deer in the Midwest is corn. You can't go wrong there, but it also pays to have some beans and clover to supply protien to the diet during the summer and early fall. Deer also love beans all winter. Brassicas (such as the Big N Beasty blend from Frigid Forage) are also a very good choice to put into small plots for winter hunting. Clover is great in small plots for fall hunting. On a 500 acre farm, I would have at least 20 acres of food plots spread around. I know that seems extreme, and maybe it is if you don't have a lot of deer in the area, but you will be surprised how many you pull in from the neighborhood that you end up feeding through the winter. By the second year of such a food plot program, the deer will come to see your farm as the place to be when the snow flies. That is when things start to get really interesting! Good luck.
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Luke from MN asks:Hey Bill. I have about 10 and a half acres of land on our farm that I was thinking about planting for food plots. I have been looking around at a lot of different seed mixtures and I came across one that has a mixture of corn, soybeans, and lablab. I was thinking about planting this in a plot about 4 or 5 acres for a late season producer. Do you think that a mix like this would be better than just planting it all soybeans or all corn? Have you ever had any experience with lablab? I really like the show and I appreciate all you do to help out us bowhunters across the country. Good luck with the rest of your season.Winke Responds:Luke, I would not plant a grain mix. Go with solid patches of one or the other. I would keep it simple for starters. I would go five acres of soybeans the first year, maybe an acre of clover too. Then once the RoundUp Ready beans allow you to get a good kill of the existing vegetation, you can consider going to other crops such as corn or break it up into four sections with corn, beans, brassicas, winter wheat (in rotation) and clover. It would have something for every time of the year and would draw and hold a lot of deer. I have never tried LabLab. I guess I would stick wtih soybeans for this part of the country. Good luck.
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larry from IL asks:I bow hunt and shotgun hunt in Calhoun County, Il and the property I hunt on the deer travel on top of a bluff so that is where i hunt. There is a small field that snakes through thick timber on top of the hill. I hunt in the timber along an old logging trail and see a decent number of deer but my trail cameras get way more activity in the field. I was wanting to move my stand next year and hunt at the opening of the trail over a small 1 or 2 acres food plot. I have never planted a food plot before. What seed product do you prefer and why? And is there any other advice you have?Winke Responds:Larry, For your situation, I would plant 1/2 acre to clover and the remainder to a brassica blend such as Frigid Forage's Big N Beasty. That gives you early season and mid-season attraction with the clover and late season attraction with the brassicas. If you don't want to mess with so much planting, I would just plant 1/2 of clover this year and save the rest of the plot for next year after you get your feet wet in the food plot game. Good luck.
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Kevin from NY asks:Bill, I see you are working with Frigid Forage and I was wondering what your experience has been like to date with their products? I live up north and it seems like these seeds are talored to my environment. I am particularly interested in the brassicas if you can tell me how they performed that would be great. Love the show it gets me through a long winter.Winke Responds:Kevin, They did very well for most of the guys on the pro staff. We had so much rain here that it was hard to gauge the success of any summer planting. However, in areas with normal rainfall amounts, the product did very well. You need to follow the directions on the bag, don't cut corners, and you will do well. I planted clover last spring and that did very well here. I hope to have a year upcoming when the weather permits a proper test of the Big N Beasty. As stated, the guys in WI and MI did well with it, so I am sure it will work there. Good luck.
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Dalton from KS asks:Hey, Great buck and a cool story, congrats. I have another question for u though. Sorry and thanks for being patient with me. I have used the advice you have given me and I had a great encounter with a buck tonight that would score in the 180 minimum. Today was the first day of rifle season down here in Kansas and he came at 55 yards while I was hunting on the ground but he was in a narly brush thicket and wouldn't present an ethical shot. The question is do you think that clover planted in a 50 yard circle on the verge of some thick bedding area would keep the deer using this trail more often even if it is already being hammered? Will deer get acustomed to food they arn't used to eating? We had a 80 acre clover field but neither my neighbor nor i ever saw a deer in it but we always saw them in the corn. ThanksWinke Responds:Dalton, Anytime you can place a small clover plot close to a bedding area you should do it. It will become a great staging area and community area for the deer during both the morning and evening. I have a few of these and they are all awesome hunting spots. All you need is a half-acre to pull them in for a good bow shot. Good luck.
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Dalton from KS asks:Hey love the show!! Just wondering if there waw any type of seed for a food plot that i can just toss in the grass and it will grow so that i don't have to prepare the soil. I would like to do a food plot like this in some heavy timber, but don't have a way to get in with the tractors. ThanksWinke Responds:Dalton, The competition will prevent the seed from growing. You need to at least kill the grass with RoundUp first, wait about two weeks and rake it out of the way so the seed can get to the ground. It might be a good project for next spring. Without killing the competition, it is not worth the effort. I suggest clover. Good luck.
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marc from MI asks:Bill, I have permission to hunt 40 acres and is nestled in a large block of woods about 1 to 1 and half miles square surrounded by farmland and small woodlots. Have killed 5 does here the past 2yrs but no bucks though I've seen two bucks-approx a 140 10pt last year and 120-130 tall tined 8pt this year. This piece beds a lot of deer. But is mostly maple and mature pine with a lot of low ground willow and downfall. There aren't natural openings and can't cut. What can be planted vegetation wise to get more food on this piece?Winke Responds:Marc, Without being able to open up the canopy, you are very limited. I would say to clear any small openings that exist and plant to clover. Clover will tolerate a bit less sunlight than some other plantings and survives deer pressure well in small plots. That would be my suggestion. Good luck.
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Cody from WI asks:hey bill, sorry for asking you all these questions, but my question is, what brand of food plot wildlife feed do you prefer, and what blend do you suggest i use, or is the best?Winke Responds:Cody, Frigid Forage sponsors the show this year and they have two blends you might like. I have tried them both and they work very well. The first is the clover blend. The second is the Big N Beasty brassica blend. The clover is good for spring, summer and fall while the brassicas are good for late fall and winter. I also plant a fair amount of corn and soybeans. Soybeans are the more economical of the two. Good luck.
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Carter from NC asks:Is November to late to plant a food plot.Winke Responds:Carter, I am not sure if it is or not down in your area, but I am going to assume that it is. It is probably a decent time to plant a clover plot that will bear clover next year, but for something to produce forage this year, I am guessing it is too late.
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Ryan from LA asks:Bill, My hunting partner and I recently aquired 120 acres of timber, CRP, and pine plantation surrounded by corn and soybean fields. We are thinking of hiring one of the local farmers to plant about five acres(broken into three sections) in a mix of corn and soybeans. What do you think a good ball park price/acre would be to have this planted?Winke Responds:Ryan, If they supply everything including the seed, spray and fertilizer you will end up with about $200 to $250 per acre in the corn and about $100 to $125 per acre in the beans - roughly. If you can find free seed, you can reduce the cost a bit. They may charge a bit more just because the plots are small and spread out making their time less efficient. Good luck.
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Bryant from MN asks:Bill, for the last two years ive been trying to develop a small food plot about an acre in size around a pond in the middle of a 40 acre wooded lot. The main problem that i have been having is that the grass and weeds are growing back in before the clover and brasicas take. How can i control or kill off the grass without hurting the soil for seeding?Winke Responds:Bryant, Check with the local ag coop, but I believe Select or Select Plus will kill the grasses and not the broadleaf plants (clover and brassicas). That is what I have done successfully a few times. Good luck.
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Dalton from KS asks:What type of Frigid Forage food plot seed that would work in or around trees. Will it grow next to black walnuts? I have a cool spot that i would think it would hold a lot of deer. Will coyotes run the deer off? If I wipe out the coyotes, will the deer come back next year? Thanks and I love the show. Haven't missed one yet!! :)Winke Responds:Dalton, I am not sure on the walnuts, they have a toxicity in their husks that might affect the growth. I would call Frigid Forage and ask. I like the Big and Beasty and Clover blends for areas with some shading. Those plants will do well even if they don't have 100 sunlight each day. You need to wipe out the coyotes and yes the deer will come back.
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Jacob from MO asks:Bill, I purchased a 5 pound bag of biologic's hot spot mix which is a no till mix. says to just rake leaves out of the way and broadcast then go over with fertilizer. is it too late to plant this now? i think its a mixture of peas, buckwheat, and wheat. im going to put it in a little clearing in the timber. they recommened 10-10-10 fertilizer but i couldnt get it anywhere in town so i had to go with 12-12-12 will that hurt anything? thanksWinke Responds:Jacob, It depends on the fall we have. Most years, this is probably too late, but if we have warm fall it might still work out OK. Ideally, you would get that planted about Sept 1, at the latest. Good luck. Triple 13 is fine.
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Josh from NC asks:I have a particular farm I hunt where the only crops on it are hay during the spring and summer and then Winter Wheat in Fall and Winter. It is around 275 AC. with 180-200 ac. cleared land. The deer absolutely love the winter wheat when it comes up but there is just so much of it the deer come out from every where. I can't really establish patterns. I am looking to plant some type of food plot bordering a couple small fields with the wheat. I am not sure what to plant though. The plot would probably be around an acre or so. I want something to maybe draw them in to a certain part of the farm to go with the winter wheat. I am not sure if I need clover or brassicas or some sort. Any suggestions would be appreciated.Winke Responds:Josh, Clover is one good option. However, if I had all the options, I might like to see soybeans planted about a month late and fenced to keep the deer out of them until just before hunting season. There are ways to do that with electric fence ribbon that is not too expensive, but generally you need to be diligent to keep the fence from going down or grounding. You need a double fence (two fences actually). There are a few different philosophies on this. The outside one should be two strands of ribbon, 1 1/2 feet and 3 feet off the ground. The second fence is one ribbon about 3 1/2 feet off the ground and parallel about three feet deeper into the field. Deer don't like to jump such an arrangement. That will protect your beans long enough for them to really get established and I think that plot would compete very well with the winter wheat as a fall/winter attractor. It is not too expensive to put the fencing up and you can easily remove it for the season and roll it back out in the summer. Good luck.
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Caleb from MO asks:I deer hunt in the rocky hills of Southeast Missouri, what do you suggest I plant in my 1/2 acre food plots?Winke Responds:Caleb, I would mix them between clover and brassicas like turnips and dwarf Essex rape. Dr. Grant Woods has done a good job figuring out how to grow food plots in that stuff and he swears by forage soybeans and a product called Antler Dirt. It is basically poultry litter. If you have access to some poultry litter (a big chicken farm nearby) try to get some of that to spread on your plots every year. Check out Grant's website (growingdeer.tv) for more tips on growing food plots in tough conditions. Good luck.
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Ryan from IA asks:Hey Bill, This is just an at-a-boy for throw and go seed for food plots! I have the 80 acres that we actively hunt that is made up of CRP and strong timber. The surrounding farm land is brought up this year of the corn and bean rotation. Our reoccuring problem is that we cash rent the property for cattle. With that said growing a food plot is next to impossible in able for the deer to have any action on it before the cows demolish it. With this said I picked up a 11,000 Sqft (1/4 acre) bag of throw and go seed mixed of Clover, Ryegrass and Rape brassicca that will provide terrific late season action once the frost hits and the perimeter crop is harvested. I worked this seed into the hills of a thick row of timber that is too tight for cattle to manuver and after two weeks I have terrific clover and ryegrass coming up, obviously the rape is there but we wont reap the benefits until the frost hits but the does are LOVING this stuff!! With that said I strongly recommend to all readingWinke Responds:Ryan, I appreciate it. I will pass it along in the form of a question on here. I have not tried the stuff, but it sounds like a good solution to a tough situation. Good luck this fall.
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Clint from AR asks:I cant wait for this season of Midwest Whitetail. The shows so far this year have been great. I was wandering what your is your opinion on winter peas, winter wheat, and winter oats. Arkansas winters are mild and I am hoping they provide forage for the deer all winter. I have planted all three this year along with turnips and rape. Keep up the great work and I cant wait to see how many hit list bucks go down.Winke Responds:Clint, I appreciate your support for the shows. Thanks. I think you have a good mix there. You should have something green and attractive in that plot until the end of the winter. I can't think of anything else to add to the mix. When planting blends like this, it is important to cut back on all the ingredients so each has a chance to get the needed moisture, nutrients and sunlight. A typical mistake is to plant such blends too thiick and then nothing grows very well. Don't forget to fertilize. All of those plants do best with plenty of fertilizer.
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steve from IA asks:i planted barkant and purple top turnips on july 4th weekend and now they are dieing out. any ideas why? in same plots with chicory and clover and they are the only ones affected.Winke Responds:Steve, I had a problem with this last year. I am not sure why. Most guys in my area had turnips fail around the end of August. We had a lot of rain and I attributed it to too much moisture. They came out of the ground fast, looked great for a few weeks and then shriveled away to nothing - lots of fertilizer too. I still think it was too much rain. However, I didn't plant straight turnips this year. I went with the Frigid Forage blend called Big N Beasty. It is a good brassica blend that seems to be doing very well so far this year. Disclaimer: Frigid Forage is one of our new sponsors, but I do like what I have seen so far.
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Brett from OK asks:Dear bill, I have 12 acres of tilled unplanted ground that needs to be occupied. I already have 10 acres of half alfalfa half turnips, and was wondering if u had any ideas of what I might be able to plant before this fall? Thanks for all the hard work and dedication that you and everyone else put into the show and website.Winke Responds:Brett, You might try some oats. Deer really like that stuff and it is affordable to plant - mix in a little winter wheat too. Also, a bit of dwarf Essex rape in the corners of the plot will also be good. Again, deer eat it readily and it is affordable.
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Troy from MO asks:Do you plant turnips and if so when do you plant them and what kind do you plant?Winke Responds:Troy, I planted them last year. The mix was a combo of Dwarf Essex Rape, Barkant Turnips and Purple Top Turnips. It did OK, but was kind of disappointing. However, I think the excessive rainfall we had last fall was the downfall. I will be planting Frigid Forage's Big & Beasty brassica blend this year instead. They are a new sponsor and I am looking forward to trying this product. I planted their clover this spring and it did very well! So I have high hopes for the B & B.
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Drew from MO asks:hi this year i put in a small 1/4 acre in the center of my woods. i cleared some trees out so it gets about 6-8 hrs of sun light. i tried some throw and grow this spring but all that came up was grass and the deer didnt touch it. i was wondering if you have some tips about what to do. i would like to put some clover in it and maybe some turnips later this summer. thanks for your help!Winke Responds:Drew, I would spray with Roundup in mid-to-late July. Then till it up in early August and plant to a brassica blend or straight turnips as you suggest. During the winter, go in and broadcast clover seed on the plot (called frost seeding). Be sure to fertilize with a blend suitable for clover. Your local farm co-op can help you determine the right mix and sell it to you. That will get you ready for next year. 1/4 acre in the timber is pretty small for getting sunlight. I might be tempted to lay a few of the taller bordering trees down to increase the amount of sunlight. Good luck.
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Dalton from KS asks:Hey, I want to plant a food plot here in Kansas. What do you think is the best food source that will grow well in my region. I live about an hour south of Kansas City. What has worked best for you? Up the road from my house is about a 60 acres of clover so I want something different so the deer will be attracted to the food plot I'm planting. When would you suggest planting it? Now or later in the season? Thanks, DaltonWinke Responds:Dalton, I think given your situation, you should probably try a brassica blend. You can buy some of the seeds from an online seed merchant. One of our new sponsors is Frigid Forage who makes a very good brassica blend called "Big and Beasty". You plant this product in late summer, ideally just before a rain. Prepare the soil as you would for clover (kill the weeds, till) and be sure to fertilize per the bag instructions. Any food plot does best if you fertilize. The deer may take some time to get used to eating this stuff. It is not something they naturally encounter, but once they get a taste for it, they will definitely hit it hard. Another option is something simple like winter wheat. You could try to plant soybeans yet, however, it is getting late in the game for that. I would stick with late summer plantings at this point, just to be on the safe side.
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jackson from AL asks:Dear Bill, I love the show and appriciate everything that you are doing. I was wondering if you could tell me where i could order barcant and pruple top turnips for a reasonable low price?Winke Responds:Jackson, Yes, you can. We use a blend from our food plot sponsor (Frigid Forage) called Big and Beasty, but you can make your own blends by contacting companies on the web that sell direct. Do a search under "turnip seed", for example, for a few options. Good luck.
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Craig from ME asks:Bill, I was wondering what you would think the best food plot would be for a double crop system? I have corn and beans all around me and would like to offer something different to attract and hold deer. Last year I planted Biologic Maximum in the fall and had great results. I need to figure out what to plant in the spring to compliment that fall crop. Any advise would be helpful. Love the website. CraigWinke Responds:Craig, I would go with beans and then simply drill the brassicas into the outside rows (or the entire field) after the deer eat down those areas in the summer. If they haven't eaten enough of the beans to create openings for the sunlight, the brassicas won't grow so don't plant them. That is what I do each year in my bean plots and it works great. In fact, I just broadcast my brassicas into the beans without drilling them just before a good late August rain and it works out very well. Some guys do the same with winter wheat. That also works well. Beans, by themselves, are a good "double crop" as they feed deer in the summer and also during the fall and winter. However, in areas where the deer thin them out, it makes sense to drill in other crops. I understand that you can drill right into the thin areas of late August beans and not harm them too much. The pods still keep filling. Your other good option is to break up your plot and plant two separate sections, one a summer plot with clover and the other a winter plot with brassicas and then rotate them every two years.
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Roland from AR asks:I'm planting 4 acres of soybeans. Tried this before but deer mowed them down before they could get a good start. What's the best way to keep the deer out? I'm going to try a propane cannon, thinking this may work in a small plot like this. Your ideas are greatly appreciated.Winke Responds:Roland, Electric fence is about your best hope. I have a couple of neighbors that do this. They run two ribbons on the outside row (one at two feet and one at three to four feet) and then about three feet inside that, they run another line of posts with a single ribbon also about three to four feet off the ground. Apparently, deer don't like to jump if they have to clear more than one obstacle so they don't go over it. The idea is to put small metal cups in the wires (I think you can buy them with the fencing) and fill them with either peanut butter or a cotton swap covered in apple cider. Get the deer to stick out its tongue to test the offering and they get zapped, learning to avoid the fence. It works pretty well if you are diligent to keep the weeds from grounding it out and to quickly repainr any places where the deer knock the wire down. Run it with a solar panel and you don't need to worry about batteries. The other option is to use two tiers of woven wire fencing to a height of seven feet mounted on tall wooden posts. That solution is much more expensive. Good luck.
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ian from WI asks:Hey bill. I thought I’d ask you: do you think a farmer would sell part of a crop field to leave the crops standing? The farm I hunt is just a big crop field and I the hunt line fences on both sides. I have been looking at the whole food plot stuff but its expensive if u want to do it right. Last fall I tried one of the throw and grow plots and all it was grass seed that the deer didn’t touch. If so how much should I ask for by each stand to be left unpicked and any price range for them. Last year the field was wheat and I could plant my own this year it will be either soybeans or corn… hopefully.Winke Responds:Ian, It is going to be expensive either way. If you ask the farmer to leave it standing he is going to estimate his harvest, multiply it by the cost of the commodity (corn or beans) and tell you that price. That could easily be about $300 to $400 per acre depending on the quality of the soil. Another idea is to rent the land the farmer for cash rent prices and then hire the farmer to plant your part on a custom rate. Some might do that and it will cost about $200 per acre depending on the price of cash rent. Either way it is going to get expensive. If he is willing to leave some for you, consider about 1/2 acre near each stand, minimum. Good luck.
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James from IA asks:This might sound like a dumb question but are food plots legal in Iowa? If you look in the Reg book it states that they arent legal. Also if they are legal is it legal to put up a stand over one?Winke Responds:James, It is legal. I read those regs too and they are a bit vague. I called the game warden and he says that as long as you plant it and don't dump it out, it is not considered baiting.
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josh from PA asks:Hi Bill, We feed our deer corn at the beginning of winter after the hunting season is over. What is your stance on feeding deer corn during the winter? I have been told that this will disturb their digestive system and could kill them. There are numerous farms in our area that have acres of corn that the deer feed on during the fall, and we have been doing this for a decade with no visible effect on the deer herd. What do you do for the deer in your area during the winter?Winke Responds:Josh, I believe those recommendations refer to going into a deer yard or someplace where the deer have no options and then feeding them a single food source. They need variety in thier diets in order to foster the needed bacteria to digest foods. If it is something they are not used to eating, they will need to transition into the new food source more slowly. In PA where you are hunting, with other local ag crops, they are used to eating and digesting corn. There should be no problems if you are feeding them regularly.
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Jason from KY asks:First off I would like to say great show! I love watching each week! Anyway I've been hunting for around 20 years now and I've finally got a lease on a wonderful surburan honey hole. Approx. 43 acres mostly wooded and falls down a ridge into a large creek bottom. I do have permission to turn one of two old horse pasture into a deer food plot. The size of the plot would be roughly 1 acre and the landowner would like it be as low liying to the ground as possible. I hunted this land last year at it is covered up in does and small bucks. I have seen 12 to 17 deer at nightfall eating the timothy and rapeseed in the old pasture many(hungry deer)evenings.My first slctn for the plot was Antler King Trophy Clover Mix with Chicory, contains four clover seed types and one chicory. For additional food content I thought of either adding brassicas or alfalfa to the clover and chicory mix.The plot sight is on a slght hill.Drains well. Do provide corn and minerals stations.advice?Winke Responds:Jason, I would skip the alalfa and stick with the blend. I am so-so on chicory here in the Midwest. It grows wild on the road shoulders. I have never seen deer eating it there nor have I ever seen them eat it in my food plots. Unless someone can convinve me otherwise, I am not going to plant chicory again. I agree with the clovers, however. That is a good idea. So is shooting a bunch of does! Mineral plots are also a good idea. Scott Prucha wrote a quest blog for me last summer on the best mixes for minerals. You may want to check that out. You should be able to get by with one or two mineral sites. I don't think I would feed corn on the place, however. Getting those food plots going is a much better idea. Good luck.
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michael from MI asks:hi i just wanted to ask you 3 questions,what do deer love to eat? where do deer usually go in the day time and night time? and what places can i find some good deer honestly, in michigan.Winke Responds:Michael, Oooo, answering those three questions well is enough to fill a book. They will mostly eat browse (buds, leaves, twigs, fresh shoots, etc.), agricultural crops (soybeans, clover, alfalfa, corn). Categorizing their favorite browse can take a long time and is really dependent on what is available right around there. They will eat many things. During the day they are usually in their bedding areas - most commonly places where they aren't often disturbed. Often these are thick areas or isolated cover, sometimes they are on slight ridges where they can see their surroundings. During the night, they are either in feeding areas (mostly ag fields) or near them. They will bed at night - usually in or near the feeding areas. They don't feed all the time. Finding good deer hunting in Michigan is a very competitive event. The best places to look are on land owned by family, friends, friends of friends, friends of family, etc. You get the picture. Find someone you know who knows someone with deer on their land. Public land is just too competitive if you can avoid it. Even the larger national forests are alive with hunters. If you can bowhunt, you can sometimes find places to hunt that you wouldn't be able to access with a gun. Good luck.
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Floyd from IN asks:The farm I hunt is full of row crop and so is the whole area around us. Is it even worth while to plant food plots? I have trouble holding deer on the property but they have plenty of food and we already have 2 alfalfa fields. I don't usually see good bucks until the rut and if I don't get a shot at them I rarely see them a second time. I have some good security cover in the form of large wet spots that have cattails 6' high. What is your best advise to draw and hold deer in central Indiana? 150 acres total only 40 of which is wooded.Winke Responds:Floyd, It definitely is to your advantage to have food plots. As the crops aroung you get harvested, the deer will increasingly key on standing crops that are still available. This is especially true during a tough winter like this one. The alfalfa serves as a great summer attractor and will hold some deer through mid-November. Then, without a grain crop to pull and hold them during the rest of the season, you are likely to lose some of the deer - or at least not attract any new ones. I personally like grains (corn and beans) for my late fall plots. However, turnips and brassica blends are also very good. Winter hardy oats can also be very attractive in early to mid fall.
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mike from GA asks:Hi Mr. Winke, I don't have any hunting property in Georgia, but i have an acre that sits next to approx 40 acres of woods. I am thinking of planting 1/4 acre food plot to attract some deer. What would you suggest. I am use too hunting Illinois were corn a soy bean is a given. Thanks a lot. P.S. I really enjoy your show. It reminds me every day what i miss about the mid westWinke Responds:Mike, For sure on a small plot like that, I would go with clover. It can handle reasonable deer pressure and still produce and is attractive well into the fall.
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John from FL asks:Hey Bill, I was wondering what do I need to plant in spring/summer for the deer heard. I hunt middle Ga where the soil is great to grow anything. So just looking for the right direction to start. Thanks for the advice. JohnWinke Responds:John, I would plant a combination of summer/fall and winter foods. Soybeans are hard to beat. Deer feed on them during the summer and then eat the pods in the fall and winter. I would put 50% into soybeans. A very good choice. Also, clover is good for about 20 to 25% of your plot acres. Finally, a combination of green forage is also good, so that would be winter wheat and brassica mixes but those you don't have to plant until late summer. The QDMA offers a good buck on techniques for planting all kinds of food plot species. You can buy it from their website. It is called "Quality Food Plots".
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Eric from PA asks:hey Bill i hunt a farm here in central PA.Its mostly corn fields soy beans and alfalfa with oak ridges.I don,t have access to farm equipment so i cant do any food plots or anything like that.I was wondering if there is other more simple ways i can improve my hunting area and the deer that are on it? Thanks. love the show keep it up!Winke Responds:Eric, You can create small plots using turnips and brassica blends in any small open area. I have a friend who goes into these areas with backpack sprayer with RoundUp and then follows up a couple weeks later with an actual garden tiller and works the ground before planting the brassics in late July. It works pretty well. You can do a tiny area of just 1/4 acre and attract some worthwhile deer activity. Call a local agronimist (most USDA offices can recommend one) or talk to the local coop about soil samples and be sure to follow the suggestions for lime and fertilizer. Good luck.
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Mike from IN asks:Bill- Thanks for the response from my previous question in regards to planting in a Comed right-away, I really appreciate it. If you don't mind, I have a few follow up questions as I am really new to this whole food plot architecture deal. My main concern is that this plot is going to get hammered hard as like mentioned above this right away butts up to a sanctuary timber/slough that is an excellent bedding area/habitat that is loaded with big deer and the other direction from me on the other side is also this sanctuary, so I am basically hunting a couple acre piece in between roughly 2-3K acres of sanctuary with the closest ag fields being a mile or two away. This right away is very long and I would like them to key in on my area, so I was thinking I should keep it small by my location??, and only planting half the width to keep them in bow range. I'm worried beans might get wiped out so I was thinking of a clover/brassica mix now or would you still stick with beans or combo?Winke Responds:Miike, In my experience, you usually get away with a new food plot for one year before the deer find it and and then it will likely get hammered much harder after the deer come to realize they can find food in that area. So, you do have a chance of getting the beans by them well enough to get decent production for late season, but after the first year, you will probably never get away with it again. So I would probably plant the RoundUp Ready beans the first year to get the weeds killed good. If the deer hammer them during the summer, you can then till it up and plant 1/2 turnips and half clover and oats in late summer. If they don't hammer them, you have a nice bean plot to hunt over in the fall and winter. I would plant the entire width. You are going to need as much acreage as you can get. Let them feed out of the other side toward you. They generally end up in the middle anyway, so I would plant the entire thing. Finally, plant only what is front of your hunting area. You want to focus the deer into the area you can hunt. Good luck.
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Mike from IN asks:Bill- First off, I would like to say congrats on a great thing you have started here, it is an awesome show being the semi-live format that it is. My question is in regards to food plots. I hunt several farms and pieces of property in Illinois and Indiana, but have never gotten into planting my own food plots. All the places I have are private where I have permission from the owner or farmer and they are planted in corn/beans and that has always been great for our success. I do have a spot though that is already good that butts up to a comed right-away clearing. I spoke to Comed in regards to planting something in the right away and they actually like the idea and wish more people would do it which surprised me. This would be the only food plot within a mile as it is a 1000 acre sanctuary cover on the other side. What would you reccommend to plant in this situation. I was thinking of just planting some narrow strips of soybeans or some type of biologic or clover or both?Winke Responds:Mike, If the plot is big enough, your strategy is a good one. I would want at least three acres of beans to assure they won't get wiped out too quickly. The clover is good for most of the fall and the brassicas are best for later in the season. Actually, if you can plant all three, you would really have all the seasons covered. If not, consider beans and brassicas and then if the deer get to hitting it too hard after the first year (which they probably will) consider switching to brassicas and clover and then rotating the crop acres every other year. Oats can also be very good, and worth trying if you find the deer numbers are wiping out your other crops. Sounds like a great setup. Good luck.
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Bruce from MI asks:Hi Bill, You guys do a GREAT job with your show, Question about the soy beans your hunting over. Some guys will sow their beans much later than normal if they intend on leaving them stand as a late season food plot so they are more palatable for the deer. Seeing the large numbers of deer in your beans made me wonder if that is what you do as well ? Hey if you guys need some help in any summer prep work or hunting some of those huge Iowa bucks i have 2 preference points for the great state of Iowa (: Thanks again Bruce Wagenmaker ( Michigan)Winke Responds:Bruce, I want my beans to produce large numbers of actual podded beans for late fall and winter food. You have to plant them early to get that kind of production - just like a real farmer does. If you plant them late you get a forage situation where the deer are eating the actual plant until it frosts off and dries down and then you are left with almost nothing for winter food since the plants didn't have time to produce beans. The forage strategy is fine if your priority is September and early October hunting, but not good if your goal is winter food production. Good luck.
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Drew from MO asks:i have a question about what to plant in a small food plot in the middle of thick woods. its hard to say how much light will get to it in the spring-summer months with full trees. but its about 1/4 + acre of land and just wondering what you think would make it a good little honey hole. love the show. DrewWinke Responds:Drew, I think I would probably try clover the first year and see what happens. The second year, I would probably work up any areas of the plot where the clover is not doing well and plant them to a brassica blend in early August. Brassicas do pretty well in areas with limited daylight. Thanks for your support. Merry Christmas.
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Kade from IA asks:Bill, I love the show. I hunt NE Iowa. Im looking to plant more food plots on the land I hunt. I already have a 1 acre clover plot and incorporated turnup patches. I tried planting standing corn around the clover with switchgrass beside the corn. What do you suggest I also plant to make a grocrey list. Im entertaining the idea of milo. I also had problems with the switchgrass laying down. I want to create a thick bedding area. What do you suggest?Winke Responds:Kade, Milo will help with the bedding cover and the food. You might consider half the planter bins (all on one side) with forage sorghum and half with the standard grain sorghum (sorghum and milo are the same thing). The forage sorghum doesn't produce as much seed, but it grows very tall and when it crumbles (usually on the first snow) it does provide a lot of cover. It may take your deer some time to get a taste for the milo. In some areas they hit it well and in others they need to gain a taste for it. Since there is no milo grown commercially in NE Iowa, I would guess the deer won't likely hit it hard until everything else is gone (not a bad thing). It is a good option to go with what you already have on your list.
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Bill Koepke from AL asks:I hunt a 160 acre farm that will be mostly corn next year, is there anything i can plant in a food plot that will draw the deer out of the corn before dark? thank you and Merry ChristmasWinke Responds:Bill, You need to plant something that no one else has. For example, if there is no alfalfa or clover in your immediate area, go with clover. You might also try oats. I have not tried it, but my friends tell me that deer will walk through most anything to get to oats when it is lush and growing. Plant the oats around late Aug. early Sept. Brassicas work well late in the season. Maybe a food plot that is 1/2 clover and oats mixed, 1/2 brassicas (turnips, dwarf Essex rape, etc.). You can rotate them from the next year and put the oats where the brassicas were and leave the clover for a year or two before tilling under and starting over.
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Raymond from NC asks:Hello Bill I really enjoy the shows and think your doing a great job. What are your favorite things to plant for food plots. In spring and fall. I already have 2 clover plots. ThanksWinke Responds:Raymond, To keep things simple, I try to split the food plots up as 1/3 summer and 2/3 fall and winter foods in the Midwest. Down south you probably need closer to 2/3 summer (clover) and 1/3 (fall/winter) because the growing season is different and your summer foods are also your fall foods (again the clover works well for both). So you need a few ideas for winter attraction. It is hard to beat something green such as winter wheat, oats and rye. Oats is a big favorite of the deer up here. Soybeans might also work, but the challenge is the need to protect them from overgrazing early. If you have a way to do that, they can also be very good for both summer and fall/winter. Brassicas are also a good choice, but mainly in areas where the plant can freeze and become more palatable to the deer. Oats, brassicas, wheat and rye are all late summer plantings so you can even run a secondary crop of clover in with them when you plant and then disc half the plot under each summer and replant, always keeping a fresh crop of clover in the rotation on the other half. Of course, corn works great too for winter attraction, but only if the deer numbers are low enough or the plots large enough that the plants make it through to produce ears.
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Kyle from IL asks:Winke, I have 90acres in east central Illinois. On the 90acre farm I have 5 small food plots(1acre and smaller). In the past I have tried corn and beans, which never produce. I would like to get some perrineal plots going, what do you recommend? thanks for the helpWinke Responds:Kyle, I would keep half for clover and half for turnips or brassica blends. In fact, if you can keep half of each plot for clover and the other half for brassicas, that is even better. Frigid Forage is sponsoring our MN show and they are well-known for their brassica blends. The clover will attract well in the summer and early fall and the brassicas will attract well in the winter. I am seeing the bucks hitting the turnips hard right now (Dec. 17) even though we have beans and corn standing nearby.
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Troy from MO asks:What is the best food plot for northern central missouri? I know deer like some better in the early season and others after the first frost. Thanks for your time.Winke Responds:Troy, It makes sense to break your food plot acres up into two categories: fall/winter foods and spring/summer foods. Deer will still eat the spring/summer foods in the fall but they will shift to other sources at that time too. Here is a good plan for most people: in 1/3 of your food plot acres plant clover (a good reputable blend works best). In 1/3 plant (Sept. 1) annuals such as an oats and rye mix, possibly mix in some dwarf essex rape. Deer really like to hit that during the time from late September through the winter. In the other 1/3 plant corn, sorghum or soybeans, or even plant them in separate strips. Just make sure that you use the correct chemicals for each. I tend to go 2/3 fall/winter food to 1/3 spring/summer foods because the deer here in the Midwest are rarely short on summer foods but are often short on winter foods.
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Cecil from IN asks:What food plots seem the best for early season hunting.I have a plot planted with a brassica blend which I am hoping they will hit latter on in the season.This is the first year I have tried a food plot.What would you recommend in northern Indiana and southern Michigan.A lot of the hunts I have watched have been done over food plots but they never say what it is. Keep up the great work I love the show!Winke Responds:Cecil, A lot of the guys around me are using oats now. They plant it in late August or early September and it is usually really attractive to the deer in early October. Also, the brassica blends are good. We added Frigid Forage as a sponsor for the Minnesota show and they specialize in brassica blends for northern states. Take a look at the most recent MN show and you'll see what they look like. Good luck.
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Steve from MO asks:Hi Bill, I have what would seem to be a great place for a food plot on a creek bottom but deer do not use the clover plot I've planted as heavily as I had anticipated. One thing that concerns me is that there are black walnut trees scattered around the edge of the field. I know that cattle will not graze on grass under walnut trees unless they are starving as the grass tastes badly due to black walnut toxicity. Do you think this black walnut toxicity could also be impacting the palatablity of my clover for the local deer herd? If so, is there another plant you would recommend planting instead? Thanks, SteveWinke Responds:Steve, It may affect those areas right under the trees, but in general, I would say not. The rest of the field is not affected. I don't know if the walnut hulls make the clover less appealing, but it would not affect the entire field. My guess is that something else is at work here - the deer numbers are not as high as you might have thought or there are other food sources nearby that are pulling them. I love clover in such spots so I can't think of anything I would suggest that would be better.
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mike from IL asks:Bill I have a food plot planted between two cedar draws, iv did all the proper soil testing and added what it needed. Anyways on the edges of my food plot i planted soome apple trees, jonithan, red delioius, and some others. The trees have been planted nomore than 3-4 years now. Thier bloooming and growing iv been fertilizing trying to do what i can to get them to maturity as fast as i can. my question to you is i had somebody tell me that cedar trees could kill out my apple trees. Have you ever heard of this and if so what can i do to prevent it, besides trying to move them to another location. Thanks for your help and i enjoy your shows alot.KEEP EM COMMINGWinke Responds:Mike, I planted 40 red and yellow delicious in an opening in a ridge loaded with cedars. Most are still alive, but we had a very hard spring on fruit trees (all trees) because it warmed up, broke dormancy and then got very cold for a long period of weeks. That killed about five of them, but talking with the guy I bought them from, he said that was a very common event this year. Also, the leaves were yellow this summer and he called it rust and said it was too late to do anything about it. I never connected the cedars with the ruts, but maybe I should have and certainly will next year. Here is what I found in a Mississippi State Extension Bulletin that might help: "Most apple varieties grown by Mississippi orchardists are susceptible to cedar-apple rust and are annually attacked by this fungus disease. In seasons when cedar-apple rust is severe, leaves on many apples trees turn a rusty orange color because of the disease and fall from trees. While cedar-apple rust doesn't kill trees, the repeated effects of leaf destruction and defoliation eventually leads to weakened trees and poor apple yields. Weak trees are more susceptible to other problems, such as winter injury, which frequently lead to tree death. The fungus which causes cedar-apple rust overwinters on cedar trees. In fact the overwintering site of this fungus is very conspicuous on cedar trees across the state at this time of year as orange, globular-shaped structures about the size of tennis balls. This stage of cedar-apple rust has been particularly noticeable this spring because of recent periods of rainy weather. These orange balls (technically referred to as "telial horns") are the source of fungus spores which are blown to apples where young leaves become infected during periods of wet weather. As the disease progresses, apple leaves turn the characteristic rusty orange color. What should you do to protect your apple trees from cedar-apple rust? Fungicide a
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Greg from MI asks:We have been managing our property for 3 years. We have about 15 acres of food plots. The food plots really took off this year. We have a blended food plot of clover, brassicas and oats. The oats are about 3ft high and seeding. The clover and brassicas are growing pretty good underneath the oats. The clover is about 12" to 15". We are not sure if we should cut the food plot or just let it be. If we should cut the food plot, what is the latest we should cut? Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you, Greg P.S. I really love the show. I am addicted. I first heard about the site at the begining of August. I watched every episode from last year. All of you are doing a great job.Winke Responds:Greg, Thanks for supporting the show. I wouldn't cut it at this point. You probably got the oats in a little early for optimum attraction for the hunting season. Most times, planting that in early September is ideal or it gets tall and seeds out. However, deer will eat oat heads in the winter, when they dry down so I would just leave it for now. Sounds like a great plot with that tall clover underneath. Next spring it will be amazing. Good luck this fall.
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mark from MN asks:what type of seed would be the best to plant when you have an in woods food polt with not much sunlight. if you have an idea would it work in the fallWinke Responds:Mark, I would probably use a brassica blend of purple top turnips and dwarf essex rape. These plants have big leaves and can get by with less direct sunlight. Clover might also work for a long-term solution, but I wouln't plant it with the brassicas as they will shade out the clover. You can frost seed the clover in Feb or March. Right now is a good time to get your brassicas planted.
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Dustin from MO asks:What type of foods plots do you use?Winke Responds:Dustin, I have a combination. Some of the small isolated fields are turnips for one season and then I frost seed them during the winter and they go to clover for two seasons and then back to turnips, etc. The larger fields are usually corn or beans depending on what crops go into the commercial fields nearby. If the nearest fields are corn, I ask the farmer to plant my food plots in that area to corn, as well. So every year I end up with a mix of beans, corn, turnips and clover. Good luck this year.
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Troy from MO asks:Bill, in the last couple of years i have just tried to get serious about deer hunting. The only problem is that its a little hard since I am only 14. So I need as much help as I can get. But anyway my question is what do you plant in your food plots and what have you had best luck with?Winke Responds:Troy, The least expensive route you can go is to plant turnips this summer (typicaly late July) and then this winter frost seed clover over the same ground. Spread a little P & K (phosphorus and potassium) to help maintain the clover as it starts growing. That reduces both seed cost and equipment time. Then if you keep that plot mowed (usually twice a summer) you can keep it relatively weed free for two years (maybe three) before you will need to start over again by killing it and going back to turnips. I use this strategy on about 1/3 of my food plot acres and plant beans and corn on the rest. Beans aren't real expensive, but corn requires a lot of nitrogen, so that can get pretty spendy. Try the turnips to clover strategy and see how it works for you. Good luck.
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David from IA asks:What are dear more apt to be fond of; white clover, red clover, rye, or another kind of clover, or something else in your opinion?Winke Responds:David, It has been my experience that deer will eat all those forage species that you mention, but the one I plant most often is the white clover. Some call it by its proper name of ladino clover. It is high in protein and deer seem to favor it. Several companies recommend a mix of clovers so that you are not as prone to having a complete die-off in any given year. However, I have had good luck simply planting ladino. You can buy it from a food plot company or from your local grain and feed store. Some of the clovers sold by the food plot companies are hybridized to be very tolerant of grazing and are also more hardy (they last longer) but I have also had good luck just buying ladino from the co-op.
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dustin from AL asks:Is it too late to put out a clove/rye footplot?Winke Responds:It is getting a little bit late for that now. You risk dry weather killing the small plant shortly after it germinates but before it puts down a decent root. I would wait till about Aug. 15 and plant them. They won't be as big for fall, but still will attract deer.
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Ken Fox from OH asks:Hi Bill, I was curious! I have tried a few ATV 25G spot sprayers just to find out they under performed greatly and returned them. The worst of late being the Moultie, (great feeders) my back pack sprayer could do better. I,m using it for creating/managing plots and also tending to the yard and unwanted insects taking residency in my trees. I've thought about getting a gas powered trailor sprayer (something 6 gpm or so)although they are pricey!! Any suggestions, maybe I'm just getting the wrong set up on them (pump output etc..). Thanks. P.S. I'll have to send you my pix of my SW Ohio deer I've taken!!Winke Responds:I spoke with a guy here that has used many different brands and he said the Fimco is the one that has produced the best overall results for him. I look forward to seeing the deer pictures.
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Marc from AL asks:Bill, Do purple top turnips have an allopathic effect on other plants? My turnip plots from last year have been weed free up to planting time when corn was planted into them. No chemicals have been used in the past either. Thanks! Marc GustafsonWinke Responds:Marc, I called the local expert and he said no. They are not allopathic. He said that they are very aggressive competitors and shade everything out which creates less fresh weed seed. He also said that they will strip nutrients from the soil. "If you don't feed them they will find something to eat and they will get every last bit of it." was his quote. So the crop may have taken a toll on the fertility of the soil too. He has planted them in food plots for years and he says for sure they do not put out any toxins. Be sure to fertilize that corn well! Good luck. Bill
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Wes from IN asks:Bill- Absolutely love the show! Can't wait for the 09 season. My question is I only own a 4 acre plot of woods surrounded by several corn and bean fields. I want to do whatever I can to bring in more and more deer. Would you suggest building a very small patch of food source such as clover in the middle of the wood plot or do you have any other suggestions for me to help increase the amount of deer i see throughout the season. Thanks in advance.Winke Responds:Wes, I appreciate the support. That is a tough question. There is only so much you can do with four acres. I would not go into the four acres at all. I would hunt only the edges and if you add a food plot, I would pick something other than what the farmers are planting (presumably beans and corn) and plant a narrow strip along the two prevailing downwind sides. That might be turnips on one side and forage oats on another, for example. Don't try to compete with the farmers when it comes to growing typical ag crops, instead find something different that will attract deer. You are really going to neeed a way to get in and out when you hunt there without alerting deer. Maybe you can bring in a few cedar trees or something like that to sneak behind. Leaving some standing corn to sneak behind would also be good. Otherwise, you may need to arrange for someone to pick you up at the end of legal shooting time so you aren't bumping the deer. If the wood lot belongs to you, consider cutting down some of the junk timber to make it thicker in there. As mentioned, I would leave almost the entire wood lot as a sanctuary or you will have trouble holding deer.
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Andrew from WI asks:Hi Bill! I'm making a small food plot and would also like to make a mineral site should I make them at the same spot? also which is the best type of clover for deer or does it matter? when should I plant? love the show hope you do it next year! Thanks!Winke Responds:We will definitely be producing the show again this season. I would just place them in the same basic area. Minerals work best in places where the deer concentrate so they will find them and use them. I am a big fan of white clover. There are many good brands, but you can also check with your local grain co-op to see if they have any they recommend. Typically you would be planting that right about now. Good luck.
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Dakota from WI asks:I have always wondered how to detemine what food plot mix would be for the best for the majority of the deer in the us. I have gooten many different answers but don't know what one to choose. But my cousin told me if you pound a 1/2 to 1 1/2 pipe in the ground and poor salt down it the deer will go crazy. and i am wondering if you yourself had ever try that.thanks dakotaWinke Responds:I had never tried that, but at certain times of the year they definitely crave salt. It isn't all that good for them though. Not sure if it is bad for them, but not as good as minerals. Usually, they start to lose interest in salt and minerals by late summer and early fall. I would probably go a different route from salt. A balanced deer mineral would be better, for sure. I don't know if you can hunt over it though. Good luck.
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marc from MI asks:Bill, My wife and I met you at the Grand Rapids Huntin' Expo. My dilemma is around keeping deer on a farm I hunt after a very difficult 2008 season. The farm I hunt is a 120 acres(70/30 tillable/wooded). Have been hunting this parcel for 6 seasons and have seen some really good bucks-including a 150 class 10pt the first season.The tillable acreage is leased to another farmer. So some years I have corn, some years pickles and one year nothing at all.To the east&west its oak, maple and pine mix -pretty open. To the south is several hundred acres of clear cut that is about 7-8 years old coming up aspen very little oak. The property itself offers plenty of thick cover & bedding but offers nothing else when it comes to browse or mast. We were swamped with rain during the rut(bedding was underwater) and the deer vacated the property. This also occurs during the late season when the leftovers are gone. How do I best create food plots within the woods to help keep the dWinke Responds:Marc, Thanks for your support. To do a really good job of holding deer there, you are likely going to need at least two acres so it isn't all eaten in the summer. Also what you plant is important. I would split it between turnips and clover. Both will do fine in areas without full all-day sunlight. The first year the deer may not respond to turnips if they not seen them before, but by the second year they start hitting them hard. They particularly like them during the late season so it works well for the late draw and clover works well for the early draw. Every two years I would rotate them to keep the clover fresh (it tends to grass up). Also, you can't keep planting turnips in the same spots for too long or it will stop producing. You might be able to get away with a long strip around the edges of the timber or else you are going to have to make small clearings (no smaller than 1/2 acre) in the timber where you can plant the plots. If you don't own the piece be sure to talk to the landowner, of course. If you do own it, maybe consider keeping back a couple acres from the farmer when you do the cash rent agreement and make four half acre plots along the edge of the timber. I hope that helps. Bill
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Aaron from MN asks:Hello Bill - I have been a loyal reader of yours for quite some time and greatly appreciate your articles. I really like your articles where you show your stand locations and then explain why you picked them. I have a quick question for you. Have you ever planted any of the forage soybeans in your food plots? I am interested in possibly trying them since they have more tonage and will last longer into the hunting season than regular beans. I have not called any of the dealers just thought I would see if you had any first hand experience with them. I saw them mentioned on the QDMA tv show the other night and it got me thinking about it. I hunt primarily in MN so I am not sure if that will restrict me from planting them. Just looking for your opinion.Winke Responds:Aaron, I have not planted them but have heard about them. My main focus for soybeans is fall/winter food so I will stick with the varieties best adapted to bean yield. I would rather use clover for summer protein. Sure, they will eat my beans in the summer too, but that is not my main goal. I'm sorry I don't know more about them. You might be able to learn something searching on Google. Thanks for your support. Much appreciated.
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jacob from KY asks:bill i am 16 and i live in mt. sterling ky, i watch your show every week its great. i was wondering what do u think would be the best crop to set on a food plot we already tried clover and and it worked ok and we feed corn but most of the time we only see little bucks and the same does. what do you think we should plant in our food plot please help me thanks bill. i wrote u a question yesterday thanks for the help jacob.Winke Responds:Jacob, I would probably stick with clover for at least part of your food plots because it is attractive for deer in the summer and early fall. Late fall and winter they like corn, but if you are going to continue feeding it, you probably don't need it in your food plots. One thing you might try on a part of your plot acres is turnips (purple top variety) mixed with oats. It attracts deer pretty well. Plant it in late July and it will produe a lot of forage by early October. Also, not very expensive compared to some mixes. Good luck. Bill
